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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHOil filler tube
Reported repair
Repair with black heat shrink electrical ducting
Reported resolution
1
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0
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1
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Reported fix
Fixed with black heat shrink electrical ducting which was just big enough in diameter to fit over the pipe from the top.
Leading evidence: 'Repair with black heat shrink electrical ducting' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair with black heat shrink electrical ducting' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Repair with black heat shrink electrical ducting', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
On the plus side I can see the PO had a very recent starter motor fitted which is always good news.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced the oil filler tube on my C2 it's not easy to do.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Also used the self amalgamating tape as a temporary fit which worked very well.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It's old and shows signs of previous repair so I'm not overly bothered but has anyone changed one and can give me a heads up on tips or pitfalls to be aware of.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It's old and shows signs of previous repair so I'm not overly bothered but has anyone changed one and can give me a heads up on tips or pitfalls to be aware of.
Use some 8mm copper microbore as a temporary fix; however
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Suggestion
I also broke the small coolant bracket as it was so brittle and used some 8mm copper microbore as a temporary fix; however, it actually feels better than the plastic bracket so I might fashion a permanent solution myself.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
The rearmost bolt has to be done by feel as others have said but a small ratchet worked for me.
Whilst "doing stuff" in the engine bay I've managed to snap my oil filler tube in half in the flexi section.
It's old and shows signs of previous repair so I'm not overly bothered but has anyone changed one and can give me a heads up on tips or pitfalls to be aware of.
I did a repair with amalgamating tape, which worked really well, even on the ribbed section. It wont crack either.
It's good stuff, sort of like rubber which melts into itself, if you've never seen it before.
A how to thread by GT4 from some years back;
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=682919
His name has cropped up in a current thread, he may no longer post on 911uk but his legacy is there for all to see and is still helping many.
I replaced the oil filler tube on my C2 it's not easy to do.
You have to get the alternator out which has some tricky bolts but nothing like as difficult as getting the ones that hold the oil filler tube in place. You need a flex joint to get it them but it's really hard to get any torque on them to budge them if they are stuck. Reassembling is also rather stressful as you really don't want to drop any of the bolts down the hole where the oil filler tube sits.
Hope that helps.
Thanks all, I did see a few you tube vids where is was done by just removing the alternator. I've now got my alternator off and it looks feasible this way However I can't get a new tube until next week so there will be no Easter ride outs for me.
On the plus side I can see the PO had a very recent starter motor fitted which is always good news.
YPVS, a repair did cross my mind but it is 22 years old with previous repairs and is really brittle so I decided against.
I wouldn't mind I was only changing the 6" coolant hose that runs behind the pulleys..... :roll:
That's great news you managed to get this far.
I used something like this to get access to the oil filler tube bolts.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mixed-Flex...n&qid=1617392694&sprefix=flixible+sock&sr=8-8
Thought I would add some comments to this topic as I replaced my filler neck this evening.
Getting the alternator out is indeed a right faff but getting it back in was surprisingly easier. I found a small ratchet spanner the best tool to get the filler neck bolts out. I also broke the small coolant bracket as it was so brittle and used some 8mm copper microbore as a temporary fix; however, it actually feels better than the plastic bracket so I might fashion a permanent solution myself.
Its really not too bad of a job once you've got the alternator out of the way. The rearmost bolt has to be done by feel as others have said but a small ratchet worked for me.
Also used the self amalgamating tape as a temporary fit which worked very well.
When trying to refit awkward bolts that you cant fit by hand ..
A bit of tissue / paper towel over the socket .. push the bolt into it .. it will then stay in place in the socket so that you can lower it into an inaccessible hole .
This job is neither hard nor easy .. it's just fiddly i would say
Replacement is a fiddle.
Mine was only split halfway through. Fixed with black heat shrink electrical ducting which was just big enough in diameter to fit over the pipe from the top. Heat with a heat gun.
Job jobbed. Been like that for 3 years and 12k miles no issues.
I'm sure some will poo poo, but working fine and a quick fix until you want to do it properly...
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