C4S: When does an 'Accident Discount' make sense?

Hi everyone, I�m looking for some realistic perspective on a Seal Grey 2004 C4S Cabriolet (6-speed manual) that I�ve been thinking about purchasing. It has 85k miles and a clean title, but the history makes it a very heavy "story" car. I�m trying to gauge a fair price before I commit to a PPI. The History: The carfax shows 5 insurance claims totaling approximately $32,000. Highlights include: 2004: ~$11,300 hit (Rear) 2005: ~$7,400 hit (Left rear) 2008-2020: 3 additional claims totaling ~$13,300 (Hood and Rear corner) Basically 3 rear collisions... Cosmetically, the car is in great shape and shows very well. It did receive a respray a few years ago on several body panels, and there is currently a hairline rust crack starting in the door jamb near the sills. It�s also modified with 991-style headlights and Fuchs-style wheels. The Condition: The car has mostly sat unused for the last 3.5 years and the seller has had it listed for 6 months now. Maintenance history shows spark plugs, ignition coils, front brakes, and fluids were done 3 years ago, but there is no documentation for the IMS, RMS, or AOS. Current Issues: Active Oil Leak: Oil leak currently present. Clutch: Extremely high bite point (bites at 95% foot release); assuming it needs immediate replacement. Tires: Needs a full set immediately due to age. Corrosion: Hairline rust in the driver door jamb (see photo) I�m planning on a full PPI with a bore scope and DME report, but given the $32,000 claim history and the looming mechanical bill (Clutch/IMS/RMS/AOS), what is a realistic discount for a C4S Cab in this state compared to a clean example? I�m looking for a driver deal, but I don�t want to get caught paying close to the price of a clean car after all the repairs are tallied up. If the math doesn't leave a significant gap between this and a well-sorted, no-accident example, I'd rather just wait for a clean one. Appreciate any insight you can provide!

Just my humble opinion, but, in addition to the accident history, there appears to be a lot of deferred maintenance on that one ($$$$). Plus, I would have a Porsche specialist inspect the entire car for residual, hidden accident damage. For me, unless I got that car cheap, REALLY cheap, I'd walk away. And even if I could get it really cheap, pending some inspection results, I may still walk away. It's a crap shoot. For pricing I would look at what clean, accident free C4S Cab's are going for, with around the same mileage and maintenance history, probably around $30K in todays market (I'll assume this car doesn't come with paperwork, another minus) and then start deducting for the maintenance you're going to need to do, the diminished value of an "accident car" and all the unknowns stemming from said accident(s). Good luck.

That car is one big red flag.... Pretty, fluffed up car with LED's, a lip, flashy wheels, all the decals and a rusting stress crack or very poor repair seam on the (structural) rocker? Run, seriously, run.

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NO! Run Away!

For me personally, to even consider spending the money on a PPI, that car would have to be in the 15 to 20k price range. Then based on the PPI findings i would expect the price to drop 5 to 10k more due to the amount of repairs and maintenance needed. The current owner looks like they focused on the exterior only and the real cost of 996 ownership ends up being on what is underneath the paint. Don't fall for the pretty superficial stuff and be blinded to all the structural (rust) and mechanical issues (from sitting and deferred maintenance) this car already has.

Sat for 3 years. Has an active oil leak. Clutch is gone. Rust on the door sill. Looking at the door sill, the back off the scuff plate is chewed up which means to me that it had a lot of people getting out of the back of the car. Was this a clown car? The door gasket has some weird wear on it, like it sat in water for a long time. Why ask for trouble?

It would have to be a MASSIVE discount for me to consider this car. Especially with that door sill rust/crack. That could be a huge fix depending what is going on there exactly.

If it has a brand new water pump but nothing else seems to be dne tis a huge DO NOT BUY sign, likely been overheated.. (Been there done that, $28K later got engine back after the OS and some seals failed and resulted in 2 cracked cylinders.