6 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLimp mode and throttle position after dead battery
Leading reported evidence
Reset codes and it began
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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1
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Limp mode and throttle position after dead battery
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Leading evidence: 'Reset codes and it began' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any active/pending error codes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Limp mode and throttle position after dead battery
Check any active/pending error codes
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Limp mode and throttle position after dead battery
Clean (carefully & correctly) the maf.unlikely source of problem
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
The other easy check is to remove and clean(carefully & correctly) the MAF.Unlikely source of problem but it can only help.
Limp mode and throttle position after dead battery
Replace battery being very careful
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Suggestion
My advice then would be to replace the battery being very careful to follow the battery replacement instructions.
Limp mode and throttle position after dead battery
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I cleared the code ( it was a pending code) while the car was running and things went back to normal.
Totally new to this car. It had a dead battery so i jumped it as per the manual. It cranked by did not want to fire. After letting it charge a bit it fired up.
Now the fun starts, it would not go past 15 mph or above about 1200 rpm. i got a cel P1502 light and my scanner said its the fuel pump relay.
I reset the codes and it began running normal. The next time i started it was back to the rough idle/limp mode. I cleared the code ( it was a pending code) while the car was running and things went back to normal. This continues every time i re-start the car. This is what has me stumped.
Battery voltage is good, but i will replace this battery since i do not know how long it was sitting for dead. I will replace the fuel pump relay, cheap insurance. When running its at about 13.8 volts.
Please advise, im trying to not take this to a mechanic .
FYI i have tried the e-gas reset by turning on ignition for 1 min then turn off for 30 seconds. this did not have any effect.
I have noticed when it is limp mode the throttle position is at 5.1% no matter the positino of the pedal. once i clear the codes, it drops to 2.4% and functions normal.
P1502: Throttle Jacking Unit, spring test above limit.
The error and behavior suggest a problem with throttle.
What you can try is this: A dead/discharged lead acid battery never recovers fully from that. And the battery was probably on its way out before it went dead.
My advice then would be to replace the battery being very careful to follow the battery replacement instructions.
You want to leave the car with no battery power for a while though to thoroughly power cycle the car's electronics.
Install the new battery then perform the E-Gas calibration. Check for any active/pending error codes. If you get that P1502 again the throttle is suspect.
Since you don't want to take the car to a mechanic then all I can recommend is you carefully remove the throttle body and carefully clean it. Use a throttle body cleaner. Do not scrub, scrape, polish, or try to force the throttle valve open or closed.
Install the throttle body and do another E-Gas calibration. Again check for any active/pending error codes. If the P1502 is still showing up the throttle body is suspect. A professional mechanic well experienced with these cars might have some other things to check. Otherwise the throttle body probably needs to be replaced.
Macster's advice to replace the battery may seem excessive but imho he is correct. The Pro opinion(not me) is that If the date code on the battery is more than 2 years old and the battery totally drains,it will be suspect. It is cheap and easy to R&R. 13.8v running indicates that the charging system is O.K. (13.5-14.4v engine running). But what is the charged ,engine off,key off voltage across the battery posts? It needs to be at least 12.4v(normal is 12.6v) after a 12 hour rest.
If you are doing diy ,in my experience you need Durametric. Using even a sophisticated code reader like the Solus - you will get only part of the story sometimes. That will cause you to waste time & money on needless parts. The Durametric results will also enable us to give you more focused suggestions. The other easy check is to remove and clean(carefully & correctly) the MAF.Unlikely source of problem but it can only help.
Eventually ,you'll need to find a competent ,honest Indie unless you are ready for a lot of learning and special tool purchases. Ask her for recommendations.
