17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHI got a Durametric, now what?
Reported or suspected cause
mouse
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Leading evidence: 'mouse' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'mouse' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam deviation' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I hooked it up today and here is the results (remember, I’m assuming I checked the right items):
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
V8 swapped jeep with their injection on the GM ls family v8 I used...
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use the same laptop to tune my Holley Terminator X EFI system on my V8 swapped Jeep.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Immediate upgrades will be an oil temp gauge and to replace the double din Kenwood with an Apple CarPlay head unit and drive the sh�t out of it all summer!
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
First off, a big thanks to this board and all of the helpful members! I lucked into my 996.1 cab and have learned quite a bit. I’m sitting at 145k and have mapped out all of the maintenance these 911s require to keep them happy. I absolutely enjoy driving this car!
It came with a Durametric. Took a bit to get it up and running (I didn’t have a laptop) but am up and running now. Now what? I understand that it is a deeper dive into the vehicle over a regular obd reader but I have no idea what to look for or to switch. What do you suggest? Why is this such a good tool? The instructions don’t exactly say where to start. I love learning and mastering what interests me. I’m determined to figure out the ($75) piwis thing so I can fix my rfid/remote issues and help others as well (and I know the Durametric doesn’t do that kind of programming).
My 996.1 cab has a hardtop, H&R lower springs on Bilsteins, 18” 997 rims w/ spacers running 225/40f & 275/35r, factory mid-length shifter, aftermarket exhaust, and the IMS, RMS, AOS & clutch all replaced. The paint has probably 2 full lipstick style touch-up paint bottle dabs all over
from a previous owner, so it has “freckles”. Don’t care because it’s a driver. Immediate upgrades will be an oil temp gauge and to replace the double din Kenwood with an Apple CarPlay head unit and drive the sh�t out of it all summer! Thanks for any advice!
Check over rev counters
check cam deviation
use it to test fans
clear out weird codes from the last time the battery died
read the engine oil temp without having to buy a gauge
I would start checking out books on tuning EFI cars at the library, not just Porsche but general cars, there is more information than it would be practical to answer on here.. Its a lot of vocbulary and then understanding what each reading means..
The durametric is reading out measurements of many engine functions and the interactive info from the car ECU, basically it's a fire hose.
First thing is just plug it in, hook it up and let it record data, then open the data file and look at the relation sips between engine
reading at various power levels, I just take mine out and let it record while I drive from dead stop to 50 mph, just so you can mentally compare what the car was doing to what you see.
It also allows some small programing things like activating some features or disabling them,
I dont fiddle with the programming menus much other than the one to reset he setting on my
convertible top and clearing codes if I put in new parts like a tune up if there are codes set.
good topic though I spend a fair amount of time on the Holley Terminator forum as I have a
V8 swapped jeep with their injection on the GM ls family v8 I used... Its been a heck of a education.
Good info, thank you both!
I get what you�re saying but I was more interested in finding more like a
�Durametric for Dummies�
guide. I�m wanting to deep dive into the tool itself. Just like monitoring the cam deviations, I�m sure that each specific function is there for a reason and I am in search of a list for �use this to monitor that�. Perhaps I�ll post a YouTube video with these specifics with the information I find. While I�m sure �real� Porsche mechanics understand the functions way more than a driveway Porsche wrench baboon (like myself
), I�m in search of the info to get the most out of the Durametric in my driveway. I guess my analogy is that it wasn�t enough to
have
a website, I learned to build and maintain one for both myself and others. Thanks for your input!
The computer and durametric side of tuning is what I call a skilled craft, Its like some other dynamic skills, Archery for example, arrows to the target are how you get better and getting a little coaching along the way is a good way to avoid bad habits..
There isn't really just one book that will teach you the whole skill set.
To run my durametric I bought a "open box" laptop computer at Best by, cost me like 600 bucks, its a IBM "yoyo" so when I flip the screen all the way back it folds in to a tablet and has a stylus whih works great for the stuff I usually do while driving. I use the same laptop to tune my Holley Terminator X EFI system on my V8 swapped Jeep.
Check fuel trims: RKAT ideally 0.00%, FRAU 1 is ideal, FRAO 1 is ideal.
If FRAU or FRAO are greater than 1 the computer is adding extra fuel to what it perceives is a lean mixture. The lean mixture is typically due to vacuum leaks. Smoke test your engine to track down and eliminate the leaks. If the fuel injectors are > 10 years old consider replacing them. Rich mixtures are one of the known causes which lead to bore scoring.
Good luck!
Greg
Thanks for all of the input! I hooked it up today and here is the results (remember, I’m assuming I checked the right items):
Started 17599 times for 4850 hours
No codes
No overrevs
All fans operating 100%
Oil temp at operating temperature = 148�
Cam position #1 = 9.13�
Cam position #2 = 7.98� (less than 4� difference)
All 6 rough running cylinders averaging between -.5 to 0
RKAT #1 = .33
RKAT #2 = .28
FRA #1 (FRAU?)= 1.09
FRA #2 (FRAO?)= 1.08 (both a fraction lean)
While I can’t explain what the fuel trim stuff means, I am assuming that the engine is fairly healthy. Topped up fuel with a bottle of Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Have everything except the oil for a transmission drain and fill. Please let me know if anything is scary!
Side note: the Durametric wouldn’t read the convertible computer, show any codes, or allow function checks for the convertible section.
You have 'Cam Position' figures measured, 'Cam Deviation' would be important and based on Porsche, if those are above 6* it would be a good time to change the VarioCam chain guides and chains (looks like you have a 996.1 with a 5-chain engine - MY 2001 or older 996).
If the Cam Deviations go past +/- 9*, then the car should throw a check engine light.
Then, if you tackle the above parts change, then there is other stuff that woud be good to do same time (like VarioCam actuator seals, etc.).
I bought the Durametric to sort out some faults on my Dad's 986.
Then I bought a 996.2 and sold the 986.
The 996.2 (a C4S) had constant, different OBD codes, but all engine sensor related.
I used the Durametric to read the code (write it down) and reset the code.
Some are "spurious signals" (a DC-10 pilot term), and some are REAL component/sensor/wiring/computer problems.
Mine turned out to be a mouse.
That little rodent had made a nest on the relay board under the back seats.
His urine was causing corrosion and connector faults with the relays.
I removed them, cleaned the contacts and wire terminals the best I could, and put them back in.
Then drove around for a while before I put the rear cabin back together (to make sure I could get to those relays easily)
That solved the problem!
And the Durametric was INVALUABLE in sorting those codes and clearing them.
There were no component failures, just bad connections...
I think I spent zero dollars fixing MULTIPLE engine sensor codes.
Paul
I had an all out war with some field mice that though my Jeep was the perfect winter condo location! They started chewing wires in the dash. How they got up the 35� tires is beyond me! Using the Durametric and spending $0 is a definite win!
As was pointed out earlier, -6 is spec. Meaning your pads need to be changed. I did mine a couple of years back at -6 and -4 respectively. Very happy I did them then. They were very grooved and I was getting plastic in my oil and yours are well past that. I would look this up. Plenty of info out there. The parts/pads are only 20 bucks or so a set but replacing them is a completely different story.
This is what mine looked like at -4 and -6.
Just a word of caution about using Durametric. It's a fantastic tool but make sure you're using the latest stable version of the software and have a solid laptop. I had an issue where Durametric froze and bricked my odometer reading 999,999mi. The folks at Durametric were very helpful in helping me fix it but we were unable to resolve. I was able to locate someone to help me fix it for a reasonable amount without fully replacing the cluster but just a word of caution. This is rare but the person who fixed my cluster has seen it a few times before.
