2012 987.2 Milage 108000

The check engine light came on. Scanned with Foxwell 530 and came up with error code P1346. Took to the local Indy and they also came upo with the same number. They told me it was the Cam Lift Solenoid. They replaced both sides and it ran well for about 8000 miles. Same thing happed again, this time I ordered the part and installed myself. Cleared code and went for a nice long ride after about 65 miles the check engine light popped back on. Scanned and came up with the same code P1346. Before I take it back to the Indy I was hoping someone might know what’s going on. Thank you Warren

Hi Warren, welcome to Planet-9, the Friendly Porsche Forum... There are two solenoids on the VarioCam Plus engines - one for cam timing, one for valve lift. Each bank has one. Questions that help make a more intelligent response: What year/engine/model are we discussing? What cam solenoid are we talking about? What oil are you using and are you using any additives? What's the service history and have you owned it for long? Do you have the old parts? The reason I'm asking these questions is: Difficult to give accurate suggestions if we don't know some basic facts.. we're not Facebook (thank Dog!) - so we need something to chew on.. We've got two of them (2012, 987.2) - so which engine? Good to know what we're talking about.. If you're using some awful oil (doubtful) then it might be causing these to stop responding, and if you have any additives like Ceracoat - that might be accumulating in the solenoid causing it to stick. If the car is new to you - and you don't know how frequently the oil was changed - I'd think that it might be like a leased car - only maintenance done to keep it going. And there could be sludge buildup in the engine that's breaking free with whatever oil you've used in the engine (which undoubtedly has a good detergent package.) You can test the parts off the car. You need a source of 12V and maybe some compressed air. I went and checked your code in the official Porsche code book: OK - so it's the ones at the end of the heads. I've had one act up on my Cayenne - and replacement was the answer. Surprisingly the shop doing it (not known as a discount shop at all) offered up a less expensive one, which comes from some other source - but they claimed it was identical to the Porsche one. Apparently, they were familiar with this issue due to 911's having the problem. It runs like crap when it's stuck. Mine did it in the first 10 minutes of driving then would clear up for the day. This is a case where I might actually think about using an oil detergent additive - then run it fairly hard for a few days - and change the oil. If it's Improved - do the detergent again and the change again after a few thousand miles. What detergent? I'm sure some people will have suggestions. If that doesn't help - I'd want to screw an oil-pressure gauge in place of the solenoid, and start the engine - see what the oil pressure at that point is. Something else might be causing a drop in oil pressure, and the solenoid opening isn't adequate to activate the valve lift mechanism. If you're comfortable removing the solenoids - then perhaps you might be comfortable trying to physically clean the oil passage using something like a trombone brush (check Amazon - great for Porsche drains too). Be interesting if that results in any sludge being removed. FWIW - my Cayenne (turbo) hasn't repeated this issue in about 20,000 miles since I had the solenoid replaced. Stupidly I didn't ask for the old one to see what might have caused the failure. If it happens again I'll ask for the old one. BTW - when you have a chance - please visit https://www.planet-9.com/forums/new_members/ and introduce yourself and your Cayman. Pictures get us all excited - so try to post a few (of the car, or if you want, yourself..) And once again - Welcome to Pllanet-9

2012 Boxster Base 2.9L 6Cyl GAS I’ve owned for 2 years. Had 96000 miles when purchased now 108000. Changed oil 2 times since ownership. Using Liqui moly 5w-40 no additives. Have sent oil sample to Blackstone both times and they gave great reports. Do not know service history. I don‘t have the old parts from the first repair. Do have the current one still in car. Bank (1) is the one replaced both times. OES Camshaft Adjuster Solenoid - 9A1 105 308 03. Car runs fine no hesitation idles fine the Engine light does not blink. Sitting at traffic light when engine light popped on.

I wonder what your oil pressure was when the light blinked on... I guess you don't have the 997research.com gauge kit.. it can display oil pressure (and lots more) on a 987.2 I was assuming it's not electrical which may not be a good assumption. I know the new solenoid has nice clean contacts on it when it's installed - have you or the mechanic cleaned off the connector that plugs into it? If the original one failed due to an oil leak that went along the modulator pins - there is a possibility it pushed some oil up into the connector and that's causing connectivity issues that are triggering the light. Even a very brief disconnect probably will trigger that warning and code. Just noodling. It happened at the end of a spirited drive? When idling? I'd love to know the oil pressure, and to see if that oil path is free flowing (involving removing the solenoid with the engine running and seeing if oil squirts out.

I forgot to mention that when the car is cold at start up the idle is very rough. It will go up and down to where I have to keep foot on gas peddle to keep running. After the initial warm up it runs fine no problems.

How old is the 12V battery? I have seen at least one other user show this code with a bad battery. If it's >5 years, and/or has EVER been dead/jumped, I'd replace it anyway. If you take a voltage reading after being parked overnight, that can tell us a little about the condition as well (it's not a perfect measurement, but it's better than nothing if you are trying to save the battery).

Same symptoms I had on the Cayenne - your valve is sticking or there is no oil pressure.. it is electrically OK since it eventually does activate (and the car runs fine..)

The date on battery reads Dec 2018. Put Tester says 12.2 Volts

You're in good hands here, @Warrenlo -- All four of us in this thread so far have the 2.9L and they're incredibly reliable cars (mine is at 258K miles and counting). I'd go with what @deilenberger says and give that a shot. But before anything else, if you're only getting 12.2V, that seems very low to me. 12.3V is generally the cut-off of a good battery, but YMMV. Swing by your local Costco for a good deal on an H7 made by Interstate and at least you'll rule that out in minutes.

Somewhere I have the chart - but at 12.2V your battery is about 50% discharged. I'd take Foodbiker's suggestion - a new battery helps give you peace of mind - and in the grand scheme of things it's not that expensive.

Let us know how it works out..

As others said, that battery is old. 2018 and 12.2V? Replace it. These cars are notoriously sensitive to low voltages on the battery. Just to confirm, did you take that 12.2V reading after an overnight, or in some other state? Many manufacturers recommend waiting up to 24 hours before taking the SOC voltage on an un-connected battery. I find overnight is sufficient, but I want to be sure you did that, at least.

Yes the car has been sitting for the last 3 days. I’m headed to Costco to get a new battery and see if it makes any difference. As for the Liqui Molly Engine Flush and oil change I’ll have wait till next week. Wife and I will be out of town four some R&R.

I replaced the Battery erased the codes. Started up, ran rough some error lights came on. As I drove error lights turned off engine smoothed out and ran very well. Drove it 10 miles and everything appears fine. No more check engine light. The real proof will be in the morning when it’s cold. Thanks Guy’s I’ll let you know if problem reappears. Warren

More important - let us know if the problem DOESN'T reappear!

Well, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is BACK! I‘ve driven it for 59 miles since changing Battery. Sitting at traffic light just idling and the Engine Light came on. Motor was running smooth and then it just popped on. Haven’t checked error code yet will in the morning. But I’m sure it’s the same P1346. Warren

Well, you've seen my posts above.

Yes, I’m thinking I’ll do the engine flush. (Moly version)

Do check the code again, anyway... just to be sure...

Update 11/3/2024, I did check the code again before doing anything and it was P1346 as before. Since then I have used Moly Engine Flush as directed and changed the oil and filter. The oil was very dark and dirty. I let the oil drain for about 45 minutes it took 8.5 quarts of oil to fill. I cut up the oil filter and it was clean of debris. There was approximately 500 miles since last oil change. So far after 190 miles NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT! However when starting from cold state the idle is very rough. I have to give it throttle to keep it running. After a few minutes it’s fine runs very smooth and almost feels stronger than before And will start just fine the rest of the day. After sitting till morning then again the same rough idle. I’m thinking about doing the cleaning again to see if it helps the rough idle. Warren

Your Foxwell can read the engine temperature - and plot it. I'd love to see what the ECU is getting as far as temperature info. It sounds as if it's either really rich on cold start or really lean. Really rich would mean there might be a leaky injector (which dribbles into the cylinder while the engine is off) or the temperature the ECU is seeing is wrong, and it thinks the engine is warmer than it is, and giving it a leaner mixture than it needs to run. It might also be informative to plot the desired camshaft angle/lift vs actual camshaft angle/lift - right from a cold engine start.