Classic Dual Row IMS Retrofit Instructions — LN Engineering / PAGE 2
LN Engineering Retrofit Kit Instructions - Rev 20 Sept 14. · WE DO NOT PROVIDE SUPPORT FOR INSTALLATIONS! IF PURCHASED THROUGH A D
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LN Engineering Retrofit Kit Instructions - Rev 20 Sept 14.
WE DO NOT PROVIDE SUPPORT FOR INSTALLATIONS! IF PURCHASED THROUGH A DEALER
OR RESELLER, CONTACT SOURCE FIRST. PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION RECOMMENDED AND
REQUIRED for limited \HDU OLPLWHG warranty. See enclosed warranty form for details.
Dual row retrofit kit for dual row only IMS's & classic single row or single row pro kit for single row only!
Use PST2, PIWIS, or equivalent tester to read live DME values for camshaft timing. If there is more than 7 degrees of
deviation, do not proceed with retrofit procedure.
Prior to starting this repair, drain oil, remove filter and oil pan and inspect for debris. If any foreign object debris is
present IMS Retrofit procedure should not be carried out. NOT QUALIFYING A JOB PROPERLY VOIDS ANY WARRANTY
Put engine at TDC, and lock out the pulley so the engine cannot turn over with lock pin.
Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing
chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel.
Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you
have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the
bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner and verify or
correct camshaft timing.
Remove hub flange. You should not have to apply excess force to remove the flange!
If the bearing is has started to fail or is failed, STOP. You should not proceed further. Call LN Engineering.
If center stud/bearing support is broken, use LN Engineering “Easy Out” Tool.
If it is a single row bearing, remove the snap ring. Retain original snap ring on single row bearing as you will re-use
it. Otherwise, for dual row bearings, proceed as the retaining wire-loc is internal and will collapse as you pull on it.
Thread hex bar adapter onto existing bearing support / center stud (already attached to bearing puller, sold separately).
Tool kit includes 2 hex bar adapters – the one with the notches on circumference of hex is for pulling LN bearings.
Adjust nut until sleeve of bearing puller is resting on the face of the intermediate shaft (around bearing housing bore)
and lubricate puller before extracting bearing. When bearing has been extracted, the bearing and puller will come away from
the engine as a single unit and clean out IMS tube.
Remove nut from new bearing support (already pressed into new bearing in center race) and slide the aluminum bearing
driver/installation tool over the stud, counter-bored side facing outside of engine. Leave spare 1.5 x 10mm o-ring at base of
center stud.
Before installing the new bearing, make note if the old bearing has signs of movement on the outer race. If yes, measure
the housing to ensure there is no ovality. Consider using a very small amount of Loctite Bearing Mount on the outside diameter
of to ensure a good fit for the new bearing so the outer race cannot rotate. Loose fit can lead to premature bearing failure.
Place bearing and driver in freezer. When cold, holding the installation tool, use a Snap-On dead blow (red, plasticized
hammer) and drive new bearing into place, ensuring that you have first pushed the intermediate shaft so the other end is resting
fully on the oil pump console. USE OF FAULTLESS IMS TOOL HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR BEARING INSTALL.
If bearing goes in crooked or the new has to be pulled out, do not re-use bearing. It must be replaced.
Install spiro-loc on dual row or snap-ring on single row bearing (single row pro uses an internal wire lock)
You are now ready to install the new hub flange. Inspect seal for damage as well as bore in the block for any
imperfections that might cause the new seal or flange to leak. Take care not to damage o-ring located in new hub flange,
using an o-ring lubricant on seal to facilitate easy installation. Once new flange is started, use three (3) M6X25 bolts, tightening
in a star pattern slowly to draw in the new hub flange in.
Once home, remove M6X25 bolts and replace with new micro-encapsulated bolts. Use flange sealant on bottom of head
of the bolt. Torque specs 7.5 ft/lb (10 Nm).
The center bearing support 12 point nut can be installed and torqued to the factory spec (currently 7.5 ft/lb). Use flange
sealant (Loctite 574 or Curil T) on bottom of head of the bolt and use wicking (green) Loctite on the exposed threads of the
center bearing support/stud and 12 point nut. If the small o-ring is damaged or leaks, the use of flange and thread sealants
should prevent a leak.
Reinstall chain tensioners with new sealing rings and torque to the factory spec of 59 ft/lb.
Install new cam plugs in cylinder head valve covers.
Replace accessible rear case perimeter bolts with new factory micro-encapsulated bolts.
Replace rear main seal with updated seal.
Engine timing should be verified after installation and re-timed if cam timing slips. If timing has changed from before
to after doing the procedure or excessive deviation exists, re-time cams per factory procedure.
Use 5w40 or appropriate viscosity synthetic motor oil recommended - Joe Gibbs DT40, BR40, HR40, OR XP9 EVERY
6 MONTH/5,000 MI – STREET ONLY. RE-USING OLD OIL OR NOT OBSERVING PROPER INTERVALS VOIDS
WARRANTY.
NON-RECEIPT OF ORIGINAL BEARING AND WARRANTY FORM VOIDS WARRANTY
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
