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YOUR RESEARCHOil pump cover removal - How to?
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Check oil filter, no signs of metal everything looked good
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Checked oil filter, no signs of metal everything looked good.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Indy want to change the oil pump but it seems we can inspect the gears and driver first?
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Looked into old invoices and 4 years ago they replaced the sender too�
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Hey guys,
Low oil pressure situation 0-8-1 bar hot idle and 3-3,5k under load. Cold start up pressure around 4 bar. Allready changed the spring/piston and did maybe a small improvement. Pressure sender was changed last year.
Indy want to change the oil pump but it seems we can inspect the gears and driver first?
Whats involved step by step to take cover off?
There was an idea to measure pressure with a external gauge also to see if sender is bad or the instruments.
Thanks for inputs!
I think you can save yourself the effort as the pump most likely will not be the cause.
Remove the oil filter instead and check for glitter that will then probably be bearing material. The worn bearings cause the low oil pressure.
Should you still want to remove the oil cover remove all the bolts and pull it away from the engine case
Yeah its sad to change the pump setting the wallet back 1300$ at the indy if the pumps never basically wear out. Thats why i want to do some testing before.
New original sender last year, could that be defect..?
A filter check would be good of course.
Do I need to drain the cover somehow before, through the spring or something? Nothing else need to be removed before the cover?
Definitely!
Lots of crappy electronic parts have hit the market over the last couple of years.
Even Bosch!
That's where I would start.
After that I would drop the sump to check the pickup screen.
I'd do both before touching the oil pump.
Looked into old invoices and 4 years ago they replaced the sender too�
Makes me think this issue has been there for some time. Although only 2500 miles ago.
And same indy thought we should change it last year again when we told him about the issue.
The car was also bought from said indy 2 years ago and already after 1 month we started seeing the low pressure signal and asked him what to do? I can change the sender and see..So we changed it and oil/filter. Makes me think the filter is not imploded anyway since the issue was there after the change.
Engine was built 18000 miles ago by same indy.
if bearings would be the case, is it the main crank bearings and what�s the estimate of these? Other signs of bad main bearings?
Hey guys,
Update from recent investigations.
Shop measured pressure externally and the pressure was still low so intrument gauge and oil sender ok.
Checked oil filter, no signs of metal everything looked good.
Checked sump and pick up. Sump had qoute "cookie crumble" pieces of something white hardish in the sump and little on the pick up but could not tell what it was. What do you guys think? Nothing that held back pressure though.
Changed oil pump, which looked good...
Pressure on idle 0,9 bar is fine but wont pass 3500 on revs.
So basically everything external on the motor checked.
Everyone involved states that the bearings should be ok otherwise the engine would already been collapsed and sounded bad.
So...they might think there is something blocking an iol passage somewhere and next step is engine out and start from valve/cam covers and see if something is there.
Whats your thoughts?
Is this a 996.2 or 996.1? ( it makes a difference)
What weight oil was used during pressure testing ?
What was oil temperature during pressure testing?
Exactly what was the pressure at 4k RPM ?
What was the exact pressure and idle speed during the idle test ?
Need to know all this to give advice...
I assume you did check the oil filter for crushing ..right ?
OP - Were the rod and main bearings replaced as part of the rebuild? If you haven’t done any used oil analysis, you may want to start now. Getting cold again where you are, so may not be a good time to go to a thicker oil. I’m thinking along the line hardtailer is taking…bearing wear.
Yes we (shop) are considering piston squirters as a risk.
There were no glitter/signs of metal but yes analysis would tell i guess.
Crank and rods were balanced and new bearings yes.
Yes zero today but will not drive anymore as of now anyways!
From the answers you gave above I'm sure the problem is serious and internal but just a few more questions if you will...
When did the low oil pressure problem begin ?
Was it present right after the rebuild ?
Did it come on slowly over time ?
Did it happen all of a sudden ?
and lastly, what was the reason for the rebuild ?
So the engine is apart and the mechanic cant find anything. Everything looks ok.
The squirters look good
They pressurized the camshaft assy
Nothing obvoius they are thinking internal leakage.
I wonder if a bad assembly before could have made it leak internally. So putting it together again is a risk but what else to do if eveything looks good...?
Mechanic
Not looking in the right places, because as you know there is a problem.
Got to go back to basics, some engine internal spec is way out.
No secret here in how to build for proper oil pressure.
The m96 main oil pump is a very capable high volume pump, if it can't keep up, there is a lot of oil draining out of m96 oiling system,,, or the sump is going dry....
The only way to verify a tight oil system that will properly oil the m96 correctly is to use a good set of micrometers and small bore gauges, and good flat edge/feeler gauges. Along with good engine build mechanical practices. For me, I verify every oil clearance/specs measurement twice in any engine I build.
There is no shortcut here.
Disassemble complete engine, every nut and bolt, clean completely, measure everything. Make sure to measure crank carrier half's for flatness, they need to be perfect flat or oil pressure will leak as they are used as a oil pressure vessel/gallery. Might want to use a very thin coat of case sealer on the (verified straight & flat) crank carrier or have a machine shop groove the carrier for an o-ring seal. Measure every bearing bore in at least 4 places. Measure/check lifter cradle sealing areas and its bores and lifters for correct bore to lifter fit, R&R as needed. Check for burrs(or anything) at head bolt holes/bores that keep them from sealing as they are used as oil gallery vessels...
I'd give any m96 mechanic and owner, the benefit of doubt when it comes to m96 engines. Huge commitment, the burden of cash/time needed to properly build an m96...As A lot of $hortcut$ where taken in m96 engine design, making for a difficult, expensive engine to build correctly with many potential pitfalls along the way...
Good luck...
jmho...
I know this is kind of an old thread, but, the OP needs to run a different oil and thicker weight. A 15W/50 would be a good choice and okay. Porsche Classic Oil
it’s this far apart did you take apart the crank carrier and measure main bearing , and rock bearing clearances, and see if the squirters are in place?