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Planet-9

Sourcing a Cross Member to Diagnial Brace Stud.

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7 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHSourcing a Cross Member to Diagnial Brace Stud.

1 matching discussions were examined; no attributable action/outcome evidence was detected. No consensus or repair conclusion is claimed.

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1 matching discussions · 7 captured posts examined · 1 partial discussions

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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.

7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Planet-9: 1 discussions

0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.

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Generation: 20261026T105141Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources

POST 1Original post

Ugh, I mixed up some torque values and broke a stud on my cross member. I've searched around and I can't seem to find a source for just the stud. Everyplace I've found just sells the entire cross member. Could anyone help me out and point me to a good source? Your help is deeply appreciated.

POST 2Original post

Buy some M10 x 50 high strength bolts or build a pedro bar. You take two of those studs out anyways......

POST 3Original post

Great upgrade! Thanks for providing us with that detailed video. I’ve heard of the Pedro Bar, but just a few questions. Your scrap bar that you had lying around was a perfect fit but if I need to procure one, any tips on strength or dimensions that will work? Yours was pretty beefy, would any similar bar need to be as thick? Are the forces on the bar tension/compression, (longitudinally, if that is the proper engineering term?), or are they flexion? Since yours was aluminum, would a smaller dimension bar work if it was steel? There was a part in your video that I am not familiar with, (see pic below). What is that, and what is its function? And lastly, I noticed your rear brake rotor in the vid and I’m always curious about what other owners choose when swapping pads and rotors and looking for feedback for my next brake upgrade. What did you go with, please?

POST 4Original post

@RoFromTaco if you still need the stud I have the ones I pulled out when I was installing the Pedro bar somewhere in the garage that I can out in an envelope and send your way.

POST 5Original post

@newold_m Thank you for your extraordinarily generous offer. You have a PM.

POST 6Original post

I made mine after watching the video I posted for you. Mine is 1.5" x 1/4 steel plate from the hardware store. Metric hardware from the hardware store too. Five minutes on the drill press. Ground the corner off on the rear side to get it to lay flat and bolted it up. I don't have measurements. Makes a difference. There is an off ramp that is concrete slabs and you could feel the rear end load up and release. Not now...just suspension working. 4s all seasons. Still need to take it off and paint it....

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