Front Wheel Knocking Noise

Hi, got a 1998 996 C2 with 66K on the clock. Just noticed a noise coming from the front wheels or suspension, it's a knocking and vibration that seems to only start after i've driven the car for about 30 miles and some distance. Someone mentioned it may be a wheel bearing, can anyone suggest what it may be? cheers

Think this needs to be in the 996 forum - this area is for help with the Forum itself - not the cars... I'll move it for you

Cheers Mark. If it is a clonking noise, it could be one of the anti-roll bar drop links. A very small amount of play in one of the ball joints can cause a big noise. If it is a creaking/groaning noise, this is often a lower wishbone ball joint. This usually happens when the car has been driven for a few miles, so might be what you are experiencing. You have to change the whole arm as the ball joint is integral. You'll be delighted to know that they went up in price last week, and are now about £185 each. [:'(] Both these are the common culprits. Other less likely culprits are anti-roll bar bushes, or strut top mounts.

Richard, I have the same problem. Do these have to be done straight away?? and are likely to cause other damage if left unattended for a while (say a 1000 miles)? Cheers, Steve

If you can stand the noise, there isn't any panic.

Any way of lubricating these lower wishbone ball joints? I think I've got a similar problem with the NSF one.

Hi Its the inner tie rods that need replacing, had the same problem which seems to be quite common yet very difficult to diagnose. When you take it in to be fixed tell them to look at the rods as they will ignore these and first look at the anti roll bar links etc which will be time consuming. If you're in London take it to Chiswick as they fixed mine and speak to Micheal, he'll know right away what needs doing. good luck.

That's interesting. When you say 'inner tie rod' which part do you mean?

Absolutely no idea unfortunately. My car was with Chiswick for 4 weeks as lifting the car on the ramp revealed nothing. They then proceeded to replace suspension parts on a trial and error basis, i.e change a part, then drive it for an hour. Unfortunately as the knocking only appears after an hour of driving this method would take time. On my behalf I searched on the net and called a few indy's for the problem and everyone mentioned the links, which the OPC replaced but were not the culprit. Finally found a post on the rennlist forum where the chap had the excersise already performed, the inner tie rods were his reason. I contacted Chiswick with this info but they had earlier that same day replaced the inner tie rods and the problem was solved. Here is the rennlist post http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=367453

Sounds like it might have been the lower control arm (item 3). I checked the US list price for this item, and it seems to be about the same as the rennlist poster says. As he says, this is rare - it is usually the lower wishbone ball joint that causes a creaking, and an anti-roll bar drop link that causes a clonking. That's where I would start looking, anyway. If possible, it's best to get the car on a 4-post lift and start poking around. That way you can have the car on its wheels and bounce the suspension to try and find the noise. Not really Tim - I used to have an old Merc W124 E280 Estate as a hack, and it had exactly the same issue. In desperation, I tried punching a small hole in the rubber boot, and using the applicator tube, squirted a load of WD-40 in there. It went quiet for about 2 months, and then came back.

I just thought I'd update this post because I originally found it researching the exact same problem I had i.e. the front suspension clattered and clunked after driving for 30 minutes or more, even just driving over road markings and small bumps would make the noise. Mine's done it to a degree for a few years but I assumed they all did it but recently it got worse to the point where it spoilt the car. When it was in at Hartech for a service I mentioned the problem but obviously it's very difficult to trace because of it only happening when it's been driven for a while and even then it wasn't as bad if it was a cold day or had been raining etc. To their credit they persevered with finding the fault and suggested replacing the " Forked control arms " on both sides. I collected the car yesterday and the noises are no more and it feels fantastic, like a new car!

You can lubricate the wishbone ball joint but unfortunately you need remove the arm to do it, you can then take the top sealing ring off slide up the boot slightly and swear grease in with your finger. The cheapest and easiest option I have found is to get exchange units from http://www.hartech.org/parts.html I'm just in the process of fitting Powerflex bushes to mine.