Has anyone retrofitted an external oil cooler to a 2006 3.6l Carrera? I sometimes find myself stuck in stop and go traffic and it freaks me out seeing the oil temp gauge climb towards 250 when I know that the gauge is not truly accurate and the temp is really a bit higher. I am going to be retrofitting the 3rd radiator and wonder if that's gonna be enough to keep the engine cooler? Thanks in advance for your help and advice!
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To start, I would use the low-temperature thermostat. That should solve your problem. Check out the info in my water pump replacement article:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/34-WATER-Water_Pump_and_Thermostat_Replacement/34-WATER-Water_Pump_and_Thermostat_Replacement.htm
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/34-WATER-Water_Pump_and_Thermostat_Replacement/34-WATER-Water_Pump_and_Thermostat_Replacement.htm
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- Wayne
I think you meant coolant temperature instead of oil temp correct? Unless your playing with the display hack and have the data from oil temp sensor displaying?
Changing the thermostat generally doesn't do much to control ambient temperatures once the car is up to operating range. Unless the internal diameter of the thermostat is larger then stock to promote a lot more flow you won't notice cooler running after 15 minutes anyway. In fact faster flow can actually cause issues as the coolant is flowing through the engine and back to the rads quicker (less restriction) with the coolant not remaining in the rad to cool off long enough.
One area that is overlooked quite often is the overflow bottle cap. It's hard to detect if it is functioning properly until it really fails and you see coolant dripping out of it. When they fail it is sometimes so gradual that you don't notice it right away but it is allowing a pressure leak and this alters the boiling point of the coolant. It doesn't take a but a few psi lower then required to affect the cooling and stop and go traffic is where you will see it first as you don't have the airflow through the rad's to help offset a temperature rise. As soon as you start moving and get away from other vehicles you notice the temps drop right? So your coolant system is on the edge here and *something* has changed its state.
Do you hear the fans change speeds (two speeds) when the heat rises (over 225F I think) as your stopped? Perhaps you have a faulty fan or temperature sensor?
Verify the coolant temperature independently - the thermal scanners are under $50 at auto parts stores - or you can do the temp hack for your climate control unit depending on the year of your 996.
Water pump issue? Those plastic blades break off causing other issues down steam that we don't want to think about but these suckers are a wear item and not a lifetime part. Just saying.
I would also check to see if the rad surface is clean as well. If the cap *was* leaking, make sure you burp the system as any air in there will again raise the boiling point artificially.
But... always do the cheap / easy things first (the cap is$20-$30) before going to the expense of the 3rd rad or other non stock changes or throwing parts at the car. Make sure you get the right cap: Latest part update for coolant cap frpm Porsche is: 996.106.447.04
In addition to cleaning the radiators as suggested also make sure there's enough coolant. If you top it up, check it a few times since the level changes.
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Quotes source post: 8226122
Wayne - You usually provide excellent advice. In this case, though, would you please explain how a lower temp thermostat, e.g. 160F, would provide cooler temps than the standard temp thermostat, e.g. 187F, once the coolant temp is above the fully open standard thermostat, e.g.190F? It seems to me that cooling system thermal capacity is the limit, not a throttling by the thermostat.
BTW, I do run the 160F thermostat and don't see any difference in normal operating temps in hot Florida weather.
Quotes source post: 8685073
The thermostat set the minimum temperature the vehicle will run at in a stead state, not unlike how the thermostat in a house sets its minimum temp. So in traffic, the car would start from a lower temp, taking a bit longer to get hot, and then would cool back down to the lower steady state temp once air flow returned to the radiators. So the stat definitely has a throttling effect.
Also check that your electric fans are working. Start the car, turn on your A/C and check each corner to listen for the fan running. Often, one will fail which affects cooling.
You may need to remove the bumper cover and clean between the condenser and the rad. You'd be surprised at how much junk gets between the two and further robs cooling capacity.
I had some water temp problems in 90 degree plus stop and go traffic. When I returned home I checked the radiator fans and found that the right side fan was non-opt. I would stick my hand into the left side radiator to be sure it was working, but didn't do the same for the right side. Live and learn...
The Porsche 3rd radiator is for the Tiptronic transmission cars, it's an oil radiator... Also it mounts flat against the trunk bulkhead so there's no chance to pass air through it. I had a custom water radiator made that mounted to the same attachment points. But the top of the radiator was tilted forward for better air flow.
If anyone needs used 996 radiators for a C4S, I have them. name your price...
This pix is before I changed the top mounting brackets. I now have a GT2 bumper
that vents the 3rd radiator through the top of the bumper.
