35 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew 987 owner, brake question!!
Reported or suspected cause
modulation
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
The issue is the modulation that can occur, especially in the wet.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
Leading evidence: 'modulation' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'modulation' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fluid level and quality' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just a note about brake modulation, I ran a Hoosier slick in a damp rain due to my home being close to the track.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
The stock pads (Textar brand, I believe) do dust like crazy, so that issue is normal.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Check fluid level and quality
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check fluid level and quality
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If the previous owner(s) tracked the car but weren't religious about changing the fluid, that would seriously degrade the stopping power of the vehicle.
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Suggestion
Anyhow, my point is we are likely scrubbing more velocity and speed than we imagine by the butt dyno and as such use more pedal pressure, pad material and have to flush every two years for factory maintenance.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Don't get me wrong they stop the car great but I need to use quite a lot of force which I've quickly got use to however when I get back in my Audi A6 the brake feel super sharp.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
35 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T100758Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi Guys,
New to
Porsche
and
Cayman
ownership, very happy with the car but just need to know if my brakes are working correctly. Don't get me wrong they stop the car great but I need to use quite a lot of force which I've quickly got use to however when I get back in my Audi A6 the brake feel super sharp.
Is this normal or are the
Porsche brake
normally sharp ( If you know what I mean 🤔)
Thanks
Brakes should not make you strain or worry to stop. Are they worn? , Fluid level ok? If they have been changed to ceramics ( any dust) they will take longer to stop you
Do you know the last time the brake fluid was flushed? If the previous owner(s) tracked the car but weren't religious about changing the fluid, that would seriously degrade the stopping power of the vehicle. (As would worn pads and/or rotors) There are few cars that can match a
Porsche
's stock braking capability, but even Porsches will show the effects of frequent hard driving or a lack of maintenance.
What was mentioned above and/or air or water in the system. Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years. If is takes a lot of effort you could have some air in the system.
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And the flush should be done correctly including an active flush of the ABS/PSM module. Failure to do that can result in air remaining in the system. You cannot do it by flushing/activating by hard braking the ABS. It requires a
Porsche
diagnostic tool to electrically activate each circuit in the module (there are 4 circuits, one for each corner) as the flush is done. The
Foxwell NT530
can do this on a 987. I'm not certain which other tools are capable of this.
Thanks for your replies guys, the car has a full
Porsche
service history and has never been touch but none
Porsche
mechanics.
The brake pedal is firm and not spongy, it's just past a UK MOT test and would fail if discs or pads where damaged or worn.
As I mentioned the brakes work fine but I just feel like I have to press harder on the pedal than expected. In my Audi I only use a small amount of pressure by comparison.
It's entirely possible the brakes require more foot-force to achieve the same de-accleration rates as your Audi (I haven't driven a recent Audi.) It's possible the Audi brakes use a softer pad or have more power-boost available.
Porsche
seems to err on the side of driver-involvement - the 987 standard power steering is an example. It's quite heavy even when compared to
Porsche
power steering on a Cayenne (I own both.) The difference is - it's much more accurate than the Cayenne steering and easier to get road-feedback into the steering wheel, making high-speed cornering move involving for the driver (you feel what the tires are doing, not just the g-force generated.) They both can corner beyond the reasonable expectations of most vehicles, but I have a lot more confidence cornering in the
Boxster
than the Cayenne.
I believe the brake force may be the same issue - my Cayenne initially has more bite than the 987
Boxster
, but when braking from higher speeds the Cayenne eventually requires more force to stop in the same distance (a simple factor of about 2,000 lbs difference in the vehicles.)
I'd suggest getting another 987 owner to try out your car and see if they feel the braking is normal. If it simply seems to require higher forces than it should, I'd be looking at the brake pads first (harder pads will do that, but also they resist heating better usually) and then perhaps that the vacuum lines going to the brake booster are intact.
I’m amazed how soft the brake feel is in my VW GTI after I’ve been driving my
987.2
. The difference is enough that I need to be conscious of it in either direction to not over or under brake. Could be that is all it is for you! Much prefer the
Porsche
sensations now.
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iPhone
using Tapatalk
Thanks your probably right, problem is I don't know any
cayman
drivers in fact I've only even seen a few on the road, must be fairly rare in the UK.
Just had another thought, my brakes are black not red being the 2.7, I believe the S brakes are bigger and may have more power. Maybe a brake swap in the future might be an option 🤔
George, Yes the Audi has more brake boost for those ladies going to the store. The issue is the modulation that can occur, especially in the wet. With more feel on the
Cayman
, you are much less likely to lock up the fronts, vs the Audi and understeer off the road. Just get used to the stiffer brake feel and have your system flushed and brake fluid renewed. If you were using a 6 speed manual, you would also notice a stiffer clutch feel as well. Just a note about brake modulation, I ran a Hoosier slick in a damp rain due to my home being close to the track. The soft A7 slicks worked great because I did not over modulate the brakes, even when I was in a late braking situation in one corner. A little heavier rain would have reversed my success though with hydroplaning issues as the slicks do not have water exit channels.
You might want to find a deserted parking lot or airstrip (I know those are rare) and try doing some maximum braking to get a feel for the brakes. If you can get the ABS to kick on - the brakes are working fine and your tires are the limiting factor in slowing down.
I swap between 3 vehicles almost daily. Even during the same day. Yea, it's a treat.
2021 F150 with all the bells and whistles. Takes the LEAST amount of effort to slow it down.
The Mazdarati (ND
Miata
) with aftermarket pads and rotors. Takes more effort to slow than a truck that weighs more than twice its weight
The
987.1
Base
Boxster
. Takes the most amount of effort amongst the 3
But the one that has the most breaking potential and the BEST feeeel is the
Porsche
by a fair margin over the Mazdarati and absolutely fantastic compared to the truck.
Properly functioning
Porsche
brakes are what
Porsche
thinks proper braking should be like. I absolutely agree. So linear and predictable, and much less assisted.
Of course this is subjective, but on the street I have no reason to upgrade to the S brakes. They do have additional braking potential, but the Base
Brembos
are awesome!
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Yes I am running 6 speed and yes I have noticed the clutch is quite heavy but just put it down to being a performance clutch.
On another subject do you know if
Cayman S
or
Boxster S
front brake calipers and discs (rotors) are a straight swap on a 2.7 with black calipers?
Thanks
As a side note is it normal to have to keep cleaning the wheels of brake dust even after short journeys. The wheels seem to have brake dust on them most of the time and I clean them every 3 or 4 days with no mileage really.
I don't know what pads are fitted but if someone has a good option let me know for street driving only, no track work at all.
Yes, Porsche brakes are harder to press on. They're not bad, just how they feel from the factory. Hope that helps as during the first few months of my ownership I also thought that my brakes were going bad.
I'm pretty sure mine is on oem pads. The most brake dust of any car I have ever had. Lol
They definitely are consumables because they sacrifice a little of their self every day.
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Yes - true, but it doesn't have to be that way. Good ceramic pads dust less and can perform just as well, if not better. I've never bought into the idea that dusty brakes are the price to be paid for "good" brake performance.
But, on the subject of brake pedal pressure, I'm also in the camp of preferring a pedal that takes more pressure as it's easier to modulate. Brakes that bite/grab very hard with little pedal pressure are definitely
not
what I prefer. That behavior is not at all related to good brake performance any more than an overly sensitive throttle is for acceleration control.
I had a KIA rental, I have to agree with blue shoes. The brakes were impressive but they actuated with a mere tap of the pedal. After some time, the driver gets used to it but as he stated progressive pedal latitude is better. I have no problem with brake dust if the pads have a nice feel and the system is without squeal but I do keep a separate wheel wash mitt and bucket because of said dust. Lastly, our cars are deceptively fast, when I first drove my 944 I thought the speedometer was off (it wasn't) the smoothness took me by surprise. Anyhow, my point is we are likely scrubbing more velocity and speed than we imagine by the butt dyno and as such use more pedal pressure, pad material and have to flush every two years for factory maintenance. Hey at least brake jobs are soothing and enjoyable in the world "home vehicle repairs".
One of the first things I noticed about my
Boxster S
is that the brakes took a lot more pressure to bite than I expected - I even mentioned it to the dealer. But after a week to two I got used to it and don't really notice it much at all now. But I will look for some more grabby pads for an upgrade. And I do think Audi over powers their brakes in general having driven a few. In my brother's SQ5 they are VERY grabby. So much so that he always complains when I drive it with him in it because I keep braking much harder than called for/intended because I'm not used to the brakes! You just barely tap the pedal and they almost go full lock . . . no me gusto!
Yeah different cars have different feel on the brakes and some feel more “grabby” than others, sounds like your Audi just gives a little more assist in the hydraulic pressure.
The brake dust on the stock pads is insane I agree, just a couple drives and the wheels are dark gray again, it’s pretty annoying.
The stock pads (Textar brand, I believe) do dust like crazy, so that issue is normal. Armor All makes a spray-on wheel wax that works very well for keeping your wheels clean. The wax helps to repel the brake dust.
Even the base brakes are fantastic on these cars, swapping to S brakes is un-necessary. Even on the track the base brakes (except for pads if you are an advanced driver) are more than adequate. It's likely that you just aren't used to the moderate force required to work the brakes on your
Porsche
. It's the same thing with the clutch.
I had a cursed set of stock textar pads that came with a spare caliper set I bought. You could push the pedal with both feet and not engage the ABS.
Replacing the pads resolved this.
What others have said regarding German cars and brake dust is true. If you are in a humid or wet climate you’ll also get more dust than usual, as the stock rotors oxidize very quickly when exposed to moisture. (I expect that if you are in the UK that applies to you.)
George, I bought a
2006 Cayman S
in 2018 after driving Acuras for years. I was stunned at how much pedal pressure was required on the
Cayman
. Actually nearly rear ended a few cars (not that close but too close). Those of us new to Porsches must remember, they are sports cars. I mean REAL sports cars, not a f***ing Camaro. I came to prefer the
Cayman
's brakes after a short time. I believe that's how the German engineers intended for them to feel. I've since traded the
Cayman
for a
Macan
Turbo and I have engaged the shoulder belt a few times because, in comparison, they're "touchy". Thanks for posting, good topic.
[QUOTE="
Cayman
George, post:
Hi Guys,
New to
Porsche
and
Cayman
ownership, very happy with the car but just need to know if my brakes are working correctly. Don't get me wrong they stop the car great but I need to use quite a lot of force which I've quickly got use to however when I get back in my Audi A6 the brake feel super sharp.
Is this normal or are the
Porsche brake
normally sharp ( If you know what I mean 🤔)
Thanks
[/QUOTE]
I have 2008
porsche cayman
base.my brakes still works great.i only changed the brake pads once.brake fluid has not been change yet and still working great.now i have 76,000 miles .much easier to check the fluid level and quality then you can proceed with the brake pads.just a suggestions.
Like others have mentioned it has to do with linear braking. In the track you have consistent predictable brake feel and performance. On Audis and most cars you get that grabby bite but try it multiple times and that grabby bite fades. On the
Porsche
you get the same stopping feel each time even as you get heat on the brakes. I have an Audi allroad(estate) and they are grabby initially but after some spirited driving on the back roads they start to fade.
Congrats on the new car as I am fairly new as well.
The brake dust is normal and it happened on my Audi too until I changed to ceramic. My
boxster
does it and I’ll probably be switching to ceramic
next
year and keeping the regular pads for track days.
My CS 07 started out this way, what I believe it to be is the pedal is always sitting on the booster. It was fine and I liked the very stiff pedal until it wouldn't release the brake when driving as it generated heat it started to clamp harder. I thought it was a frozen caliper, new set of calipers went on and it did it again. Check if your pedal is lacking free play.
Pedal is just firmer on the
porsche
. Compared to my
BMW
and ANY american car the
Porsche
pedal feels MUCH harder.
You will get used to it. I always warn anyone driving the car that they will think the brakes dont work the first time....PUSH HARDER!
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