For those with knowledge of GT3 Cup cars I need some advice...

Im going to look at a 2000 G3 Cup tomorrow...Not being extremely familiar with true race cars, I was wondering what things to look out for. TIA!

You are opening a can of worms here. You need to take someone with you that has lots of experience with these cars. Also need to look at the history of what races etc it has been run in. Lots of "no accident" cars have had some serious shunts. Buyer beware.

Well if there is someone in Miami that would like to go along lol....Ive seen the car before at races. The orig. owner is selling the car, it has about 54 hours total on the engine (7 race hours), and he stated the car was in one accident last September at Sebring (which I saw the accident)...I looked at a 360 Modena Challenge with 16 hours on the engine, had a right front hit and a fire in the left rear for $129,000...I walked away at a fast pace from that one.

Get it up on a lift and carefully look at the tub for cracks or creases that indicate the tub has been bent and straightened. Also take a look at the axles and control arms for cracks. If they have not been replaced, you'll probably need to. Race teams treat these parts as consumables, like brake pads. Control arms will crack if not replaced regularly. Get receipts and see what kind of maintenance has been done on the car. How often was the oil and brake fluid changed? Were the shift cables changed? How about suspension parts? Was the tranny updated to the 2001 spec (the orginals has some problems)? Drive the car to check out the synchros, do the gears all engage smoothly? If you can get it dyno'ed, do it. With 54 hours on the engine, it's getting near the end of the cycle and will soon need a rebuild. Have it checked to see if it's down on HP or has any compression leaks. If you're going to race it, you need to check if the car conforms to the specs of the series you want to race in. For example, PCA Club Race has a GTC3 class for GT3 Cup cars but the car must run as it came from the factory. That means no after market wheels (even the BBS wheels that look the same), no aftermarket suspension bits, no mods of any kind, other than safety (it can have a fuel cell). Other series have other rules. If you get a car set up wrong, it could cost you big $ to convert it. As Greg said, this is just the tip of the iceberg. I just bought a GT3 Cup last winter and would be happy to answer any other questions if you want to send me an e-mail. Karl