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YOUR RESEARCHGear Oil Change
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downshift into second apparently the mobile ptx is designed
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Reported cause · Original poster
My problem is the downshift into second Apparently the Mobile PTX is designed to help with that
Leading evidence: 'downshift into second apparently the mobile ptx is designed' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'downshift into second apparently the mobile ptx is designed' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend porsche classic transaxle oil' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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No idea what was in there before, no record of it being changed so I changed it along with the front differential fluid.
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Whoever last changed the transmission fluid a) did NOT use washers and, b) cranked both drain plugs to about 100 ft lbs (18 ft lbs is spec)!
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I use Porsche Classic after an unsuccessful run with Redline 75w90 NS.
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Still getting to know the FF part, but I am glad that I did not go with the medium (yellow) or hard (black) versions from a NVH standpoint.
Hi Guys, going to do my first manual gearbox oil change on my Porsche 911 Carrera 996 4S 2003.
There seems to be three schools of thought, first one being Genuine Porsche the second Motul Motylgear 75w-90 and the third Swepco201 80w-90.
What do you guys think?
I�m using the Swepco. It�s a lot smoother than the unknown that was in there. No experience with anything else in this car.
I expect any of them will be a big improvement over the old oil.
I use Porsche Classic after an unsuccessful run with Redline 75w90 NS. I used redline gear oils in the rest of the fun fleet, but they are not a good match for the 996/986 gearboxes. The Redline made the shift terrible when cold and extremely "notchy" at operating temp and while I did not mind the notchiness, the cold shifting felt like I was forcing the car into gear especially 2nd, and this is a very low mileage car. I recommend the Porsche Classic transaxle oil which I am now happily running in the 996, 986 S and 993.
I have historically used Millers Nano 75w90 which has performed well running it for over 15 years on the street and track. But am about to try out Motul Gear 300 75w90 after a recent conversation I had with Matt Monson at Guard on what he found works best with the Guard LSD and 996 trans. He recomended Motul Gear 300 as a choice by his testing.
I have absolutely no complaints on Millers Nano and have heard only good things about the Porsche fluid.
I will have some opinions on Motul versus Millers over the cold weather months shortly when i change out the fluid and drive the 996 around town.
GL4 is required. Some people say the synchros wont last with GL5 but I think the Liqui moly gear oil GL5 is fine for our synchros. Not sure on the Mobil 1 but considering everyone seems to drop Mobil for other brands in the engine then most go for something else.
I've had great results with Liqui moly 75w90 and the Porsche classic stuff. Redline has never worked well for me in various cars, always making it notchier and less smooth.
Three years ago I bought my 99 996 C4 with a dead engine . While the engine was being built I decided to change the transmission fluid as it was out of the car and easy access . The chassis had 145k miles and I had no clue if the transmission worked or not . Just the word of the seller saying it did . I went with the Motul 300 . When we got the car running the maiden voyage I could not believe how smooth the shifts were . I don't know what brand of gear oil came out but I am very happy with the Motul .
How is the Motul before it gets up to temp? I used the Liquid Moly kit from FCP Euro and overall pretty happy, but getting into 1st when it�s cold is difficult sometimes. Not sure if that is just how 996s are or if a better fluid would help.
Shifts great once the fluid is warm. No idea what was in there before, no record of it being changed so I changed it along with the front differential fluid.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...-00004330549kt
I went with 300V. I find it 'ok' when things are cold. You just don't want to rush your changes. However once up to temp it is fantastic.
If I were to swap out I'd switched to Redline. I've had amazing success in the past with Evos and STIs (not sexually transmitted Infections...
) and I've convinced a friend who has a BMW E30 manual to switch to it (awaiting results)
They are all going to be a little stiff until everything warms up during cold weather months. They key is not to force the shift and give it a throttle blip and it will settle into gear when cold. I switched to Motul Gear 300 last year and it definately needs to warm up before pushing the gearbox.
That�s my experience with the Liquid Moly too, though I don�t have to blip the throttle, just patient shifting. No big deal since the engine isn�t warmed up yet usually.
However, when I come to a stop and the trans is cold, it�s hard to get into first. Doesn�t grind but I have to be completely stopped and sometimes release the clutch and then push in the clutch again to get it to slide into first.
That normal in your experience? Doesn�t seem like something better fluid would help.
Its pretty consistent with what I have experienced over the past 23 years in Chicago with my 996. I have run 3 types of gear oil over the years. The standard factory oil, then Millers nano, and then the Motul Gear 300. The factory oil and Millers were the smoothest when cold. Motul is not very forgiving when cold. But I run it because I have a Guard LSD and I asked them what I should run to get the best performance out of the LSD and they told me motul gear 300. They also said the shift wont be as smooth when cold.
Some of you may find this of interest since we are discussing gear oil and shifting smoothness.
I just had my 996 in for service on a couple of items. One of which was to add the Function First Trans Mount Insert. Figured I would try it out before I had my indy drop my trans to refresh the clutch, flywheel and trans mount among other items at the end of the year. As a side note, my OE trans mount has been slowly deteriorating with age and use.
I went with the FF Orange insert which is the softest to keep the NVH (vibrations) at a min. Here are some observations.
1. Shifting improved. Everything was better aligned. Confirmed to me that shifting deteriorates as your trans mount deteriorates.
2. Slight NVH from 3-4k RPM. After 4k, engine vibrations and sounds swamped the vibrations from the FF insert.
3. Still getting to know the FF part, but I am glad that I did not go with the medium (yellow) or hard (black) versions from a NVH standpoint.
4. I do not know if the vibrations will have any effect on the computer and engine performance, but will test it out in April at our opening day track event.
5. If you do not want vibrations you should replace the trans mount with a new factory one which I plan on doing at year end.
Hope it helps.
Smart man! It is the swiss army knife of parts that solves for many problems. Dont forget to refresh your water pump and upgrade your IMSB if you havent already. These 3 items are easy to do and mitigate the 3 weak factory parts that cause all the problems. Enjoy your 996. Incredible car!
Interesting, i only added the insert with a fresh mount so hard to tell any difference with mine tbh. Wonder if yours gives a bit more noise because of a slightly worn old mount also being used?
I switched to the Porsche mobilube PTX stuff at ~$45/liter last week. It's only marginally smoother than the Motul stuff I had in there. It didn't really solve the "problem" of cold shift into first being rough.
Have you tried slipping it into second then first? (while stopped... of course NEVER downshift into first...)
I have to do that sometimes with my 2.7 911
Paul
Make sure to have a spare M22x1.5 drain plug & a couple 22x27x1.5 crush washers (aluminum). Ask me how I know? Whoever last changed the transmission fluid a) did NOT use washers and, b) cranked both drain plugs to about 100 ft lbs (18 ft lbs is spec)!
The 10mm Allen slot stripped to a perfect circle. I’m thankful the block wasn’t stripped out.
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