New sways, CEL, Snowflake rally...

So last week, I installed some new H&R adjustable sway bars (3 hole) with Torque Solutions adjustable drop links. I've got a C4 so it had the M030 sways on it - I just felt that it could be a little flatter while cornering. I put the drop links in the center holes on both bars and it sure does corner flat now. It's also a good bit stiffer over bumps - not teeth jarring stiff but certainly a noticeable difference. I got to drive it about 140 miles yesterday, and while it wasn't what I would call "high performance driving", there were a few sections of nice winding roads where I was able to air it out a little bit (50 - 60 mph through the twisties) - it felt super solid, planted and flat. While I was installing the rear bar, I noticed a little puddle (about 2" round) of coolant under the oil pump area of the engine. Shining a light straight up I noticed a very slow weeping drip from the upper hose (I believe the return from the radiators) After pulling the airbox for access to the hose I tightened the clamp which stopped the leak. The hose was soft and a little bloated though - knowing I had the rally coming up, I ordered a new hose (I didn't want to get towed home...). I put the hose on Thursday night, and though everything went smoothly, about a gallon of coolant gushed out and made a bit of a mess (even though I had a bucket under the car, there are so many brackets and exhaust pipes etc. that it didn't all go in the bucket). I refilled the expansion tank with Porsche coolant (I bought 2 gallons which makes 4 when mixed with distilled water - I wanted to be sure I had enough, 'cause I didn't know how much I'd lose) and took her for a quick test drive of about 8 miles. Everything felt great, no warning lights, ran perfect etc. so I brought it back to the garage and locked it up 'til Saturday afternoon. I had to leave for the rally early Sunday morning so I decided to get the car Saturday afternoon and park it at my house overnight to save time in the morning. On the way home I get a CEL... Oh no... should I do the rally? Is my engine about to explode? Is it the dreaded IMSB? Chain tensioners? Ok, relax...I figured I'd keep an eye on it and just drive it - Maybe the CEL was triggered by temporarily having air in the cooling system? Maybe one of the coils got wet from the coolant spilling on it and caused a misfire? My code reader was back at the garage and I didn't have time to go back up there and get it before I left for the rally. I've driven other cars literally for months with CEL's so I just bit the bullet. The happy news is, that about 60 miles into the rally (and a couple key on/off cycles) the CEL went out! The rally didn't go well at all, as my navigator (his first time out) thought he had everything figured out after the first 2 sections, and everything went to hell on the third section We didn't do very well, but my sides hurt from laughing so hard ! Now, the car is back in the shop for a little more winter work. A couple wheels need refurbishment for some curb rash, and I'm going to install a center radiator (that extra coolant will come in handy)...

did you ever pull the stored code and see what triggered it?

Not yet. I just dropped the car at the garage last night and haven't been back there yet. I will do it in the next few days and let you know.

Probably just the gas cap was loose or the cat converter efficiency is getting borderline.

I don't think the gas cap could have been the issue as I had driven over 150 mi. since my last fillup with no CEL. I think it was definitely related to the coolant via either cooling system or misfire on a coil... We'll see - I'm just really happy it went away by itself ** Never had a problem with CAT's - I hope it's not related to them

The airlift II tool is a great tool for pulling a vacuum on the cooling system when filling it. I used it recently on my Cayenne but not yet on the 996. The "economy" plastic version works great and is only $80. Highly recommended if you already have an air compressor.

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^yeah^ I do have a compressor, and I plan on getting a airlift ll as I have a center radiator kit just waiting to be installed 👍

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^Yes^! Finally... After finishing the install of a center radiator, I decided to hook up my generic code reader and I got 1 instance of a stored P1341...nothing els. I understand that this is a "check engine soon". As I stated in my first post, The check engine light went away, and hasn't come back since. I'm going to try to button the car back up (front bumper ect.) and take it out for a ride. I'll probably erase the code prior to driving, and then hope it stays away...

Im pretty sure that P1341 is a miss fire engine code. Hopefully it was a one off occurrence.

If the light popped once, it will do it again. Cars rarely fix themselves.

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If you read my original post, I think it was related to changing out the upper coolant hose that comes off the oil pump housing - some coolant dumped on the right rear side of the engine (and probably the coil[s])... once it dried out the CEL went away but left the 1341 code. If this turns out to be the case, the car will have indeed "fixed itself"... because I did nothing but drive it. I will be checking my coil packs to see if there are any cracks that might have helped lead to a misfire though... all in due time. I am planning to do the spark plug tubes, as I think I may have a leaky one on the other side of the motor - I figure this will be the time when I check all the coils and plugs, but nothing up to this CEL has given me any reason to think the car isn't running great.

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P1341: Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit Potential causes: – Short to ground – Actuator faulty – Open circuit in triggering wire – Open circuit in B+ supply You can clear the code and if the code doesn't come back that's a win. My WAG is it will come back and you are looking at a new VarioCam solenoid and possibly even an actuator. This assumes the problem is not something you did or disturbed during the coolant hose replacement and then might be reversible. I'm thinking the solenoid connecctor got dislodged or something. If the CEL comes back and if it is for the same reason if you continue to drive the car the engine may develop misifres as the DME adjusts fueling to get the expected O2 sensor readings from the affected bank but of course will go to far in the fuel adjustment as the lack of proper cam timing is not going to be corrected by fueling adjustment.

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If you dump coolant on a coil and it develops a missfire then the coil is in the process of failing. The ignition coils should be weatherproof otherwise they will cause a missfire when driven in the rain. The car didn't fix itself but rather gave you a warning that something is failing. Don't ignore it.

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^Yup, I get it^... There's also an electrical connection directly below the hose connection that was leaking (coolant temp?) I don't know if that could be related as well, but it was directly in the path of the leak, and ultimately was pretty well inundated when I removed the hose.