Porsche 996 911 Air Oil Separator and Hose Replacement

Before working near the starter, use a 10 mm socket and ratchet to loosen one battery-terminal clamp and disconnect it from the battery. This isolates the electrical supply to help prevent injury and damage to the vehicle's electrical components. The supplied narration does not identify which terminal is disconnected first.

Use the same 10 mm socket and ratchet to loosen and disconnect the remaining battery-terminal clamp.

Press the two tabs on the mass-airflow sensor connector. Push the connector slightly toward the sensor on the air box, then pull it back off to release it.

Lift the oil-fill tube up out of its retaining position and move it aside to clear the air box.

Loosen the hose clamp securing the intake boot to the throttle body. Use a flathead screwdriver or, as demonstrated, an 8 mm socket and ratchet.

Remove the 13 mm bolt that secures the air box to the engine bay.

Give the intake boot a gentle tug to separate it from the throttle body after loosening its clamp and removing the air-box mounting bolt.

Pull the air box up and out of its mounting position. Watch the mass-airflow sensor wiring, which is still retained by a clip.

Remove the mass-airflow sensor wire from the small retaining clip on the air box so the box is completely free.

Begin clearing the secondary air pump to provide access for moving the expansion tank. Pull back the wiring clip's retaining portion to open the clip.

Lift the wires out of the open clip and lay them to the side.

Close the wiring clip again after removing the wires.

Pull the hose off its connection at the secondary air pump. The demonstration shows it pulling straight off without a separate clamp-release operation.

Move the disconnected hose to the side so it does not obstruct access to the pump fasteners.

Locate the three described 10 mm mounting-fastener positions: the upper position, a lower position, and a position toward the back. One fastener is already missing on the demonstration car, and another is already loose. Check your car rather than assuming its fasteners are in the same condition.

Use a 10 mm socket to remove the upper mounting bolt. This bolt also retains the expansion tank.

Lift or move the pump free of the remaining loose mounting point. On the demonstration car, the lower 10 mm fastener had not been tightened, so the pump slipped out. The source does not demonstrate undoing a correctly tightened fastener at this position.

Separate the electrical connector from the pump. On the demonstration car it slips out because its retaining feature is already broken. For an intact connector, the immediately following explanation specifies pinching the two retaining tabs at the connector end and pulling the connector back to release it.

With its connector disconnected and its previously addressed fasteners released, pull the secondary air pump out.

Before slipping the belt off, note its orientation and routing around the pulleys. Take a photograph so you can refer to it during installation.

Place a 24 mm socket and wrench, or a 24 mm wrench, on the belt tensioner.

Push down on the tool to compress the tensioner, then slip the belt off while the tension is relieved.

Position a floor jack with a piece of wood between the jack and the bottom of the engine sump. Raise the jack against the sump to support the engine before loosening the two 18 mm bolts.

With the engine supported, access the underside and loosen the two 18 mm bolts identified in the demonstration.

On the demonstrated 1999 car, move the throttle all the way back, pull the cable end out of its attachment, and slide it off to the side. The presenter identifies a 2001 vehicle as having an electrical plug instead of this cable; that alternative disconnection is not demonstrated here.

Press the retaining tab until the connector releases, then pull the throttle-position sensor (TPS) plug off and move it out of the way.

If you want to keep track of the connections, particularly when doing more extensive work, label the plug with painter's tape. The presenter notes that the plugs differ, but labeling can still help.

Use a 10 mm socket and an extension to start removing the five bolts identified around the throttle body and its supporting bracket. Begin with the bolt indicated in the demonstration, then work around the throttle body.

Remove the upper-right bolt before removing the upper-left bolt. This gives the attached hose more movement so you do not have to flex it excessively. Finish removing the remaining bolts from the five-bolt group.

Unhook the clip securing the throttle cable to the throttle-body plate. Compress the two retaining pins and push the clip back through the plate. The presenter first tries pliers, then uses a flathead screwdriver to complete the release.

Press the metal retaining tab to disengage the connector, then pull the plug off the sensor.

Use pliers to release the clamp securing the remaining hose to the throttle body.

With the clamp released, pull the hose off its throttle-body connection.

Lift the freed throttle body out and set it aside.

For additional access, use pliers to carefully release the clamp at the solenoid end of the hose that was connected to the throttle body. This extra removal is described as optional and is performed to improve filming access.

Pull the released hose off the solenoid connection.

Reconnect the removed hose to the throttle body on the worktable so you can remember where it belongs.

Press down on the connector's release tab and pull the plug off the solenoid. This is part of the optional access work.

Disconnect the additional hose indicated by the presenter so the adjacent lines can be moved aside for air oil separator access. The presenter notes that this removal is unnecessary for the starter job being filmed alongside this repair. The supplied view and narration do not establish the hose's name or its exact release mechanism.

Find the ridged release areas on the top and bottom of the line's connector. Squeeze both areas and pull the connector off the plenum. If it resists, the presenter demonstrates using pliers to apply even pressure to both tabs. Be very gentle if reusing the line: aged plastic can become brittle and crack. The line on the demonstrated car is being replaced.

Push the disconnected air oil separator line to the side to clear access to the plenum and its clamps.

Use a 7 mm socket on a long extension with a quarter-inch ratchet to loosen the two inner hose clamps. These are the first pair to loosen in the four-clamp removal sequence.

With both inner clamps loose, rotate the plenum to break its grip on the connecting boots.

After breaking the plenum free, tighten the two inner clamps again before working on the outer clamps.

Use the 7 mm socket to loosen the two outer clamps that secure the connecting boots to the intake manifolds.

With the outer clamps loose, twist the plenum and boot assembly as before to release the boots from the manifolds.

Loosen the two inner clamps again, leaving the outer clamps loose. All four clamps should now be loose so the plenum can be worked out.

Work the plenum out of the loosened connecting boots and lift it out of the engine bay.

Carefully pull off the connecting boot on the left, identified in the video as the driver's side. A vacuum line passes through the boot, so avoid pulling the boot away without accounting for that connection.

Locate the vacuum connection protruding through the left boot and gently push it through to free the boot. Note the position of its feed so this connection is not forgotten during reassembly.

Carefully pull off the connecting boot on the right side. It also has a vacuum connection in the same position as the left boot.

Find the vacuum connection in the right boot and push it through to release the boot. Note the location of the right-side feed for reassembly.

Undo the six bolts securing the left intake manifold. On the demonstrated car, use a 10 mm socket with a small quarter-inch ratchet that fits between the manifold runners. Some cars use Torx fasteners instead of the demonstrated hex bolts. The source explains that the manifold attachments must be loosened to provide clearance for the rear plenum; the demonstrated left manifold is being removed to access the air oil separator.

With the intake-manifold bolts loosened, work the middle/rear plenum out of its seated position to create removal clearance. Handle it carefully: it contains a resonance flap with a vacuum connection at the back that must not be damaged.

Reach the single vacuum line connected to the back of the plenum and pull it off its connection. Take care around the resonance-flap connector.

Once the rear vacuum line is disconnected, pull the entire plenum piece out of the engine bay.

Confirm that everything attached to the left intake manifold has been disconnected, all six manifold bolts are out, and both plenums have been removed.

Hold the displaced hoses and other nearby items out of the way while carefully working the left intake manifold free and lifting it out.

Place towels inside each exposed intake runner opening to prevent objects from falling into the engine. Keep the openings protected until you are ready to reinstall the manifold.

For the optional breather-hose replacement, begin by extracting as much hydraulic fluid as possible from the power-steering reservoir. With the reservoir cap off, use the extraction syringe or equivalent tool. Repeat the extraction several times to remove as much fluid as you can reach.

Put the cap back on after extracting the fluid. This keeps debris from falling into the reservoir while you prepare to remove it.

Use a 10 mm socket with an extension to remove the bolt securing the reservoir bracket to the intake manifold.

Arrange shop towels beneath the point where the reservoir separates from the power-steering pump. Fluid remains below the extractor's reach and will spill when the reservoir comes off.

Rotate the reservoir locking ring counterclockwise to release it. The presenter first attempts to turn it by hand; the old connection is tight.

With the locking ring released, wiggle or gently twist the reservoir while lifting it out of the pump connection. The presenter identifies two O-rings that seal this connection and explains that the long-installed reservoir fits tightly.

Pop the small breather hose out of the clip that holds it alongside the reservoir. Once the hose is free of the clip, remove the reservoir completely.

Remove the shop towels used to catch fluid beneath the reservoir connection.

Use the extraction syringe again to draw fluid out of the exposed pump neck. The fluid is still near the brim, where even slight engine movement could cause it to spill.

Place a shop towel in the pump-neck opening to keep debris from falling into the pump while the surrounding components are apart. The towel will also absorb some residual fluid.

Pop open the positive-terminal cap on the junction box to expose the cable retaining nut. Confirm that the battery is already disconnected before proceeding with the electrical connection.

Thread the previously removed 10 mm fastener back into place to support the bracket while loosening the terminal nut. Without that support, the bracket flexes as force is applied.

Use a 13 mm tool to loosen the nut securing the positive cable to the junction terminal. Once loose, finish unthreading it by hand.

Lift the cable connection off the terminal after removing its retaining nut, freeing the cable from the junction box.

Remove the two 10 mm nuts on the right-hand side of the positive-terminal box. Removing them frees the box from its mounting points.

Loosen the remaining 10 mm fastener at the bottom of the bracket, then disengage the bracket from its open notch. This fastener only locks the notched section in place and does not need to be removed completely.

Thread the two removed 10 mm nuts back onto their original mounting locations, along with the other removed nut the presenter returns to its location. These fasteners will not obstruct the upcoming work; putting them back keeps track of where they belong.

With the junction box secured out of the way, push the power cable back and to the side to clear the compressor access area. Leave the other loose cable movable; there will be more room to reposition it after moving the compressor.

Use a 13 mm socket on a wrench to break the accessible front compressor bolts loose. The compressor has three mounting bolts in total, including two at the front. If one front bolt is difficult to access, loosen the other accessible bolt first.

To try to gain clearance around the obstructed front compressor bolt, remove the 10 mm bolt securing the plastic cable-harness support below it. The presenter also identifies this support as something that must come off for the later intake-manifold and oil-cooler work.

Use a magnetic pickup tool to fish the loosened support bolt out of the confined space and set it aside.

Removing the support bolt does not provide enough clearance. Cut the zip tie securing the harness and check underneath for another tie. The supplied explanation does not confirm that a second tie is present.

Begin freeing the third compressor bolt at the rear. The front-right bolt cannot yet be withdrawn because it runs into the intake manifold; loosening the rear mounting point will let the compressor move enough to improve clearance.

Lift the temperature sensor found between the intake runners up and to the side. The presenter identifies its intended location in the manifold and notes that it must be returned there during reassembly.

Reach the rear compressor bolt with a wobble extension. Keep the socket fully seated on the bolt. In the demonstrated arrangement, the extension is only barely engaged with the socket so that any slipping occurs at the extension connection rather than between the socket and bolt. Loosen the bolt until all three compressor mounting bolts are loose.

With all three mounting bolts loose, shift the compressor to gain clearance. Pull out the front bolt that previously struck the manifold and set it aside.

Reach in and try to fish out the rear bolt. If it cannot be withdrawn, leave it with the compressor for the following movement; the demonstration ultimately leaves a bolt captive because an A/C line prevents its removal.

Hold the rear bolt up while gently drawing the compressor forward by its upper line, as described by the presenter. This movement was largely out of view in the source.

Before moving the compressor farther out, locate the clutch electrical connector between the intake runners. Pull the compressor lead out of its connector to disconnect it. No additional latch-release technique is specified.

Move the compressor out and rest it on the nearby body ridge over a thick protective pad. Leave the mounting bolt that is obstructed by the A/C line in place; in the demonstrated arrangement, it also acts as a stop against the compressor rolling back into the engine bay.

Fit a zip tie around the strut to retain the displaced compressor. Leave it without tension in its resting position; it serves as a safety restraint if the compressor starts to fall into the engine bay or outward toward the paintwork.

Inspect the area exposed by moving the compressor. The remaining large separator line does not terminate beneath the compressor: it passes through the right-bank intake runners and ends beneath the intake manifold, below the fuel line and behind the upper coolant hose. Use this location to assess access before proceeding.

For the demonstrated intake-manifold access route, pull the harness and power line to the side. Keep the small plastic clip that organizes the cables together so the cables remain organized.

Pull up on the harness running through the manifold area to create clearance. Its zip tie was cut earlier, but that did not free the harness completely. The harness runs underneath the manifold; leave enough clearance to slide the loose manifold out without tugging on or damaging the wiring.

Remove the bolts securing this manifold, starting at the front and working toward the back, as with the left-hand bank. The supplied section does not state the bolt count or tool size.

As you withdraw the manifold, fish the vacuum line through the gap between its first and second intake runners. Remember this routing: the line must pass back through those same runners during installation so it is not forgotten or pinched.

With the manifold loose and the vacuum line fed clear, ease the manifold out from underneath the lifted harness. Avoid pulling hard on the harness.

Use a 19 mm socket to remove all five wheel fasteners. Removing this wheel provides easier access to the bolts securing the AOS.

Take the wheel out of the working area after removing its five fasteners.

Remove the sensor indicated in the demonstration from its housing. The supplied narration does not identify the sensor or explain its retaining mechanism.

Push the removed sensor to the side to clear the working area.

Remove the 10 mm bolt securing the bracket. Moving this bracket will provide access to the hose connected to the AOS.

With its bolt removed, push the bracket out of the way to expose the AOS hose connection.

Thread the 10 mm bracket bolt back into its original hole for safekeeping while leaving the bracket aside.

Use the demonstrated hose-clamp tool to release the lower clamp on the accordion hose. The narrator does not name the tool.

Push into the accordion hose enough to begin freeing the connection. The demonstrator leaves it partly started and proceeds to the next line, noting that it may need further attention.

Use pliers to pinch the tabs on the line connected to the bottom of the AOS. Access is restricted, making this connection difficult to release.

With the release tabs compressed, use the pliers to help push the line back off the AOS connection. Work carefully to avoid breaking the line.

Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the AOS to the engine block.

Before lifting out the AOS and attached lines, use the clamp tool to release the clamp on the coolant line indicated in the demonstration. The AOS is being removed with most of its lines because those lines are being replaced.

Twist the coolant hose at its connection to break it free, then disconnect it.

Pull the AOS toward the driver's side of the car before lifting it. This sideways movement disengages its projecting side connection from the engine block.

As you begin lifting the assembly, undo the hook-and-loop heat shield around the bundled lines. The line on the left goes to the oil cooler and must stay in the vehicle.

Move the oil-cooler line off to the left, clear of the AOS and the lines being removed.

Close the heat shield again after separating the oil-cooler line to keep the remaining bundle neat.

Finish lifting the AOS and attached replacement-bound lines out of the engine bay. Once its side connection has disengaged from the block, the assembly can come upward.

At the bench, compare the new AOS with the removed assembly to establish where each line belongs. Identify the two small nipples and the two main-line connections. Because the lines are being replaced, the old assembly can remain together as a reference.

Select the longer hose, corresponding to the old hose with some braided covering. Put its clamp onto the hose before fitting the hose to the AOS.

Feed the longer replacement hose onto the lower small nipple of the new AOS. Lower refers to the nipple's position with the AOS installed in the vehicle. Keep the clamp ready on the hose.

With the longer hose already fitted to the lower nipple of the new separator, use clamp pliers to tighten its clamp. Check that the connection is snug and the hose stays in place.

Place a clamp on the next hose, then push the hose onto the separator’s upper nipple.

Position and tighten the clamp on the upper hose connection until the hose is snug.

Compare the replacement hard line with the old one to confirm that their shapes and connections match.

Plug the matching hard line into the connection at the top of the separator.

Clean the heat shield or protective sheathing from the old assembly. Wrap it around the new hoses and separator.

Add a zip tie to hold the lines together, following the similar arrangement on the original assembly.

Lightly lubricate the separator’s rubber fitting to help it enter the engine block. The source does not identify the lubricant.

With the hoses arranged on the separator, feed the assembly into the engine bay and place it approximately in its installed position.

Move underneath the vehicle. Align the separator’s block connection first, before working the accordion hose onto its connection. Access is restricted, so much of this positioning must be done by feel.

Work the accordion-style hose onto its mating connection. Feel around the connection to establish that the boot has seated.

With the accordion boot seated, start the separator’s other connection into the engine block by hand. At this stage, the fitting is started but is not yet fully seated.

Return to the engine bay and adjust the separator’s angle against the block. Push it toward the engine to seat its inner connection. This is opposite the removal movement, which pulled it toward the left side of the engine bay. Work it into position until the two lower mounting holes should align.

Return underneath the vehicle. Work the accordion boot and separator into their final seated positions, then check that the mounting holes align sufficiently to start the bolts.

Start the two mounting bolts with 10 mm heads in the aligned holes and snug them down. The presenter gives approximately 10 Nm as the torque value if using a torque wrench.

Pull the retaining safety pin out of the new clamp at the bottom of the accordion-style hose, allowing the clamp to close.

Inspect the released clamp. In the demonstration, it does not seat correctly, so use pliers to reposition it properly over the hose connection to prevent leakage.

Use a pick along with the pliers to help seat the clamp in the restricted space. Confirm that it is correctly positioned before moving on.

Leave the breather hose disconnected while replacing the breather assembly, as demonstrated. Return to the engine bay and use a 10 mm socket on an extension to loosen the fitting’s retaining bolt. The presenter notes that it should release without much force.

Use a magnetic pickup tool to fish the loosened bolt out of the confined space.

Reach in from behind with a long screwdriver and gently pry the fitting upward. The demonstrated approach initially leaves the line attached because both the line and fitting are being replaced. If retaining the fitting, disconnect the line at the fitting instead; the presenter recommends replacing the fitting. Pry carefully so the fitting does not break and drop pieces into the engine.

Check the area for debris as the fitting lifts. Give the area a quick blast of air if available, or otherwise clear loose material to keep it from falling into the engine opening.

Disconnect the fitting from the breather pipe so the assembly can clear the underside of the fuel rail. The pipe cannot come out through this area with the fitting connected.

Check that the replacement pipe is intact. Feed its right-hand side through the intake runner first, following the old pipe's route relative to the wiring harnesses.

Once the right-hand end is through the runner, connect the pipe fitting while it is still accessible above the fuel rail. Make this connection before feeding it down beneath the rail.

Continue feeding the pipe through. On the left-hand side, keep the pipe beneath the harnesses and wires. The knock-sensor connector and another connector in the middle of the engine valley have been disconnected to provide clearance.

Route the knock-sensor wiring over the breather tube and then back underneath it. Plug the knock-sensor connector back in.

Route the other disconnected connector over the tube and plug it back in before continuing.

Guide the breather end back into its hole in the engine block.

Reach in with a long flathead screwdriver and use it to help seat the fitting in the block. Continue until the fitting is fully in position.

Install the new 10 mm fastener. The supplied fastener already has threadlocking compound applied.

Push the lower crankcase hose onto the bottom of the air oil separator. Listen for the click indicating that the connection has engaged.

Return the bracket that holds the crank-position-sensor wiring and ground cable to its mounting position. Retrieve the bolt left in place earlier for safekeeping.

Include the ground cable in the mounting assembly. Feed the screw through the ground-cable terminal first, then through the bracket.

Use a 10 mm socket to snug the screw into place. The presenter states no more than 5–7 ft-lb if using a torque wrench; this screw holds the wiring bracket.

Feed the other cable back into the clip that holds it in place. This completes the demonstrated work underneath the vehicle.

Move back to the top of the engine to continue reassembly and replacement of the remaining kit components.

Locate the small coolant line and plastic connector running along the front of the engine. Use a flathead screwdriver to work the lower clamp apart. The demonstrated clamp becomes mangled during removal. The presenter uses an OE plastic replacement connector and notes that an upgrade is available.

Because the entire connector-and-hose assembly is being replaced, use a 10 mm socket to remove its mounting bolt so the assembly can come off as one piece.

With the lower clamp released and mounting bolt removed, pull the old hose and connector assembly off the nipple and out of position.

Mate the replacement connector to the replacement hose before fitting the assembly to the engine. The presenter has already made this connection to simplify installation.

Position the preassembled hose and connector and slip the lower hose connection onto its nipple. The lower clamp and 10 mm mounting bolt still need to be secured.

Guide the small clip at the bottom of the new connector onto the bottom of the mounting bracket. Make sure it latches onto the bracket to locate the connector.

Thread the supplied replacement mounting bolt into place using the 10 mm tool size identified in the video. Use the new hardware included in the kit instead of reusing the old bolt.

Use the clamp-crimping pliers to press the clamp down around the hose connection. Check that the connection is snug and secure.

Tighten the mounting bolt with the 10 mm tool. The presenter specifies no more than about 5–7 ft-lb and demonstrates snugging it by hand, explaining that it only holds this coolant hose connection in place.

Before installing the intake manifold, pull the old gaskets out of their grooves. The presenter states that each manifold has three gaskets.

Place the replacement gaskets into the manifold grooves. Align each gasket's small notch with the corresponding notch in the manifold, seating them as accurately as possible.

Return the manifold to the engine. Route the vacuum line between the first and second intake runners. Check that no hose, wiring, or other item will be pinched or obstruct the manifold. Move the wiring harness slightly if needed to see the installation area.

With the manifold aligned, install its hardware and thread every fastener in a little by hand before tightening any of them fully.

After all the fasteners have been started by hand, tighten them to secure the manifold. The supplied section does not state a torque value or tightening sequence.

Before returning the A/C compressor to its mounts, make sure the metal bushing for the third, rear mounting bolt is in place. Without this bushing positioned correctly, the compressor will not line up evenly.

Feed the compressor back into the engine bay. Its rear bolt remains in the compressor, so hold that bolt up while positioning the unit. The bolt farther to the right also remains installed in the compressor.

Feed the compressor's electrical plug between the intake runners as you position the compressor. Leave it accessible for reconnection after mounting the compressor.

Feed the top-left bolt into its mounting hole to align the two front bolts. Give it only a couple of threads so the compressor retains enough movement to align the remaining bolts.

Start the lower mounting bolt by hand while the compressor can still move slightly.

Start the third bolt at the back. Check that all three bolts line up and thread into their mounts properly before tightening them.

Torque the compressor mounting bolts to 25 N·m. The presenter also gives an approximate figure of 17½ ft-lb, with uncertainty; these stated values are not exact equivalents.

If the rubber grommet is difficult to fit, spread a small amount of dielectric grease over it. Use the applicator tip to distribute a thin amount rather than applying a large quantity. The presenter explains that this helps insertion without degrading the rubber.

Separate the grommet from the temperature sensor. Fit the grommet into its mounting slot by itself first.

Once the grommet is seated, insert the temperature sensor into it separately. On the vehicle shown, the sensor had previously been left out of its proper mounting position.

Push the A/C clutch electrical connector back together until it clips into place.

Tuck the reconnected wiring down below with the rest of the wiring harness.

Place the junction box retaining bracket into the notch below. Snug its attachment slightly so the bracket does not move around.

Feed the previously retained 10 mm fastener back into the upper attachment and use it to align the bracket holes. This is temporary: the fastener must come back out for power-steering reservoir installation.

Tighten the bracket attachments until they are snug by hand. The presenter suggests approximately 5 ft-lb if using a torque wrench, but describes this as an estimate rather than a specified torque.

Open the junction box, place the remaining cable connection onto its attachment, and reinstall its 13 mm fastener to secure it.

Close the junction-box cover after securing the cable connection.

Remove the rag that was left in place before proceeding with power-steering reservoir installation.

Remove the 10 mm fastener that was temporarily installed to hold the bracket aligned, making room for the power-steering reservoir.

With the air oil separator lines connected, slide the left-bank intake manifold back into place. The presenter states that its gaskets have already been replaced, as on the right-bank manifold. Leave the manifold loose so there is room to fit the plenums and connect the resonance-valve vacuum line.

Position the rear-plenum hose clamp up and off to the side so it does not obstruct installation.

While the rear plenum is still accessible outside its installed position, push the vacuum line onto the connection at the back of the resonance valve.

Feed the rear-plenum assembly all the way into position, keeping the hose clamps clear as you guide it through.

Work the rear plenum into its connections on both sides. Make sure both connections are properly seated so they will seal without leaks.

Adjust the hose clamps into position for later tightening. Leave them loose until the intake manifold is fully bolted down.

Locate the vacuum-line port in the first front-plenum boot connector and feed its vacuum line through the port. Pull the line through far enough to match the demonstrated placement before seating the boot.

Slip the first boot connector onto its connection with the vacuum line routed through its port. Keep the assembly adjustable while the manifold remains loose.

Locate the vacuum-line port in the left boot connector and feed the left vacuum line through the hole.

Slip the left boot connector onto its connection with the vacuum line passing through the port. The presenter notes that the vacuum line almost acts as a stop for how far the boot slides on.

Position the front plenum so its breather-hose connector is on the same side as the breather hose: the vehicle's left side.

Loosely slip the front plenum into its boot connections. Leave the hose clamps loose until the manifold is bolted down; final boot adjustment and clamp tightening are described here as later work.

Align the first intake-manifold bolt and include the accessory bracket that belongs at this attachment. Thread the bolt in a couple of turns by hand, leaving enough movement to align the remaining bolts.

Align and hand-start the second intake-manifold bolt. Leave it loosely engaged while positioning the next bolt.

Align and start the third intake-manifold bolt while the manifold still has enough movement for the bolt to engage.

Use a 10 mm socket to torque the intake-manifold fasteners to approximately 7–7.5 ft-lb.

Remove the two 8 mm bolts previously threaded back into the manifold for safekeeping. These secure the breather-line bracket.

Key the breather line back into its position on the manifold.

Set the bracket into place with the breather line and align its mounting holes.

Reinstall the two 8 mm bolts and snug them down. They thread into plastic housings, so do not overtighten or strip the threads.

Push the electrical connector onto the solenoid on the left-hand side until it clips into place.

With both manifolds bolted down, orient the previously loose plenum clamps so their tightening screws are accessible from above. This makes future access easier.

Tighten the hose clamps securing the plenums. Use a 7 mm socket, a Phillips screwdriver, or a flathead screwdriver.

Locate the four arrow-shaped indexing marks on the reservoir and the receiving end of the pump. Match these features and insert the reservoir into its keyed position.

Rotate the locking collar as you seat the reservoir. Once the reservoir feels seated, rotate the collar back upward until it aligns with the notch on the receiving end of the pump. The seated reservoir should have little room to rotate.

Tug the reservoir to check its engagement. The initial fit demonstrated was not fully seated; correct the seating and collar engagement if the reservoir is not secure.

Align the brackets, reinstall the 10 mm bolt, and tighten it snugly.

Place the breather hose back into its retaining clip.

Give the reservoir one final pull to confirm it remains securely locked in place.

Position the throttle body at its mounting location and thread the top-left bolt in by hand.

Thread the bottom-left mounting bolt into place.

Thread the top-right mounting bolt into place.

Thread the bottom-right mounting bolt into place after the top-right bolt. The narration identifies both right-side bolts in the same transcript segment.

Work around all four corners and tighten the bolts evenly. These small bolts thread into a plastic housing. The presenter specifies 5–7 ft-lb and cautions against exceeding that range.

Tighten the lower 10 mm nut on the rubber bushing just until snug. Do not overtighten it, because this can tear the bushing.

Reach beneath the throttle body and reconnect the first electrical plug. The presenter notes that reconnecting these plugs before mounting the throttle body would have provided easier access.

Reach behind the throttle body and reconnect the second electrical plug. Access is more difficult with the throttle body installed.

Pull the throttle cable outward so its end can be placed into the throttle linkage.

Actuate the throttle linkage all the way back to provide access for installing the cable end.

Feed the cable head into the linkage. If it does not drop fully into position, adjust the cable alignment at the back until the head seats properly.

Install the new nut identified by the presenter as an 18 mm nut. The supplied narration does not identify the component this nut secures.

Torque the newly installed nut to 63 ft-lb.

Repeat the preceding mounting-nut installation on the opposite side: install the new 18 mm nut and snug it down. The preceding context establishes the nut size; this segment does not show the full mounting arrangement.

With the nut snug, torque it to 63 foot-pounds.

Before positioning the secondary air pump, plug in its electrical connector. Align the notch first; the connector fits only one way.

Check the small channel that normally holds the wiring in place. If it is broken or missing, as on the demonstrated car, secure the wiring with a zip tie.

Remove the 10 mm nut previously reinstalled to keep the tank in place. This allows the secondary air pump to be fitted back into position.

Slip the secondary air pump roughly into its installed position.

Slip the hose over its connection on the pump. The demonstrated connection is a press fit with no clamp present. The presenter does not establish whether a clamp was originally fitted.

Reinstall the 10 mm nut removed to position the pump. The presenter notes that two additional bolts would normally secure the pump, but the demonstrated car has missing or ineffective hardware; replacement of those bolts is deferred.

Pop the wiring clip open, slip the wires inside, and close the clip over them.

Feed the new belt into the pulley area. Work upward from the water pump because that pulley is the most difficult one to reach.

Once the belt is mostly routed, pull it off the upper roller. This roller is easier to reach and will be the final place where the belt is slipped on.

Fit the belt onto all the other pulleys while leaving the upper roller free. Reach underneath the car to get the belt onto the water pump pulley.

Give the belt a quick tug and inspect its placement on all the pulleys already engaged. Make sure it looks correctly seated before completing installation.

Put the 24 mm tool back on the tensioner and move the tensioner to allow the belt to slip onto the remaining upper roller. A new belt stretches less than the old belt and may be tighter to install. Complete the installation and allow the tensioner to take up the belt tension.

Inspect the underside of the air box for its two locating dowels, then begin slipping the box into place. The demonstrated box is missing one dowel, so the presenter uses the remaining right-side dowel to locate it.

As you lower the air box, run the mass airflow sensor wire through the clip on the corner of the box.

Align the air box and make sure the locating dowel enters its receiving point below the box.

With the air box aligned and seated, slip the intake boot onto its connection.

Reinstall and tighten the 13 mm bolt that holds the air box in place. No torque value is supplied.

Pop the oil filler tube back into its retaining position.

Tighten the intake boot clamp using an 8 mm socket. The presenter also identifies a flat-head screwdriver as an alternative.

Pop the air tube back into its installed position.

Plug the electrical connector back into the mass airflow sensor.

With the engine bolted back into place, slowly lower the floor jack as a precaution. Pull the jack out of the way.