Almost more codes than I can count! WTF??!!

Got a recurring CEL yesterday, finally reset it with my Durametric, rather than the crappy bluetooth/iphone app. Oboy. P1531 Camshaft Adjustment bank 1 P0446 Charcoal filter shutoff valve P1126 O2 sensor range 1 P1124 O2 sensor range 2 P1319 misfire emissions relevant P1318 misfire cylinder 6 emissions relevant P1316 misfire cyinder 4 emissions relevant P1315 misfire cylinder 3(?) emission relevant After resetting the codes, some of the origonal codes came back (camshaft adjustment, etc), and two new ones P0150 02 sensor ahead of catalytic converter P1317 misfire cylinder 5 emissions relevant Activated both camshaft adjusters (individually) using the Durametric, with a resultant drop of around 100 rpm on both, with some roughness at idle. Deactivated each (individually) and the engine smoothed out, again at idle. Some readings (idle): O2 1-3: 1.05 O2 4-6: 1.0 FRA 1-3: 1.13 FRA 4-6: 1.14 TRA 1-3: 0.37 TRA 4-6: 0.14 Cam position 1: 0.0 Cam position 2: 3.0 No variances were noted on the cam pos sensers during a test drive Today's task, since this feels like an electrical issue, is to eliminate any loose connections, maybe pull the dme and inspect it, etc. Any suggestoins from the experts?

Hmmm...did you recently refuel? Thinking a crappy tank of fuel. Second up, plot the four O2 sensors. Before and after the cats. Could be you have a bad one although you are getting misfires on both banks, which leads me back to fuel. Remember the DME is using the O2 sensors as feedback on emissions, and making adjustments on the fly.

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My first thought is it is an electrical issue -- but not DME related so leave the DME alone -- and it is due to bad battery or an alternator that is not able to supply the car with all the electrical power it requires. You need to check the battery and the charging system. Be aware the charging system can start out working just fine but after a while the alternator's output can fall off. The battery can take up the slack for a while but these cars require plenty of juice and the battery starts to fall off pretty quick. As this happens the dash lights up, the CEL comes on, the engine can begin to run lousy. If you tell me the car has sat unused for a while then another possibility is rodents have been at the car. Typical is there can be a number of OBD2 errors and other problems that don't seem to related. Might add this is also typical of a under-performing alternator. Here's some info on the error codes: P1124 is oxygen sensing adaptation range 1 (cyls. 1-3) at enrichment limit. P1126 is same error for cyls. 4-6. If DTC P1124 or P1126 logged then fuel/air mixture is too lean. Possible causes: intake system leak; fuel pressure too low; fuel injectors contaminated; volume supply of fuel pump too low. Air leak would have to be common to both banks. One possible air leak source is the AOS. When this starts to go bad it subjects the engine crankcase to extremely low pressure which can pull in air and ultimately end up looking like an air leak at the engine. Check AOS hoses and connections for any signs of cracked or broken hoses or connections. While you there, also check that the oil filler tube cap is not leaking. Assuming the gas tank is not low then you have to check for proper fuel pressure and supply.

Clean your MAF sensor. Very easy to do. Once I had about 30 codes suddenly pop up. Cleaned the sensor and they all vanished, like magic.

What is the year and model and what were the exact codes that came back? Your bank 1 already hit the rich limit and bank 2 is not far from that. Before pulling the dme, it would be helpful to monitor the O2 sensor voltage for all four O2 sensors (using Durametric dme/actual vales). Do a cold start, all sensors shoudl start at 0.44v. After a minute or two, the pre-cat sensors should start to swing between 0.1v to 0.7v every few seconds. If not, there's something wrong with the wiring/pre-cat sensors.

Don't forget to try a new ignition switch at some point in your troubleshooting if you suspect wonky electrical stuff is happening. Probably not the culprit given the symptoms here, but it's a cheap part that's prone to failure anyway and an easy DIY to replace.

As Macster quotes "Air leak would have to be common to both banks. One possible air leak source is the AOS. When this starts to go bad it subjects the engine crankcase to extremely low pressure which can pull in air and ultimately end up looking like an air leak at the engine. Check AOS hoses and connections for any signs of cracked or broken hoses or connections." I had codes 1124 and 1126 and it was down to a split lower accordion style rubber boot on the AOS which was drawing air in MORE at idle than when accelerating. THAT would be the first thing to check IMHO. You can inspect this part from under the car. If it is split you will see oil spray around that area. Jack the car up. Don't bother removing any wheels. It is high up near the rear drivers side wheel. I changed mine and the codes have not come back in the last 3 weeks of driving. A cheap under $20 part which I ziptied in place from under the car. I also thoroughly cleaned my MAFS and Idle air control and throttle body. Previous to the codes coming up, I had an indi replace the AOS so I knew that was OK. However, unknown to me, he did not change the rubber boot. It was then that the 1124 and 1126 codes came up. Use a cotton bud stick to open the sliding door on the Idle air valve and spray inside there several times until the bud comes out clean. Hold the maf in your hand and spray several times with MAF sensor cleaner. BTW I did my 90,000 service changing my coils, plugs, 4 oxygen sensors, and that may have helped in removing the codes. If you have to remove the alternator for any reason. Be very careful handling the vacuum lines as they are very brittle and will break in a heart beat causing you to have to deal with emission/vacuum fault codes. Now my car ticks over around 700 and then 800 as I put the air conditioning on. Before I changed that aos rubber boot the engine took several seconds to return to normal idle because the Oxygen sensor was telling the computer to add gas to compensate for the access air entering the system via the split boot when idling. Now it returns to idle quickly.

Many thanks for the great responses. I filled up with a name brand premium fuel, rechecked everything I could see, and again reset the computer with my Durametric. Now it keeps returning a P1531 with no CEL. Reset, returns the code x a bunch. No other codes appeared during this exercise.I replaced the AOS at overhaul, along with the oil filler cap seal, injectors and all the other things that are replaced in an overhaul. It's possible that I now have another vacuum leak from the sticking fuel injector causing an explosion episode that blew the intake system basically loose (maybe the AOS?). I'll keep looking and posting. BTW, 99 C2 daily driver with 135000 miles/21500 since overhaul. Y cable replaced 1500 miles ago (voltage steady at 13.8 vdc), ignition switch changed around 30000 miles ago. Cleaned the MAF/ICV around 3000 miles ago. Some numbers after fillup, etc: O2 sensor 1-3 0.80 cold 0.99 warm O2 sensor 4-6 0.82 cold 1.00 warm O2 sense vollts ahead of CC bank 1 0.81 cold 0.70 warm Both show normal sawtooth cycle between 0.1 and the high reading O2 sense volts ahead of CC bank 2 0.76 cold 0.72 warm H2OS volts ahead of CC 3.3

Reset once is good enough. You need to drive it for a few days though before you can be sure there are no other codes popping up. P1531 points to bank 1 actuator/solenoid/wiring/dme. Schell G. has an on-going thread diagnosing this. Important question. You wrote "O2 sense vollts ahead of CC bank 1 0.81 cold 0.70 warm Both show normal sawtooth cycle between 0.1 and the high reading O2 sense volts ahead of CC bank 2 0.76 cold 0.72 warm" Any typo of the above? Did you really mean the pre-cat and post-cat sensor voltage on bank 1 BOTH have sawtooth cycle? Also, the pre-cat sensor on bank 2 stayed at 0.72 to 0.76 steady with no sawtooth pattern??

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I meant that both pre-cat o2 sensors were displaying the sawtooth pattern, not the post cat sensors. Post cats were steady. Sorry fior the lack of clarity: my wife is constantly saying something about something like that...

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If you are reading a code with no CEL and the CEL is not burned out the code is a stale code. With my code reader I can view the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) status bit and know from this if the CEL should be on. If the P1531 code becomes active it indicates a problem with either the VarioCam solenoid or actuator, or possibly both.

CEL is working properly, probably just the Durametric/Windows 10 interface: gets wonky sometimes Thanks

it doesn't harm anything, in fact helps to clear carbon deposits from injectors and valves, if you add a can of B 12 Chemtool before you fill up. My advice is to add a can every time you fill the next 6 times. That should make your engine run a lot better. It did with mine. Now ticks over as should do and doesn't surge anymore. It must have cleaned up my fuel injectors. The difference is amazing. You have so many codes appearing that it may solve some of those for you as well. Who knows until you try. My car has 87000 miles on it. You can get the Chemtool at Walmarts for under $3 a can.

Thanks, Ill try that

Hold on. You only gave part info at first. Several lines later you stated "overhaul'. Did you take this engine apart?

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This large number of Codes is not unusual after a rebuild. A kinda vital piece to the diagnosis as you indicate.Lets wait until he disgorges all of it.

Yes, I overhauled the motor 3 years/22000 miles ago. New just about everything. Routine mx after that, with the exception of an injector failure (stuck open, I guess), causing issues with the intake system, detailed in earlier posts. Still working the issues, and will post the solution as soon as I find it. Thanks for the input.