9 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHdoes anyone know? OHMS reading
Reported or suspected cause
air oil separator
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
I have a couple of these in my basement, If I get time I'll check the ohm's for you, but from your fault codes that is not your problem,(and the fact that it is mechanically functioning).
Leading evidence: 'air oil separator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'air oil separator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ohm's' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I think it has got to be a vacuum leak as I changed the MAF for a new Bosche same part number about 2 months back.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I have a couple of these in my basement, If I get time I'll check the ohm's for you, but from your fault codes that is not your problem,(and the fact that it is mechanically functioning).
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
It does rattle a little when shaken VERY hard, but it also needs cleaning so would probably rattle more after cleaning.
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Check ohm's
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
I have a couple of these in my basement, If I get time I'll check the ohm's for you, but from your fault codes that is not your problem,(and the fact that it is mechanically functioning).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T024951Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I am debating on sending off for an Idle Air Control Valve in an effort to solve 2 fault codes. P1124 and P1126. I am not sure if there is anything wrong with the one I have. With the valve off the car I have these readings in ohms. The valve has 3 pins. With my meter set on the 200 ohms I have these readings.
Between pins 1 and 2 I have 16.8
Between pins 1 and 3 I have 35.5
Between pins 2 and 3 I have 18.7
Can anyone confirm if these are good or bad readings please? BTW the door clicks open and almost shut with voltage to it. Thanks.
I have a couple of these in my basement, If I get time I'll check the ohm's for you, but from your fault codes that is not your problem,(and the fact that it is mechanically functioning). The faults p1124 and p1126 is lower rpm range adaption to the limits. Whether upper limit or lower limit has been reached can be determined by looking at the RKAT value BEFORE erasing any codes. If the RKAT is at -.36 means lean limit reached by rich condition(99 out of 100 times it will be MAF), if the RKAT is +.36 it means rich limit is reached by lean condition (start looking for a vacuum leak).
I think it has got to be a vacuum leak as I changed the MAF for a new Bosche same part number about 2 months back. If you don't mind, would you still check out the ohms for me on your spares in the basement. Thanks. BTW what does RKAT value mean?
RKAT= German abbreviation, meaning adding or subtracting of fuel for adaption in the lower RPM range near idle
FRA= German abbreviation, meaning adding or subtraction of fuel for adaption in the upper RPM range near rev limit
Hey Porschetech3 I can hear something rattling inside the IACV when I shake it hard in my hands. Shake one of your spares and see do you hear a rattle for me please. I may have damaged something when I was cleaning it. I am gonna put it back on the car as I got a lot of crap from it this time.
We nerds prattle about RKAT,FRA, Ohms, Durametric and Hurdi comes up with the Rattle Test - which may well be the definitive one ? What is the German acronym for 'shake it up?' Well done !
Pin 1 to pin 2 15.9
Pin 1 to pin 3 34.4
Pin 2 to pin 3 17.8
It does rattle a little when shaken VERY hard, but it also needs cleaning so would probably rattle more after cleaning.
Put it back on and do a function test, it should increase or at least maintain RPM after turning A/C on..then will die or almost die if you unplug it while running.
Check your RKAT values and go from there
Much the same reading as mine so I will taker it that is a good one. I put it back again after a thorough cleaning, did 30 miles yerdy and got no codes. Short term trim seems to be more stable as well. I have the Dash Commander on board and my iPhone to give me running info. I am still expecting the 2 codes to come back and when they do I will do another more thorough smoke test with my vaping machine.