5 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHelectrical problems? door window not opening with door
Reported or suspected cause
due
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
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1
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Reported cause
Your window problem is due to a micro switch in the door latch, or a problem with the latching mechanism.
electrical problems? door window not opening with door
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Leading evidence: 'due' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'due' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check are the microswitches' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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electrical problems? door window not opening with door
Use frequently
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced the whole latch as I figure it's a 16 year old part that is essential and is used frequently.
electrical problems? door window not opening with door
switch or the mechanism
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
I'm not sure if that indicates that it was the switch or the mechanism, but in either case, replacing the latch assembly fixed the issue.
electrical problems? door window not opening with door
Check are the microswitches
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Suggestion
Cheaper and worth checking are the microswitches but your issue points to the regulator IMHO.
electrical problems? door window not opening with door
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
5 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 1 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
The body shop fixed it (didn't replace it - but it looks great).
I had a hit and run involving the right rear wheel fender. The body shop fixed it (didn't replace it - but it looks great). My insurance covered it.
Anyway, I go pick up the car, and I notice that my windows are not rolling down. The switch doesnt even work. The guy looked at the fuse and it was blown. He replaced the fuse and windows work. Great.
Then I notice when I opened the frunk, the interior frunk light was taken off, bulb not in it, and it was not put back. I think they took it apart so when they left frunk open the light wouldnt burn out, which is fine, however they didn't put it back (which I thought was lack of attention to detail. Also in this category, the battery cover was taken off for trickle charging but not put back). So he puts the bulb in and it doesnt work. He takes some took with a light on it, sticks it in either socket and one socket burns the tool's light brighter the other socket less. Guy says both sockets are "positive" which he says is not right. So then keep the car a few more days and fix that.
I go pick up the car, and now, I see that when I open the driver's door, the window comes down (like it should) but goes back up completely before the door closes, thusly it wont let the driver door to close. I have to close the door by having the window down then close the window. So I do the reset trick (hold down till all windows go down, hold for 5 seconds, then up, hold 5 seconds). I open the door again, the window comes down a notch and goes right back up. The passenger door is fine; when it opens, the window comes down a notch but stays a little down allowing door to close before it automatically comes back up.
Long story short, the driver door window comes down as it should when door is opened, but comes right back up before door is closed thus not allowing the door to close.
TL;DR:
Everything was working perfectly before I took the car to the body shop. I get the car back with a blown fuse that didnt allow windows to work. It was replaced. Then interior frunk light didnt work, and both sockets were "positive" which they fix now light works. Now, the driver window comes down as it should when door is opened but immediately goes back up when handle let go, now allowing door to close unless window is down.
Any possibility when they screwed with the wiring for the frunk light it affect the driver window automatic thing? I already tried the reset trick.. didnt work.
So now he's taking the car to the dealer to figure out whats wrong.
Help?
Also, what if he says, X Y Z is screwed up and now needs to be replaced, it's going to cost $$$$.
Isn't he responsible for it? I took the car to him in perfect condition...
Sounds like the regulator needs replacing. Had the same issue and could be a fluke it happened after the repair, but doubtful they had anything to do with it. It's a common problem. Cheaper and worth checking are the microswitches but your issue points to the regulator IMHO.
You need to describe what they did to "fix" the positive power to both terminals at the trunk light. Fuse C3 covers the central alarm system, power windows and interior lights - all things that need 12V power even when the car is not running. If the fuse was blown, somehow things got hooked up wrong. How in the world did having the right rear fender repaired by a body shop result in these problems? Did they hook the trickle charger up wrong? It is possible that since the fuse was blown, one of the microswitches on the door handle got fried. The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery negative terminal, wait 15 minutes and reconnect to do a total system reset.
Your window problem is due to a micro switch in the door latch, or a problem with the latching mechanism. The switch itself is not available from Porsche so you have to replace the whole latch mechanism for around $140 if you shop around online. I had the same problem and replaced mine a year or so ago.
There are three switches that work the drop-down magic. One is in the interior handle. One is in the exterior handle. The third is in the latch.
If the window drops when you lift either the inner or outer handles, those switches are fine. If the window drops and then returns when you release the handle with the door open, it's the latch. That switch isn't detecting that the door is still open.
With mine, I was able to stick my finger into the receiver part of the latch and the window would drop again. I'm not sure if that indicates that it was the switch or the mechanism, but in either case, replacing the latch assembly fixed the issue.
A few people have bought micro switches online for a dollar or two and then hacked them to work in the latch rather than replacing the whole latch. I replaced the whole latch as I figure it's a 16 year old part that is essential and is used frequently. There are some good DIY write-ups available and it's not too difficult.
Could it be a coincidence that this happened while they were working on something else? It could be. Ironically, mine failed while I was replacing the passenger door micro switch.
