Step 5: Spread the Pads · Before installing new pads, the pistons in the caliper (you can't

Step 5: Spread the Pads Before installing new pads, the pistons in the caliper (you can't see 'em yet) need to be pushed all the way back until they're flush with the caliper housing (the red part) - otherwise there won't be enough clearance to get the anti-rattle clips out, nor will there be enough to get the new pads in. My method is unorthodox, but it works, and I've used it safely on many cars. I place the water pump pliers between the "ears" of the pads, trying to get as much surface of the pliers on each as possible. Then I pull the handles apart. This takes a constant strong pressure, because in order for the pistons to retract they have to force brake fluid back up to the reservoir through a small passage - be patient - maintain pressure until they stop moving. Note that if your pads are way down, and you've added brake fluid, by the time you do this on all four corners you may force enough fluid back up into the reservoir for it to overflow. Keep an eye on the fluid and make sure this doesn't happen. I recommend in Step 12 below that you pump the pedal back up after every wheel. If you need to, draw some fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster. Do not re-use this fluid, and do not spill any on your paint. The brake system remains "closed" - as long as there is fluid in the reservoir, we have only forced fluid from the pistons back up there - we have not introduced any air. For this reason, you do NOT need to bleed your brakes. Step 6: Separate Anti-Rattle Clips From Pads Because I haven't yet needed to replace the anti-rattle clips I don't know for sure, but it looks like they come with some sort of peel-the-backing-off sticky stuff to adhere the clip to the