Build Thread: '99 C2 996 LS1 Swap

Hi everyone, I'm new to Rennlist. I recently purchased a 1999 Porsche 996 C2 with the M96 and Tiptronic combo. Unfortunately, the engine has a rod knock and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I looked at a few options and made up my mind that this deserves a LS1/G96 swap. I drove across the state in the dead of winter last year to grab this car after it had been sitting a while. It's in rough shape in a few areas and has some beauty scars for sure. It definitely has been in an unreported accident as the front bumper is chipping and has yellow paint underneath and there's a couple small dents underneath the doors. Minor stuff, nothing too crazy. The interior needs a bit of help too, the carbon fiber Tip steering wheel is cracked and the seats have seen much better days. I would never really want an automatic sports car, so that's why I'm swapping to the 6MT at the same time. I've LS swapped my Wrangler after extensively modifying it with coilovers, custom built 1 ton axles, custom front frame, and a 5.3L/4L80e/Stak Dana 300 combo pushing around 380-400 hp at the crank. I run a 3000 stall converter through this with quite a few coolers and love it. I miss my BMW 135i, so therefore the barely running 996 came home with me. Here's a pic of the Jeep for reference. I built everything you see on it over the last 10 years: 85WTMzWh.jpg Onto the Porsche build! Dragging the 996 home for it's new life: fNB8LLNh.jpg It was in rough shape after the blizzard coming home 51VDmoCh.jpg Cleaned up, it's not so bad. Definitely a 10 foot car instead of a 1 foot car though... HdTbfNph.jpg I started searching and found a few things I needed to get started. I did TONS of research before deciding to go with the Porsche G96 6 speed manual with a limited slip. I also knew I wanted an aluminum block variant of the LS and found a disassembled LS1 waiting for pickup at a great price. I brought that home and cleaned it up. It's in fantastic shape! I sold the LS1 intake and 853 heads in favor of a Fast 90 intake and drive by cable throttle body as well as a set of 243 heads. I am reusing the hot cam that came with the LS1 for now. bzrvGLDh.jpg QZwIAZQh.jpg I used new gaskets, seals, and ARP head bolts. It's 100% freshened up and ready to go! If anyone wants more details on the LS1 build sheet, just ask! Finally, I was able to stash away the Jeep and pull in the German to the American garage for a teardown: 9HZ36Jbh.jpg More to come!

The LS1 build up: 243 heads, dual springs, hardened pushrods Tick Performanece SNS Stage 2 cam Melling high flow oil pump All new gaskets, seals, etc ARP cam bolts, ARP head studs, ARP crank bolt Fast 92mm Intake PTM 92mm throttle body 42lb LS3 injectors Holley fuel rail Holley Terminator X engine management system This was as of a few months ago. I am now looking into a dry sump setup since so many LS owners have oiling issues. Some say an accumulator such as an Accusump and good pan baffling and trap doors will do the trick. Unfortunately, that just isn't the case if you seriously track the car. As of now, I am looking at a 2 or 3 stage dry sump pump from Nutter Racing in Vancouver, WA. I'd also have a mechanical tensioner with a Gilmer toothed belt pulley on the front of the 6 rip serpentine pulley. Some like to run the Gilmer drive off the crank but I am not looking to do that. My alternator will run off the opposite side of the water pump, low near the oil pan. The AC compressor is hopefully to be a factory F body type mounted in the factory position below the water pump outputs. I may have to do some custom plate work for mounting the AC tensioner. I'll definitely have to make a mount for the dry sump pump mount. I've been mocking up all of this in Solidworks CAD software and also designing a very early prototype of a 180 degree exhaust system to maintain a more high pitched and exotic sound to the car. As for the LS1 to Porsche G96 adapter, I bought it from Eric at Kit Car Chassis with a stage 2 Spec clutch. He was nice to work with but it took about 6 weeks for the adapter and one of the bolts does not line up with the transaxle mount. I'd probably go with the Stuttgart Muscle adapter if I were to do it again but Eric does include a starter which is a plus. Back of the LS1: qZwg0U0h.jpg Adapter kit 3aHW5qkh.jpg Adapter installed with 4L60e dished flex plate used for starter engagement FFY0J6eh.jpg SPEC Clutch which is a M96 996 variant, not a custom clutch BB6a3DDh.jpg Note that the flywheel is 2 piece. First piece bolts the small adapter and flexplate to the crank (shown previously). Then the larger flywheel is bolted to that piece and the clutch afterward. NAKpzMzl.jpg Assembled and ready to go LS1 to G96 transaxle mDDCOx7h.jpg

Since I knew I'd need to do something for hydraulic lines, I researched the factory P car lines and finally figured out the entire interior has to be removed for the clutch lines to be installed AND they're very expensive and hard to source. No thanks. I'll be using braided stainless 3AN lines with these custom adapters I designed and had machined. Pretty slick, they have the same flare and geometry as the P car lines for 996/997 and insert into the Master Cylinder. Then the 180 degree headers have gone through changes here and there. I think I finally decided on a front exit, toward the balancer. The early versions exited toward the transaxle. More to come tomorrow!

After finding a low profile motorcycle lift jack at Harbor Freight, I dropped the old M96 and Tiptronic out of the 996 donor. These engines are massive. I was expecting it after hearing the stories but this is a BIG setup. I can see how the LS1 would be lighter now that all of this is out. 9ZokCUCh.jpg Rm1iq2yh.jpg zU8PGGrh.jpg zDqrCy1h.jpg Fresh slate, ready for the initial LS1 mockup: 4z22Dv1h.jpg Referencing this picture again: I reversed the direction of the collectors to exit towards the rear of the car (balancer side). I've been doing a ton of research on 180 degree headers in a LS application. Most people do not like the sound with a crossover, which is shown below. I am leaning against it. Most of the best sounding 180 degree header designs are shorter with small or no mufflers. Take a look at the GT40 headers and you'll see what I mean. I also thought about using a muffler that has a dual in and dual out with an internal crossover but I doubt I'd like that after hearing the reviews on them. It will be a bit of a mix and match experimentation for the mufflers and final output after the collectors. I don't want it to be irritating or loud. I'll have V band clamps after the collectors to make swapping easy. I may have to make a temporary exhaust while I experiment with placement of the AC, alternator, and hopefully a dry sump setup. Shown above is all the components I've been managing and test fitting. A mechanical manually set tensioner with a Gilmer drive gear on the same pulley as the 6 rip serpentine belt, a 3 stage Aviaid dry sump pump, factory AC compressor, and factory alternator. I am likely going with a Nutter dry sump pump after talking with AC, the man that runs that small company out of Vancouver, WA. I will run 3 pickups out of a shallow pan but will likely design the headers to allow other pans as some fellow 911 LS swap guys have requested them. I will likely mount the dry sump pump on the same side as the water pump outputs and have it mounted high, off the cylinder head on that side. The motor mounts are directly bolted to the heads so I will have to manage that as well. I will also likely use a dedicated oil cooler with remote filter and a 3-5 gallon dry sump reservoir with a separate vent/catch can. Coleman Racing has a neat dry sump reservoir with built in cooler, filter, and oil level sight tube that I might try. The dry sump setup is a recent change so I'll have to tear down the LS1 for the new pan. I am still planning to use the Melling internal oil pump for pressure. This entire dry sump setup will cost less than half of most entry level kits.

Welcome! I've been following your build on the Swapped Porsche group on Facebook (at least I think that's where I recognize it from?).

About time u got around to this Looking foward to the updates and I really like the clutch fittings.

Awesome, love this kinda stuff.

keep us updated!!!

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Looking forward to how this turns out. I hope for the best and not an "Apollo 911" repeat!

Nice! Keep the pics coming! Mike

Thank you everyone, I'm glad to finally be able to post the progress and start go over solutions to the packaging issues. Yes, I am also on the Facebook Porsche Swaps group, that's where I get a lot of info from. That group has been a huge help and I'm really glad it's around. I am looking to avoid all oil starvation issues with the dry sump setup to avoid another Apollo 911. I'm hoping to position the LS1 in the car this weekend and start the process of getting the motor mount plates in position and mounted, get a plan together for the coolant lines, and start working on removing the AT brake pedal for the MT clutch/brake subassembly. All coolant, clutch, and misc lines will be AN fittings and higher quality braided lines, just like I did on my Jeep. It was definitely worth it in the end. I'll be using a Corvette LS3 accessory drive including water pump. I'll have to get clever with the water pump fittings and will take a similar route that Stuttgart Muscle recommends but with AN fittings threaded into the water pump outlets. I actually have nearly all the components to start the swap from AT to MT including CV axles, clutch/brake pedal assembly, shifter, shift boot, shift cables, and a few other bits. I also already have the Holley Terminator X kit waiting to be hooked up. I'll need to find a good source for key-on power if anyone has one to share for the swap. I also need to make a plan for the fuel return line since my LS1 is returnless. I used a Corvette regulator on the Jeep and might do that again and plug the existing line. I plan to also steal the oil pressure, oil temperature, and engine coolant temp sensors off the M96 and adapt them to the LS1. The early LS motors did not require oil pressure signal to the PCM to start and run, so I don't even need the OEM GM oil pressure sensor, just the P car unit. The pre-2001 996 cars are not CANBUS so they can be easily "tricked" into displaying the engine data to the dash and gauges by adopting the sensors to the LS1 like I've mentioned. I'll still use the LS1 sensors for engine coolant temperature and oil temperature so I can utilize the 3.5" LCD included in the Holley kit as a secondary set of gauges to rely on. I can also store and change tunes on the fly with this setup which will be very handy for more aggressive tunes for track use. The Holley PCM also calibrates itself and learns on its own which is a huge bonus and makes initial setup very easy. I've updated the last post that was reserved for updates with pics and info from the M96 removal and my dry sump plan as well.

What is your solution for: - AC - Powersteering?

Welcome GTX! You and I have shared some forums prevously! I was on JeepForum 10 years ago + and Pirate4x4. Good to see you keeping on with the builds.

Wow no more VARIOCAM ! What a shame.

Are you going to sell the M96? If so, what do you want for it? I'm not necessarily in need of one but it would be interesting to take one apart.

Check out this guys headers for sandrails for some ideas. he has a bunch of ls pics. https://www.facebook.com/hotheadheaders/

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AC will be the OEM GM Camaro pump unless I need more room. I have one in the garage, just need to bolt it on and start mock up. Sanden makes a mini AC compressor if I need smaller. The steering isn't terrible without the pump. Most people run a Toyota MR2 pump or some go with a GT3 pump. I am not sure which route I'll go but both are electric and I will likely take that route if I do decide to use power. Thank you! Small web-world I plan to not build anything else after this 996 for a while, I need a break. Yes, I have the M96, Tiptronic transaxle, and exhaust for sale. I have a local 996 owner interested in the M96 that should be picking it up this weekend. If he doesn't end up taking it, I'll send you a message. Hopefully his wife is okay with the purchase, that was the last piece of the puzzle.

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He does nice work! Thanks for the reference, I may need his help. I haven't decided if I'll fabricate the headers myself or not. I am definitely leaning towards having the tubing CNC bent.

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Puzzle complete gtx, I'll see you Saturday!

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Sounds good! I still need to disassemble from the transaxle and exhaust tomorrow morning.

Question, do you have any insight on how the car balance will be affected after the swap. You mention on an earlier post about tracking the car after done, I�m just wondering how the car will handle with the engine weight further back.

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I haven�t run an analysis of the two different setups. Ideally I�d like to compare the center of gravity of each engine but the flat six versus vee eight operation seems like a very cool comparison. From what others have said, they can�t feel the difference. As far as length is concerned, I don�t consider it to be as big of a factor as height. The M96 is about 14� from bottom of pan to the intake mounting plane. The LS1 is also about 14� from oil pan mounting plane to intake mounting plane but the heads extend slightly above the intake plane and the oil pan is below the mounting plane for itself. This is where the mounting height and oil pan clearance really play a large role. Either way, the LS1s center of gravity will be higher than the M96. I�d guess it�s about 2� higher looking at the two designs. The difference comes in weight. The LS1 is supposedly 100 pounds lighter but that�s also dependent on engine setup and exhaust design. The factory 996 exhaust is not lightweight but also not extremely heavy. I straddled the entire exhaust in a front squat position, I�d say it weighs about 100lbs. I also picked up the M96 on one side, so it�s not THAT heavy. Having said that, the LS stuff seems a bit lighter which will bring it a little closer to the same overall center of gravity, in my opinion. This topic has gotten a lot attention in other posts and some purists, bless their hearts, want to claim the M96 is lighter and has a significantly lower center of gravity. This is without any facts or analysis, 100% hubris driven. I�m not interested in that and I don�t care either way. I just know any difference in center of gravity and mounting length is negligible to me and most others in the interest of cost to fun factor. Having said that, I didn�t weigh the car or M96 prior to starting the swap because I am more interested in enjoying the car with its new American heart.

Here�s the thread where the hubris misleads the poster away from the truth...ironic the user name for the purist. I get that people love their cars and some love the M96, but that should never cloud the truth. https://www.renntech.org/topic/51222...-ls-swap-talk/ Also, mounting the accessories on the LS at the same level of the oil pan would help quite a bit. If I use a low profile dry sump pan, I can possibly get the center of gravity much closer to the M96...

Curious to see how you plan on doing your gauges. Doing a similar swap myself and looking at all options from stock to full digital display.

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Do you have a build here? Always fun to check out other swaps. I�m planning to reuse the factory gauges. I have no interest in replacing them. I want it to look as factory as possible. I pulled the original M96 sensors off the engine prior to selling it for oil temperature/level, oil pressure, and coolant temp.

I am of the opinion that we should do with our car what we want, i am not a purist at all. Reason for my handling question is because I do track my 996, and it handles very nicely. I am playing with the idea of buying a roller and do what you are doing and have it as a dedicated track car, but I am concern on how moving the car�s center of gravity further back will affect the handling. The LS may be lighter but by been longer it places it�s weight further back than the m96, I�m just wondering what this will do to the car. Wonder if putting a few bags of sand in the front will bring the balance back.

I purchased my adaptor kit (3 kits to count now) from Eric.. he does top notch work. I'm in the process of doing my swap as well but not the ls platform I went even more sinful then you and doing an odd ball engine(build is on here) love how your really thinking out the exhaust. I just finished making my headers(super shorties) and now onto the X-pipe and routing. I went with dynomax bullets after watching to many videos and reading to much from the Ferrari forum. you might want to check out Scienceofsound mufflers as well. They are pricy but seem to have some unique designs. For me I think the dynomax will get me there. Cant wait to hear what sound you develop. I am planning on swapping out my dash and will be redoing all my gauges. I will be using Glowshift gauges. I love the look and I can get them to match my sexy green paint job lol. Just an FYI incase you haven't found the ones you want yet.

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I can see how my response looked aimed at you but I was not at all! Sorry about that, I didn't meant to imply anything negative towards you. The center of gravity is different for the LS1 compared to the M96 for sure but there are advantages to both. The M96 is wider, meaning more weight outside the roll axis of the car creating a longer lever arm when cornering and maneuvering. When I used to setup RC cars, I'd completely strip down the car and sometimes make a completely custom chassis layout. I'd drill new holes for the mounting locations of all the components and move them towards the center-line of the chassis. This increased the handling characteristics dramatically. I also would split up the weight as evenly as possible from side to side and front to back. After doing this a few times I was able to achieve a better balance and handling than even brand new cars with my 2-3 year old car. The M96 has a lower center of gravity but the weight is more towards the outside of that center when looking at the engine from the side. Even with the LS being slightly longer, the argument can still be made that the LS1 can be equal in performance as far as placement and weight bias. Having the weight closer to center-line is a large advantage but I feel the slightly longer LS1 assembly plus the slightly higher mounting height of the center of gravity defeat any advantage. I think this is why I haven't heard of a difference felt by others that have LS swapped their P car. It's a very different design but I think people assume too many things are advantages about the flat six design and aren't really accounting for all the factors. Just my two cents. I've actually read your build and have been following along! I will definitely be looking at the Scienceofsound mufflers and probably asking you more questions. I like how the Ferrari engines sound, they seem to know how to put the magic in the air. If you have any interesting threads you've read that would help, please share! Dynomax has been great in the offroad world so I don't think you'll have any issues there. I will keep Glowshift in mind. I actually like the way the car looks and feels at the moment but that could change! I'm planning to use Holley EFI dash for my Jeep after this is over so I can appreciate the digital gauges and customized layout. It might help to be able to see more sensors and keep an eye on things.

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I have read sooo much over the last few months on exhaust systems and sorry but I have not saved any of it other then MY INTRERPRETATION in my head. I say that in caps cuz everybody.. and there mom has an opinion on this lol for me the take away was smallest diameter mufflers and a must have X pipe to the shortest exhaust you can muster. But and this is a big one, my motor fires differently then an ls1. I think you on the right track doing the 180 degree headers. there is some sick ls1 sounds on youtube. check out that 8-1 exhaust video on my thread or on youtube.. that made me teary eyed lol Sorry I thought I read something about the swapping out gauges in your thread.. I'm a thread skimmer lol

I've thought about it as my plan C if I end up needting to do something.. I'd be going for a GM, LGW V6,, Probably the turbo out of a CT6, smaller dimensions than the LS,, weight should be close to the 996(ish) with another 60+ HP.. Pre-retune 2016–2019 Cadillac CT6 404 hp (301 kW; 410 PS) @ 5700 RPM400 lb⋅ft (542 N⋅m) @ 2500-5100 RPM dyno chart

I think a Cayman with an LS swap would make a great track toy!

Will this be a track only car? I was messing around with a dry sump tank in my swapped 996 and the only logical place to put it would be the front trunk. Thats roughly 30+ feet of -16/-20 line or bended hard line. You give any thought where you would mount the tank?

There are some tanks that are thin and tall, if you havent seen them, like about 6" in diameter and 2 1/2 feet tall.. They fit Midget race cars.. OR Isn't there a gt/turbo exhaust that doesn't climb up in to the fenders, if you could clear the right muffler area a stock early model tank would fit there.. Cool-Yet retro.

Did you have to cut the frame to fit the engine?

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The LV3 4.3 v6 would be interesting since it's so small and light, however it's only rated at 300hp and I can't find any resource about pumping up the power. Did you ever consider this engine? Reason is you could leverage on the LS platform for conversion kits. (LV3 is a 6 cylinder LS engine, so an LS engine but shorter. Would the LFX fit? It seems very tall? (Also different bellhousing than LS) Edit: Someone has measured the LFX, https://oppositelock.kinja.com/engin...ons-1760110530 LS measurements, https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...imensions.html

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you turbo any motor I stuffed 28� under my rear hood. Not sure how tall the LS is but going a non porsche v6 gives sooo much room in the engine bay. From bottom of oil pan to top of supercharger.. 28�

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Oh yea,,its a interesting engine for several purposes. I just like the all in package of the Caddy motor.. I have looked at the 4.3 for my jeep, a FI setup on it would make it quite a good driving rig..

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There is no car intake for that engine right? Only the tall truck ones? Surprised the aftermarket hasnt responded more, seems like a perfect fit where LS is too much.

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Well my old jeep has lots of vertical room so I wasn't too worried,, It wouldn't be too hard to do a sheet metal intake for it.. Wonder if you could cut down a V8 one? Not many folks playing with them.. Yet..

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Here is some dynos (93 gas): E85: So about the same top power as a 3.4 but with more torque and broader power band (a 3.4 seems to have about 255whp). Curious what would happen if the revlimiter was lifted 500-1000 RPM, torque would probably skydive but would make it easier to stay in the meat. Would the LS engine break from this? Or how do you make an LS survive 6500 rpm? Reason for the engine would be that I think you could get away without cutting the frame? (It's also lighter making it way lighter than M96) There are plenty of camshafts for the 5.3 V8s ( https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...#configuration ) Maybe regrind the V6 camshaft to these specs? Reason for doing all this would be not to cut into your frame and if you don't have the need for >400hp and torque like an oil tanker. Another "cheap" option would be the modern Escalade 6.2L engine with car intake.

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I've seen no aftermarket for these motors. I've been watching for a while and thought there would be something by now. Not cutting the crossmember is a big plus. Pushing the weight forward is nice too. Reground cam would be a great place to start, but you're in uncharted territory. LT1 spec? The lv3 has torque to spare. Also, I think the lv3 intake is considerably taller than a lsx variant. Measurements would be needed to confirm fitment.

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Seems to be some "hot" L83 cams that are not inteded for trucks, maybe that is a good start. I found specs on the height of the engine from GM, it's a few inches taller than the car engines due to the manifold. It seems like having some extra clearance would make this swap much easier. Note that I haven't done a M96->LS swap so I don't know where it would benefit, but it seems like a shorter engine would be a plus. LV3: The V8 version: LS1 (different source) Seems like car engines are ~27" tall and truck engines are ~30 tall. The v6 is ~3 inch shorter. The LS1 dimensions are from a different source so the measuring method might differ.

Good information .Having done the ls swap :. The 3 inch height increase is a show stopper .In order to clear the suspension crossmember the ls6 has less than a inch clearance between the intake manifold and the body ..One could make a new suspension cross member but ground clearance would be really bad .So the challenge is a shorter intake solution-if one wanted to really do it right probably look at individual throttle bodies .The shorter length is a plus -no body cutting -stock trunk latch and could probably do a intake box similar to the m96 .

I didn't realize this would spark such a lengthy discussion! FWIW, My LS1 with the F body pan is 25" from bottom of pan to top of intake. Shorter pans are available such as the "batwing" early Corvette pan shown at approximately 22" for the same measurement. Hence why I am finding the shallowest pan possible to run my exhaust underneath. I can run a shallow dry sump pan or a wet sump "front" sump pan which would be physically to the rear of the car. I am leaning towards this option but haven't fully abandoned the dry sump setup. I may just do a dry sump later after I see issues with the wet sump. Plenty of space to mount everything but it would take time and be more initial investment than I wanted. I have other plans following this build so I don't want to spend too much of either right in the middle of it. I am focusing on exhaust and initial clean setup. I found an original Corvette ac compressor mount for my small F body compressor. Hoping I don't have to change the clutch and it aligns correctly. ICT low alternator mount worked well. Still pushing forward with the build, just nothing good enough to take pictures for. I will probably have a real update in two weeks or so. I want to have the car running or at least cranking around New Years. I'll probably cut the rear crossmember out next weekend, mount the LS1, and start plumbing. This is a daily driver build that will see occasional but sometimes vigorous track time and my needs or the plan may change as I see fit. Buckle up if you wanted something concrete

A dry sump pan ,, would buy back a lot, it only has to allow the crank to turn.. Texas speed could probably turn a 6cyl cam to match their well developed LS cams.. I do think often that the 4.3 with a turbo should be A-mazing,, the 5.3 V8 will do north of 900HP stock. So the 4.3 oughta be pretty solid at about 550.. and a 7500 rpm redline,, since that's what the stock motor has.. And I can buy most of the parts cheaper since there are dirt track sources for them.. The LS engines with minimal attention are quite capable of 8500 rpm.. Iffn ya have a reason..

Not being able to use the stock intake would be a deal breaker. An accurate measurement on the lv3 from the crank center line to the top of the intake would be helpful.

Let's try to keep this on track Plenty of other threads for swap questions to the LV3 or other setups. I'm more than happy to answer any questions pertaining to my swap though! As of right now I'm going with a Canton front sump pan and GM pickup. I'll likely add an Accusump and a dedicated oil pressure idiot light and gauge to the dash before any track events. This Canton pan has trap doors and baffles which make it the ideal wet sump setup for our LS engines of this application IMO. In a reversed rear engine configuration, this becomes a rear sump. It also has a very shallow portion ahead of the sump that will allow plenty of space for my exhaust tubes to route underneath the pan but not hang below the sump. Win-win. It could also be converted to a dry sump setup later if needed. Not sure which oil filter block I'll be using. I do plan to have a remote filter and oil cooler. Pan- https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...drift-pan.html LS oil pan stud kit- https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...unting-gm-ls1/ As for power steering, I have been figuring out the power steering lines and fittings situation. I'd like to use a Mini Cooper electric pump and remove reservoir. Hopefully I'll find space to mount it in the engine compartment compared to the frunk. We'll see. I designed a couple of adapters for the fittings to reuse the P car line fittings and make it a bolt on adapter to 6AN and 8AN for simplicity. Obtained a LS3 Corvette water pump and tensioner. 996 water temp sensor will be threaded into the LS3 extra port, M16x1.5. I'll need a male M16x1.5 to female M14x1.5 but it threads right in place. No need to tap the cylinder head on the LS1. The oil pressure sensor is the same deal, same threads, same adapter needed. I used the ICT Corvette low alternator mount with truck alternator and obtained an early Corvette AC pump instead of swapping clutch parts. That should complete the accessories. I'll be buttoning up the last of it and should be able to cut the body for clearance and slap the LS1 in place soon. I just need to plan out the 996 oil level and temp sensor. Coolant system will have custom 20AN adapters made for the 996 hard lines. I didn't want to cut the factory hard lines but I might have to, unfortunately. All lines will be AN type for simplicity, reliability, and ease of maintenance. Tight fit, LS1 oil pressure sensor with P car sensor that will replace it. Not sure if I'll have enough space once the adapter comes in. bl54QJEh.jpg F body AC Compressor (only the clutch is different for Corvette) and the Corvette bracket that bolted right up the LS1. This is the smallest OEM LS AC package I could find. T0CDIPHh.jpg Belt routed, just awaiting final bolt-together of the AC compressor, tidy up the injector mounts, and then we're ready to cut the 996 body to mount the LS1 and start plumbing. NyfHnNlh.jpg

Are you using Corvette or Camaro accessory spacing? You said a F-body AC but Crovette waterpump? Wouldn't the AC pulley sit outside the belt then? For the oil level, can't you just replace that with a resistor? Or do you want actual level? Would a sandwich plate work work for oil temp? Also wouldn't an LS6 intake be cheaper? Awesome thread! Apologize for all the questions

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It's all Corvette spacing. The F body clutch is different, it's what I have here now. My Corvette pump is on the way, a buddy should have it here by the weekend I think. It was in the picture for looks I've heard of the resistor trick with the level sensor - does that work??? I need to research it more. I believe it's a 26 ohm resistor. Not sure about the sandwhich plate but it's all built into 1 sensor. LS6 intakes are cheaper than FAST but also have smaller intake opening at 75mm. I wanted bigger with better flow at 92mm and got the intake and DBC throttle body for less than a new LS6 intake and matching DBC TB.

New AC compressor is on and looks like it will work. Still need a belt and to verify tensioner and bracket is correct. Found out my C2 is actually metallic GREEN not black. Someone painted it at one point to black and did a poor job on the paint work. I like the 2B4 paint code color so I may go with that in the end when I respray. I removed the F Body Camaro LS1 oil pan and installed a Canton LS1 front sump road race pan with baffles and trap doors. I'll likely add an oil cooler when I start the remote filter plumbing. So far this pan is looking great and I think it will be perfect. AC compressor and pan to show how it all fits together: apj2W1Xh.jpg LS1 with motor mounts, nearly ready to go in. Waiting on some conversion pieces for the 20AN water pump fittings, metric fitting adapters, and a few other small pieces. Stuttgart Muscle motor mounts added as well. Super easy to install these mounts and the instructions were top notch. IjTDmWlh.jpg Motor mount base plate, F for front with arrow fU4xT9bh.jpg Rough body cut made. Two more small cuts and then some edge clean up and it will be ready for it's new heart 6PUd3NRh.jpg F Body Pan vs Canton front sump pan kyjjOCEh.jpg agoeyIgh.jpg k0HULczh.jpg Trap doors and baffling Ve643yph.jpg Still left to figure out: P car oil level/temp sensor Holley fuel injector rail mount plates are wrong AC belt and bracket/idler/tensioner Heater hose hookup plan Steering line caps (for now) P car O2 sensor hookups needed? Tachometer LS 24x to 58x pulse conversion Finalize 180 degree headers Convert pedals from AT to MT Mount clutch master cylinder and reservoir Plan and order clutch lines Find P car ignition on hot wire Find P car neutral safety switch and bypass or deactivate Lots more I haven't thought of But the list is getting smaller!

Suggestion,, take a look at the AC pump off a Honda FIT, its really tucked in and is fairly small. Has similar mounting flange,, might save room?

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Thank you for the suggestion but that's not really worth the trouble. This is already here, it's done, and it works well as a factory combination.

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Good to know,, the item that most general LS swaps fight is the AC pump,, usually messes up either the Motor mount or headers..

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Did it work with your AC? So you are using an F body clutch and a LS1 AC compressor? Did the belt align properly?

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Yes, factory Corvette compressor and clutch. It was not much more to buy a used compressor off eBay than to buy used clutch parts and try to do the swap. Belt aligns perfectly because it is an early Corvette compressor (1998 year) and early Corvette bracket, pulley, and tensioner (1997 year). I spent less on all the new AC items so far than a Dirty Dingo bracket kit. The adapter for the LS AC compressor fittings is $50 and uses generic AC couplers. I will just make new AC lines that adapt to the Porsche firewall connections. I actually used to design all of these connections for a very popular truck manufacturing company that's headquartered in the PNW.

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Helps being an AC expert when you do an engine swap with AC So why did you have to have an early compressor? Wouldn't a later AC work? Sounds like you got a stock AC at stock location using stock bracket? Also the whole thing with the F-body AC, was that just because it came with that? thanks!

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I don't know about expert but some experience helps! Hah! Early compressor is smallest of all LS factory systems. Yes, it's factory Corvette compressor, mount, idler, and tensioner. 100% bolt on. Later AC would work if you have all the mounts and compressor but early LS1 block may need a hole drilled and tapped or some other modifications to use later LS compressors. Yes, the LS1 I have is from an F Body and it came with the compressor and bracket but I'll be selling those along with a number of other components I won't be using.

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So you got a camaro LS1? And you used the ICT bracket for alternator and early corvette stuff for AC? (Is the Camaro alternator same as corvette alternator? ) I assume you got a new damper? It's stuff like this that makes future swaps easier!!!

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Yes, early LS1. Needs LS6 PCV update which I have. Corvette spacing ICT alternator bracket, yup. Early LS1 AC compressor, idler, tensioner, and bracket - all ebay specials. Alternator is same between truck/camaro/corvette and only the bracket mounting depths change. I used a truck alternator. Dampener is LS3 factory dampener, ACDelco 12560115 Water pump is Corvette LS3 ACDelco 251-728 WP Tensioner is ACDelco 12569301 Smaller oil pressure sensor is 12616646 Oil Pressure Sensor Switch D1846A GM Performance Parts 12498544 Head Gaskets ARP water pump bolts, head bolts, etc. Canton front sump pan and studs GM GTO oil pan pickup LS3 injectors Holley 534-210 LS Hi-Flow EFI Fuel Rail Corvette fuel regulator 6AN everything for fuel 20AN everything for coolant 12AN everything for heater hoses FAST 92mm intake 92mm DBC throttle body LS6 PCV conversion ported Melling high flow oil pump Tick Performance SNS cam, 7.4" pushrods, double springs 243 heads, stock for now (will port later) Terminator X engine management, wideband O2 I think that's the total LS1 build thus far...lots of parts were "nice to have" and not a necessity. Car intake is required. Corvette accessories required if you don't want to cut into the latch area. Still need to work out the throttle cable modification. Power steering will go away for now until I feel like installing an electric pump in the front trunk. Still a few parts to order for coolant tank conversion to run it back into the main coolant lines. I am about to chop the coolant hard lines and weld on the 20AN fittings. I'll be plumbing the fuel system and remaining coolant and heater hoses in the next two weeks. After that it's just fitting the LS1 in place, connecting hoses and running the power to the Terminator X and all the small things that go with that phase. Hoping to crank it over before the new year but depends on how quickly I can fab a temporary exhaust.

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​​​​​​Awesome! Thank you. Stuttgart muscle sells a pedal kit to easily convert to dbw, https://stuttgartmuscle.com/products...or-pedal-mount i guess you need a different tb then... I ask Stuttgart about ps pump he said the following: " Electric power steering in the front is the easiest solution. I recommend an Opel Astra H power steering pump, it is the same as the Porsche Motorsports pump, but much cheaper. We plan on selling brackets soon." Maybe it's the same pump. Can you pass inspection with the TerminatorX? Or you don't have that problem where you live?

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The SM pedal kit is a 3D printed adapter to run a Corvette DBW pedal, yes, but it does not convert the car to DBW. You still need the DBW wiring harness, throttle body, and a compatible PCM. Since my car was DBC already I left it that way. Cheaper too. There�s a few electric pumps that will work with these conversions. MR2, Mini Cooper, GT3 cup, etc. I don�t have inspections to worry about but the LS3 erod package takes care of that for people that need more substantial emissions equipment.

Just wanted to say great thread, lots of info. Thank you and I look forward to continued posts.

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Just saw your PM Sam, I responded I'm glad you're enjoying the info I'm hoping to help people with understanding how easy these swaps can be. For the record - there is NO REASON to use Renegade Hybrids kits. I highly recommend using Stuttgart Muscle or Eric at A&E Machining for your adapter, clutch, etc. and Stuttgart Muscle again for all other pieces and info. I don't personally like how he accomplished the cooling system as I'm not a fan of brass for oiling and cooling applications but to each his own. I have a ton of parts in my shop and I'm trying to wrap up the 180 degree header design ASAP so I can have the tubes quoted for CNC bending. Fuel and cooling system including heater hoses should be wrapped up by next weekend.

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Could you elaborate a little on the 180 degree header. Is the difference that "mix" pulses between the two banks? As opposed to a typical setup where each side is merged? Will this make the LS sound like a Ferrari? (That would be great).

180 degree headers are nearly finished with design, waiting for quotes and doing a few more checks with the actual car and LS1 to ensure fitment. Under-pan tube connection will either be a flange or a spring retainer setup. Leaning toward spring retainers for space limitations and easy of removal.

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It's a lot to explain - google 180 degree headers and start reading. 180 degrees refers to crankshaft spacing per cylinder. Most engines, like the LS, are 90 degrees apart to minimize vibrations. This exhaust changes the pulses to 180 degree apart, hence the name.

That is going to sound amazing!! Cant wait to hear it.

Question, are you able to keep all the pipes the same length with this setup?

Awesome! So if I get this right? On a normal exhaust you get: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 L-R-L-R-R-L-R-L So cylinder 2 and 6 or not 180 apart. You cross over cylinder 3,4,5,6: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 L-R-L-R-L-R-L-R ​

Thank you everyone. Yes, somewhat equal length tubes. Still working on making them all within 1". Yes, crossover 3456 to other bank.

The last update on had on the car itself involved mounting the water pump. To finish it out, I mounted a 20AN swivel for the water neck and converted both heater hoses to 12AN for simplicity. Some people cap these and route lines over the 996 coolant tubes but I am not a fan of that method. To each his own. I also removed the stamped tube with a couple smacks with a deadblow and pressed in a 20AN male piece from CBM Motorsports. Very nice piece, as is the 20AN swivel (amazon special). In the pics, the 20AN CBM piece is not pressed in yet, I had to take .010" off the diameter and I also used 609 Loctite meant for press fits for a good final seal and peace of mind. I also used ARP hardware as the pump has to come off any time the engine needs dropped since the motor mount plates attach to the heads and the WP is in the way of two bolts. I also took a M16 to 1/8 NPT adapter and drilled and tapped the NPT side to M14 for the sensors. I believe the pitch is 1.5, but I can't recall exactly. I used the port on the side of the water pump for this adapter. This is for the Porsche coolant sensor. I retained all Porsche sensors and all GM sensors and will run both redundantly. I am still working on the 996 oil level/temp sensor, that's the last one to be used. I believe I can swap out the looooong 996 dual use temp/level sensor for the same sensor used on the coolant as the plugs are the same. All the AN fittings are not necessary if you want more of a budget coolant setup. I just don't like spring clamps and some of the other methods. It's all preference. Some pics of the water pump: um0BDfMl.jpg sjUAesEl.jpg csnUPeUl.jpg Vi84Hlcl.jpg The heater hoses attach underneath the car to these 7/8" lines. More on how I'm converting these later, I am still getting those fittings made. They're designed and ready for lathe work but I haven't gotten to it yet. UUVBJy0l.jpg Left side coolant line, or driver's side and where I cut it for the AN20 fitting (orange mark) PlB8qCil.jpg Right side or driver's side cut mark, just before it bent. I am using a 45 degree fitting on this side so I wanted it tight to the body. Again, this is preference, and a simple bead roller and some typical coolant hoses could be made to work here - but will look gross to me haha! Again, preference. 77swefhl.jpg Every single line has a redundancy of clamps holding them in place under the car. Never seen so many line clamps but they are very well done. I yanked the lines out and cut them. I am hoping to weld them this week so I can finish out the last part of the build! The pup wouldn't move so here's my GSD in all her glory. Love this dog! iiYRMNgl.jpg

Very nice! What is your thoughts about rubber vs AN and steel braided hoses? After doing a bunch of AN and steel braided I started to appreciate the simplicity of rubber hoses. I know that some sensors doesn't work with fuel/oil, they will degrade or something over time. Also the ohm range for the oil and coolant might differ. How is the porsche oil temp being used? There is no gauge for it?

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My GSD is 7 now, and is the most calm, obedient dog ever. My friends bring their puppies over in hopes that she will rub off on their behavior! Great build brother! Good to see that Jeep lifestyle come over to the Porsche world. It's crazy how many ideas from all my jeeps have steered me in my mods on a totally different vehicle platform.

The LS1 still need the LS6 PCV update. This is about $100 and well worth it. Much better system, especially with aftermarket valve covers. I still need a catch can but overall this is much better. In order to convert an early LS1, you have to knock down one of the bosses inside the valley. I had to mask the entire valley and it took a while. This mostly worked! haha eaKLSN9l.jpg fVN9ndNl.jpg ddh1SnNl.jpg Done. LS6 PCV on an early LS1. kmr4spMl.jpg Unfortunately, this also meant the LS1 steam port lines would not work now. They were already smashed slightly with the Fast 92 intake. So, more AN lines! I bought this kit off eBay specifically for the Fast intakes and it worked well. I think the accessories on my LS1 are worth more than the LS1 itself... Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-102-92...K/132107718315 In these pics you'll also see I made some aluminum fuel rail brackets to hold the LS3 injectors to the Holley rail and Fast intake. These did not exist until I designed them and it was a pain to make it work. Holley claimed the brackets were LS3 to Fast compatible but that is not true at all. Oh well. You'll also see the Holley Terminator X fuel injector harness since I started wiring. I also final plumbed the rest of the fuel system on the engine with the crossover tubes, fuel pressure gauge, and some other goodies. I am using a Lokar LS1 bracket and cable, more on that later. I used all new hardware too since I was missing bolts. fGvTDBUl.jpg pUfjb1Al.jpg I7bS9scl.jpg rWPlPm5l.jpg i4N11bWl.jpg

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Thank you! Rubber degrades over time. I'll never use unshield fuel hose, but I think coolant hoses are fine within reason. I still want them shielded on a car like this, just preference. Porsche temp sensor for oil is also the level sensor on these cars. I believe it's just a dash feature. Oil temp is a gauge itself, IIRC. The coolant temp sensor is the same, on a gauge, IIRC. I will do more research on the sensors but not necessary to start and drive right now. That's good to hear! My GSD is just over 2 and finally calming down. She's a sweetheart but still very hyper. Thanks for the kind words - I am surprised at how many Jeep-centric behaviors have been useful on this build. I certainly am appreciative of the ground clearance on a Jeep right now!

I mounted a short version of the LS oil pressure sensor to a tower I got off ebay. The sensor is part number 12616646 and has the same M16x1.5 thread as the tall unit. The 996 sensor is M14x1.5 so I had to drill and tap in the side of the tower. Tower link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/29336551218...m=293365512189 Sensor Link: Amazon Amazon 3oD5Ppsl.jpg Onto the Tiptronic to manual conversion... Here's the fittings I designed to convert the entire system to 3AN. I still need to make 2 more fittings, but they're in the hopper now for lathe work. I'm using 3AN braided PTFE line from Pegasus. Clutch master to 3AN: DMi73WXl.jpg I grabbed a used brake master cylinder from a 6MT car off ebay for $30 and yanked off the reservoir. Did the same to the master cylinder that was still in the car after sucking out the brake fluid to avoid a mess. The difference in reservoirs is the 6MT has this port drilled with a push to connect fitting for 8mm (or 5/16") push-in style plastic line. I bought the line off ebay for cheap and designed a new version with 3AN on the side. I'll take more pics of these fittings later on. MgEj3CQl.jpg Added the clutch pedal. This was kind of a pain in the ***. You do NOT need to take the dash apart, don't let the Porsche gurus lie to you! hah! There's a bolt that holds in the brake pedal. You'll need to remove the 10mm nut on one side and then turn the head head of the bolt CCW because there are threads right after the hex head that hold in the other side of the assembly. No idea why they did this but it's suuuuuper fun laying upside down for a while to do this. Everything bolts up easily. You'll need M6 bolts for the master cylinder to mount (2 at 40mm long) and some M6 nuts (4 with flange) for the pedal to finish mounting. I bought the pedal off ebay for pretty cheap with the master attached. foTnJ4Hl.jpg dB1WFANl.jpg Next is the fuel system. No matter what 996 you have, you'll want to read this page and the DIY no cutting required FAQ listed there: https://stuttgartmuscle.com/pages/fuel-system Since mine is a return style, I followed this guide (listed in above link): https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...999-2001.pdf?1 996 fuel filter vs Corvette filter and regulator combo. zxTwm5wl.jpg Sorry for the picture quality, I have about 14" to work with including my body under the car and it's a challenge to get a good pic of this whole setup. Easy to do though! Man, I need a lift.... Corvette regulator/filter takes place of the 996 filter IJXOzxpl.jpg WeFxzyTl.jpg

As for the throttle pedal, since I'm DBC I'm reusing the 996 pedal BUT I'm not using this funky cantilever deal for the actual cable that runs to the throttle body. There's a TPS sensor that runs off another cable so that must stay. I believe it also helps run the cruise control, so I'll want that. dISpuisl.jpg I'm using the Lokar LS1 throttle cable mount and 120" throttle cable. Links below- This cable kit is for a Ford, you just take off the carb linkage and add a cable end. Easy. Amazon Amazon Brackets for intake: Amazon Amazon I'm mounting the clevis end to the 996 pedal using a single shear bolt that I'll likely epoxy into place. More info on this when I finalize it, but that's the plan. Orange mark is where the bolt should be. The throw on the 92mm DBC throttle body is about 1.8" so the travel at the pedal needs to be between 1.8 and 2.0 inches BUT I want it to bottom out at the same time I reach WOT to make sure I am not putting the cable into too much tension. WVGm5y1l.jpg I'm shoving both the braided clutch line and throttle cable through the same pass-through hole as the transaxle shift cable and e-brake cable. It's getting crowded but I have a plan to make it all fit nice and snug. BFpdVHhl.jpg I believe this gets the thread up to date - hoping to have another next weekend. Thanks to all that watch the progress!

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I don't have an oil temp gauge in my 996. Maybe you can skip it if it doesn't go anywhere Save you some trouble. EDIT: I think the oil temp is only used for Variocam operation.

Great progress and your attention to the details is first class . I started with the corvette fuel filter/ regulator and had ended up replacing it with a fuel pressure regulator . The issue was the corvette regulator was holding 70 psi .In fact tried 3 different filter/regulators all the same result .My hypothesis is that the Porsche fuel return has a checkvalve that was creating some backpressure .Maybe my situation is unique but something to check as you get farther along .

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Thank you I'll have to look at the gauge closely to check for this issue! Thanks for the heads up.

Great idea with the oil pressure switch. I am going to do virtually the same thing. I am assuming you are using the factory cluster? Have you sorted out where your electrical connections will tie in? From my understanding the lines are green and red and green and white. Haven’t had time to find the best location to get those two wires.

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I just saw this - I am not sure where I'll tie in yet! I've had a few people give me advice on it and it's all similar: just use ignition for the 12v constant source. The electrics are next and I need to find the 996.1 wiring pinout diagram for the engine harness connectors that are in the engine bay. I was going to use the M96 harness that I snagged but I am only using two sensors and it feels like a waste. I'd like to give it to the guy that bought my M96 so he can use it for build, if I can. Posting another update in a few min...

Finally more updates. Been very busy but can focus on the 996 again now. Welded the coolant tubes to the 20an bungs. I haven't welded aluminum in a couple years so I used the TIG at work. Ugly, but sealed and good to go. 2H6M2oMl.jpg I mentioned swapping the brake master cylinder reservoir and this fitting is the key. Instead of using a separate reservoir, I wanted to tie into the factory Porsche reservoir and share the fluid. It's a push to connect type fitting, 8mm diameter and .800" long IIRC. I designed this 3AN conversion fitting and asked one of my guys to turn it on the lathe. They take only about 90 min to make one and I take....not 90 minutes. Maybe 9 hours? Hah! 17-4 SS and worked beautifully 9pZgnugl.jpg Plumbed with SS braided PTFE hose and fittings from Pegasus Racing. Also used a bulkhead fitting to pass it through the firewall. I'll grab more pics of all the clutch work but essentially the clutch master is remote from the reservoir and is mounted with the fluid input exposed through the second firewall where the pedals are mounted. uRiPaQhl.jpg This is another fitting from Pegasus Racing. It's designed for the fuel systems and brake systems but it's the same flare as the other systems. I had to ask one of my machinists to turn back the hex because it wouldn't seat the flare in stock length. M12x1.0 thread for this, into the factory 996 clutch slave cylinder. Link to fitting: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5935 Z4qyNCyl.jpg The plan for the throttle cable...this is nearly complete. I drilled, tapped, and epoxied this 10-32 1.5" long set screw into the pedal for a single shear mount. More on this later when I wrap it up. xPfr1Nwl.jpg Last, but most importantly, I mounted the LS1 for the first time in the 996. Big milestone considering all the work that had to be done just to get it here. Converting the car to 6MT was the hardest part to figure out but I believe we're there. I'm sure I'll be chasing a few of the Porsche chimes and electrical errors for a little while but I can start driving it as soon as I route a few more lines and get the electrics configured. I need to finish up a few details with the fuel lines, final cut the clutch line length, route all of these lines to their final placement in the engine bay, then drop the motor and send off a few of these aluminum pieces to anodizing while I cut back a few more pieces of body panels. Right now, the water pump just barely won't squeeze in there. I also need to drop the pan, install the ICT double bolt oil pickup clamp, and inspect the bottom end one last time. I am also hoping to order the exhaust headers in the next two weeks once I design the 996 engine bay in CAD and verify all the fitment. I'll also design the muffler hangers and finish the remaining exhaust components very soon too. Quick note: The FAST 92 intake tilts UP more than a LS6 or other GM intake. Therefore I have to cut into the trunk/spoiler. The actuated wing will be disabled until I can figure out another method to mount the motor and lines. Anyway, the LS1 is mounted! rBspR6cl.jpg oQ9deTZl.jpg Close fitment, the OEM crossmember will go right behind the adapter... uFligchl.jpg

"Quick note: The FAST 92 intake tilts UP more than a LS6 or other GM intake. Therefore I have to cut into the trunk/spoiler. The actuated wing will be disabled until I can figure out another method to mount the motor and lines." Great build! As long as you're doing all this why not fabricate an engine lid in the style of the old "Tea Tray" or Whale-tail ? They stuffed some huge intercoolers under those things - I'm sure something similar would give you plenty of room for your intake. Good luck !

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Thanks!! I like ducktails a lot, so that's definitely an option. Any suggestions on brands or manufacturers?

Ducktail is a great idea .With some creative throttle body plumbing might be able to keep the trunk latch .A few comments on the wiring ….The A/C signal from the climate control to the DME is a 12 volt very weak pwm signal .I had to build a booster to trigger the gm ecm for ac .Don't know if you will need a VSS signal but if you do and it has to look like a gm signal a 1 meg pullup resistor and 1uf capacitor will work .The Porsche engine harness is really not needed .The water temp connector and the purge valve connector are .The ac system can be functional without the dme using the climate control module .and running thru the gm ecm .Took some time to figure it out but finally got it ..

Not a duck tail (though they're nice, they won't give you more room in the engine bay. This is the "Tea Tray" - they were used on the 930 Turbo's to house the inter-cooler. https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...66&action=view

I'll swap you my LS6 for your FAST 92. LOL!!!

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This is great to know, thank you! I will document the AC setup process and reference this. I'll probably ask you a few more questions too! thanks for the video, I saw those. Not exactly my style but it would solve the issue for sure. haha I bet you would!

Whew. Been plowing through the little stuff on the 996 LS1 swap. Had to drop the engine and route all the wiring, clean up some little stuff, and adapt the Porsche vacuum and vent lines to barbs. It takes a while to get all that wrapped up but the end product is well worth it. I don't want to worry about lines coming off during a track day or autocross event after I get everything tidied up. ji3DlBGl.jpg Conversion fittings, � to 7/8 and � to �; a few other brass fittings for vent lines and vacuum: piszkI5l.jpg Hot tip – buy the 7/8 180 degree silicone hose adapter, cut the ends off, and use the ends for your 7/8 to � conversion. Of course, you’ll have to find the barbed reducers that don’t exist for some reason….which is why I had to make them! The heater lines on the Porsche are over .800, these 7/8 silicone tubes slip over due to the size differences. Clamp over the hard lines, push in adapters, run your lines to the water pump, done. bhmOH7ml.jpg Had to swap the straight 12an fitting for a 45 and also swap the straight 10an to NPT for a 45. Everything clears and runs perfectly through the engine bay now. IHsrKRql.jpg Also mounted the remote oil filter and lines, tucked up tight to the body next to the alternator. Temporary filter since I’ll run some cheap synthetic oil and filter for the first 500 miles then swap to Amsoil. 3Zewz9al.jpg InKyfUQl.jpg I still have the Fast 92 on there, it was confirmed the black and gray are the same but the 102 is a bit longer and will never fit. I am going to have to get a bit more creative to make this 92 fit. It's staying! Chop chop. Someone's crying as they're seeing this... 7uxx5g2l.jpg CLkamAjl.jpg Had to cut out more trunk for ease of working on the new powerplant. Much better. I’ll move the latch to a better position too. svITQWzl.jpg A lot more updates coming...

I had to figure out the wiring for the NSS bypass or Park Switch. The Tiptronic switch was in good shape so I yanked it off the Tip for a quick diagnostic and found the last two pins in the top row can be jumped to simulate "in park" so there's a super fancy paperclip jumping the connector under the car right now. If anyone needs a picture of this, let me know. As for the rest of the wiring, I have the original M96 engine wiring harness. I kept this as some of the wires were cut/broken/rough and it needed to be replaced for the most part. I thinned out the harness (cue more crying) and wrapped and finished it to make it look as factory as possible. It matches the Holley Terminator X harness so everything looks great! I have to extend a few sensor wires and the starter wiring for final fitment but otherwise it's a great way to clean up the engine bay and keep it looking OEM. Mess i9K9XzIl.jpg FjToVy3l.jpg Finished product Wr4Et1Ql.jpg I also made a nice little bracket to repurpose the positive terminal lug for the engine bay from the original Porsche harness. It’s a high quality piece so I wanted to put it back in. I mounted it upside down to keep it out of the way of dipstick. Bracket holding said terminal: xkNRjRJl.jpg Hard to see, but it mounts under the coil pack. It can also mount over it. ovpVNSbl.jpg FYI, if you use a Terminator X, you will love it AND you'll need to buy an 4 pin alternator wiring harness to excite the alternator. This should plug into the power plug on the Terminator X harness, IIRC. Here's a link: https://www.holley.com/products/acce.../parts/197-400 The Terminator X was very easy to setup. I'm a little bummed I can't see the GM oil pressure sensor but perhaps I'm not seeing it in the software yet. Maybe I can see it on my laptop, we'll see. It's a breeze to get it going though and I am happy to ditch the Porsche Tiptronic DME. I am going to keep the Porsche M96 DME as I believe it runs the ABS system and also runs a few systems through it such as the starter. I'm sure I could bypass it but won't until I know what systems are totally affected.

The 180 degree headers have been ordered. I should see the first set in about 3 weeks. I threw on the bumper to measure for exhaust outlets, muffler placement, etc.. I think the Spintech mufflers should sound pretty good! j3J6llWl.jpg Maybe I should paint or coat the pan after all… ZN9elFfl.jpg I threw in a new AGM Oreilly's battery and it CRANKS! No fuel pressure but it turns over great. I need to verify a few things, such as oil pressure and fuel pump operation before firing. I have some freebie LS truck exhaust manifolds on there for now. Nearing the end of the electric steering conversion. I used RSR fittings since I didn't have time to make my own. They're a nice set for only $90. I also bought new Porsche O-rings made from organic unicorn toenails for too much money. I'm using PTFE 6AN lines and fittings (5/16 ID) for pressure with 6AN rubber hoses for return (3/8 ID). I have bought some nice bulkhead fittings and will run the lines near the brake master and pass through the firewall. Easy peezy. Placement of the new pump. Way too tall. Bracket not really usable. I don’t want to drill down into the area it’s sitting on, that’s the fuel tank. More on how I mount this later on! J44f2jrl.jpg 8a0i8Kml.jpg New bracket I drew up: Cut on the Langmuir baby plasma cnc and bent: 5U8EP5Bl.jpg I drew up this bracket. It needs a couple tweaks but came out great for a first draft. These TRW pumps are from a Vauxhall Astra and is the same pump as the Porsche GT3 cup pumps....but costs 1/10 of the price. As soon as I feel like sitting on my side for another 3 hours putting in the bolt on the rack that holds the fittings, I'll have this wrapped up. Mega extension to reach said bolt, which stripped, but I got it out: YHBQ1cwl.jpg RSR Fittings and new SS bolt: Rebel S Racing (RSR) Steering Rack Fittings for elec. Pump – John James Racing Jn1TnJSl.jpg To do list is much shorter now: Find lack of fuel pressure culprit and fix Shift cables were wrong end type for transaxle end; too large, need earlier smaller versions or convert to heims Fill and bleed coolant Fill and bleed brakes Bleed clutch Tweak throttle cable; Only opens 75% Mount Terminator ECU Run Terminator lines permanently and route through interior Reassemble interior Tweak clutch pedal; it’s slightly out of position Fab intake tube and tap for MAT sensor Fab/buy PCV catch can Hookup Porsche oil pressure sensor; extend wiring harness Extend starter wire Rework starter to alternator positive cable; route in cleaner fashion Add 1 more block to chassis ground Clean up wiring routes through car Reassemble rest of the rear end of the car; crossmembers, sway bar, bumper, etc. Final cut/fit of engine lid area Test Drive!

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great progress , anxious to see the headers

Nice build! It sure is handy to be a machinist and have a shop at the ready when doing a project like this - the time and $ savings must be massive. I can't wait to see/hear this baby go

Awesome progress. Can't wait to see it running.

Forgot to update this. Been a while! Car starts and runs. Have to jump the fuel pump relay to get the pump to operate. Holds 58psi no problem. I need to find the correct wire in the loom to supply with 12v switched for relay to click over with the key. I have the starter wire ran and everything works as it should. Had to hookup a Holley 5v alternator trigger wire to the GM alt so it would charge the battery. New AGM battery from Oreilly's has been awesome for sitting then starting suddenly after weeks. COVID shut down most of the midwest so the shop that was building the headers took a hit and had to close its doors for a while. They started cutting and bending tube this week so I should see the first set of headers in a couple weeks at most. I'm beyond stoked because I didn't think it would happen during this crazy pandemic nonsense where we think small business will survive 4 months of quarantine. I will NOT be using SpinTech mufflers. I stumbled across an outdated webpage called Dr. Gas. The mufflers looked very similar to SpinTech but have some differences. I call them up and speak to the owner and original designer of the "Boom Tubes" and the SpinTech design. Evidently, he came up with that design and SpinTech and NASCAR ripped it off after the intellectual property rights expired, which I believe is 5 years. He now has a new shop setup in Utah and I'll be sourcing my mufflers through him. They should sound amazing and give the perfect tone. They're essentially built for this type of exhaust and scavenging specifically. I had to redesign the exhaust headers a few times to meet all the bend criteria and fitment requirements. The exhaust now has expanded joints underneath that are offset so the headers are now a left and a right side. At this time, not using springs or other means to hold the halves together but that may change after the first prototype. I have a few people that will be running this exhaust in the 996 or 997 LS swap so I will have the headers, mufflers, and even clamps and mounts designed and ready for a bolt in LS swap exhaust system for Porsche 996 and 997 cars. Pretty neat. Anyway, that's what I'm waiting on. I made a booty fab exhaust but refuse to drive it. It's annoyingly loud. I still need to bleed the clutch system and figure out why my clutch pedal spring seems to be backwards. I also need to bleed the cooling system. The electric steering is pretty much set up and ready for final painting, wiring, and final tightening and bleeding. It's basically there, just needs a little more finishing, but I'm waiting for the exhaust and I need to finish the backhalf of my TJ before continuing. Smoked myself out of the garage upon startup but it was a fantastic feeling- 2wPeEthl.jpg

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Wow !! Having built a few race cars from ground up I know the amount of time/effort/fabrication that goes into something like this,,, Kodo's to you !!

Super cool. Im hoping to start back on my build in about a month. That brown interior with black looks sharp. I haven't read every post so forgive me for asking if it was said but is the motor stock or did u build it up any?

Glad the corvette filter worked out .Mine sure didn't .Great progress

The ls uses 12v+ to trigger the fuel pump and 996 uses a negative trigger. You must give the 996 relay a constant + and wire the positive in, I believe it�s a yellow white wire in the rear harness for the 996.

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Isn't that the pedal assist spring?

And good luck with the rsr fittings, one of them is machined too big for the rack, I had to turn mine down to fit.

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Thanks!!! I'm excited to see more of your updates! The LS1 bottom end is stock, factory 90k mile LS1 rotating assembly. I also put in a Tick performance SnS cam, 243 heads, Fast 92 intake + TB, Holley fuel rail, LS3 injectors, and updated it to the LS6 pcv. It's also got about $2000 worth of fittings on it for about 20hp. Thanks! Seems to be working so far. I appreciate that info! I'll look into that soon. I was under the impression the DME is searching for a signal from the motor, or maybe I left off a ground somewhere. The DME is there, so the fuel pump should fire as normal but it doesn't. I don't have the wire from my LS harness connected, I am wanting the fuel pump to run with key forward. I might wire in a ground switch if it's the case you're saying. Yes, the assist spring. I may just be overthinking it. The clutch pedal bolt that's attached the pedal itself that mounts to the brake pedal assembly doesn't thread in all the way, it has about 1/4" remaining to be seated when fully tight. I don't know why. I bought some spacers to make it work for now but haven't installed them because that's not the correct way to do things. The pedal spring slams the pedal down to the floor when the brackets and pedal are all in correct position, with the exception of the 1/4" standoff above. Something is not right...it's a pedal from eBay for 996 and appears to be correct but I'm a newb to 911s! Ehhh, thanks haha. I think one might be leaking. I'll probably pull them out, redesign them the way they should be, then fix it. We'll see when I can get to that! Damn Jeep has been taking all my time, plus the weather has been pretty good and I have a couple other new toys. Just bought a RTT for camping with my Raptor and some new beadlocks for said Raptor Gonna be a fun summer in that truck!

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I never saw this - thank you! It�s taken longer than I wanted but at least it�s on the home stretch! The new headers MIGHT be done next week. Crossing my fingers!

Sorry for the delays, I've been swamped. First set of headers are bent and tacked up. This set is going to the east coast for fitment on a few 997s and a 996.2. The second set will go to me to fit to my 996.1 and verify fitment before we produce the other sets. I've ordered my Dr. Gas mufflers and will be getting the 180 degree bends and turndown tips soon. Anyone have a good source for stainless steel turndowns? hYkrGwHl.jpg bBB5ggOl.jpg XDdWWrSl.jpg c3yJ95il.jpg XMbgOTGl.jpg RcfR82cl.jpg

Maybe u can fit a factory tail pipe for that "sleeper" look

Can't wait for a sound clip!

Edited

Would CPE be an alternative to Stuttgart Muscle?

Wow

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Stuttgart Muscle makes all the adapters that CPE uses. Just go straight to the source.

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Thanks, looks like their products are flywheel and mount are very similar?

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No problem. Andrew's kit is very well designed and put together and he makes it easy to order by having the clutch and other components separate on his store if you need to replace anything. I have Andrew's motor mounts and they went together very easily. I wish I would have bought his adapter.

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So you can get: Adapter - CPE or Stuttgart Mounts - CPE or Stuttgart Clutch - CPE or Stuttgart Pedal mount - Stuttgart Harness - CPE Power steering - CPE Whats left

Exhaust is beautiful man. Cannot wait to hear a clip. Here is a pic of the exhaust I have on my LS3 powered C2. Good luck and keep up the good work!

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Exhaust - Duke Engineering Solutions (me) www.dukeengineeringsolutions.com I actually make the TRW pump brackets as well, I will be supplying to both CPE and SM. I'll be coming up with premade hydraulic steering lines to convert the car to electric power steering and will only need a couple holes drilled to do so. I believe CPE has a pedal mount now too. Thanks! Your exhaust looks good, I like the crossover and center exit.

I remember coming across your thread on ls1tech, didn't want to get my hopes up (a lot of promising conversion threads fizzle out) but here it is almost ready to drive! I've always had dreams of doing this to an early 996. Yes, 180 degree headers included but my pipe dream had a short stroke 4.8 crank in an LS3 and 8000RPM capable valvetrain. Glad to see someone realizing it.

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Yes sir! I want a 7.0l block with 4.8 crank if I can find it but that's a long ways away! First need to make a DIY dry sump setup. More on that later after I get this lil 996 rolling. My 180 degree headers, 3" hydroformed U bends, and a turndown tip will be here next week. I have the Dr Gas mufflers already and I've designed the exhaust hangers, so it's not too far from being a 100% bolt on solution for these cars.

Exhaust needed a quick revision for one of the tubes. Hopefully this is the last revision and we can bolt-on and go for myself and the 10 others. The latest revision is done and should be in my hands this week. I'm stoked! I have the Dr. Gas mufflers, U bends, etc. and will be cutting and bending the hangers soon. Stay tuned!

Headers are installed, I had some troubles with first start and tuning. I also had interference with the starter that comes with the Kit Car Chassis LS to Porsche 996 and 997 adapter. I would NOT recommend buying this adapter. He used a cheap knockoff Chinese starter and it's proprietary to his plate. A factory starter with the bell on the tip doesn't fit. This means the LS3 starter that I used for design doesn't fit the adapter. I had to buy a PowerMaster 9509 starter ($$$$) with an open face (gear exposed). If I were to do this again, I'd buy the adapter from Stuttgart Muscle. It is machined for the LS3 Camaro starter and that's what I'll buy in the future the next time the engine is out. Lesson learned. I tacked together the rest of the exhaust setup with stainless MIG wire and then sent them out to be TIGed. I wish I had just bought a TIG, hah! I can TIG weld decently, I was hoping this was faster and easier. Nope. 2 weeks now, still not done. Always something delaying me. In any case, you can see where everything sits and how it will look, minus the hangers. The hangers are here and 80% finished, just a few more bends and then mount to the mufflers. This setup fits the 996 C2 platform without needing any additional welding which means that any 996 or 997 C2 swap enthusiast can do this in their driveway. It even has the O2 bungs and all clamps. The headers clear the 996 and 997 engine bay and firewall as well as the crossmembers. I'm super stoked on the fitment and how well it came out. Clears the AC compressor and alternator with room to spare. I've started it up and ran it with the temporary setup but will wait to post videos until I have the Dr. Gas mufflers back and everything is bolted up. This project is ready for it's first drive as soon as the mufflers are here. Pics attached, hopefully this is what y'all were waiting for! Excuse the mess! 7WmGA8Gl.jpg Oksqoohl.jpg lAHZGRvl.jpg WKNRukIl.jpg 2oKxQmXl.jpg ZhkC59Ul.jpg 4z4jihll.jpg

very excited to hear this run!

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Same here!

All the fond LS1 swap memories come flooding back. One of the easiest swaps (it seemed) to do, aftermarket and forum support is ENDLESS). Almost brings a tear to the eye and blood from my knuckles...

Great Job, and great thread, thanks for keeping it alive

Jesus those headers are sexy. Stoked to hear it run!

Thank you everyone for the kind words! Here's a video of the headers in a LS7 swapped 997 belonging to TJ Kenny: You Tube

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Holy sheeeeet! Ok I'm sold. Will these be available in a year when I need a set?

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Yes they will They're available now and will be for the foreseeable future! Thanks for the props!

I finally drove my LS1 swapped 996 for the first time. My alternator isn't charging, I think it took a dive after the first few startups. After I replace that and do some finish work, it'll be ready for it's first long drive to start racking up 500 miles to break in the clutch. After that and an oil change, it will be time to really start tuning this little LS1 and finish up the intake ducting, sensor placement, dash light and gauge fine tuning, and start some body and interior work. Of course, I'll put up a ton of videos for the exhaust sounds

Very cool!!

Amazing thread gtx! I have neither the talent nor, well, the talent to do this swap. Really a pleasure to observe from afar. Enjoy! TC

Thank you AA717driver. I'm sure you're a great pilot and that's probably more important! haha Couple more videos, second one is my car, the black 996. Enjoy! You Tube You Tube

They sound great! Can't wait to see that thing go!

oh man, that sounds wicked!

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Thank you gents The sound is growing on me. I kinda wanted something more throaty but this IS a P car after all. Drove the car for the first time on public roads, felt great, lots of power. Had some tuning issues but I have some help with that now. I'm swapping to a drive by wire (DBW) setup and ditching the cable setup. For this, I had to buy an entire new DBW Terminator X Max engine management system. It's a different harness and ECU altogether. I have a LS3 throttle body on the way as well, so I'll have those for sale if anyone is interested. This should make enough clearance to close the rear deck lid with what I've trimmed out. Later on, I'll mount a wing, but for now I'll just go slick. I designed up a new heat shield for the 180 headers that should protect the oil temps when racing. This isn't needed for regular spirited driving but I want to be prepared for the worst case when I decide to take it to the track. I might end up coating the entire exhaust in ceramic later this year. Power steering works great, can't say enough good things about it and I love the mount I made. Easy peezy. Interior is mostly back together now, just replacing some worn out factory trim pieces here and there, getting all the small things neat and tidy, then it's time to drive. I'll be working on the AC system once it's on the road, should be a piece of cake (famous last words). Eventually I'll want to put in a Porsche PCCM Plus as someone ripped out the stereo that was in the car. I'll probably put in a period correct Blaupunkt for nostalgia reasons until I want to slap down $1400 for the PCCM. Hoping to find a great deal on some BBS e88s from a Cup car or something as these painted twists make my head hurt. They're just not my style. Also have a 2" H&R lowering kit to put in eventually. Like I've been saying for a while, eventually it'll be metallic green again with updated Panamera headlights from 996Retrofits. More exhaust videos and some drive bys coming soon!

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sounds awesome!!!

great progress .What is your issue with the cable throttle body?

With my DBC setup, the throttle body is a little longer than the DBW throttle body. This makes the elbow smash into the deck lid when it closes. There�s no way around it, so I needed to save space. With a DBW throttle body, I can also make a 90 degree elbow off the intake for the throttle body itself so it makes a ton of clearance. This means I could eventually use a 100% unmodified deck lid and have a functional wing again, if I want one. It�s also easier for tuning and idle adjustments. Apples to oranges. I still have DBC on my Jeep which I prefer for that application.

Understand .Please publish a picture when completed .

DBW swap complete, 250 miles and counting on the swap. It�s VERY fast! Dyno tune scheduled in a couple weeks.

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super cool, congrats. Hopefully im not to far behind you with mine getting finished. enjoy it!!

Cool thread - thanks for all the detail. Hows the serviceability going to be ? I may have been thinking about an ITB'd, dry sumped LS running Holley or Haltech

Well done .The intake design and execution are great .Be interesting to see the dyno #'s with the 180 exhaust and a smooth intake flow .It's an ls1 with new cam and valve springs ?

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Thanks! Yes, I'm looking for updates from your thread My pleasure, this is a build journal for me as I reference it from time to time too. Serviceability is great, I changed the plugs in 30 minutes two weeks ago while sitting on a stool. Can't complain there! I also swapped the Fast 92 intake for a ported LS2 intake in about 4 hours without having to remove the engine. Just drop it down an inch to access the bolts and it comes off. The majority of that ime was taking off the water pump and some other misc items that needed done at the same time. I took my time and it was an easy swap. I like the Terminator X but we'll see if it's a long term solution. So far, the quality is there but it IS an aftermarket system. Thank you! MAT sensor says the intake air is around 110 degrees, so I can live with that. Hoping for 420HP to the wheels. I lost a few HP when I traded the Fast 92 intake for the ported LS2 but I still think this car has tons of power left in it. LS1, 243 heads, Tick SNS Stage 2 Cam, ported LS2 intake, LS3 throttle body and injectors, Melling oil pump, and the 180 headers. Seems to be a good combo.

Car put down 393 rwhp on the dyno a couple weeks ago! I'm very happy with that. What I'm not happy about - a rod knock. This poor little LS1 was consuming oil and I didn't know it. The dipstick was still reading "full" due to an error on the level. I'll get all this wrapped up and have a "new" LS1 on the way. I also have two brand new fans and resistors to toss in as well. Hopefully I'll have a new budget soon for the interior improvements. Looking at a new steering wheel, seats, and GT3 console delete + stereo. I might update the mufflers too, I want to play around with the Borla XR1 series. All of this should make the car a comfy daily driver in the end. Still want to figure out which converter box to use for 24x to 58x crank signal to run the tach. Any suggestions here?

Awesome man. Sure you could throw a new LS in there, or you could pull the old one out and rebuild it into a monster. Just sayin.

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Thanks! I thought about building a bigger LS, even using an iron block. At the end of the day, this LS1 is tuned, it's within the safe capabilities of the transaxle and, hopefully the fuel system. It's also tame enough to drive daily while powerful enough to slam you into the seat at the end of the day. I think it'll be the perfect car for commute and track days combined. I have some plans for the suspension that require funds too, so the budget wasn't there to drop 15k-25k into another LS + turbo transaxle + fuel system upgrade.

No need to go that deep into five-figures. You don’t need to go to a Turbo transaxle and different adapter plate, the G96.01 is pretty capable up to 500 hp just don’t go launching it and you’ll keep things together. Maybe drop in a Stage 2 or 2.5 clutch to keep up. As an alternative to rebuilding the LS1, you can go with a 530hp long block with a warranty for $7,700. Go with a short block and you’re at $5,600 still with a warranty. https://blueprintengines.com/product...2l-psls3760ctf

My little cammed LS1 puts out close to 500 already. I also have a replacement ls1 short block here already. Best dyno results so far with my 180 header design is 443 rwhp from a cammed LS3. 50hp is considerable but not worth the price difference at all. Thanks for the suggestions though, Blue Print engines are great people.

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No updates yet...but my wife did buy me a GT3 console delete for my birthday! Looking at buying a Continental head unit, a new carbon fiber steering wheel to replace this Tip CF wheel, and some Beard seats in black. What does everyone think of that plan? Interior is Savannah beige and the steering wheel would also be black to match the seats. Also looking for recommendations for replacement speakers. I think this is a simple stereo set in my C2, I don't think it has the hifi package. I don't think I want two huge subs behind me, just clean, crisp, high quality sound. Any suggestions?

Does anyone have tips on bleeding the clutch in these cars? This has plagued me twice now, I can�t even recall how I was able to bleed it the first time. I use a Motive bleeder hooked to the Master, pumped to 20psi. Master cylinder is brand new, everything worked well before I removed the transaxle and engine. I push the clutch pedal to the floor via a helper in the car, then I crack the bleed screw on the slave. Fluid comes out, no bubbles now, and I keep the level above the master cylinder pickup. The pedal has to be lifted back to position then it feels firm. It�ll shift into gear without engine running, then when I start the car, I can�t shift into gear with clutch pedal pressed. I�ve tried manual bleeding, no luck either. I don�t think I incorrectly installed the clutch pressure plate, all that went together smoothly. I supposed the slave could be bad finally, but that�s a guess. Any ideas?

I just installed a new slave when I did my transmission swap. Simple vacuum pump on the slave bleeder until there's no bubbles and done works great. If you have solid pressure in the clutch pedal I don't think bleeding is your issue. It's possible to miss align the slave onto the fork.

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Do you have the car level, or worse, the rear higher? I had my front tires on ramps, about 8 or 9" with the rear driver side raised about 5", just enough to be able to reach under and work the bleed valve. The front raised higher and left side slightly higher gets the last of the air to the highest point. I installed my slave empty and it took less than an hour with no pump. The pedal going to the floor for the first couple of pumps is the assist spring.

Two points : did you try starting with a gear engaged ? Could be the disc is just stuck to flywheel ( happened to me ) .On the bleeding the slave valve needs to be open over 20 seconds -forget what the shop manual calls for -.but it is a long time .

Damn this thread makes we want to find a roller and do this swap! Looks incredible and where in WA are you out of? I'm in the Hood River OR/White Salmon WA area for work about 3 times a year.

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It does sound like fun.. there is a local guy that has done one also ..

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Thanks for the insight! I can pull the slave and see if the fork was just misaligned. I should be able to at least see in there and maybe push on the fork with a rod to see if it disengages the clutch. At $93, I might just buy a new slave so I know all components are good. Okay, so this may be a big reason. I have the rear of the car on ramps. I tried putting the front of the car in the air and bleeding, but same result. Now that I know this, I'll raise the front higher than the rear and try again. Thanks!! 20 seconds? Okay. Glad I have fresh Bosch fluid sitting here. I'll give it another shot with the front end higher than the rear. I can also try starting it in gear to dislodge clutch from flywheel. It was warm outside when I assembled it and now it's in the 40s and 50s outside. Could just be stuck. Thanks! I'm in Lacey/Tacoma/Seattle area, all over. There's 4-5 LS swapped 911s in this area that I know of. 3 of them run my 180 headers

Bleeding clutch woes� Front end up in the air, higher than the rear, Motive bleeder at 30psi, hardly any bubbles come out, all clear fluid. Bled for 20 seconds, filled up my little bleed bottle. Started car, no clutch. Started car in gear, moved it around the driveway for a couple seconds, try clutch again, nothing. anyone wanna buy a LS1 996 that needs a clutch bleed? lol

Was the clutch pedal depressed when you bled it ?

yes, pedal down, crack bleeder, clear fluid.

The idea with starting in gear is to keep clutch pedal depressed -weight of car used to overcome friction .Does the pedal feel normal like it is activating the fingers on the pressure plate ?

Used to have a C5 Corvette & the slave went out at about 105k miles. PIA to do transmission work as the exhaust system and entire rear end needs to be dropped. Had them install a remote bleeder when they did the slave as I was selling it to my buddy who I knew would never sell it. Not sure if this is possible with the LS swapped porsche but I suppose it's way easier to drop everything in a 911.

I see. I�ll give that shot today. The pedal feels normal, like it should. When car is running, if I try to shift into gear, the car will try to creep forward. I�m thinking it�s either a stuck flywheel or the slave went bad somehow. I can access the slave with the car on stands. It�s tight, but I can get in there. Thanks for the tip!

Or the bell housing that you used has shifted because it has no locating pins to hold it centered. It may have prematurely worn out the pilot bearing and other parts not letting the clutch to release. Hope that�s not the problem, Or when you put the transaxle back in it was not centered and you tightened it up putting pressure on the input shaft and pilot bearing and it won�t release.

Got a picture of the clutch disk you installed? I had a friend who rebuilt his motor and installed an aftermarket Aluminum flywheel with aftermarket clutch disk and pressure plate, he installed the disk in backwards and had the same issue as you are having, and had even replaced the slave cylinder also. He called me over and 30min later we had the trans back out and on the floor and found the disk in backwards...lol

I am sure you have done this but ......recheck that the slave is fully seated . ?

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Both good points. I think the first one is unlikely but I do remember a small amount of misalignment when tightening down the transaxle. I didn�t think much of it. I hope I�m not tearing apart the transaxle from the engine again! I don�t have a picture of the disk installed on the latest rebuild. I recall looking at the clutch disk and reading the proper orientation. I�m hoping my memory is good! lol I�ll keep this in mind. Last resort is to remove the transaxle and inspect everything. I tried starting with the car in gear and clutch pushed in. No change. I jacked up the front of the car and left it in the air in the case that air bubbles are still in the system. I had these same problems before, so it�s possible I�m just horrible at bleeding!!

I never removed it from the transaxle. I can remove it and inspect, maybe I can test it outside the car. It�s possible the slave tip isn�t seated properly on the arm?

Quotes source post: 17730942

if u unbolt it and press the pedal it will blow the rod out and leak everywhere. U will have to lock it down to test. I have seen clutch disks seize to flywheels in jeeps that have sat for a while. Last one i had to jack up the rear, bring the wheels up to 20mph and slam on the breaks. That broke everything free.

I know there was some discussion earlier about the LV3 been an option for a swap, I don't want to derail this but figure I post this video here. It looks like theLV3 has potential. You Tube

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Thanks, I�ll make sure I don�t blow the rod out! I think there�s air in the lines. I�m going to pump the clutch daily and leave the front end in the air. I�ll bleed again with the motive bleeder in a couple days. From what I�ve seen with other forum and social media posts, bleeding these clothes is a major pain in the ***!!! Come back when things aren�t hectic

Very cool project!

Quotes source post: 17742507

Thank you I discovered a missing bolt in the clutch master cylinder mounting location. I don't know why I took this out, or when, but apparently it was necessary at the time. I replaced the missing bolt and bled the clutch again with the Motive bleeder - it somewhat works when I pump the clutch repeatedly. This is with the car on jacks stands and e-brake on. With e-brake off, tires will spin when it's in gear with clutch pedal to the floor. There has to be air in the lines still or the slave is bad. Everything worked well before I parked the car for the engine replacement and the master is new. When bleeding, clutch pedal is down all the way, Motive bleeder at 20psi, crack bleeder valve on slave - clear fluid, no bubbles, let it bleed for 20 seconds. I have the front of the car higher than the rear. I'm considering raising the rear end higher than front and trying again just for the sake of trying to catch some pesky air bubbles in the system. It's hard to imagine they're still in the lines. I haven't discovered any leaks, it's a single line from the master to the slave. I started and idled the car for 15 minutes to let the new coolant bleed, that went well. I just want to drive it! I have another update to post soon on the subwoofer box I made and the rest of the audio upgrades and GT3 console delete. As soon as I figure out this clutch issue I'll post all the updates! edit: If anyone can think of a reason not to replace the slave cylinder, let me know. Otherwise I think I'm ordering one from Pelican within a few days. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...SVSI=4311&fs=0

Just looked up Porsche shop manual bleeding and it is minimum 30 seconds .I was wrong on the 20 seconds .Since it worked before hard to believe slave just gave out from sitting .If it is kinda working that means progress - I would bleed again and then drive it -could be a sticky clutch plate -sounds farfetched but has happened .

Its common for parasitic drag to make the wheels spin when the clutch is in. I bet if u put it on the ground it drives fine.

Question I just bought a salvage 99 911 tip does this setup only work with a 6 speed ? also all in if I have a car what would it realistically cost

about 3.50

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Thanks for looking it up. I let it bleed for close to 30 seconds, I was very patient. I�m going to put the car down and drive it. I have the 2nd gear detent fix to install as well. If it doesn�t have good clutch feel I�ll bleed it again and let it sit for 30+ seconds. I hope you�re right! I�ll give it a shot. This has been answered in this thread. It�s not all that complex, you have to buy the parts and install them. Transaxle, clutch pedal, shifter, master, slave, lines, and then DME changes. There�s other bits to it but you need to do more research if you�re serious. sounds right!

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Were you able to get the Oil Temp/Level gauge working in dash? Can you show what you've done if so?

I have CTS working at the moment. The oil pressure just reads 60psi no matter what. I�ve tried swapping the wires on the sensor. No change. I have good oil pressure from the LSx sensor via the Holley interface. As for the oil level, I have the plug and sensor but I�d have to cut down the sensor so it�s not installed. Others don�t even run this sensor but I�d really like to. I�m curious if I could mount a tube off the other dipstick location in my oil pan (there are two) and get the readout there. It�s one of the things on my to-do list. I�ll update the thread when I do get around to it. I also have a tach converter box to wire into the Holley to P car interface that will convert the LS 24x signal to 58x, essentially.

Well it drives! It�s hard to shift when the car is cold. I think the linkage in the shifter might be suspect. Maybe something is not quite right and I can dial it in. Once the car is warm it shifts pretty well. I never liked this shifter setup. But I put 50 miles on the car and it runs great! No issues. I�m very happy to be driving it again finally!

Nioce

good !

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Did you use the 996 DBW pedal for this? How did you wire it?

I ended up using the GM C7 DBW pedal. If I had used the 996.1 e-gas pedal, I could�ve retained cruise control. That kinda concerned me as the system is cable operated and I believe it�s regulated based on speed. I just didn�t feel confident with that solenoid pulling the cable and setting speed when the car has so much more torque and power. If it�s wet out and I�m using cruise control, if it suddenly pulls the cable for 30% throttle (or some other significant value), this car will spin the tires. I never intended for this car to be a long distance cruiser, I�d buy a 991 or similar car for that. As for the wiring, they�re both 6 wire setups IIRC. I had the wiring mostly figured out but wanted to just drive the car instead of tinkering with yet another mini project. So I sold it all. I love the C7 pedal so I probably won�t go back but Stuttgart Muscle was sold and the new owner doesn�t seem interested in offering the 3D printed adapter for the C7 pedal. If you need one, I might be able to find one, send me a PM. If you need help with the wiring of the 996.1 egas pedal, let me know and I can send you what I have.

HI, I have a 1999 996 Convertible and also getting ready to install the Corvette DBW pedal which is correct for the C5 Corvette Ls1 Im swapping in place of my Porsche DBC pedal. I have the original harness and GM ECU, would really appreciate the wiring diagram or guidance. Thanks

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Hi - if you're using the GM pedal and harness, you don't need to change anything. You'll only need to design/fabricate/3D print an adapter to mount the pedal in the OEM Porshce pedal position. The adapter I used was from Stuttgart Muscle and they were sold off to CPE. CPE doesn't seem to sell that adapter, probably because it was 3D printed. CPE also knocked off my 997 (edit: appears Tyler knocked off my 996 mount too) Power Steering Bracket design. I just saw that. Oh well, you can't make people be honest I guess! What's the expression from Oscar Wilde? " Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness"

Thanks for the reply, so I just run the wires from the pedal direct to the GM ECU DBW plug?

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No problem! There's a plug for the DBW pedal. Some are 5 pin, most are 6 pin IIRC. Since it sounds like you pulled the OEM LS harness and pedal, it is just plug and play. You'll just need to make a physical adapter to put the GM pedal in the OEM Porsche pedal position. Hope that makes sense.

Makes perfect sense. Great news! Thanks again appreciate your help.

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Check to see if your LS1 setup uses a TAC Module. It is a box that goes between the factory computer and the DBW pedal. They are specific to the pedal type. I needed one when I put an LS6 in my 73 Camaro.

I will check thanks!

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I don't use anything OEM GM in my setup since it's a Holley Terminator X. Just plug and play. I've considered selling my LS1 996 if anyone here is interested. I have my eye on a Targa SC, GT4, or maybe a wide body outlaw 964 or SC. This 996 is very fast and fun, but I have a bucket list to whittle down

I've put another 500 miles on the car and I really like the way it drives and behaves now. Shifting is actually quite good now after adjusting the linkage and putting in the new ****. The interior has started coming together and I really like the GT3 console delete. It cleans up the center area and allows more leg room which makes cruising much more comfortable. The Continental stereo is nice but clunky. I bought it from Bergvill F/X and would not recommend anyone buy their Continental stereo from Tore. He demands the customer ship back the deck on your own dime even though this deck is clearly having issues. The bluetooth skips all the time and will stop working at times. I have to hit play on my phone to start the music again about 2-3 min after inital start. Tore's prices are also significantly more than domestic suppliers. I paid about $65 more than I would if I had bought the deck through a US supplier. I wanted to support a Rennlist vendor but it definitely bit me in the long run. Shipping back to Norway is around $70. Not worth it, I'd rather just buy another deck and return this one directly to Continental. Lesson learned, stay domestic for complicated items. Back to the 996 itself - I replaced the headlight switch and oil pressure sensor. I lubed the telescoping column after breaking loose the spring inside the mechanism as it was a little stuck. These are both normal 996 issues that come up and easy to fix. The oil pressure is always stuck at 5 even with the engine off - how do I troubleshoot this? I used a BNIB OEM replacement sender. I also replaced the oil pan gasket as it had a small leak. All good now, no issues. I adjusted the throttle pedal inputs in the Holley software and it really changed the driveability of the car at low speeds. Much easier to control the throttle. The more I drive the car, the more I enjoy the exhaust note and the way it accelerates. It really does sound like a Porsche and not a V8. I plan to keep plugging along at the little stuff. The driver's side power window is slower than the passenger, I want to replace that soon. I have a H&R 2" drop kit with new struts to install too. I think it's time to install the AC compressor and have lines made for summer cruising. I'll also be removing the 2000s era window tint for updated tint. Once all these little mechanical things are done, I'll look at getting the car prepped and painted in original color of rain forest metallic green and refurbishing or replacing the twist wheels. As for the interior, the last things on the list to update are seats and steering wheel. I think I want just a very nice leather or alcantera 3 spoke steering wheel and Recaro or Sparco seats. All in time. Hoping this car is "done" within a year of today and fully finished outlaw 996.

I forgot to post a few updates so here's some backstory to the above post. New shift **** from Manuel, it's a really nice piece. I cut down the factory shift boot to fit and filed down the shift blade to fit. Feels much better and I really love the look. I installed the Gbox 2nd gear detent which took about 3 hours and had to get crafty with a magnet. No more 2nd gear pop out now. New headlight switch installed but still no low beams. Must be something else. I'll check fuses and relays again. Horn works now, just needed the relay swapped out. I also ordered a Radium Engineering catch can and think I have a place for it in the engine bay near the water pump. The screws for the bumper showed up finally as well as the last trim piece for the HVAC controls. A quick sticky tape phone mount to the left side of the dash helped stash my phone for driving. I mounted the Holley Terminator X 4.5" screen on the GT3 console delete to make it easier to track my oil pressure, CTS, MAT, and other data. I have a new Porsche oil pressure sensor and cowl piece on the way too. The interior has really come together and it only needs a few minor things to be really complete and ready for some miles. New seats, new steering wheel, and finish the subwoofer box is all that really remains. I'll refresh the HIDs that are on my garage shelf with a 3M headlight restoring kit. I also need to install the H&R lowering kit and new struts sometime soon. The sunny days are dwindling here and I'll probably wrap up the difficult work later this winter. My Jeep is also coming back to the house soon and it needs some prep work before KOH. Interior is on point now, leg room, cup holders, and good tunes.

A couple pictures of when the weather was nice and the fresh 24k mile LS1 short block that went in with new rod and crank bearings. This LS1 is healthy and pulls hard!

Here's a few more pics and details I've been working on... I designed a dual 8" subwoofer box in Solidworks CAD and got busy with my circular saw and sander. None of the planes are orthogonal on this box, no right angles anywhere. Tricky to get right, get straight, and seal, but overall amazing to see it perfectly in place behind the rear seats. Volume is matched to the specs of the Memphis 8" subs. Amp is in the frunk. Yes, this works with the Contintenal head unit via a Kicker line-out converter. The box is nearly finished, just minor hole filling and paint left to do. Sounds really good and I also replaced the dash and rear speakers with Focal and Inifinity Kappas.

Radium Engineering catch can install. I really like this and it's a must have for LS engines. I'll be putting one on my Jeep. Radium forgot to include the two fittings I ordered but sent replacements right away. Really great engineering and design, I want to put a few more of their products on this car if I can find places for them. I hand made a 304 stainless steel bracket one night while drinking an old fashioned. I routed the catch can drain through the body and down below to make draining easy. I also replaced the spark plugs that night as the original tune was very rich for safety. I can replace all the spark plugs while sitting at the rear of the car. I never have to get under the car or remove anything other than the intake. Another old fashioned helped here too. I also installed a 2nd gear detent from Gbox. This really cleaned up the 2nd gear shift. I highly recommend this mod. I did it with the transaxle in place but it was a major challenge. They say an hour to do this mod....plan for 3-4. Buy a REALLY strong set of magnets and angled needle nose pliers. Recently someone asked where the O2 sensor is located...here you go: Lastly....a cruise up to Alki Beach

Wow that’s a tight fit but good luck you definitely have the mechanical skills enjoy

Great job! I love me some Porsche 911 expertise and really appreciate folks doing hard things that not everyone would do. And love me some American V8 to boot!

Radium stuff slays... Great build man - your fab skills are really impressive, especially to someone like me who can really only turn a wrench with relative success.

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Thanks! It's tight in areas, but seems easier to work on than a typical 996. Changing plugs is super easy. Even taking off the headers is not bad. Some people complain about these headers but I don't think they've picked up a set of ratcheting wrenches and exhaust studs. I did the oil pan gasket in about 2.5 hours start to finish and taking my time. After all these years of wrenching and fabricating, it seems to have paid off. It's opened many many doors and led to many job opportunities. Thanks Mike. It pulls hard and looks great under the deck lid. Most people appreciate the work that goes into this and the craftmanship so it's great to hear it from Rennlist folks too. Thank you! I've been following your build too, awesome stuff. I've been fabricating for a long time. Once you start, it can be addicting and you'll make mistakes but it's all part of the fun. Maybe you'll be bending your own cage soon My wife and I bent my Jeep's cage in our condo garage in college with nothing but a tape measure, bender, and some pics I printed. Gotta start somewhere.

Hey I'm looking for catch can suggestions for a LS-swapped 996. Recommendations?

I used this one in the post above yours, I like it a lot: http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-...ItemId=1314877

I installed the GBOX detent in my 996 and it eliminated 2nd gear pop-out. Right afterwards a friend asked about how difficult it was and I told him, "not too difficult." Then he asked if I'd install one in his 996 and I told him, "oh hell no!" It was difficult enough that I didn't want to do it again right away, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again if I owned a second 996. I offered to do it in "a couple of weeks"...luckily he never took me up on it. Ha!

Another 1500 miles on the car and it feels great! Definitely wanting AC now...so need to figure that out. I have a '99 LS1 Corvette Compressor and bracket, fits well. Need a belt for it, so will have to figure that out. Looking at wiring diagrams, should be 1 wire. I believe the GM pump looks for an excite signal, other wire is a ground. Excite wire should be 5v PWM if I'm not mistaken. Has anyone who's LS swapped these cars confirm? I believe I have the 996.1 engine bay AC excite wire color code, red/white. I'll track this down int he engine bay. Then just need to make hoses which shouldn't be too bad since I have all the old hoses. I'll find a shop in the Seattle/Bellevue area hopefully. If anyone has inputs and recommendations, please share! Thanks!

Green/Yellow from X59/1 plug direct to the excite pin on the LS1 compressor and ground the second pin. Porsche a/c wire may not provide voltage if pcm doesn�t recognize a running engine? Also, system has to be filled with gas to turn on.

There are several ways to do it .I bypassed the porsche dme and am using the gm pcm to control a/c -wanted idle kick up -wot a/c compressor off and fan control by engine temp and speed .Others have used the dme to control. with apparently good results and a lot easier .Not familiar with the term excite wire .The dme grounds the a/c relay which provides 12 volts to engage the ac compressor clutch .The climate control communicates with the dme via a pwm signal . .

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Thank you both! I'll take a look at these soon. I have this adapter ( https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/lsx...fitting-black/ ) for the Corvette AC Compressor. I also have the OEM Corvette AC lines to reference. I need to find a shop or source to make the hoses now. I believe the fittings are Female O-Ring (FOR) seen here: https://coldhose.com/collections/female-oring I've seen quite a few guys use adapter fittings and some have cut off the Porsche fittings to weld on new universal fittings. Has anyone made lines that are bolt-on to the OEM Porsche 996 connections? I used to design these fittings and could draw them up quickly if nobody has done this yet. It seems simple and much easier than cutting/welding.

Cut and tig here but would have jumped on a bolt on solution .

They make fittings that u can slip into the flexible hose if u cut off the aluminum section. U just slip it in and clamp the metal rings down. I had to use a repair union in one of my lines. I could have converted it to a standard ac fitting. One of the rings broke so i used s hose clamp.

Wow. Just read this whole thread! Very nice! I' love seeing these swaps, brings my two worlds together., Camaro's and Carrera's Did the LS swap in my 70 Camaro, worth every single penny and frustration. the swap is 8 years old now and has 23,000 reliable miles on it and has seen 19 states. this is intriguing. I hope u keep and continue to hot rod. love me some outlaw.....

If you're still looking for fittings try Coldhose in Ocala, FL Great company and just helped me with my 996 LS swap. The DME is not grounding the A/C relay. Have you gotten yours done and is it working? Thanks

plumber 452-is the system charged and do you have the porsche small alternator wire connected ?I don't know the dme logic but do know the climate control must see engine running which is the alternator wire and the dme needs a signal from the low pressure a/c sensor/switch that there is 25 psi or so in the system .

Thanks for the response. Yes the system is charged and I have 12V at the A/C Relay. I have voltage on pin 86 at the relay, that is the voltage side of the coil, and no voltage when I go from Pin 86+ to Pin 85-, which is the ground from the DME. I don't recall a small alternator wire. I kept the Porsche Alternator wiring which i know is rather large. Would that small wire have been "Bundled" in that wire? And the Alternator is charging. Thanks

two wires on the alternator -the charge wire and a thin blue wire -it feeds the instrument cluster -abs -climate control for engine on signal .That is on a 1999 996 what year is yours ?.

That wire would have been part of the engine harness -on the big connectors x59/1 pin12

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My car is an 01. I'll have to look back through my notes as to which pins I kept. I don't recall that small blue wire but that was about a year ago that I did that portion of the swap. My instrument panel lights up as well as my climate control head unit and it seems to be functioning properly. Thanks

just looked at wiring diagram 01 still has the wire .

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Thanks !!!! I'll look into that today. that would definitely explain my problem if the Climate Control Unit doesn't know that the engine is running.

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So, I just tore back into my harness and I did keep the blue wire. I connected it to the Alternator wire coming from the GM ECU. I did find the blue wire in the Porsche wiring diagram and it appears to me that it's feeding the cluster, as you mentioned. Since my voltage gauge is working and everything seems to light up and work on the cluster do you think the way I have it wired up is O.K.? I've attached the GM alternator wiring diagram. I'm not strong in a lot of areas but I'm defiantly the weakest when it comes to electrical

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Thanks for sharing this! I might just go this route, I have all the OEM hoses and this would make things much easier. I'll take some pics as I go along. I won't be able to look at my setup until mid-June. Thank you! I didn't realize I had other replies so I just saw yours. 70s Camaros have always been a favorite of mine. The lines of the car and the layout of the interior has always been appealing. The style of those 70s muscle cars is unprecedented IMO. I'll keep hot rodding for sure. Hoping to start taking my 996 LS1 to a few HDPE and Autocross events this summer. I just need some AC, this cabin is HOT! Oh awesome! Thanks for sharing. I'll keep them in mind as I had been looking at their fittings on their site. I'll may need two hoses made for the compressor side and just splice into the OEM P car hoses on the chassis side. I haven't done my AC setup yet, mid-June it looks like. This is great info, thanks for posting. Ditto here, thanks for sharing this! Excellent info here on Rennlist, it's great!

which alternator wire ?B would probably work .Quick check -is the instrument cluster battery idiot light on when key on engine not started ? and off with engine running ? If yes on above then another simple test would be to probe the wire from the climate control to the dme -with engine on and ac engaged you should see a pwm voltage -that would prove climate control is calling for a/c .

Quotes source post: 18173147

I got that fittjng from Grainger. There is also Reddot and ProAir for automotive, industrial ac. Its not easily found but its out there..

Plumber452 -you probably know this but need to push auto button on climate control to engage a/c .I am assuming compressor is good since you had to run to fill system .Don't know how you are engaging fans but with a/c on low speed fan should be engaged .

Looking at the AC system and radiator fans. Found the AC trigger wire in the engine bay, I had tucked it into the harness sheathing. Green wire with yellow stripe. I also found the Porsche high side AC hose. I�m going to attempt to have a local AC shop make me a custom hose. If not I might cut and TIG weld. I found the #12 pin blue wire on the top X51 plug. This had 12v signal with ign on. This is not routed to the alternator but I don�t have a battery light on the dash. I do, however, have a CEL which is likely from the tach not working. I believe the DME needs a crank signal from the LS engine to work the tach and allow the DME to trigger the radiator fans. I have the P car water temp sensor in the LS1 head. I also have new radiator fans and resistors installed. I jumped each relay and confirmed all 4 fan speeds work in the relay module (2 hi and 2 lo). Other 996.1 LS swap guys say their fans work via the sensor but mine do not appear to be working when the engine is hot. The gauge does read lower than the LS sensor shows on the Holley Terminator X readout. I recall the 996 fan kick on temps being somewhat high and others have ran wires from their LS standalone harness to bypass the P car relays. I might have to give this a try to activate my fans and control the kick on temps myself. I�m looking for advice on where to splice into the chassis wiring with my tach signal. I have a tach converter box to convert 24x signal to 58x essentially.

The blue wire needs to be connected to the alternator -if gm alternator would be the l terminal .( best to verify terminals by your specific model ) .This will make dash light function and also enable abs and climate control . Pins 35 and 36at dme activate fans ye/gn wires .35 is low 36 is high .They ground the fan relays for activation .No need to bypass relays .The engine speed sensor is a white wire to pin 78 at dme .

With limited knowledge of how the dme is programmed it would seem prudent to have the terminator control fans and fuel .I don't know what the dme will do once it has a run signal and no other sensors input .It could be a recipe to turn it into a random cel generator and limit functions .I don't know if a/c will work or not .Others have reported it will - I am skeptical - it would be good to find someone who has done it successfully .Bypassing the dme for a/c with a functioning climate control is not hard .

Thank you so much for the pin outs! The blue wire had 12v already with ign on - seems like it wouldn�t be good to supply 12v from the alt post? My dash light isn�t on with vehicle running. I�ll attach pics of the dash and x51 plug with blue wire. For fans, the Holley Terminator X send ground signal to activate fans also. Seems I could just tie those two signal wires (high and low) to pins 35 and 36 at the DME and control fan kick on temps via Holley software. I�ll wire in the tach signal converter and send to pin 78. I�m feeling under the weather but will do this when I�m up to it. Thank you again! Yeah I agree, Term controls fuel now and I�d like it to control fans too. I�m working with another LS swapped 996 on the AC bits and will update this thread while we�re working it out.

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You have a Tip?! I guess I’d missed that. I thought no one had LS swapped a Tiptronic before. Maybe I’m thinking about the 944 LS swaps. As far as I know there are no 944 automatic LS swaps. I think I’d prefer a tip with a 996 LS swap.

Tip is looooong gone

The alternator light does not appear to be working .Key on engine off light should be illuminated .With key on - the blue wire will have 12 volts and when connected to the proper alternator terminal will be grounded and turn the light on . .With engine running the alternator terminal will turn 12 volt positive and light will go out . That wire is also the engine run signal for abs operation and climate control . The easy button for the fans is to just home the relay activation wires to the terminator .

Whew. I finally got around to wiring up the cooling fans to the Terminator X controls and the tach. This wasn�t all that bad, but I wanted to make it a clean install. I bought a metri pack 150 4 pin connector and used the power tap plug on the Terminator X harness for power and ground to the converter box since this plug is right next to where the tach converter box will live. The fan wiring was straightforward and easy. Should�ve done that long ago. I tapped into the 78 pin on the DME but no tach movement on the gauge cluster. Weird. So I take the blue wire with white stripe and go directly to pin 78, bypassing the converter box. Nothing. I check power and ground, good to go. Still scratching my head on this one. I�m waiting for Improved Racing to restock their oil coolers. I�ll be putting their largest cooler at the back of the car with a cutout for cooling. This, combined with an inline thermostat and ceramic coating on the exhaust, should lower temps while racing to normal levels. I also ordered some small bullet mufflers to splice into the exhaust to take it down a few decibels. Although the existing mufflers are big, it�s a little too much for every day driving. I bought double wall stainless tips to give it a bit more flash and a refined look. I�ll be measuring line lengths for the AC setup at the same time. I�m slow to get stuff done right now due to the move and work building up - but I�m gaining some momentum finally.

Pin 80 (vi/gn ) is the tach signal to the instrument cluster and several other subsystems .I connected my tack converter to this and works fine .Don't know what you would need to do to use pin 78 -

Did this tonight, no tach! Very strange. I�m trying to debug and troubleshoot it. I�ll report back if I can find anything. edit: I got it. Switch 7 on the converter box needs to be ON for anything under 14 volts. The supply is 12v from the Terminator X. Tach works and it is accurate! Woohoo! I�ll wrap this up and start the exhaust and AC work finally.

Any ideas 180 headers fit with the Dailey or Aviaid dry sump setups ? Whats the tubing diameter ? Dailey https://www.drysumpsolutions.com/pro...ge/ls-race-pan Aviaid - specifically C mount with a 4 stage pump. I would prefer the Dailey for cost but it requires a line for each scavenge on the sump to the pump... Lot going on. https://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store...e-systems.html

Spicy! 180 headers should fit no problem. The 180s were designed for dry sump pans and pumps in mind. Since you�re not interested in AC, I�d just run a dry sump pump in the OEM AC pump location and the ICT alternator mount for alternator. Run the ATI harmonic balancer (I think that�s the brand) with the integrated sump belt pulley and you�ll have a sweet setup. I have 1 set of 180 headers made up and waiting for a new home.

@De Jeeper Did you buy the burga clip pliers for this connection? At $260, I�m hoping to borrow some and donate to a fellow Rennlister�s beer fund rather than spend that cash for a one time use tool. Updates coming soon, I�ve been busy during the holidays and I�m wrapping up the latest upgrades.

I just have a racheting oetiker clamp pliers. Similar to the pex plumbing one. U just have to be careful because u can sqeeze too hard and snap the clamp. Thats y there is i regular hose clamp in that union.

Been busy tinkering on the LS 996 and am now burnt out. I will post some updates below. Car is softly for sale, looking to part ways with my projects and focus on some other areas in life at the moment. Asking $30k OBO for the car as-is. I�ve sunk at least 30k into it in the last few years. It�s fast as hell but I�d like to get back into regular surfing, mountain biking, and some other sports. I�m also shifting back into off-roading with Raptor which lost its engine a week ago. So I need make some adjustments and this 996 project needs to go. I pulled the exhaust and ceramic coated the headers. I also added smaller resonator style bullet mufflers after the existing mufflers. It�s quieter now and a lot less heat in the engine bay. I also added a LN Engineering water to oil cooler with a stainless mount behind the rear bumper and tire. It tucks neatly into the area where the OEM mufflers used to live. I used all AN fittings and lines again and it�s a super clean install. I�m very pleased with the outcome! I designed new offset washers for the subwoofer box mount and has them 3D printed. They came out perfect! The mounts themselves were a couple degrees off, so those are being recut right now. This will close out the subwoofer box mount. While the exhaust was out I tidied up quite a few areas. I replaced the 20AN line on the passengers side with a longer hose so the line is tucked away now, leaving more room for the air filter. I drilled holes for the air filter to pull fresh air out the deck lid. I mounted the MAT sensor in the air filter base for a nice clean install. I also found some tiny hood latch buttons from Quik Latch and installed those. Now the deck lid is flush with the tail lights and rear quarters, it came out very clean. I replaced the cheap Canton dipstick with a new freshly black anodized Lokar dipstick and it�s muuuuuch cleaner. While I was in there I also installed two Spal puller fans to push fresh air through the bottom of the engine bay. I need to finish wiring these. I install a new coolant level sensor and cleaned up a few of the hose clamps with Gates heat shrink style clamps for a cleaner look. All in all it�s very clean looking now! AC hoses have been custom made by Cold Hose in Florida. They were easy to work with and welded a fitting and crimped hoses to my existing Porsche lines. I also bought a low mile C5 Corvette bracket, pulley, and tensioner since mine was crusty. Those early C5 parts are spendy! AC should be able to be installed and working in the coming weeks. I have a T96 steering wheel on order that was supposed to be here weeks ago. Still hoping it arrives this month. Hah! Car just needs seats, wheels/tires, and paint and body work. Everything else is basically done or only needs minor tweaking. I�ve taken this car a long way and wish I had the motivation to finish it out properly but I�ve moved on. Someone take it off my hands!

Bummed you are letting it go but wish you good luck with the sale none the less - Headers and the oil cooler install look great !

Thanks Jason. It�s been a fun car and it�s incredibly fast. The oil cooler and headers came out really great, thanks for the kind words. Priorities shift and I really want to get into a turbo or GT car next if it�s in the cards. I�d like to focus more on the driving and less on the wrenching this time.

I�m looking for an LS swapped 996. Where is car located?

Quotes source post: 18659458

Hi, the car is in the Seattle area on the east side (Bellevue/Kirkland area). Send me a PM if you'd like to see it.

T96 steering wheel is in and�MUCH better! Already loving the shape and grip. I added an oil cap breather with one way valve. This helps the engine dissipate unwanted crankcase pressure at high rpms that is difficult for the factory LS6 PCV to handle. I also tidied up the engine bay a bit more and am really pleased with the refined look. I sometimes wish the 20AN fittings were black but knowing they�re NASCAR takeoffs is cooler IMO. I had to take this shot before I buttoned up the crash bar and bumper. Always my favorite shot. I had the AC hoses made up for the car finally. Cold Hose in Florida did a great job for a very reasonable price. I�d definitely recommend them and use them again. I just put the car back together but I think I�ll pull the bumper and crash bar soon to throw on the LS1 Corvette compressor and OEM mount with the new hoses. I have a buddy who can charge the system and another who has dealt with engaging the compressor in the LS swapped 996.1 AC system. Hopefully this summer I�ll have AC! Add a heat shield for my intake and I�ll be ready to rip. The last item I took care of this past week is the subwoofer box. I made new mounts for it and 3D printed offset washers to mount to the rear seat latch mounts. It worked out great! I�ll pull the mounts off and paint them as soon as I can paint match the metallic dark gray used in the interior.

Quotes source post: 18204772

A year later I finally circled back to the AC. I have the compressor and lines installed, and the system was charged and held 100% pressure. Blue wire referenced above needs to be routed to L on GM alt still, but I simulated it by grounding it while key on engine off. Here�s the dash - very different than before. With snowflake on and HVAC on auto, I see a max of 0.028v at the compressor trigger wire (green/yellow). If I ground blue wire above, goes down to 0.016. Is the DME searching for engine RPM and not seeing it? I think this goes back to my post last year trying to feed the tach conversion box output to the DME rpm signal wire. Any other suggestions? Really want the AC to work soon, it�s in the mid 80s here now.

Climate control needs to see 12 volts on blue wire to activate ac .I bypassed dme not sure what dme signals dme needs to activate compressor ,The climate ac control wire to dme is 12 volt pwm if you choose to bypass dme .If the terrminator has pwm input slot and ac control logic better way to go .

Quotes source post: 18911140

Yeah I've seen this kit here, but I'm saving a standalone AC module for a last resort. https://www.currentperformance.com/s...tor-ac-module/ I sent 12v to blue wire with the engine running, no change in voltage to the AC compressor trigger wire (green/yellow). I recall going through the rpm signal from the converter box to the tach, and splitting it to pin 78. Pin 78 is Signal, rpm crankshaft position sensor, and I'm thinking the next step is to split the signal again so the DME thinks the engine is running, send 12v to blue wire. If this doesn't work, I'll go back to the DME and look at signal from Pin 62 - A/C compressor On and Pins 68 - Position switch/clutch switch and Pin 69 - A/C compressor requirement. Does anyone know if pin 68 is related to AC clutch and switch? Seems so.

Sorry still trying to find a few minutes to dig into this for u. What year is your dme? Also how do u drive the front rad fans, ls controler or dme? I assume the high/ low pressure switches r still wires to the dme?

3 dme pins are the basic ac control .pin 14 ground signal from pressure switch-pin 69 climate control turn on ac -pin 62 ground signal to ac relay .Don't think the ac kit you reference will help -looks like a total rewire and does not handle thepwm signal from climate control .The easy button is put a ground switch on the pin 62 wire and activate ac relay .I would still explore if terminator can handle a pwm signal and have a seamless operation

the switch would go between pin 14 wire and pin 62 wire .

Quotes source post: 18203599

I have a very similar setup, i kept the 996 engine harness and just used the connections i needed and deleted the rest. I T-eed the Pcar crank sensor input on the harness to the LS crank position sensor. I also used the terminator to take over the fan controls.

Quotes source posts: 18913019, 18913046, 18913265, 18913458

Thank you! DME is a 99. Front fans driven by the Terminator X PCM. Yeah, high/low switches still go to the DME. Got it, thank you. So pin 14 is the switch signal, that's good to know. Pin 69 would have a signal from AC snowflake button. Pin 62 is another ground signal - sounds like DME would trigger this and that's what I'm missing to trigger AC compressor. Yeah, the AC kit I linked would be a total rewire and I don't want to deal with that if I can help it. Terminator X could give a +5v pwm signal I believe. The Porsche signal is 12v, unsure if pwm. Unsure how to get the Terminator to trigger 5v pwm based on Porsche trigger signal from either pin 62 or pin 69. I can pull back the subwoofer box and carpet to manually ground pin 62 and see if I get 12v at the green/yellow wire in engine bay. Seems like if I use the Porsche 12v signal I'd need to step down to 5v . I have a diode on the way for the 2 pin GM plug pigtail as well. Thanks for chiming in. I also used the 996.1 engine harness and deleted the extra connections. When you T-eed the Pcar crank sensor input to the LS crank sensor, did it make the tach work? That should be pin 78 if your car is also a 996.1. I went straight to the tach at pin 80. I believe we want to feed pin 78 the LS crank signal, but when I did this last time it did not show on the tach. Pin 80 is speed signal output, and pin 79 is speed signal from ABS control module. I don't want to tap into pin 79, I want the DME to control ABS, but pin 79 likely needs signal from 78 to run properly and this should flow to pin 79 and 80. I'll test this soon.

the snow flake is a 12 volt pwm signal .If the terminator has provision for a 12 volt pwm and can convert to a to either a ground signal or a voltage signal you have options.Pin 14 is ground from low pressure sensor and is insurance that the system has freon .Example -wire from pin 14 to new relay pins 86 and 30 -if positive voltage from terminator to pin 85 .Pin 87 ground signal to ac relay to turn on compressor .

Mk1 the dme does not control the abs. There is no canbus. That is just a signal output to the dme and should not effect the abs. I do beileve the dme has to see rpm but it doesnt matter what rpm to kick the compressor. If the dakota digital allows the dash tach to read then its corrected so u ahould be able to send that corrected signal to the dme? Or is the issue that the dme changes the signal to the dash and the dakota wont send the correct signal to the dme?

On wide open throttle I believe the dme shuts off the ac compressor ..How does it know ?The point being there is some code in there that is monitoring something .The other consideration is the fans -when ac on the fans need to be running.

Quotes source posts: 18913719, 18913925

Got it. I bought a 12v to 5v step down for the GM compressor, I'll need this if using the Porsche signal. Terminator X can trigger a ground, 5v, or 12v signal in the outputs, so I think it can trigger anything we want. Ex: TermX ground signal to pin 87 and 14. This would trick the system, not sure if this is a great solution as I believe there is a separate fan for the condenser that also needs to be triggered....unless this does that as well. Ahh, got it, good to know about the MK1 DME and ABS. Yes, I want to send the corrected tach signal to the DME, I believe this is pin 78. Last time I tried this, I didn't get tach working, but I recall the box wasn't setup right anyway and I think I should try this again.

There r low and high speed thresholds for the rad fans through the dme associated with the dme. I would guess that the logic could be entered into the terminator x? Basic math channel saying if condition 1 (ac switch on) = fan on low speed and if coolant temp > (x...dont know factory value) = high speed

If you used the terminator x for the snowflake wire to turn on the compressor you will need to add a new relay because you want to keep the low pressure ground signal as a safety measure .The terminator would activate the new relay -the pin 14 wire would be the ground source for the new relay to activate the porsche ac relay .

Quotes source posts: 18914599, 18915454

Yeah termX is running the fans based on LS sensors and grounding out the relays at the DME. I found the inputs and outputs on the TermX software and was playing with it the other night. There's a couple funny logic paths that I don't quite understand, but I need to do a bit more research and find time to tear apart the car. Now that I have another DD again, I can get started. Yeah, this is the plan. Hit snowflake, take signal from this wire as input for TermX, then TermX output can be run to either a) compressor directly (too much current I think, 4.5A for compressor and max TermX is 3A) or b) run TermX output wire to AC compressor trigger wire (ground activation of relay, I believe). I'm leaning towards B, essentially bypassing the DME with the TermX computer. I think the Porsche compressor trigger is 12v, and I have a 5v step down now to route in between the GM compressor. The low pressure ground signal - is this just a signal from the sensor that says system has pressure and refridgerant? If so, I think I can just find this pin (it was referenced earlier in the thread) and tie that as input to the TermX. I think I could avoid another relay doing it this way as the logic on the TermX computer will protect the compressor trigger in a low pressure situation and the OEM relay is still protecting the compressor circuit. Any issues you see with that? Thanks for your help fellas!

B is good - I don't know the terminator x capability so can't comment on low pressure ground signal connection to terminator x .

Tore into the wiring last night for AC. Pin 69 is a PWM signal from snowflake button, and that worked as expected, so I will use that as an input to the TermX. Pin 62 is ground signal to trigger 12v+ for compressor clutch - this also worked as expected as I saw 13.X volts at the AC wire in the engine bay. Pin 62 will be a ground signal output from TermX. The AC wire in the engine bay will go to the step converter. The step down converter I found for 5A is hyuuuuuuuge so I need to find a place for that to live before I do the final wiring and test the system. Also bought diodes for the GM compressor pigtail as they're a common mod to protect the compressor internal circuit. Waiting on a few connectors to be delivered then I can finish the wiring and test the system via a manual ground of pin 62 to engage the compressor clutch. I am also going to fix the ground on blue wire for the dash via the L pin on the alternator, I think this is necessary to have the PWM signal from the snowflake button. I am also going to send a rpm signal to pin 78 as a mirror from pin 80 (tach) in case the DME wants to see this for other functions. I'll post again once I have more to share. I'll makea quite diagram with wire colors and post the TermX programming once I have it done. Thanks again for the help

Fyi, I have been using one of these in my pickup for 10 years because the ecm output is bad. Small and it works but 3a. Amazon Amazon

Quotes source post: 18930255

Thanks! I'll save this one. I think the GM compressor output can be as high as 4.5A, but that was from a quick search, 4.2A here and 20A here . I think the initial pull might be 20A to start the clutch, which makes sense, but unsure how my little 5A box my little 5A box will like that.

Quotes source post: 18930309

No way thats a 5v output pushing 20amp. The 5v is a signal wire for the computer that tells the computer to trip the relay, sanden compressor clutches r all 12v. I may be wrong but have never seen what u described. I think u need to revisit. Im at watkins glen till monday so i still dont have time to dif deeper......maybe next week.

Quotes source post: 18930976

Did a little digging, yes, I believe the compressor is 12v. Unsure why I thought it was 5v pmw, but I'm glad you said something! Messed with the TermX logic and inputs/outputs. Have everything wired across pins 14, 62, and 69. I'll post the results soon. Just verifying the wiring of the AC kick trigger to go along with the other inputs and outputs so the TermX will trigger the fans and know when to shutdown the AC. After testing the setup, hitting snowflake triggers the compressor. My only issue so far is I don't think I'm getting a ground signal from pin 14. There's continuity across that wire at the DME, but when I tell the TermX to look for ground, it doesn't see it. If the sensor isn't working or there's not enough pressure (aka, no freon), would the sensor send a voltage or just be an open circuit? This detail is my only hangup and I need this before I can finalize and tidy up the work. I'll post a full rundown of how I accomplished everything including the programming and logic of the TermX once I get this detail ironed out.

Yes, no pressure or low pressure would create an "open" ground. Put some nitrogen in the system to test for leak and it will allow the compressor to turn on. 50lbs should be enough

Quotes source post: 18936936

System has pressure and freon, when running the compressor via ground to pin 62, air blows cold, no issues. There's continuity at pin 14 even with key off, so something isn't right. System was just charged less than 2 weeks ago.

pin 14 should always be grounded with gas in the system .no gas pin 14 open

Ok by your comment i thought it was empty. I cant even find the pressure switch ony drawings.

Pressure switch, if I'm not mistaken, is under the front hood, on passenger's side, under the cowl brace. I'll be out of town for a few days then I can circle back on this. Hoping it's an easy fix. Right now I'm wishing I just bit the bullet and bought a GT3....lol.

Need some advice on wheels and offsets. I have a set of Fikse FM10 centers and access to new barrels and lips. I want to run the widest tire I can in the back and a decently wide tire up front. This car needs traction, badly, with all this torque from the LS1. Something like a 305/35 out back and 245/40 up front. would like a ~26� diameter for the rear as a I could use taller gearing and a taller tire will help. 12� wide or more. From my research, and available barrels, here�s what I come up with for the Fikse specs. Could I go wider and kore aggressive, especially in the rear? Could I run a 2� or even a 2.5� lip? I think going to a 12� wide rear wheel would open up more tire options. Front: 18x9 +50 (1� lip / 8� barrel) Rear: 18x11 +63 (1.5� lip / 9.5� barrel) Thoughts? Bad idea? I don�t mind trimming. Jason has been an excellent resource and I want to maximize my contact patch so I used his e88 offsets as a starting point. Thanks!!

Quotes source post: 19043538

You should look at Hbdunn. He has 315 on 12s in the back on a narrow body. Not sure his offsets.

Quotes source post: 19043660

Thanks! I looked into his wheels and couldn't find a backspacing. I did see a 996 with 335/30R18 out back in person at The Shop in Seattle. It was a Turbo car, but might be able to squeeze this under my C2 with trimming and fender rolling. After going back and forth with Phil at VR wheels, this is what I think I'm going with. If anyone sees an issue with this width and offset, please let me know! I plan to order the barrels and lips by next week. 18x9 +50 (1" Lip and 8" Barrel) 18x12 +50 (2.5" Lip and 9.5" Barrel) I used this thread as a reference. These are 997 NB fitment specs, but I think it's very close to 996, correct me if I'm wrong! https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-fitments.html

As I remember HB told me he was running 68 offset with a 10 mm spacer for Effective offset 58. He said there was minor rubbing at the liner. Three degrees camber.

Quotes source post: 19057614

Ahh thank you! I don't mind trimming the liner. I think I'll be fine at ET 50 after seeing someone running ET45 Turbo wheels on a 996 C2. Just need to confirm the width isn't a problem, but I doubt it as seeing there's guys running more positive offset with a 12x18 and 315/30.

Quotes source post: 18936980

Still trying to figure this out - the pressure switch gives me 1.24v with ignition on. Ignition off, it jumps to 4v then slowly creeps down to 0. Unplugging the connector to the switch gives the same 1.24v from pin 14. Very odd. The other thing that is a concern is the PWM signal from snowflake is making the 996 AC compressor relay trigger on and off over and over. Eventually this relay will die, and being that its under my subwoofer box, I don't want to have to replace it often. I'm looking into a 12v PWM converter to 12v analog.

Quotes source post: 19057645

I don't want to lead you astray but it looks like Apex recommends 65 to 68 ET for 12-in wheel and looking at my current setup I think they might be right. Not saying 50 won't work but it might be a stretch in more ways than one, especially if you're putting a big tire on it. Thought you might want to be aware. Let us know what you do.

Quotes source post: 19066605

I saw that! No worries. I actually used their setup as a baseline. After researching, 50 ET is the minimum you can use without rolling fenders when using beefy tires. For my setup I�m looking at 315/30 and 335/30 rears only at this point and others have run a similar offset (45-50 ET) with the same tires without issue. Some have even ran a 30 ET and rolled fenders, but had some rubbing. The link above from the 997 forum had a lot of good info and actual numbers with feedback. Unfortunately, there�s just a lot of Rennlisters regurgitating old/bad information and it�s misleading. Most people run a ET 63 due to availability and a slightly tucked look with less camber. I plan to increase camber anyway, so I went with ET50.

Quotes source post: 19066596

None of this should be that hard. I wish i had some more time to spend on this. Maybe u could find an analog hvac controler and it will be easier to set up?

Doesn't the terminator have provisions for a pwm signal and ac compressor output ? A simple pwm conversion will also work :diode 3k resistor 2uf capacitor to ground .Pick the signal off the resistor capacitor junction point .

Pin 14 is a ground with key on it will meter that way .Key off there is probably some residual voltage floating around .If compressor works with the porsche ac relay -then ok .3 good reasons to use the terminator: fans -with ac on fans need to run , compressor shut off on acceleration and idle kick up with ac on .

Quotes source posts: 19066939, 19066960, 19067282

I agree, shouldn�t be that hard. Something is amiss. Pin 14 should be giving ground signal. I�m going to look for a leak although the AC blows cold when manually triggering the compressor. I found a $5 PWM to analog converter on Amazon. I was going to make one but this is too easy. yes, TermX has those provisions and I�ve programmed the inputs and outputs. They work fine, but kind of limited on converting the PWM signal input. I found a $5 pwm to analog converter on Amazon for wiring backup cameras to 18+ cars. I had looked up the schematic to make one, essentially a low pass filter. Thanks for your suggestion! Yeah I see the residual voltage. Key on ground doesn�t happen though. Occasionally will get 9v at pin 14. This is strange. Pin 69 is labeled �69 - A/C compressor requirement� and I�m curious if this needs a ground or 12v/pwm signal too. Pin 14 is labeled medium pressure switch, curious if there�s another. Yes, I�ll be adding high fan kick on when AC snowflake button is pressed. Ac shutdown also to be added. I don�t think idle kick is needed due to idling at 850 and only dropped 20 rpm when compressor clutch engaged but it�s possible to add to output in TermX. It�s actually pretty easy to program the inputs and outputs. I�ll post how it�s done after this is all figured out. I�m going to dig through the wiring diagram later on.

Quotes source post: 19067346

easy test pins 2 and 3 on switch closed with system pressurized .

Quotes source post: 19067375

I'll check this and report back. Thanks! Wiring diagram: from here: http://arma.free.fr/porsche/996/GT3/...01999-2000.pdf

Apologies the pics are so large! Still working on the AC. I haven�t driven the car since July due to work and vacation. Fortunately I made notes and picked up where I left off. I�ll be finishing the AC wiring in the next couple weeks when I have some spare time. The big update is the exhaust. I�ve had a small drone at 1400-1800 rpm from the early design of the Dr Gas mufflers. He said this was a small design change and the new mufflers don�t have this issue. After looking at my options, I decided to design a set of Helmholtz resonators that would tuck behind the bumper covers. I wish my exhaust weighed less, but maybe I�ll make a shorty exhaust just for the track later on. After a quick test drive, the resonator works as intended for each bank and I no longer have a loud droning exhaust at low rpm. Lastly�in order to hit the track, all items in the car must be secured. My amp was just floating in the frunk, that�s where the previous owner left it�and that�s where I left it, knowing I wanted to fix it. Well, now is the time because I don�t wanna ditch my subwoofers just to hit the track. Sure, extra weight, but I�m lazy and I just wanna drive the car and enjoy it without much change. Amazon had a deal on an infinity 6001 amplifier for cheap-ish, it�s much smaller, and looks good. Problem is, it�s not quite small enough to stash behind the spare tire and there�s a tab raised off the shelf behind the tire. So, I designed a bracket that holds the amp at 45 degrees and points the wires to the cavity behind/under the spare. It�s a much cleaner mount and hides the wires. I had this laser cut and CNC formed in brushed stainless to match all the other brackets. I�d like to blacken all the brackets to match the interior soon. More on that later. Like I said, I�m lazy, and I�ve now incorporated this laziness into my designs. Since this bracket is 45 degrees and I want the hardware to be hidden, plus there�s a small sheet metal shelf on the shelf for the OEM CD changer mount, I want the bottom of the bracket to rest on the shelf and the bracket will mount with two nutserts to the back wall of the frunk. I access the two nutserts before the amp is mounted through the large cutout in the center of the bracket, then the amp itself hides them. More nutserts mount the amp to the bracket and foam strips will isolate the amp for cushioning. Super easy to mount the bracket, super easy to mount the amplifier = ultimate lazy.

U want to make another one of those mounts? I used the factory mount for my kenwwod amp and it fits but it backward and i cant easily get to the adjustent *****.

Quotes source post: 19178684

Yup, easy to do. Do you want brushed SS, mild steel, or blackened SS? I'll PM you. If anyone else wants one, just post here or PM me and I'll do a small batch at my laser and CNC shop. This is the Amp, for those wondering. REFERENCE 6001A from Infinity Kappa. I believe the 9001 is the same dimensions. https://www.infinityspeakers.com/amp...ENCE6001A.html

With the exhaust fixed, I turned to the interior again. I removed all the early 2000s era window tint....what a job. Cross "window tint installer" off my list of possible future careers. I had to lay inverted, Top Gun style, across the back seats with a heat gun and a razor blade to scrape off the rear window. It's all off, and I'm unsure if I'll put more in. This car does get kinda hot in the summer, but I want to be able to see my surroundings during night drives, so I'll need to weigh the options. At least I have AC (mostly) now. So...why remove the tint? Well, I'm returning the car to the original rainforest metallic green color! I found a pair of mirrors that are very close to the original green and bought them. The original mirrors were trashed and this is much easier. My plan is to use a vinyl wrap for most of the car and only paint the very difficult body panels/pieces, if I must. I already ordered the wrap and it's arrived, and started preparing the body. The other cool piece to this...the wrap is an EXACT match to the original color! I still had an issue with the colors of the replacement panels that the previous owner(s) installed. The car had clearly been in a small front end collision: the front bumper cover is yellow, passenger fender is silver, and the passenger side of the hood lip that follows the hood is raised 1/4" and the body line doesn't match. I found a green hood and fender to match the original color, and a black front bumper and they should arrive this week. This is important to me, as I don't want other colors besides black when viewing behind seams or opening doors/trunks/lids. So when I pop the hood, I'll see green underneath the hood. When I pop the fuel door, I'll see green underneath. These details matter to me and I want to feel like the car is one color, so this will accomplish that. Inside of the door revealed brand new paint to compare with the wrap...I love the color! At the same time, I replaced ALL of the little snap fit plastic pieces in the door panels, replaced the driver's side window regulator motor, and all the little hardware, including seals and grommets. 2nd photo is a hidden plastic screw and grommet that most people don't install but I wanted this to match OEM as much as possible. I find those details fun to track down sometimes. Now I have much better fitment of the door panel and it doesn't wobble and flap anymore! I think this will help quiet the car a bit too. New on left, old on right.

Onto the wheels... I have a buddy that owns a local P car maintenance and upgrade shop. Upon sorting through his stash of old racing parts for Porsches, I found a few Fikse FM10s centers that had been part of a PNW race team and has some heritage through the 996. Fikse is USA made, although now is owned by a Canadian company, it started near Seattle, then moved to CA, then eventually Canada. All of the parts I have are USA made and are originals from the 2000s era, which is an extra cool factor for me. This car is nostalgic to that 2000s theme, and although BBS e88s are the rage right now, these wheels hit the mark for me in a different way. The only issues were....these centers looked like someone dropped them out the back of a truck on the highway and let them skid to stop. Oh, and there weren't any barrels, and only 2 lips that would work for my 996. I started calling around to find shops that had the barrels and lips. I got 3 or 4 shops that would all recommend the next place, call that new place, and recommend another shop. Finally I got VR wheels on the phone and Phil helped me sort out what I needed. I chose an aggressive offset, because I like that look and plan to run 2.5+ degrees of camber anyway. Due to the torque of the LS1, I also need some FAT meat out back, and everybody loves a girl with thicc hips, so I'll roll the fenders as much as I can to fit some decent rubber in the fenders. All the parrotting on Rennlist claimed you can't fit a +50 ET on a 996, but it's been done many times and this shouldn't be an issue. Wheel specs below. Front: 18x9 +50 (1" lip / 8" barrel) Rear: 18x12 +50 (2.5" lip / 9.5" barrel) I sent one of the centers to Phil, they programmed their CNCs, and machined my barrels and lips. All in all, it took about 3-4 weeks with shipping and everything which is pretty fast IMO. It was all through email and everything is working as intended so far. Price was fair, and quality is quite good. I'd definitely do business with VR again. Mocked up the rear, just to see what I'm up against. You can see the aggressive offsets, but the camber was essentially at 0 in these pics and the suspension starts tucking the wheels upon uptravel. You can make out the marks and damage to the centers, but considering these were on a racecar, I can live with it. I still think its too cool that these wheels are getting a 2nd life on my weekend GT3ish LS1 996. Don't mind my shop crocs, just trying to be as flashy as possible in case some hot dudes roll by and catch a glimpse Side profile....yes, I'm diggin it Onto the condition of the centers...these needed some help. A local wheel repair shop helped me sort out the centers and cleaned them up nicely. I love gold centers, but for this car, I wanted to differentiate from the e88 crowd with their gold centers. I chose a semi gloss black which matches the new Fikse center caps and valve stems. I'm very happy with the wheels and I still need to finish building them, but I couldn't wait, the excitement was too much. Anyway, here's a sneak peek! The wife didn't mind me assembling the first few in the living room...I picked a good one One of the rears assembled. These cleaned up nicely! Next to the OE Turbo Twists...which will be getting a refresh as well. Can't wait to get these mounted to some new rubber and set the camber. It'll probably take me over a month to get all that done, because I'll be busy wrapping the car and swapping the gauge cluster. This'll have to suffice for now, but at least I can see all that work finally coming to a close. These wheels took a LOT of coordination to get done, and because I wanted to meet the needs of my car with all this torque, I had to make my own set. All of the sets I found for $1500 weren't going to give me enough tire in the rear, so this was my only option. I have access to spare parts, which is great, because I don't want wheels that are too rare to go racing. I might swap a set of Apex just for abusive track days, we'll see. The turbo twists will likely be refreshed in gray, with a polished ring out the outer lip. If you look back in this thread, there's a white 996 C2 with black turbo twists with a polished lip, and I really like that look. I'll run those wheels for daily driving and winter, with these Fikse as my track and show wheels. Mmmmm.....get a load of those hot crocs + socks in the reflection. Usually you have to subscribe to my Onlyfans for that sweet sweet action. You lucky little perverts get a preview to my full frontal full fetish fornication feature that'll be on sale for $2.99 Christmas Eve to pay for these wheels. Don't wait, subscribe now! Only 700 spots left!

I love that green....

Nice crocs. I think Santa is bringing me some fancy new age colors for working on my 996 also. Love that you're going with the wheels that way. I'd have to say that's a lot of lip. Pow! They look awesome and you're going to need a lot of rubber anyway so good on you. If you can make that work then my little project will be a relative chip shot. I'm leaning away from the gold centers too. Can't believe how nice that wrap matches.

Plus, I'm with you on the tint thing. Just got done with peeling off all of mine and I'm still folded up like a pretzel. But that doesn't matter, my glass looks good and all the black border dots and defroster wires survived.

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thanks, me too! It�s such a rich and beautiful color. It really pops in the sun. thank you! lol yeah the crocs are pretty sweet, can�t say I hate em anymore. I wanted that deep offset dish look on the wheels, I think I got it. Yeah tint removal on a 911 should be an Olympic sport. I�ll probably put on a ceramic tint for uv protection and heat dissipation.

Yes x100 to ceramic tint. Heat's one thing, but keeping UV off 20yo leather will help preserve it. This is also the first time I'm seeing 180deg headers on a 911 LS swap, that's absolutely sick. VR makes good wheel parts too, if you were on the original Fikse barrels I'd tell you to watch for cracking.

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Ceramic tint is the plan now. You guys have convinced me! Thank you! I�ve been designing another set of headers for the 911s but will wait until it�s almost done to reveal.

The new hood, fender, and front bumper arrived from Specialized German Recycling in CA and�.they�re trashed. Not only did it take an extra week to deliver them, SGR didn�t pack the box on the pallet very well. The bumper was just shoved in the box, creased on the two sides, and the fender placed on the inside of the bumper. The fender poked a few holes in the bumper and punctured a few spots. The bumper was a nice piece and it�s basically garbage now. The fender isn�t the right color and the clear coat is peeling. I was specific when I asked about condition and this is not the condition I was told these parts were in. Finally, the hood. Ah, the hood. This hood was the last green hood on car-part.com that matched my car. The hood on my car, although green underneath the black, is warped near the fender line due to the previous owners collision. So I was solving two problems in one. 100% paint match and the hood line would be fixed. Nope. Not anymore, they just shoved the hood in the box. The hood pierced the box and was curled back from being bashed against the wall of the truck. This hood wasn�t perfect but it was good enough and now it�s garbage too. Pics below. I�m being fully refunded but it�s a huge setback. I�ll just have to wrap my old body parts and keeping looking for new ones. Since this didn�t work out, and I�m getting my money back but don�t have a backup source for parts, I�ve decided to spend that coin on the suspension for the car. More on that later�I�m pretty excited about it though.

WOW worst case scenario, the hood is gnarly, sorry man. Who packs stuff like that!?!

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+1 Million ! Savages.

Where are you located? If you find stuff in S Florida, I�d be more than happy to check it out. I�ll be home in March.

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Sacramento is a special place, I usually make the 2-3hr drive to go there in person to make sure the yard can't screw things up. I've been sent completely wrong/not what I ordered stuff before, let alone damaged. @gtxracer I'm in San Jose, if you find a car you want parts pulled off of in the Bay Area, just ring me. I can store stuff in my side yard till you have time to come pick it up.

Remind me not to buy anything from specialized German until they figure out that it's a lot more profitable to package their products to survive transport and avoid refunds. Whichever guy boxed your stuff up definitely did not do anybody any favors. I don't suppose they're going to reimburse you for your time as well. Sorry to see that as I'm sure you were hoping those parts would solve some problems for you.

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Right?! It�s painfully obvious that this wouldn�t survive. Thanks for the kind words. �and rare parts too. From a place that specializes in German cars. I�m still dumbfounded. I�m in Seattle area, have some family in S Florida too. Thank you for offering to help! If I find any I�ll send you a message. This community is awesome. Yeah 2-3 hours isn�t bad! Sac is 12 hours from me�I�ve made that drive quite a few times with my old Jeep in tow going down to KOH. Reading the reviews for SGR, it seems like I would�ve had to make the drive to ensure the parts were good, like you said. And thank you! That�s really helpful and generous of you. I�ll keep that in mind. If a green 996 or 986 pops up, I�m all over it! Thank you, I appreciate it. Yeah�you�d think they would learn by now. Somehow they�re still in business and making money but I have to say�I�m worried they�re trashing just as many parts as they�re selling and essentially depleting the parts supply for our cars. In other news�these showed up today! Big thanks to Barry at Series4 for ordering quickly and getting them here in a two days. Prep has started on the paint and existing body panels. It�ll be a LOT more work thanks to the screw up by Specialized German Recycling�maybe if I procrastinate long enough I�ll find more green parts. lol Lots of imperfections in the paint of these two panels. Would�ve been REALLY helpful to have new ones.

Specialize German Recycling is less than 4 miles from my house, personally some of the prices they have are to pricey, more than happy to check out anything anyone needs from there.

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Tweaked my knee snowboarding and pretending I'm still 20. Been out of the shop for about a week but hobbling around again. I'm catching up on posts, so apologies if the timelines don't line up. ​​​​​​​Thank you! I'll definitely keep this in mind once another green hood and fender show up! I looked at designing my own alignment hub stands and it's not as cheap as I'd like, but stll considerable cost savings. It's about $650 for me to make a set, given I don't have my plasma CNC anymore and I'd be ordering hardware from McMaster. This DIY kit, however, is actually a good design and a pretty good deal from what I can see for about $850 all in: https://turtlelaboratories.com/produ...39592195096662 I'll probably wait to make these until I'm tired of paying for alignments at the local shops. I'm going to attempt to negotiate an annual fee since I'll want to change alignment a few times a year based on street or track use. Unless I get lazy....which is very possible....and I decide to use a street setup on the track and avoid alignment changes altogether. Hah! Anyway here's my design, a mix of others I saw. I'd probably make the bolt pattern plate a separate piece so I can swap it out for other vehicles easily. The bearings have a static load rating of 530 lbs each, there's 4 on each stand, so max load is 2120 lbs for each stand, 8480 lbs for total vehicle weight. Rolling load is quite a bit higher. I'll probably run these through FEA to see if they could actually withstand those loads, but for my little 3000 lb Porsche 911, these should work fine. Stand itself is 1/4" steel, laser cut and CNC bent, and the alignment plate itself is 3/16" aluminum for ease of use and storage. Alignment plate also has slots for tape measure, string cutouts, degree markings laser etched, and could be anodized for some bling. If anyone is interested in a pair or set, let me know and I'd do a group buy and maybe we can bring down the cost. No profits, just straight cost for everything. I've also been pondering how I can add a X or H pipe to the exhaust. I think an X pipe is out of the question due to space constraints. I'm sure I could do it, and even started it in CAD again, but an H pipe is much easier. I was considering a pipe across the back, with 2 more v band clamps. This should be pretty quick, and if I screw it up, it should be a quick fix. What's the thoughts on this? I've researched quite a bit, and looked through as many other 180 header builds as I could find and most experiment with X pipes and keep them, some don't. Curious as to everyone's thoughts and experiences on H and X pipes. H pipes typically offer more lower end grunt noises and X pipes offer more high end zings. Since my setup is already somewhat high pitched and sounds like two 4 cylinders, I think an H pipe would give it a more robust tone with a more exotic sound that I've been chasing. Current sound: You Tube More expected sound with X pipe You Tube H pipe vs X pipe video that really highlights the differences You Tube

Finally had some time in the shop amidst my own injuries and caretaking others. Half of the main car structure is ready for wrap - hood, pass fender, pass door, pass quarter panel, and roof - are all sanded, smoothed, and checked for gouges. I think I could just paint the car at this point, but the main drawback being the bumpers aren't exactly easy to paint, especially for a beginner with paint and body like me. For now, onward with the wrap and prep. I need to either A) find a shop to attempt to repair the front bumper or B) try to repair it myself. The creases worry me a bit more than the punctures. I might just get YouTube certified on plastic welding and DIY. I'm hoping to finish the rest of the main body panels tomorrow and possibly tear down and prep the deck lid. I need to do some minor trimming behind the deck lid outer panel so I can access the nuts that hold the body pin buttons and clean up the rough cuts with a flap wheel. Once that's done I'll paint the edges so they're not bare. I took some bondo to the hood to fill in the very slight dent leftover from PDR. I didn't have to do this for the pass fender, thankfully. After a few rounds of sanding, and some primer to cover any exposed metal, I think the main dent and paint repair is done, at least for this side of the car. Drivers door looks terrible...hopefully they're just superficial scratches into the black paint and not into the green underneath. Looks like crap but it's actually smooth and should take the wrap well. Anyway, here's photos of the current status of the car. Don't worry, I smoothed it out after this. As for the exhaust, I want to try to get that done while I continue work on the body. I designed what I wanted, and will be placing an order with Ace Race Parts since they're "local"-ish and I've stopped into their warehouse in the past. Before anyone asks why 2 bend joints instead of 1 in the middle - each only gives 0.6 degrees of movement...not a lot. Aligning all these parts each time is going to be a pain without some tolerance built into the system, plus I want double the amount of available movement during heat cycling. I give you the 180 degree H pipe

Another productive day in the shop. Exhaust parts are ordered, but I realized I need to do something about the O2 sensor. The H pipe will essentially delete the current bung. I'll have to figure this out before I start cutting metal. The main body is 100% prepped for the wrap. I still need to prep the bumpers and finish the rear deck lid prep, bondo, and sand. There's a small low spot after PDR on the deck lid that I want gone just in case I keep it forever. Rear bumper has spider cracks that I think are from using crap paint with crap prep. If I feel like another shop day tomorrow, I'll use a 220 grit pad and knock it down to the green layer. As for the front bumper, I think I can massage it back into place at the punctures, sand down the cracks to the bare plastic, and shoot some primer over those spots and wrap it. I realized after posting yesterdays update that I didn't post the most up to date pics. Here's what the car looked like when I started today, end of yesterday: Roof is the cleanest panel of them all as far as chip repair. Today's work lined out, lots of chips to knock down so they don't show up in the wrap...and a head start for when I finally decide to paint the car shop crocs baby! 1st session went well, clean, rinse, mark remaining spots...slow work The fenders on these cars take the brunt of the rocks and road debris. Both sides were tore up. Luckily it was just the first layer of crap black paint. This car actually has very straight panels and I feel fortunate. I only found 1 or 2 spots that actually went through the original green paint and would need a touch up if the original paint was there. Deck lid nearly complete. Two more small areas with chips and I need to bondo that bare area and knock down. All finished with the body, just needs a proper wash. More in the next post...

I'm doing my best to be as cool as @circuit.heart and @yaz996 with my Einstar 3D scanner Since I had the rear of the car in the perfect spot, I decided to try again on 3D scanning. I tested the scanner last week, making a quick and dirty scan of one of the fenders. It turned out pretty good! I had to use some of the sanding residue to highlight the surfaces so the scanner would pick it up. The Einstar software is actually really well thought out and user friendly, so it took almost no time to learn it. I watched a couple YouTube vids to get certified and went to work on the passenger fender and wheel. The scanner had a hard time with the flat panels and the dark paint, so I ordered some of this stuff this stuff to help. Spendy, but damn it works good. No issues after laying down some of this! It evaporates within 4 hours too...ultimate lazy! I love it. The setup, don't mind the clutter, I just wanted a nice shelf for the laptop and my garage isn't what it used to be. One day...it'll be my dream shop, but this is it for now. Spraying down the scan area (body panels and a bit of the engine bay only) Scan data took about 45 mins to acquire and another 20 to process As you can see I grabbed some of the exhaust and quarter panel details in case I wanted it. The software is very cool, it will simplify the STL file to make the file size managable and this means I can either sacrifice quality or delete extra data and save as a duplicate file to retain all the precious scan data. I chose to knock down quality since I'm using the scan data as a reference and it's not as crucial to have smooth panels as it is to know where components are located so I can design an airbox. The software also makes it easy to establish a coordinate system from the scan data. I'm very impressed with the Einstar software, it's so intuitive and easy to use. If I didn't know something, I just googled it and there it was - how to make a plane, line, and point on my scan data to make a coordinate system. Easy. Used the oil pan for plane and line, and used the center of the crank bolt for a point. Done. It's actually quite accurate, check it out. Yes, quality is low, like I said, I did this quickly to check my data and I only spent about 20 mins fooling with the import. All of this means I can finally design my air box, possibly with a ram intake. LS3 CAD laid in there as a comparison, gray is the scan- Scan data even has the water pump and lines populated so I know what I can move around in the engine bay and what has to be worked around. AC belt lines up nicely with the scan pulley location.

Just saying if your airbox happened to fit my pile of junk… I’d be ok with it

The Aesub spray makes a big difference. I've used both the blue and the orange. Another complimentary (and free) software worth toying around with is Meshlab ( https://www.meshlab.net/ ). I'll take scans of both individual components and the assemblies, then use Meshlab to combine/align everything. Nice thing is you can combine different resolutions, file types, etc. and output a very detailed/complete model. Also a good way to isolate sub-assemblies (i.e. exhaust only). One of these days I'll wrap up (and share) some of the work I did with my car/engine last year.

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If it works you'll be one of my testers I didn't know there was an orange version. I've used meshlab briefly, I'll download it again - thank you! I forgot about it and could really use the STL file management and reduction. I'd like to see more of your work, and really enjoy the hazard trim phone mount you made. A+!

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First draft of the airbox design - this is a very rough first attempt. This was an exploration of space and size of filter I could cram into the volume. After searching through the K&N catalog with my overall generic dimensions, I found a handful that would fit in the space: After playing with 3 different sizes and designing the filters in CAD, I threw together the quick housing and started laying it out in reference with the scan. I'm not happy with the slope of the airbox where it passes over the throttle body. Not great for consistent airflow, and I'm out of room. I may have to take the compromise and just go with it, but I'd like to research airflow and how a sloped airbox will pull the air. I've seen a few OEM airboxes with sloped bottoms, but I don't recall one with this steep of a slope and this close to the filter. Of course, I could put this design into CFD and run a flow simulation....which I might do....but again.....laziness. It'll be a tight fit to keep the OEM vented wing cover. I would design a snap-fit interface for the OEM cover but I also want to play with a ram scoop, both a high and low version. Low for street so it blends into the bodylines, and a high scoop for use with a wing for the track. We'll see, I mostly want to lower IATs and mount a puller fan to sweep air into the engine bay. Anyway, take a look and I'm open to feedback. View from behind the engine

Suspect the leftmost ~20% of that air filter won't be super useful with how shallow the box is at the tip. Space allowing, I would mirror the throttle inlet tube to form a Y and run two smaller airboxes instead. ​​​​​​ Fewer games to play with the depth, and you can get enough airflow with two easier to package smaller filters. Random thought, the E39 M5 has two small symmetrical airboxes that can feed a 400-450hp V8. I wonder if the filter dimensions could work here, you'd be able to use a proper Mann/Mahle paper filter instead of K&N.

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I think you�re right, air isn�t going to flow much at the shallow end of the box. I thought about two filters, and even saw the Hengst E1056L used in another custom airbox, so I�ll play around with those and look into other sizes that would fit. I referenced my conical air filter and calculated the surface area to be around 110 sq in. I think this is on the lower end of the spectrum for a healthy V8 engine, and the long thin filter above is around 125 sq in depending on actual filter area. I�d like more, and two separate filters might give me that. Hoping for over 150 sq in. I also really like symmetry, especially in an airbox, so I�ll explore the dual filter design and report back. I know the left side of the engine bay has less room due to the valve cover breather and the catch can, but those could be moved I think. Also, +1 on a paper filter. Unfortunately K&N has the easiest catalog to explore and I cross reference each filter to its application so I might find a paper version. The above filter is for a 928, so a paper filter should be available. Thanks for your input, circuit.heart. Much appreciated!

My Cayenne has two separate airboxes on opposite sides of the engine bay with a Y pipe going to the throttle body. It's good enough for 550+ HP....

Unfortunately I don't think there's space for a Y pipe, at least not easily. The LS3 throttle body actuator is huge, and sticks off the to the side and takes a ton of space. See below:

The intake situation for LS cars really pretty much blows and that humongous actuator makes an already ****ty situation worse. I'm glad someone smart like you is endeavoring to make something better than what everyone does which is varying degrees of not so great. Although, my setup is so wonky, not sure anything made for anything but it would work. Godspeed amigo.

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Thanks Jason. Not sure if I can make this one happen, but I'll keep plugging away. A ram intake would make much more space, which is essentially what we need. On a car like yours, you'd barely see it, but I don't run a wing (yet), so it's a fork in the road for me and I need to make a decision. edit: like this: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...air-scoop.html

Researching the flow rates of modern V8 engines, I see the general rule is intake speeds are 100 m/s or ~224 mph for standard engines and 115 m/s or ~258 mph for race engines. The formula to calculate surface area needed for an air filter is based on air flow rate. I did some maths, then cross checked here and found at 7000 rpm my flow rate should be about 700 CFM. To calculate the required surface area for an air filter, you will need to know the air flow rate (in cubic feet per minute) and the air velocity (in feet per minute), then use the formula: surface area = air flow rate / (air velocity * 60). Reference: https://www.physicsforums.com/thread...e-area.987902/ For LS engines, I'm using 224 mph (100 m/s). 700 CFM/ (224 mph * 60 mins/hr) = 0.052083 cubic feet or exactly 90 cubic inches, or in a filter's case, 90 square inches. This is a 9 x 10 inch filter. A conical filter, like the Uni filter on the car now, is 6 inches in length with a ~3 inch radius. Area for the outside of a cylinder = 2*pi*r*h. For my uni filter, this is 113 square inches. I like to run larger filters on my cars, essentially to over-filter and offer more than enough air, but this is a street car, not my Raptor or race Jeep. So I think I could reduce filter size, cross reference other platforms filter sizes, and make this my min filter size needed and design around that. More to come, someone chime in if I'm off base. Thanks!

Alright, v1.2...this is a 11.5x9.0 filter and fits the bill for at least 90 sq in. and was used in up to 4.0L Dodge Nitro applications. I'd like it to be bigger, but this is the largest I can fit into this space without significant compromises somewhere else. I would say this makes a good street filter for casual driving. I'll want to take a high resolution 3D scan of the engine compartment only and ensure everything fits, and I'll order a filter to scan and finalize the CAD before 3D printing an initial prototype. Of course, I have to add mounting tabs and incorporate the spoiler cover. Let me know your thoughts! edit: My next idea is to expand the side of this new design with a slope for a bit more air filter area in the even it's needed and the engine would pull it from available space if there's a reduction in the closer areas.

What do you do if it rains, or you wash the car?

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Move to SoCal, don�t wash your car. Not there yet but I�m planning to not spray water in that area and will come up with a plan for rain. The GT cars with ram intakes don�t have much there for rain mitigation. I don�t drive the car much in the rain but want it to survive a sudden downpour if needed.

They make "Rain Socks" or Hydro-shields" for open round air filters to keep them dry, but unfortunately they don't work for enclosed flat air filters...

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True, used many on my off road and sand cars... Outerwears, makes them that fit K&N perfectly and ones that fit the top of airboxes. And they also sell the material to make your own. If it were me, I'd give Outerwears a call... Just not sure all of them are 100% to stop a sudden down pour. And all it takes is a small amount to hydrolock... IIRR they make different type materials, some might stop 100% water intrusion... Can't hurt to ask.

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That's a great solution and I appreciate the idea! I'll give them a call. Thanks to both of you.

What does the engine bay space look like further down from the top surface? I'm sure you have a good grasp of the geometry but I can't see how much room there is between the LS and the crash bar. If a notch in the crash bar is all it takes to get a healthy Y-pipe fitted, that'd be worth it.

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Was thinking about this... They do make a water repellent outerwears for jetski flame arrestors/marine applications. Iirr, you can get a sheet of it. Could secure it to the bottom of the deck lid opening, then secure another piece to the airbox/filter,,, that might be enough considering how much distance is between the filter and deck lid opening. And if you could design in the deck lid a 'channel' like the convertible tops use with drains, on the bottom where the outerwears is secured to the lid opening, so water doesn't puddle on the outerwears screen that might help... Might need to use more of an angle to help gravity drain off the water into the channel...

Outerwears says they only hold water repellency for 6 to 12 months before they need to be replaced.

I think you really want to let the air into the airbox, give the water somewhere to fall, then pull the air through the filter. That's how factory units work.

Quotes source posts: 19235431, 19236039, 19236555, 19236751

Good questions. The engine bay is actually quite tight. I�ll double check, but I�d have to cut away part of the deck lid outer surface to get a Y tube in there. I could squish a tube or something for that space, but the LS3 throttle body actuator is still in the way a bit. If you want a real look, I�ll send you a 3D and you can poke around. FYI the crash bar (big aluminum brace that bolts in) was removed for this scan. I like these ideas and would definitely incorporate drains and channels into the rest of the mounting features. I�m curious if the GT cars with similar intakes have problems with rain. That makes sense. I was wondering if the material breaks down over time. Still, I think that�s a decent option and I�d just replace it every fall before the wet season starts. Yeah I agree. Ideally this airbox would be deeper in the engine bay after a longer plenum to route the air and remove water via runoffs. I have a few ideas on how to catch the raindrops and channel them out the sides of the vented cover. I think this would work well for most of the rainfall and the cover on the filter itself would do the rest.

Does anyone make an aftermarket TB that isn't quite so gigantic?

Quotes source post: 19239149

I was looking into it a bit the other day, but it seems the actuator is mostly in line with the axis of the butterfly plate. I saw a couple that looked like the actuator was behind the axis a bit, but nothing promising. This was the closest I found, at ~$750ish but totally bling. https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/products/nick-williams-103mm-dbw-billett-throttle-body.html https://briantooleyracing.com/nick-williams-103mm-ls-dbw-throttle-body-sd103ls.html

Quotes source posts: 19233336, 19239149, 19240246

Actually.... @theprf I think you're onto something. A quick comparison between the two throttle bodies looks like, if I spend some $$$ on the bling TB above, I'd have room for a Y splitter. I wanted to avoid a Y splitter, but I think it would work well enough.

Quotes source post: 19239149

Does this count ?

@zbomb would LOVE to have ITBs...but doubt they'd fit and they I'd have to route air to them. I have a e92 M3 with the S65 4.0L V8 that has them though

I have a y-pipe from a 997 turbo that I will donate if needed.... Not sure if its too big or too small. I can measure the TB side if you'd like

The v8 TB unfortunately sits much closer to the deck lid than the mezger one. It�s a challenge to get an inlet tube on there. I don�t think the TT one will work.

Quotes source posts: 19240932, 19240971

thank you! I think it would be tough to fit that in there, but if it would, I'd gladly take it. Always fun to repurpose parts and an OEM Y splitter would be great, especially a P car part. Yeah...it's quite close with a 4" tight radius silicone elbow. I think that's all that would fit.

Let me know if you want me to take measurements

Quotes source post: 19240288

That's totally worth it if it solves your other packaging problems. Opening up a second stock-sized hole in the right side of the decklid is easy and will give you enough air to feed the LS. The inlet Y won't be too bad of a choke point considering the size of the piping vs the power you're expecting to make.

Quotes source post: 19248874

The Gen 4 LS throttle bodies would work well and are 87mm. They can be bored larger and are pretty cheap compared to the 103 mm above. I found two CAD models of the Gen 4 TBs and placed them into the assembly, then cross checked against the rest of the engine bay and�the tensioner is right next to the TB. So it�s not likely I�ll be able to route a Y pipe in this application. It�s just too tight. I also researched air flow needs again and I was actually very close at my 700 CFM calculation. Most engines need about 660 CFM for the same bhp as my LS1 (480bhp). But the air filter sq ft is much larger considering it�ll only be clean for a short time after install. So�a 6� diameter and 8� long cylindrical filter is about 150 sq in and this is about the bare minimum, which is what I have now. To really solve this problem with a panel filter, I�d need to run about 200 sq in to account for dirt accumulation and make filter change intervals reasonable. If I can sneak two 14� x 8� filters into the deck lid, then it should work well and net above 200 sq in which is the goal. I�d have to find shallower air filters, make the air filter box deeper into the engine bay for added air volume, and run a CFD simulation to get a feel for flow characteristics. I�ll do that soon, I have some other obligations coming up that�ll delay me for two weeks then I�ll be back at it. In the meantime, I got the 996 completely ready for wrap. It�s been thoroughly washed and I only need to final sand the bumpers and wash those before starting. Getting the dirt out of the nooks and crannies of the windshield frames and behind the bumpers was a huge chore but I�m glad it�s over. All clean and covered waiting for me to get the nerve to start wrapping it.

Quotes source post: 19240472

I ran across these, looks like they�d do the trick but unavailable and $5k if they were. Plus I�d have to adapt cathedral to square port. https://www.harrop-usa.com/hurricane-manifold-etc/p31 pics below are from an old FS ad on LS1tech

Update: The 996 is completely ready to wrap finally. I have some buddies coming over this weekend to help wrap it. Crossing my fingers that it goes well and I'll be renewing my YouTube certification beforehand. I'm pausing work on the airbox until I have more time to dedicate to it, if any. For now, I'll probably buy a longer cylinder air filter from Uni and hand bend some aluminum sheet to act as a barrier. I also want to buy a Bamboo Carbon X1 since I sold my old workhorse Flashforge Creator Pro a while ago. I want to print the airbox myself and want a new printer anyway. Fikse wheels are 80% assembled, need to seal them, install valve stems, and check torque. Very excited for these! Going to slap on some new NT01s soon. Where is the best place to buy tires from these days? I've been going to Discount Tire for years but have heard there are some better vendors specifically for street/track tires. Lastly, I've been wanting to color change all the SS brackets I've made. I bought a Caswell blackening kit for SS and followed their instructions. Awful coating quality, I'm glad I tested it before doing all my brackets.This was the result, Caswell on the right, Steel-It on the left. The steelit came out SO much better that I coated all my brackets with it. I love it!

Stoked to see the wrap and the Fiskes look fire. I've gotta give it to steel-it, the stuff is top shelf, good choice. The brackets look very high quality.

Quotes source post: 19292483

Thank you sir I take my time with designs to make the best I can. I still dig this bracket design for the TRW/GT3 and Vauxhall Astra pumps. And steelit is my new favorite coating lol.

Looking forward to the wrap! I still think of colour changing mine from time to time.

I see chatter about Phil's tires. Certainly performance oriented. I'm not a customer yet but might be worth a look.

For the nt-01s i have been using Tirebuyer and Simpletire online for the last 2 yrs. They have discount codes and fast free shipping but inventory gets low sometimes.

Quotes source posts: 19292686, 19292857, 19293244

Thanks! Me too. Hoping I still have the skills. I wrapped my Jeep, but those panels were mostly straight! Your car's Martini livery was amazing! Thanks I checked them out. Prices are competitive. I'll bookmark this one! Thanks! I'll check out those two and look for discount codes. I figure the extra cash for Discount Tire certificates isn't worth it for these tires. I'll be using them for autocross and track days, not every day driving.

Started installing the painted brackets...love the way they're turning out. Clean clean clean.

Suuuper clean, love it. Also did not realize the spare tire could go flat down in a C2 trunk, do you have to weld a stud to the floor to keep it in place? I will absolutely do this on my own car and put a floor over it so the trunk space looks like one and not a box full of spare tire.

Quotes source post: 19296708

Thank you The spare isn't flat, it's a decieving pic! I have it pulled out of the way to wire the amp. The tire will still go flat against the back wall in OEM location.

Back from the dead... It's been a while and quite a few things have changed. We moved, have a larger garage and a detached shop that I might have access to in the future. Pretty stoked on the new house, tons of land, peace and quiet, and much less house maintenance problems to deal with. About 1/3 of my free time was dealing with issues around the house we were in. 7 plumbing leaks in 2 years plus 2 sewage backups in the lower level. I had enough and found a new place and so far it's much better. Right before the move, I tried wrapping the 911 with a couple friends and it went....poorly. It took us about 4 hours to partially wrap the roof and it looked quite bad. I threw in the towel and called a few friends that knew wrap installers in the PNW. I found one in particular that is a fantastic installer with this metallic green material and knew how to handle it. She completed the entire car in 3 days in my own garage without any fuss. I'll be using her for all wrap related jobs including tint from now on. I also finished the frunk refresh and amp install. It came out super clean and I'm pretty happy with the results. What are most people using for a 4" clamp on style cone or cylinder air filter? K&N is not my preferred choice and Uni Filter is mostly for off road. Paper filters are my preference but wanted to ask if there's been a change in the industry recently for street applications. Tires have been ordered, I should have them by next week. They're NT555s, not the NT01s I wanted, but the sidewalls are thicc and juicy, so it's a good compromise. We'll see if they fit. 255/45/18 and 315/40/18.

Couple more photos

nice wrap! wow. good to see you moving forward, and with a house move too. I guess I need to drink more coffee.

Quotes source post: 19395736

thanks! It turned out very good and I�m happy with it. It looks even better in the sun. I don�t make progress as quickly as I used to. I lost some of my motivation for wrenching. Too much working on the cars and not enough behind the wheel. Thankfully this project is almost done!

Well I took a gamble�and lost. I was planning to roll the fenders and install adjustable arms. At this point, I don�t want to keep dumping cash into the car and I want to start enjoying it. This means I just want to bolt on the wheels and tires and not have to deal with massaging the suspension or fenders. The 2.5� lips on the rear are about 1/2� too far out. I could pull them in with camber and roll the fenders and they would probably barely tuck. Instead of going that route, I�m going to find some 1.5� lips that�ll let the tires tuck under the rear fenders without rolling or camber adjustments. If someone sees a better way to fix the current problem (ie my mistake lol), please let me know. Otherwise this is the plan. Anyway�here�s some pics with the giant NT555s that I am also on the fence about.

Holy rubber Batman! I love it. No one can say you didn't send it big. You can back off a bit and still have plenty. I think you are right, Smart to do something that doesn't require a whole lot of Massage to work. Maybe cup sizes? The car really looks great with that wrap too.

Car looks great. I love that color. I have had about 5 VW Corrados painted that color. Those tires though... reminds me of my buddy's 71 Le Mans in high school.

Very nice, wrap looks great as does all the rest of the car. Tires look like a match to your LS engine. You're probably going to need all that rubber....

Is the problem the lip of the offset? Looks like u got a turbo car spec. @zbomb Probably has the correct part numbers?

Quotes source posts: 19408463, 19408514, 19408516, 19408557, 19408895

lol yeah a bit too much. Maybe I�ll run them for now. Definitely going to put in a smaller lip first. Thanks! I love the wrap. Thank you, I love this color! The tires are�Nicki Minaj thicc. Haha thank you! I definitely could use the bigger contact patch. What�s this in reference to? That�s a pretty easy measurement in CAD for LS engines. yeah lip offset is the issue. It�s more of a turbo spec for sure because I was pushing the limits. Probably should�ve gone with a 2.0� lip and adjustable upper control arms. I think a 1.5� lip will make it a lot easier to just bolt them on. I can run a 5mm spacer later if I want to roll the fenders or something. Maybe I�ll revisit this later to max out the offset but right now I want things to work well and easily. Jason did help me a bit but he can�t stop me from making a bad decision

Good looking wheels for sure. So, at the other end, what do you think about the front fitment ? Looks like it's pretty good in the photos.

Quotes source post: 19410139

Thanks! Yeah, the front fits very well, I kind of glossed over that. I'm very happy with the front offset.

Couple more shots with the aggressive fit, just for fun.

Installed the Ohlins this past weekend. It wasn’t nearly as difficult as I thought, it went smoothly. These are probably the original struts…bump stops are basically gone. Car rides stiffer but tighter and it feels smoother at speed. I need to back out the clickers and I’m waiting on clicker extensions before I button up the rear deck area. I need to get a few more things finished and then the car will be “done” for quite a while. I’m looking forward to not working on it and actually enjoying myself a bit. Almost there…

Went to my first cars and coffee with the new lips on the Fikse wheels and some temporary tires. The car drives really well and only large bumps are somewhat abrupt on full soft settings for the Ohlins. I think I need new TREs and dogbones perhaps but that�s all. Prepped the barrels with a scotch brite wheel on my 4.5� angle grinder. Makes quick work of removing the silicone and prepping the sealing surfaces. I still have a few things to get done on the car before I declare it �done� for the time being. The to-do list: -Install passenger Recaro and sliders -Finish AC wiring -Install subwoofer box -Mount subwoofer level **** in gt3 delete bezel -Ceramic tint -Exhaust crossover -Wing hold down brackets -Intake heat shield -TRE replacement -Replace micro switches in the door handles -Alignment and corner balance -Wash and ceramic coating Cars and coffee I think this is my favorite picture of the car to date.

Quotes source post: 19393941

aFe Power makes universal style filters that don�t need oiling. I really like the color of your car. It�s eye-catching and majestic.

Quotes source post: 19446678

That really came together well. I think many people would have gone with gold wheels, and I would have back in the day but this looks much better. Your car deserves some more good pictures to do it justice. Looks like it will really show nicely.

Quotes source posts: 19446683, 19447045

hey thanks! I�ll look at aFe. And thanks for the kind words. This color is more and more amazing every day. Majestic is a great word for it. lol Thank you! Gold BBS e88s were my first choice but I realized everyone does that and it�s kind of played out. This was the harder path and looks a bit more unique. I�m going to join Avants and buy the deluxe package that includes a photoshoot with my car. I think that�s the best bang for my buck.

Whats size tire did you end up going with?

Quotes source post: 19500529

The front is a 245/40/18 and I'll keep that size. Rear is a 305/30/18 and the sidewall is too thin. Probably go to a 305/35 or similar when I switch to NT01s.

Recent cruise went well! Car did great. I have some things to wrap up and have made a pretty comprehensive list that I'll add to and knock off items as I get to them. -ABS light is on, ABS doesn't work. Need to get the module programmed or replaced -Finish AC wiring and put in override switch -Ceramic tint install (this should be coming very soon) -Paint silver trim (this is cosmetic, can be done whenever) -Install crossover exhaust section and v-band clamps -Take it back to tuner for final tweaks -Find temporary solution for cooler intake temps -Install instant trigger module for electric power steering pump -Find replacement hood in green or black -Restore headlights -Install rain gutter covers and flaps -Install windshield trim gaskets -Change oil and filter, send for analysis -Fix brake pad sensor warning, just a loose plug -Subwoofer output level mount on GT3 console cover -Order and install RS door levers + covers Long term things for this winter, if I still have the car: -Brakes, need pads + rotors -Re-paint calipers -All suspension bushings need replaced -Thorough cleaning underneath and on suspsneion especially -Alignment + corner weights -Nitto NT01s -Install Accusump -Fix any other trim and body pieces that aren't aligned or are missing Recent picture I really like from that cruise-

I've had a set of Recaro Sporster CS seats on order since January and they finally showed up about a month ago. I slapped in the driver's side seat immediately because I couldn't stand the OEM 996 C2 seats any longer. I finally had some time to put in the passenger this past weekend and knocked it out along with scrubbing and shampooing the carpet. The driver's side needs to be cleaned again, so I'll do that when I remove the 3/4" spacers between the slider and the seat on the driver's side for a little more headroom. Here's what was under the driver's side seat...passenger side was not much better. Found some mysterious fine white powder....right where you'd expect someone to drop a container from their face and hands.... Both sides had shattered glass under the seat but the passenger's side had much more. I vacuumed all that out and used this awesome new brush on my impact to scrub the carpet with foam cleaner. Here's the after photo of passenger's side. Driver side is still needing some scrubbing since I didn't have the brush when I first swapped seats. The brush got all the stains out! Had to trim the slider a bit to use the Recaro slider with the Planted seat brackets. Cantrell Motorsports slim **** necessary to be able to slide the seat back far enough for me. Finished install. Don't mind the mess behind the seats, still wrapping up the AC wiring. Good news is I should be able to finish that this week and reinstall the subs and have tunes plus cold AC for the summertime cruising here.

Hard to find decent tires in 18's... Most are 100TW or 200TW. If you go to a 295/35/18 a hand full more options. I'm running Conti DWS06 295/35/18 rears 560 TW but they are all seasons...

Very nice , must clean my carpet.

Quotes source posts: 19503224, 19503774

Yeah...hard to find tires that fit the way I want. The NT01s should be the best fit, we'll see. I like the Conti DWS line, I run a similar tire on my wife's GTI. I think I'd run those as my all seasons on the twists after I refresh them. Thanks! Yeah...not the funnest part of the build but definitely don't mind the refreshing scent now.

I loooove Sportsters. Will have to get some for myself to replace the 996 tombstone seats. Are you planning on keeping or messing with the interior color scheme?

Quotes source post: 19510417

Thanks! I love them too!! The 996 c2 seats aren�t comfortable at all IMO. The curvature of the seat doesn�t match the curvature of a human spine and they don�t hold me in the seat very well so the Sportsters were a big upgrade! I actually really like the Savannah beige scheme and the black seems to integrate really well with it. I am digging your work on the horseshoe and might have to upgrade to it when you�re offering them. Did you have any suggestions on other changes for the interior? I�m always curious what others think. The gt3 console delete, T96 steering wheel, and Conti stereo were huge improvements and made the interior feel more classic and sporty. It felt crowded before the gt3 delete and my knees thanked me. The seats really tie it all together.

Ceramic tint on all glass, new hotter plugs, and new WBO2 with the full race tune. This thing rips!

Passes every thing but the gas station.

Why did you choose to install hotter plugs? Are they hotter than OEM, or did you mistakenly install colder ones previously?

Quotes source post: 19525543

Yup, even passes by the engine rebuild shop for 300,000miles+... lol

Quotes source posts: 19525543, 19525962, 19526237

The V8 is a little thirstier than the M96 was, I think. I average 13mpg when ripping around, lots of WOT rips and high RPM twisties. Cruising I averaged ~20mpg on a pure highway trip. The tune is still rich but the Terminator self learns and should be leaning out the tune. I'll take it back to the tuner again eventually to have him take a look. Hotter plugs = more fuel burnt. It's science. They're hotter than OEM by 1. They do seem to be giving more power. I could smell unburnt fuel at idle. With the somewhat aggressive cam profile, larger injectors, better heads, and ported intake and LS3 throttle body, I think the stock plugs weren't keeping up with the fuel mixture. Just a theory after seeing similar posts on LS1tech and I'm trying it out. I also fouled 2 sets of plugs before this and the tune is pretty rich still. *crosses fingers* Yeah I hope so! LS engines are prone to oiling issues, so an oil accumulator is in my future before any serious tracking. I doubt I'll make it to a track event this year but I might get 1 day! These tires....are NOT what I'd want to run though. Hah!

Crossover installed. This took a lot longer to install, about 10 hours due to amount of TIG welding and hand coping the tube. I also had to find another spot for O2 sensor and check out the shop I was working in. If you�re in Bellevue WA, check out Amaxi Autosport. They�re doing custom Porsche, BMW, and LS builds, standalone race harnesses and race cars, and fiberglass and carbon vacuum molding. Here�s the turnout of the crossover. It did change the exhaust note a bit. It sounds more exotic, especially at higher rpm. I�ll make some videos soon, might take a little over a week though. These mufflers just aren�t cutting it, so I�m already planning to change them out. I also have some oil escaping from the crank and balancer area. I�ve already replaced the oil pan gasket, and the leak is more prevalent when I�m doing high rpm wot pulls. I imagine the crankcase is still over pressured even though I have the big breather on the valve cover. I�ll keep digging into that - I guess I�ll have to keep banging through gears to figure it out.

That looks sooooooooo sick! Can't wait to hear it!

I'm curious how a long H-pipe got your exhaust note to go... higher? Typically the only way people really achieve the exotic pitch on LS is 180deg headers or 8-to-1.

Quotes source post: 19576628

These are 180 headers 180 headers basically split the banks (there was no merge on my setup) and the firing order is in sequence on each collector, so it sounds like two 4 cyl engines revving together. Adding the H pipe allows each side to resonate on the other bank after the collector, so it sounds higher pitched.

Quotes source post: 19577188

I'm retarded, all I had to do was look left at your profile pic that's exactly what I've always wanted in an LS build.

lol all good! I�ll post a video next week hopefully. I have a couple 8-1 header designs that I�m looking to finally fabricate and start producing if I can get some preorders. Hoping to sell to the drift and hardcore offroad crowd.

Sick headers! Too bad they won�t fit the 996�.

Quotes source post: 19579240

Everything fits with a little cutting kidding�I actually have tried to fit a 8-1 setup in the 996 and it�s even more complex and takes up more room than the 180 setup!

Needs some soundtracks for sure. I'm looking forward to hearing it rip. It would be awesome to see it in Hood River if you get down this way.

Quotes source post: 19579368

If I�m down that way I�ll send you a PM!

Hello gentlemen, read through this entire post to find if there was a resolution to getting the fuel pump to turn on without jumping the relay (without the term x). I�m using CPEs wiring harness and it doesn�t seem to be triggering the fuel pump, but I can still jump the relay to get the car started�any thoughts? Or should I just run a 12v from the cig lighter to the pin on the relay and call it a day�

Quotes source post: 19591776

​​​​For the how much the CPE harness costs it should just work plug and play Imo. What does Tyler have to say?

Quotes source post: 19592084

texted back and forth with him for a good while, but i couldn�t figure out nor he what was the issue. Im fairly sure the signal isn�t getting to the relay or the wrong signal is being used, but everything seems to check out from my perspective I even jumped pin 10 (engine harness) to pin pin 63 (DME) and still no luck. For reference he uses pin 10 on the chassis engine harness side for the signal where he then jumps it from pin 59 ( 59 - Tuning flap (intake manifold switchover)) at the DME to PIN 63 on the DME which leads to prong 85 on the fuel pump relay. Digging around I believe this is suppose to be a grounded when key is in the on position but unsure and at this point am willing to just get something together to get this running.

Quotes source post: 19592655

Hey I got your email as well! I was just about to respond when I saw you commented here. Since this has viewers that might have the same issue, I�ll respond here. It sounds like you�re using the GM ECU. I used the Terminator X ECU, so the wiring is different but the concept is the same. You want the GM ECU to trigger the fuel pump relay. This is circumventing Tyler�s harness. Sorry this happened to you and you�re dealing with this issue when you bought a plug and play harness that�s supposed to work out of the box. That�s frustrating. I yanked out the fuel pump relay at the kick panel and spliced into the ground trigger pin at the relay with a ground output trigger on the Terminator X. You would also do this with a on/off switch if you don�t have an easy trigger from the GM ECU for the fuel pump. You�d still use the OEM relay in that case, just splicing in a manual ground with a switch. For a quick fix, you can jump the relay with a jumper that has a built in fuse across the pins at the relay. I hope this helps, let me know how it goes!

Quotes source post: 19592697

Hmmm, it appears CPEs harness is already sending a ground signal to the relay and I am not up to diagnosing the harness (or chassis) at the moment so I used the power switch source from the cellphone harness in the dash. thanks for the clarification; will let you know what transpires when I deep dive into the harness. to be clear CPE has provided great quality parts this far and cannot blame them for the harness as I�m unsure if it�s chassis side or not. The wait time was atrocious took 10 months to get my entire wiring kit�

I am about to undertake making a harness for my 2001 carrera 4 and plan to use the Holley Terminator Maxx. Did you ever figure out how to get the AC control to work with the snowflake switch? I have spent days browsing forums, and there seems to be several way to send the coolant temp, oil pressure, and tach back to the DME but I would like to do this once and not butcher the stock Porsche harness several times. Do you have any guidance on what�s needed to merge the Holley harness and stock harness? It seems the cpe harness uses the revcan2 module to handle the AC request for the GM Ecu, but at $400, I believe the Holley should be able to control this without the extra expense. The PWM signal from the snowflake seems to be an issue in the factory DME to work with the swap. Thank you.

Quotes source post: 19593912

I have a 2001 C2 swapped with a terminator, I kept the Engine compartment air temp, coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sensor and Tee'd the crank sensor into the porsche harness and my dash and AC works. I also use the terminator output to control the CEL.

Quotes source post: 19596418

Sorry for the late reply, I thought I responded to this. Do you recall if the DME was looking for a signal from one of those sensors you mentioned in order to trigger the AC kick on? I have a separate circuit for the AC through the terminator right now. The snowflake signal has been intermittent from the HVAC controls. I think the crank sensor is the key, and I did tie this into the Porsche harness. Do you remember which pin you teed into for crank signal?

@gtxracer , sorry to crash your thread, but I would love to just have a few mins of your time to pick your brain on a Holley+LS swap I am currently doing. I've been combing your and other threads religiously, but still have burning questions. For some reason, I can't DM - might be a new acct thing...? If that's possible, you'd make my day.

Quotes source post: 19593912

Not sure I can attest to whether this will work, but this was my plan: https://currentperformance.com/shop/...tor-ac-module/ if you want to wire the a/c shutdown lead. To simplify, you could just wire the a/c request to a switch somewhere, and let the mechanism cycle the compressor via pressure switch pigtail. The cheap way would be a Vintage Air Trinary: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VTA-24678-VUS . Just wire in the sensor, run the lead to a fan relay, compressor, and switch on the dash. As for interfacing with the HVAC for automatic turn on/turn off, I found it more trouble than it was worth since I could wire a switch on my dash. If you really wanted to do this, you could analyze the A/C request from the HVAC, and build some sort of box to trigger the compressor seamlessly.

edit: lovely, deleting this double post.

Quotes source post: 19697860

No worries I�ll send you a PM so we can start chatting!

I am new to Rennlist and I am doing the same swap except I have a cabriolet. I would love to see your notes on the final wiring.

Quotes source post: 19700772

I'd recommend using a 58x LS computer and DBW throttle body. Buy a Kennedy adapter and Stage 2 clutch. Use a create LS3 if you can afford it, otherwise find a 58x aluminum block engine and choose between GM and Holley TermX computer. Each have their own pros/cons. If you have a 996.1, you don't need a new wiring harness, just put the Porsche sensors (oil pressure, coolant temp) into the LS engine and keep the LS sensors too. Wire the 58x tach wire directly to Porsche tach signal wire and tach will work. The rest is pretty easy. You can thin out the original harness if you want to but not necessary.

FWIW - from my experience battling DBW issues with the easy to mount C7 pedal and E38, AND not being able to get WOT with the E38 and Porsche pedal, I would save the headache and go standalone without dumping effort into the GM ECU.

Quotes source post: 19700794

Thanks. Good info. At the moment I am just trying to track down the trigger of fuel pump relay wire off the ecu. I know it is pin number 63 but do not know the color. I think the tach wire is in the engine bay and is purple with green tracer. But i am not sure. I have a 99 as well so if you know the colors that would help me a lot. Thanks

Quotes source post: 19700906

I connected the fuel trigger at the foot panel where the fuses are, I'm unsure if you can tie into another part of the system. Or you can have the key-on trigger the fuel pump, which I also have done but can't recall exactly how I got the car to trigger the pump. Keep the relay involved, don't delete it. I used the tach signal wire at the DME. It's only 1 wire, I can't recall the color but it matched the DME 996.1 pinout, I believe pin 78. Check here .

I need to connect 1 more wire to fire her up. 12 volt switched in run and start. Any pin numbers, locations, component wire options or colors would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Quotes source post: 19740313

For a 99', pin 56 to the DME should be cranking and on 12V. (Blk/brn)

Excellent! Thank you. I had my eye on that one but can I just cut it and combine with my Holley or do I need to tap in? I couldn't tell if it is running anything else I need from the old system.

Quotes source post: 19740353

If I'm correct, it's a 15a circuit that I think only runs the dme. Id have to check other schematics for terminations to it

Quotes source post: 19693281

So i figured this out a little differently than most, but did manage to get the AC, ABS, and PSM to work with the Haltech. I don't know if the Holley terminator has the same capabilities, I personally do not like the terminator x as it lacks a lot of flexibility. I have the alternator, engine bay temp, crank signal, coolant temp, and oil pressure signals hooked up. The accelerator pedal and throttle are wired to potentiometers to mimic idle condition so the ABS/PSM only controls braking rather than timing/throttle. For the AC, I left the snowflake wiring alone and tapped the cut the compressor relay trigger wire from the Porsche DME to the compressor relay. The wire out of the DME, I attached to an input wire on the Haltech. This is a ground trigger wire, so I programmed the Haltech for >6V off and <2V on. The ground trigger wire to the relay was attached to an output on the Haltech using a low state(ground trigger). This allowed for use of the factory porsche AC relay and wiring while allowing the Haltech to control idle, off conditions at WOT, and the Porsche pressure sensor for safety.

Quotes source post: 19700772

Looks like there are 2 wires related to ac on my 99. I am trying to connect to my Holley. Anybody been through this and have the info?

Quotes source post: 19763856

This is a cool idea, I have the Porsche input running to my terminator but I didn't think about running the compressor relay with an output

Quotes source posts: 19763856, 19778852, 19779685

Thanks for sharing. I agree that TermX lacks some flexibility. I think that's how they met their price point and I kinda wish I'd gone with Haltech. Do you mind going into more detail on the potentiometers to mimic idel condition? I am pretty sure my GM throttle pedal with output resistance values related to pedal position and that is basically a potentiometer and I could do the same. I don't think my ABS system is working and I think the DME just needs the same condition from pedal and throttle. This should just be an output from TermX that I wire to the DME pins for idle and throttle positions - do you recall those DME pin numbers? Here's what I've found in pinout diagrams: 44 - Signal, throttle position sensor 78 - Signal, rpm crankshaft position sensor 79 - Speed signal from ABS control module 80 - Speed signal output I believe I also tapped the AC compressor relay trigger. The snowflake signal seems to be 12v PWM but even with a PWM to analog bring up circuit to give me a solid 12v signal it didn't work. For some reason I can't get the snowflake signal to be consistent. This might be due to the above issues where the DME is looking for the crank/throttle/pedal signal or RPM to activate the snowflake circuit. Here's the AC pinouts, I need to check my notes and edit this post once I confirm. This pinout isn't descriptive enough and I need to find another source. I used the ground activated pressure sensor as an input for TerminatorX and this drives a TermX 12v output to the compressor pin on the DME. I'll confirm this. 62 - A/C compressor On 68 - Position switch/clutch switch 69 - A/C compressor requirement See above and my other posts in this thread. It's all there although I'm still working through snowflake signal. This is how I have it running in my TermX also.

Sadly my 996 is for sale. https://rennlist.com/forums/the-renn...-to-track.html

Are you selling solely due to the discomfort from the seats? Why not try swapping to a different seat? That subwoofer setup is sick.

Quotes source post: 19963316

I think I�ve taken this car as far as I wanted to go. I finished it and love the outcome but yes, the pinched nerve doesn�t seem to be going away. It makes it hard to truly enjoy the car for what it is. I had this issue with the old seats as well. I�ve put up with it for a couple years now and it�s time to move on. Thank you, I really like how the sub setup came out. I really learned a lot about car audio.

Bummer to learn of your pinched nerve and how it has negatively affected your 911 experience. I have enjoyed following your work and more than once been amazed by your fabrication skills and the thoughtfulness of your build, really excellent work. I have been enjoying your original M96 you sold me. From the re-building experience through about +35K on it now. I wish you the best on your next engineering adventure!

Quotes source post: 19964429

I really appreciate your compliments, Todd. Of all the nice things people have said to me about this project, yours resonate with me the most I think. I still remember meeting you that day and hoped to hear about your project! 35k is a ton of miles, that�s awesome! Thanks again for your comments. Cheers.

Quotes source post: 19963492

Damn, sorry to hear. Think we need to put you in a 991 next to LS swap that too lol. I sat in a few recently and they are SO comfortable vs stock 996/997 seats.

Quotes source post: 19967177

Thanks bud! I�d love a 991 if I don�t have any issues with sitting in it. Also love to LS swap one. I think those cars would have a bigger engine bay too. I might look into it but honestly I�m looking at f80 m3s. The stock 996 seats were uncomfortable after driving for more than an hour. It seems like the mid back overarch that is inherent in these cars is causing most of the problem for me. Last summer I took this clip of the car and never posted it. Enjoy! You Tube

Quotes source post: 19967401

If it's just the seat or wheel and not a footbox or body axis issue, I think you'd be better off fixing the 996 than jumping into an F80 and fixing that car's also weird seats. I only haven't touched the 996 because it's okay for me, but all my non-Porches get some kind of bucket seat. Being able to adjust the padding and lumbar in a shell that's already ergonomically molded is a godsend, fixes everything. We can chat over PM if you don't want me to clutter this thread with my very OCD investigation lol.

So how do the Recaro Sportsters compare to the stock seats? I find the stock 996 seats pretty awful in general and I had been looking at the sportsters as a potential replacement, but if they aren't doing the trick for you maybe I should keep looking?

Quotes source post: 19967419

It�s not just the seats/pinched nerve. My needs have changed for my weekend car. I had plans to take this car to the track often during the season but that doesn�t seem likely to happen. It�s an awesome performance car that should be driven how it was meant to be. I could see myself in a 911 again someday. You�re the first person I�ve heard say the f80 seats are weird.

Quotes source post: 19969007

The Sportsters are much more comfortable than the stock seats and they keep you in place with the bolsters. I sat in quite a few different seats and these were very comfy in the store when I was trying them out. The seating position in the 996 seems raked back a bit and the seats round towards the back too. This is true for most seats I found. For a comparison, the seats in my 2013 Raptor are some of the most comfortable I�ve ever tried. I also have a e92 m3 to compare to and those seats are pretty good too. This is why I say that the 911 seating position is my issue, unfortunately.

Quotes source post: 19969011

Fair enough. F80 seats felt like 997 seats to me. They don't cradle your butt, you can recline the butt pad to avoid sliding forward but now your butt is falling into a valley and every pedal input is extra load on your thighs. Of course, every body is different so only you can judge, but even Sportsters are mediocre for me so I'm trying SR-S now as a possible candidate. If you're down for an older BMW, E39 Sport seats (aka buy an M5) are fantastic. I did 12hrs of road trip with one bathroom break and woke up the next morning like nothing happened.

Quotes source post: 19969346

Now I have to go sit in another F80 and compare the seats. lol I have definitely felt the differences in pedal feel based on seat arrangement and position. Some cars have felt much less comfortable to drive due to the amount of pedal travel relative to the seat and wheel position. Adjustable pedals and seat pad, like on my 135i, helped quite a bit. The 1 series didn�t have an adjustable pedal but the seats were plenty and the wheel made up the rest. The front of the seat extends in BMWs and this helps on longer drives. I also liked the room in the pedal area on the BMWs. The 996 has such a cramped pedal box area. This might sound strange but my 996 has too much power. It�s a rocket ship. Around here it�s driving a fast car slow which isn�t as much fun. I want to feel like I�m pushing the car and banging through gears even if I�m barely pushing the speed limit. I don�t want a Miata but a Cayman S would be a better fit. I figured out I don�t really like car shows, cars and coffee wasn�t my thing, and overall have a hard time �bragging� about my car at those events. Most of the time it�s just a show and tell for how much money someone has and that�s not my thing. I�d rather just go cruise or sometimes go to the track. These, plus comfort, are the main reasons I am looking for another car.