New-to-me 996 C2

Hi folks! Have been hanging out here for a while but my most often visited English speaking forum is Boxa.net since I have a 986 S that I'm gradually turning into a track-only car. Since it's out of commission for the moment, getting a 3.4 liter Carrera engine transplant, I decided to get another fun car for the summer. The choice ended up being a nice but leggy 2001 996 C2 Tiptronic. It had a few niggles when I picked it up, mainly uneven running on tickover and a slightly jerky auto box, I fixed that by swapping an ignition coil and ATF plus filter for the 'box. Now it runs like a dream and I appreciate the Tiptronic box a lot more than I thought I would. I even have a 6 speed manual that I was thinking of putting in the car but I've abandoned that idea... :roll: However, I have a few remaining issues that I'm hoping you guys could help me understand. 1) The remotes don't work I've exchanged the batteries and the lights flash when I press the button but nothing happens. A friend of mine had this procedure that was supposed to "reset" the fobs but it didn't help. No problem w/ normal unlocking, alarm gets enabled and disabled as it should anf no wasrnings whenm I look at the alarm module using PST3 or Durametric (have both). Any idea what could be the problem? 2) Driver side window doesn't go down when opening the door When I open the driver's door from the outside, the window initially goes down, but as soon as I release the handle, it goes back up. But not quite every time... I guess there must be some micro switch somewhere that is acting up, I haven't found the solution anywhere yet. 3) The cruise control is acting weird Sometimes, the cruise control light is lit when I start the car, sometimes it isn't. If it's lit, I can use cruise control as I should, until I press cancel - in which case the light goes out and doesn't come back until I cycle the ignition. It's OK if I deactivate cruise control by braking, though - then I can re-engage it as I should. Weird - probably related to the P1576 error below. 4) Battery is drained over time I have an trouble shooting workflow from the service manual involving an ampere meter and values for what the expected values are. I haven't run that yet - to do for the weekend. 5) Fuel gauge shows wrong values The car is originally from the US and it was imported, the instruments were swapped for metric ones. I found out that the new dash was from a C4 which, apparently, has a different fuel tank and thus a different algorithm for calculating fuel level. From what I've heard, that's hardcoded into the instrument and the instruments have different part numbers since the softawere is different and that is not something that is easily changed - can anyone confirm this? It's not a terrible hassle, I just have to refuel more often - but I 'd like to have a correct reading if possible. Then I have a few error codes left, those are possibly a bit trickier: P0650 - Check Engine light Probably someone back in the day who didn't want a presumptive buyer to face a CEL... I'll look into that during the weekend, swapping the light bulb if necessary. P1397 - Camshaft sensor Thisa one's a bit tricky. The US engine (which I presumably have) has two sensors, RoW has one. This is due to emissions issues, apparently. BUT: according to the previous owner, the engine was swapped when the car was imported to Sweden. That may or may not be relevant... Either way, I'll swap the no 2 sensor to see if this changes anything. P0410-0411 Secondary Air Injection System This seems to be a US-only or M96/04-only system since none of my mates recognize it. I believe it's emissions related but I'm not sure. Do you know? P0740 - This is the tricky one I got this error and figured it was related to the jerky transmission since the trouble shooting guide said change ATF. I did, situation improved, error still present. The analysis says "torque converter clutch malfunction" and I can see that it does, the gearbox never locks up. Manual says either pressure regulator 4 is broken, the electrical lines to the pressure regulator are severed, the valves themselves or the clutch in the torque converter. Tricky, I'm leaning towards replacing the pressure regulator and hoping that tyhis will fix the issue. Despite these issues, I really like the 996! A proper sports car that doesn't breakl the bank. It looks and feels the part, my plan to sell it ASAP seems to fall apart...

More cleverer people will be along shortly :grin: Just wanted to wish you, and DeMort, good luck :thumb:

I'm guessing there's some subtle message in your response that goes over my head, perhaps because I'm not a native English speaker. If you'd like to explain that to me then at least I would learn something...

Sorry buddy, you'll get used to me if the Code of Conduct has not been breached :hand: DeMort is the oracle of all things Porsche, resident forum member who can fix anything Porsche. Didn't mean to offend... :thumb:

Ah - I started googling "demort" and came up short. I did learn, however, that "vol de mort" in french means "Theft of death"... :grin: I seem to be touching the boundaries of my competence here so I'd certainly like to see some more cleverer people! :worship:

http://911uk.com/search.php?search_author=deMort Apologies if I've confused you, see link above helpful replies by deMort :mechanic: :thumb:

key fobs is pretty common, usually needs a replacement at Porsche to sort? you might be lucky and reset one both??? However this gets asked pretty often and usually needs a dealer visit. The battery drain is another common issue and most of us have them sat on C-Tek type trickle chargers to combat this problem. There is a microswitch in the handle area, mine did a similar thing and the plug connection was loose and it fixed mine. I do know of people replacing the microswitches due to failing. worth popping the door card off to see if its easy enough or not. not sure on cruise, they aren't the most intuitive to work, mine turns off over a bump as the clutch pedal rattles. I know this won't be the issue on yours! fuel gauge, sounds like you might have a crossover from the different specs?? would leave that for Demort to suggest anything. Anyway lovely car, hope you keep us updated on the progress Thanks Nick

The door window issue is probably due to problems with the lock mechanism, sometimes the microswitches fail, sometimes it's the circuit board track that fails. It's a VAG part (8N2837016B), I think it's of an Audi TT, it's expensive from Porsche but much cheaper elsewhere. It's quite easy to change but have a read on this site for advice, the link to the actual lock is quite fragile. Take care with the water barrier behind the door card and you may be able to reuse it, they're £50 each and you will get wet carpets if it's damaged.

Ok .. there are an awful lot of different issues here so ill work through them .. deMort .. a close enough guess .. it means Of Death or From Death .. couple that with the spanners on my Avatar and it's a play on words .. cars fear me lol . Ok to work .. I've never really had much luck in getting inop remotes to work again .. a reversal of the battery in the fob is all i bother with these days and after that its a replacement key fob ... try the different options of locking / unlocking but all i can say is its never worked for me . Drivers window fault .. i would lean towards it being the door lock assembly .. there are many micro switches in this unit .. it's pretty easy to see on a tester though as we can see the signals from each switch .. if the door is saying its closed when its open then its obviously a door lock issue .. Get a tester on the car and check the lock values please . Cruise control fault .. P1576 Cruise Control Standby Lamp – Above Limit, or Below Limit, or Open Circuit Possible causes: – Short circuit to B+ in wiring – Short to ground in wiring – Break in wiring Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/18, to instrument cluster, pin I/16, for short to B+. I would replace the bulb in the instrument cluster as a starting point here . Battery goes flat .. many different reasons for this .. if you can connect an amp meter on the neg side and get a reading of what the drain is it will help .. you need to leave it at least 40 mins due to a lambda sensor burn off routine .. this needs to finish before you get an accurate reading .. Typical items are the radio system .. a tracker that has been fitted and the battery on this has died .. you will get a pulsed reading every 30 seconds of upto 1 amp or a glove box light switch has failed and its on permanently .. you will get a beep on locking the car with a fob if this is a cause . A C4 fuel tank is very different from a C2 .. a C4 has to be calibrated to the sensor .. a C4 gauge in a C2 and that will cause an issue .. i'm unsure of a work around there . At a guess i would check instrument cluster codeing to see if it can be altered to a C2 .. if not i would try and cheat here .. remove the fuel sender unit .. move the sender up and down and see what readings you get on the gauge .. if there is a point that it reads empty i would bend the arm to simulate that point .. ie the float sits on top of the fuel .. bend the arm to the point the fuel is at the bottom and the gauge reads empty . If not a new instrument cluster is req . fault codes .. Someone has removed or damaged the eml light bulb . cam sensor bank 2 .. depending on the year .. 2001 i believe and earlier there wasn't one fitted for our market .. if it's a different engine .. USA which may have had one but the DME ( engine control unit ) is a UK spec then you will have a conflict ... carry on with the tests you are doing . Secondary air .. its an air pump that dumps fresh air into the exhaust manifold to fast warm a cat .. many different faults are possible here .. a mix and match of different market systems will easily cause an issue .. further investigation .... is required . post has been edited to include my current thoughts .

Previous post has been edited to reflect my thoughts . I forgot to add .. tip fault .. it seems to be the torque convertor ..