15 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAny idea of repair costs (ball park)
Leading reported evidence
Repair (about €50 per nipple i think)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The nipples can sheer and now you have to take the caliper off to have it repaired (about €50 per nipple I think).
Leading evidence: 'Repair (about €50 per nipple i think)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'wire' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust price' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Suggestion
you need to get it checked or adjust price to allow for worst case
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Suspected cause
With regards to the mirror - most likely the wire from the back of the operating switch has a break in it, motor will probably be fine.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I had a similar issue with a couple of BMWs where the motor was very easy to replace, pop the mirror glass out and then unscrew the motor unit, disconnect the wires and install the new one.
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Suggestion
Pay someone to inspect, go in with your eyes open, and be happy buying it knowing you have as much understanding of the costs involved in any work you need to do.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I had a similar issue with a couple of BMWs where the motor was very easy to replace, pop the mirror glass out and then unscrew the motor unit, disconnect the wires and install the new one.
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Suggestion
Pay someone to inspect, go in with your eyes open, and be happy buying it knowing you have as much understanding of the costs involved in any work you need to do.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm new to the forum and in the process of buying a 996.2 and come to a couple of stumbling blocks that I was hoping I could get some guidance on, specifically around ball park repair costs (from a specialist in South East) for a couple of items:
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Suggestion · Original poster
The chap didn't want to be too specific about repair costs (which I can understand), but his estimation was that the coolant repair would need the gearbox/engine out (can't remember which or both?) and therefore cost a pretty penny.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T005001Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi,
I'm new to the forum and in the process of buying a 996.2 and come to a couple of stumbling blocks that I was hoping I could get some guidance on, specifically around ball park repair costs (from a specialist in South East) for a couple of items:
-replacement of slight coolant leak from main aluminium pipe running front to back (photo)
-air con not working (could this be a condenser?)
-replacement of chassis brake lines (minor corrosion)
-replacement driver side mirror motor (it currently won't go up or down)
The car is pretty sound in most respects but I sense the items above (well two of them at least) could be pretty costly items to rectify and I want to think about this if I make an offer.
Many thanks and I can't wait to join the fold shortly.
David
Hi David,
Hard question to answer without specifics, but I'll give it a go -
If the coolant pipe is cracked/ got a hole in it, it might be repairable by welding. Otherwise replace. Either way, pipe has to come off. That means possibly taking out the front subframe I think. As it goes in around the steering and fuel tank. No a simple job and can lead to more expense. Eg conditon of power steering pipes. Could be £100 or £1000...
Aircon - could be condenser or both condenser or air con pump or aircon pipe under car or a combination. Need to leak check. Could be an o-ring. Cost could be £100 or £1000... you need to get it checked or adjust price to allow for worst case
Brake pipes - not a big job normally... however, if the pipe over the gearbox is corroded, gear box has to come out. If the pipes under the RH sill are corroded, you can replace the whole pipe or have a repair section inserted. There is an aluminum fitting under the passenger seat area that the pipes connect To. The thread can strip with the metal fittings. If this is still available (one type is obsolete) it costs about £130 from memory. After you replace the pipes, you need to bleed the brakes. The nipples can sheer and now you have to take the caliper off to have it repaired (about €50 per nipple I think). Some people will pretend to bleed it to avoid this. Others will repair the nipple the cheap way and wreck it but you won't know until 2 years time when it is time to change the fluid again. Also, if the caliper has to come off for repair, the threads in the aluminum housing can pull out with the caliper bolts and now you have to get a timesert repair. 4 calipers.... Do the maths... or maybe they only ruin one thread and don't tell you and just stick the bolt back in... nearly tight. Also the rigid brake lines seize into the caliper too. These are about 25 each. Oh and they seize into the flexi hoses too, so allow for a set of them...
The mirror wouldn't be cheap either...
So while the issues you have flagged may look relatively benign, ask your self why hasn't the seller done them in advance of selling?
I would strongly advise you to get someone who knows porsches to look at the car. If you buy at the wrong price and end up with large repair bills, you will regret it. Pay someone to inspect, go in with your eyes open, and be happy buying it knowing you have as much understanding of the costs involved in any work you need to do.
There is also the less obvious work - when we're the shocks last changed, were the suspension arms ever replaced? Was the coolant bottle checked? When were the radiator intakes last cleaned out (in between the condenser and the radiator) most people on the forum could tell you the answers to all of the maintenance items on their cars. Buy from someone who can easily answer....
They are fantastic cars - good luck
Also - if you search under my name, I posted an excel version of the Porsche maintenance schedule for the 996. This lists all of the main service items. If you can get an answer/proof to all of them, you will have a good sense of how well the car was looked after. But even well looked after cars can still need work.
This could simply be the plug or a wire going to it, I had a broken wire that stopped mine going up and down and I ended up soldering the wire to get it working again.
Go to a specialist and you'll get fleeced. Porche's aren't specialist cars, they just have the odd specialist jobs. Non of the above are that and should be easily fixed by any half decent mechanic.
With regards to the mirror - most likely the wire from the back of the operating switch has a break in it, motor will probably be fine. Mine had the same problem.
:worship:
Thanks for the comments everyone.
Ghianightmare, much appreciated, I ha e also downloaded your maintenance xls so thanks for pointing me towards this.
These findings came from a Porsche Pre-Purchase Inspection that was undertaken yesterday. The chap didn't want to be too specific about repair costs (which I can understand), but his estimation was that the coolant repair would need the gearbox/engine out (can't remember which or both?) and therefore cost a pretty penny. If that's the case then I guess it makes doing the brake pipes at the same time more cost effective (the engine has a rebuilt with 3 new cylinder bores a couple of years ago so I don't need to do anything on that or IMS/RMS front).
The inspector's view was that with a couple of thousand it would be in good shape, so as people are suggesting I'm trying to go into this with my eyes open. I'm not afraid of spending money on the car (and I want to get it into top condition) but I also don't want to overpay. My 'newbie' logic is that if I can get a 996.2 cabrio (~80k miles) with the repairs all done (which includes the engine rebuild) for £20k I'll be in a good place, sound reasonable?
The shocks are in reasonable condition (no weeping but some beginning signs of corrosion), I'm thinking of them as a year 2 replacement cost along with some other less immediate issues such as a missing under tray and wheel refurb.
Good to know, I'm assuming it was a simple fix reconnecting the wires?
I had a similar issue with a couple of BMWs where the motor was very easy to replace, pop the mirror glass out and then unscrew the motor unit, disconnect the wires and install the new one.
I like simple fixes, especially the ones I can do myself!
I just twisted the wire a bit and its never failed since. If you can do simple DIY then the aircon is also a doddle in its the condensers. You can get a pair for under £100 and then a regas for £50.
I"m having the exact same brake lines done on mine today as a local garage. I'll report back later on cost.
There is a transverse brake pipe at the front that needs the subframe dropping to get to. Another job to consider if the subframe has to come out for the coolant pipe.
My mechanic did my front ones with everything in situ. Followed by about £60 in the swear box. Charged me £50 for doing them.
Whatever you do, don't replace any of the brake lines with the inferior steel genuine Porsche ones.
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