Alarm Module Wiring

Afternoon Folks, Today I happened to have the passenger seat out and whilst doing so had a look at the alarm module and noticed the wiring has clearly been bodged as the pictures show below, That's a thick red wire badly tapped into (I'm guessing a live) and 2 wires (grey and grey/black tracer) that look to have been removed from the wiring connector and taped up. There's also a small white wire and a small brown wire that join to a thick black wire in the heat shrink I think this may be factory but I'll hopefully confirm later. the 3 bodged in wires go to the below unit I've id'd it as an alarm tilt sensor module, my cars an early '98 and these were normally mounted by the battery and prone to failure so I'm guessing someones badly relocated a later sensor to the later position under the passenger seat? does anyone have a wiring diagram for the alarm module so I can check the wiring colours and see if I'm right before I tidy up the wiring connections. Thanks Chris

I think ive answered your posts in the wrong order ! Now i know what year you have then download the diagram from here and also the seat plug i posted is from a later car so here will be the correct one . http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=83491 Reguards the interior sensor you are correct , it was moved to there as a retro fit due to the corrosion it got when placed next to the battery.

didn't know we had wiring diagrams on the forum, thanks for the link demort, not sure if my tilt sensor is working as with the alarm set I can shake it about all over the place and it doesn't set the alarm off.

It may well have been coded off .. youll need a tester to confirm that though .

Alarm and Tilt Sensor Wiring Just reviving this old post as I also need to rewire my Tilt Sensor as the UK elements have rotted through the connector and the wires have largely come loose / snapped off As far as I can tell from the wiring diagrams here the wiring is as follows Tilt Sensor 1 - GR / BK (Grey / Black) - External Shift Contact 2 - RE / BR (Red / Brown) - Central Locking Button (pin 4) & Alarm Siren (pin 1) 3 - Not Connected 4 - Not Connected 5 - GR (Grey) - External Electronic 6 - Not Connected and from the photo below of existing wires on the plug, looking at the back of the plug with the 2 notches at the top and the 3 notches at the bottom, the order of the pins is 1 2 3 4 5 6 G R - - - -G - R E - - - - R - / / - - - - - - B B - - - - - - K R - - - - - - /--\/-------\/--\ | O O O O O O | \/------\/------\/ 1 2 3 4 5 6 Can anyone confirm if my thinkings are correct and what connectors they used to replace the existing rotten ones? I'm thinking of using crimp terminals but a proper plug would probably be better Also my understanding from the wiring diagram is that two wires connect to pin 2 and both of these are crimped on one pin and both are RE / BR (Red / Brown) [+12V at a guess looking as it comes from the other side of the battery for the alarm] Thanks![/img]

Re: Alarm and Tilt Sensor Wiring Wiring diagram excerpt and plug shots

The wiring on this sensor is year specific , you seem to have a 2002 or earlier .. 2003 and its different from what i can see . From your plug image it looks like the earlier type so pins A1,A2 and A5 are used .. In this case you would want .. Grey/Black - Pin A1 Red/Brown X2 - Pin A2 Grey - Pin A5 Your difficulty is going to be sourcing the pins .. an OPC can't help .. its just part of the wiring loom as far as they are concerned . The pins on the tilt sensor will also be corroded . many years ago Porsche came up with a mod for this .. this is a common issue .. there is a new sensor that fits under the passenger seat .. wiring is joined to the alarm CU in the same place . These days most people just remove the tilt sensor and bin it .. it needs to be coded off as its possible to get false alarm triggers if disconnected but still coded as active . The purpose of this sensor .. If someone crashes into your car it will trigger the alarm .. If someone tries to lift your locked car onto a flat bed it will trigger the alarm .. That's about it .. there is a seperate interior monitoring sensor that will trigger the alarm should someone break a window . Is it actually needed ?

Thanks for the detailed reply and good to confirm my wiring and thanks for the additional thoughts Yes I found that article on my travels around this topic and is definitely one possible solution http://shorturl.at/aDEU6 I take it that can only be done with the Porsche PIWIS system so I'd need to take it to an OPC or an indy with one of those to achieve this? Probably not! Just trying to find the simplest solution to fixing my unhappy alarm problem I'm guessing I can test the tilt sensor with the continuity setting of a multimeter before I install if (if I install it) back in the car?

I think i need the full story here Is the alarm randomly triggering and normally at about 3AM ? Assuming that's the issue here then with a tester .. Piwis , Autologic and im unsure what others , we can see the issues when the car was locked last 10 times and the reasons the car alarm was triggered , again the last 10 times . Ie .. No1 interior monitoring sensor .. reset with fob No 2 interior monitoring sensor .. reset with fob No 3 front bonnet catch .. reset with fob No 4 interior monitoring sensor .. reset with fob That's the sort of list and the probable cause would be something moving around in the car or the interior monitoring sensor .. Pretty easy to diagnose ... we can also see the actual values for every alarm monitored lock from cubby hole to door lock secured right side .. Anyways back to your question .. yes you need the above testers .. possibly Durametric as it does some coding but an Indy would be best .. If only to look at the event history and the values whilst also coding off the tilt sensor if your not refitting . If removed then like the siren if not coded off you can get random alarm triggers . You can test the wiring to the tilt sensor but i don't know the values of the sensor itself in ohms .. Logically its going to be either open or short circuit depending on the angle but i don't know .

[Full Story ] So my car passenger door gets lightly swiped by one of my neighbours in our underground car park while they were parking, so the car went in to the bodyshop to have it straightened, resprayed and then blended with the sides of the car around the door When I picked the car up I noticed that after about 30 seconds of alarming the car, the horn would beep twice [which I have seen before when I was charging the battery or similar with the bonnet slightly open] So I checked all of the obvious places that the sensors are such as both doors, the bonnet, the engine cover but still the horn kept triggering after 30 seconds So... I took the car back to the body shop and explained that I was 99% sure that it had never done this before, but that this was the behaviour when I got it back and I wondered if it was to do with one of the door sensors not being fitted correctly when the door was put back together So they kept the car for another two weeks and took the door apart again, but still couldn't find a way to stop the horn triggering after 30 seconds of the alarm being armed So they roped in a local Porsche Indy to help with the problem, and the Indy obviously checked the sensor locations [who doesn't have any diagnostic tools], and then found the tilt sensor which was unplugged already and had the wires perished as per photos So... they called me to collect the car and explained that it was the tilt sensor, and I was going mad as I probably had never just noticed it doing this (in the 3 years of owning the car!) and it definitely wasn't the door - so home the car came Therefore my logic was to wire the tilt sensor back up to remove that part of the equation and to see if it would fix the issue, but as you say that would still leave me rather blind as to what _actually_ was causing the alarm panic if it didn't or if the unit was faulty It also looks like the tilt sensor was unplugged a long time ago so guessing that this has already been wired out of the alarm checking circuit, but no solid proof at this point to substantiate that My thoughts are from here are to get hold of a Durametric as you suggest, or borrow one, and then at least I can see _what_ is causing the alarm panic and thus where to focus our attention to get it fixed Does that sound about logically correct?

Ok .. yeah that makes sense and thanks for the explanation .. trust me fault finding is pretty hard when sat at home in front of a computer .. its actually pretty hard at times with the car in front of me to be fair !! Bodyshops .. well they remove and refit .. they can leave something unplugged but that would show up on an actual values check or fault code . A double beep indicates the alarm has been locked with a fault .. ie the drivers door lock barrel is sending a signal to say its open all the time .. that sort of thing . I'm unsure the self test on a tilt sensor but logically there would be one and its failing as its unplugged . For me .. i would code the tilt sensor off .. lock the car and see if that stopped the issue .. if not then fault codes and actual values check . Durametric is one of the better testers but its raw .. it just dumps what it can see onto the laptop .. if you can see actual values with this then have a look and photo what you can and email me or post here ... i Think it can but im unsure . The downside with any tester .. i use rather expensive ones which are either porsche or similar .. aftermarket ones tend to not see what i can .. Durametric is just about the best i've seen that comes close to what i use so if you can get that then i feel its certainly worthwhile going forward .. Give me a code or a working tester / actual values and i can help far more than just say .. might be this !

So I spoke to the Indy that worked with the body shop on the alarm problem with my car, and he said that: a. The double beep was definitely normally a door, as a single beep is for the bonnet, cubby hole and engine lid b. They swapped the door lock mechanism with a new one and the problem still didn't go away c. The Durametric that he had indicated that the error was passenger door d. However they went hunting for other problems as he had a false positive with the Durametric and a problematic Tilt Sensor before, so hence when they found the tilt sensor disconnected that they got to the assumption that it was this His recommendation was to get it diagnosed with a PIWIS Tester as this could see the tilt sensor last time when he had a boxer with a tilt sensor problem I do agree, so am going to book it in with Brookspeed as he says they have one, but it does just sound rather too much of a coincidence that the body shop resprayed the passenger door, the Durametric tester says Passenger Door and the Tilt Sensor is already disconnected, which feels to me like this has already been coded out :-/ Hmm...

Ok .. so .. descriptions first A single beep means the car when locked has seen a contact open .. glove box , center cubby lid , radio contact as its had an aftermarket head unit fitted etc etc .. A double beep indicates there is a fault in the central locking system OR the alarm system hence a disconnected tilt sensor would fall into that category . That's from Porsche supplied information . You have a disconnected tilt sensor .. if not coded off it WILL give random alarm triggers .. i know this but i won't bore you with the story ! Durametric said it was a fault with the passengers door lock .. it wasn't investigated from what i can see .. it might well be be faulty ... bit of a coincidence here ! In the early days we had issues with LHD conflicts .. it would report the passengers side but actually meant the drivers side .. this was corrected on our testers at least and i would have thought durametric by now ... this might be their thoughts here but you would still investigate it . Piwis .. i cant say i remember seeing a value for tilt sensor .. might be one but it's not something i remember or have ever used .. What i can say is there is a log of the last 10 alarm triggers and it will say either tilt sensor or passengers door lock ... its accessed with a tester . For the lock it can be seen as a value when locked .. ie locked .. or lock and secured .. easy enough to look at both front door lock values at the same time to see if one is not the same as the other . Anyways the car is booked in to be investigated so i'm not really needed now .. but .. anything more than 1 hrs diag time i would consider an insult unless there is a very strange wiring fault !

deMort - your advice is very much needed and very much appreciated :thumb: and the car's not booked in yet as I decided to do some initial investigations myself So I rewired the tilt sensor using crimp plugs and reconnected the alarm, but still the same problem of the double beep on alarm activation I did a basic check on the door handle sensors and both passenger and driver's doors correctly drop the window on activation of the handle, both from outside and inside, so I'm assuming here that the micro switches in the door handle assemblies are fine on both sides Also both doors lock correctly on alarm activation and both unlock correctly on alarm deactivation Out of interest do you know if you can you see the last 10 alarm fault list using the Durametric system? The Indy with the Durametric is much closer to be travel wise than the garage with the PIWIS so if it does I might just pop up there next week and see what that list says and then we are not black-boxing so much

I suspect that whilst both doors lock one might not be going into secure lock .. just a guess though as a tester is required to prove it . I'm unsure if the durametric can see the alarm event memory .. if any tester can then it would be this one though . Obviously piwis can . If it can see the actual values though which i think it can then you look at both door locks then lock the car .. they should both goto secured lock . Just to point out .. if you lock the car with the central locking button then you have lock mode .. if you lock with the fob then you have lock secured .. Double lock i think some other manufacturers call it .