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YOUR RESEARCHKW coilover suspension for Porsche Cayman S
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Install kw v3
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Leading evidence: 'Install kw v3' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'most difficults one' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install kw v3' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Finding the right expertise is probably the most difficults one.
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Suggestion
I've had the bump softer, harder and now at KW recommended settings.
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Suggestion
I know the Motons are overkill, and at $4500 for just the shocks, they are a bit extreme price wise outside a full on track car, but given the flexiblity that you can get out of them for street and track use, I really want them........
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Suggestion
The other is how much compression resistance is needed to keep the outside wheel from total compression as in racing/cornering as compared to using the swaybar to prevent weight transfer.
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I used and sold KWs before, they are truly very good coilovers. Their shock valving is very nicely balanced, nice to drive on the street and good performer on the track, especially the V3. I'd recommend if anyone is considering it.
I do not know the answer. However, looking at the suspension of the Cayman w/PASM, mechanically it is no different. However, what needs to happen on the electronics/computer side is something I am not familiar with.
The V3 prices are generally within the market average and are probably somewhere between $2200 to $2500. The installation of coilovers are relatively easy, but also depends on the car. I have not done an installation myself on the latest models, but on 993 it was not that difficult. The rear components are a little tricky, but if you take the time and have some mechanical inclination, you would alright. At the same time, if you have never done such a job on any car, just take it to a reputable installer and get it done, it should not cost more than $300-400.
There are additional, hidden, costs as well. With coilovers, fiding the proper ride height for your purposes may be difficult. However, if it is a street application, you should just corner balancing it matching factory weight distribution front and rear as a start, which can cost between $200-450. The KWs do not come with pilowball upper mounts for camber plates. That's an additional cost of about $300. Picking one should be done carefully as they may or may not fit and you want high-quality items, not just any camber plates. Then, there is the whole alignment issue, which cost upwards of $400-500 as you would most likely do the alignment few times until you get your preferred settings.
Many think that coilovers are just bolt-on performance products, which is true on the surface. But I can tell you that the components are the tip of the iceberg. Finding the right expertise is probably the most difficults one. Suspension tuning is truly a black art and hard to reap the benefits. That's why not many people tackle it as a professional service.
Cheers,
I'm interested in a set of those, but... on another forum somebody was saying that had noise with their KW v3. However that could have been their new camber plates.
Has anyone fitted KW v3 on a
Cayman
?
Was there any noise from the coilovers?
Extra KW v3 question...
Were you able to adjust them in place (bump and rebound) or could you only get at the bump on the bottom without pulling things apart?
I'll chime in with what I've found out so far:
Judging by the picture in the first post I'd guess the front was progressive and the rear has a static spring rate. Assuming these represent the units used for
Caymans
.
The standard KW v3 rates are
front 230 lbs/in
rear 400 lb/in
For comparison the non-
PASM
Cayman S
is:
front 154 lbs/in
rear 228 lbs/in
However the
PASM
Cayman S
is:
front 188 lbs/in
rear 263 lbs/in
So the KW v3 has a much higher spring rate but you can vary the damping.
Another example is the Cross coilover:
front 448 lbs/in
rear 616 lbs/in
I think they tuned more for the racing end of the scale.
You would have to talk with your KW suspension agent/KW for their custom spring and valving systems. I think the custom jobs are usually for those building a track car. Sharkwerks may have fitted some KW v3's to
Caymans
.
Kman, wish I did. Especially as many have reported that they ride so nicely on the road. It would be good to put up all the rates
next
to each other. The ones above are all that I've collected so far in coming to a decision about which way to go for myself.
However spring rates are only part of the equation. Different springs and shock behave differently depending on amount of compression or speed/amount of movement etc. Which might be why some vendors are cagey about publishing them..
The Atlanta
BMW
Club had a gathering at Kinetic on Saturday hosted by Nic and Boris Said, and the Moton reps where there. I know the Motons are overkill, and at $4500 for just the shocks, they are a bit extreme price wise outside a full on track car, but given the flexiblity that you can get out of them for street and track use, I really want them........ like I have nothing else in my life to spend $5000 on...............
Do any of you know anyone who has splurged on Motons, other than on a dedicated track car??
By the way, the Kinetic shop is extremely impressive, and being 20 minutes from my house, I can say I have found where I'll be taking the car for any "non dealer" work.
I'm surprised at how low those spring rates are - they're lower than
S2000
OEM and aftermarket springs, and it's a lighter car!
IIRC, I had 445 lb./in. front and 385 lb./in. rear springs on my last
S2000
w/ Konis and GC coilovers.
William, just saw your post. Yes you could fit the KW v3 and I think they do a different set of springs (slightly softer). In fact you will probably have more brands to choose from than the
Cayman
by virtue of having been around longer.
But
for just about all of them you would have to disable the PASM. No real problem if you are going to track only with it, but I think it's a little bit of a waste to not use such a neat feature on a road car, especially when you've already paid for it.
So I think you should look at the Bilstein PSS damptronic that Kman has on his car. I believe it's the only PASM coilover available. Do a search :>
you can't compare spring rates from car to car. there is a motion ratio which basically describes the differance between how much the wheel moves relative to the spring compression as the suspension goes through its travel. motion ratios X spring rate gives you wheel rate which is a better comparison. a 400lb spring on one car may be quite "stiff" vs. same spring rate on another. s2K has front upper and lower control arms, vs. strut on a CS right? so the geometry is differant so that i imagine is going to account for a diff in motion ratio.
Quick update.
I got my KW v3 coilovers fitted. The bump is adjustable at the bottom of the shock with a little effort - you can't see what your doing without a hoist. The rebound needs access to the top of the shock for adjustment. Easy for front but you have to pull carpet out at the back to get to it - pain. Ride height adjustment requires a spring compressor so a trip to the suspension shop for me.
I've had the bump softer, harder and now at KW recommended settings. Even on hard I think the suspension seems no more harsh then factory (non-
pasm
) for sharp cracks in the road. On all settings the suspension soaks up higher G loads better and stays flatter - just scored fastest slalom in my group. So I'm extremely pleased - have been able to bring the ride height down a lot (and back up a little due to conflict with the ground after it settled lower still), the high speed behavious is improved and the around town comfort is quite satisfactory.
I just bought an 06, non-
PASM
Cayman S
, 35k miles, cleanest one I've found. The previous owner installed
Eibach lowering springs
, as a result, I can't get up my driveway without scraping. The ride is also quite jarring on all but the smoothest of roads and there is a lot of negative camber dialed in (although the Yokohama Advan Neova(s) wear is even). He used to occasionally track the car and the handling is nothing short of amazing.
I have no intention of tracking the car, and since I have to start over anyway, I need recommendations on what to install to get a smooth ride. I'd prefer not to go with the stock ride height, but if that what it takes to get a smooth ride, I'll install standard springs.
I saw a post on ******** that stated the K&W coilovers provided a smoother ride than OEM springs.
Is this possible with a higher spring rate? Maybe shock valving makes this possible????
How do K&W compare with
Bilstein
?
Might I suggest
Ohlins
. We use and sell all of the brands you mentioned but
Ohlins
in regards to performance for performance ride better. We made custom
Bilsteins
for my rally car and run them on our Luckydog car. We run KWs on one of our enduro Subarus but when we have the option to run
Ohlins
it is the best option hands down. I run them on my 500+ hp
987.1
and on my 600+ hp STI. We custom valve the
Ohlins
Road & Tracks with our tailored springs rates. Usually we go up in rate compared to OTS (off the shelf) but we occasionally go down too. OTS rates are 400/485 lbs/in and 343/400 would offer ~14% softer ride with significantly better handling than OEM.
Regarding the KW vs
Bilstein
I would go KW if those are your only contenders. Let me know if you have any questions.
Joshua
I would support Ohlin R&T's recommendation here as well. I have installed mine just after Ohlin's release for the 987 four years ago without any negative issues. I am using the standard Ohlin spring rates of 400 lbs/in f and 458 lbs/in r. Some owners use these coilovers for the track, while most use them for all around use. Some of us use them for autocross, spirited canyon driving and backcountry roads. Spring rates are tricky to figure. In reality, how bumpy of roads are you going to use your equipment on. That really determines one edge of your spring. The other is how much compression resistance is needed to keep the outside wheel from total compression as in racing/cornering as compared to using the swaybar to prevent weight transfer. Some use 350 lbs/in f and 500 lbs/in as the best all around choice. By ordering from Joshua@arcflash, he can tune your shocks to your needs. You car most likely has adjustable swaybars and adjustable downlinks as well. From the looks of the ride height, your car most likely has adjustable rear toe links which make your toe in possible at your ride height.
Just from the picture, it looks well sorted out, except for your driveway scraps. Take a look under your car to see if there was a skid plate over the extended sump, That maybe where you scrape.
Thanks Apex1. Where is the extended sump located?
The
next
few days are going to be warm in MI, I'll get underneath to see what exactly is being scraped. It DOES sound like something substantial & metal as opposed to the fascia. You are correct in that a previous owner went through extensive measures to set it up for optimal handling. It would almost be criminal to undo everything.
I'm glad I have all winter to come up with a solution.
I would be pleased if I could just raise my front about 1" to match the rear. Not only would it even the stance, but it will be sufficient for my front fascia to clear my driveway apron without scraping.
I see Jegs and Summit sell spring spacers typically targeting muscle cars.
Could these be used with my
Eibach lowering springs
?
