I've been having some trouble with unstable RPM during the first minute or so after I start my '08
Boxster S
. I figured it might be a dirty
MAF sensor
. I wanted to clean it, but I cannot get the friggin' anti-tamper Torx screws off the sensor housing. I have the right bit, but it seems like the screws are stripped and I can't get any purchase on the screw head without the bit slipping out. Does anyone have a trick to get these things out?
Are you sure the bit you have has a hole in the center ?
Yeah, I tried two separate antitamper T20 bits just in case there was something wrong with the first one. I have a full set of antitamper Torx bits and nothing worked.
If you can't get them out, you can try to use a
Dremel
with cut-off disc to file a slot in the screw head and then you can just use a minus screwdriver (*) on it. I'd only do that as a last resort, but it should work fine.
(*)
+ screwdriver
- screwdriver
Get a screw extractor set...
Craftsman 10-Piece Screw Extractor Sets 966196 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at PowerSports Place
I was able to remove the OEM screws using a combination of already offered approaches; i.e. small screwdriver, pin-punch, side cutters, pliers, etc.
Then I replaced the tamper-proofs with #10 x 1 inch hex washer-head zinc-plated screws from Lowes; package of 6 screws. These replacements were slightly longer, so I shortened using my bench grinder until they matched the length of the originals.
exact thread I needed.
I've got the anti-tamper torx set. NO GOOD.
T20.
I'm going to cut a flat blade screwdriver slot in them.
What genius thought the anti-tamper torx screws were necessary? I'd like to kick his @$$.
Pelican Parts says this:
You need a T20 tamper proof Torx bit (inset upper left and lower left) to remove the mass air flow sensor from its home in the intake pipe (yellow arrow). It's typically easier to pull the sensor out of the intake tube first, and then disconnect the electrical harness. Be sure not to touch any of the sensor elements that are exposed (red arrow). Clean the entire housing area prior to installing your new sensor.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...om/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/images_small/Pic2.jpg
T20 is a regular Torx bit. You need a TT20. This is the anti-tamper Torx bit that has a hole in the end for the pin in the screw.
Yeah. I bought a set with the holes in the end. I still could not gain purchase on the screw heads. I dont see how, but i read somewhere that even the tamper proof bits will only fit 1 way. I just dont get it. I tried and tried, but couldnt get the bit to grip. Angle didnt help. Anyway, I'm going to dremmel a flathead slot and be done ith it.
Hey, at least you've got screws. Turns-out the 9A1 MAF is one molded piece.
Last week I went out and bought a set of
DeWalt
security torx bits and a can of
MAF cleaner
. I was getting a check-engine light and Durametric reports a B1610 code. "Air Mass HFM ahead of throttle valve - implausible. No Signal/communication". I cleared the code once and it came back a few days later. I thought I'd try cleaning the MAF.
On a
Cayman
(at least on Gen 2) the MAF is partially hidden since it is tucked under the bodywork at the rear of the opening. I couldn't even get a good, safe grip to remove the wire harness and wasn't confident it was unlatched. I certainly couldn't see any screws, but I thought they might be hidden by the connector. But it didn't look like any of the photos I'd seen.
So I ended up loosening the hose clamps and removing the flexible intake hose, then pulling the MAF assembly out. Then I figured out the latch and (to avoid tugging on the wires) used a small flat-blade screw driver to pry the harness connector off. This is what it looks like.
View attachment 123393
View attachment 123409
View attachment 123401
So I stuck the tip of the cleaner as close as possible to the sensor enclosure and drenched it 10-12 times. As with any compressed liquefied substance, it gets very cold when expanded. I quickly noticed water condensation, so I took it inside the house and blew it with a hair dryer.
After reassembly I've driven it for 4 days and haven't had another CEL. Hope it works cause next step would probably be replacement. I see Pelican has a Bosch one for $226, which is lots better than the Porsche labelled one ($480).
Just break out the center tamper proof? Who cares if its been tampered the warranty is out?
Check out the dates on the post. This discussion is from 4 years ago so I doubt he still needs help with this
