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YOUR RESEARCHHelp Please. Broken tube, now leaking
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Suggestion
Turned out good for less than $10, even bought the nice pinch-on clamps from Home Depot for that nice clean pro-look.
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Suggestion
Part #13 is the upper spring type clamp that lets you disconnect the hose if you need to remove the left intake manifold (so better not use the Oetiker ones here)
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Suggestion
If you really prefer this kind of worm clamps, I highly recommend Norma clamps, which are OE and have a smooth inside surface that won't damage the hoses.
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Suggestion
I converted mine utilizing a brass fitting with a home hack utilizing the Coilhose Pneumatics BS06-DL 3/8" Hose Repair Kit.
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Suggestion
Part #13 is the upper spring type clamp that lets you disconnect the hose if you need to remove the left intake manifold (so better not use the Oetiker ones here)
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Suggestion
If you really prefer this kind of worm clamps, I highly recommend Norma clamps, which are OE and have a smooth inside surface that won't damage the hoses.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm not 100% sure what it's feeding, but it's leaking green fluid that I would normally say looks like antifreeze, except I'm running the Porsche pink stuff, so I'm not sure what it is.
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Hey All,
I was replacing my drive belt as it had been over 2 years since I knew it was changed. Everything was going fine, until I went to put the new belt back in. As I was moving the oil filler tube slightly out of the way, I broke the tube/connector that is directly behind the upper idler pulley. I'm not 100% sure what it's feeding, but it's leaking green fluid that I would normally say looks like antifreeze, except I'm running the Porsche pink stuff, so I'm not sure what it is. Maybe it's power steering fluid as it's near the power steering pump. I'll admit it was getting late and I didn't follow path of tubing to wherever it was ultimately going.
In any event, I didn't hit the connector hard, but I'm guessing whatever plastic was there was brittle and it didn't take much to break it.
Can someone help me I.D. the part I'm looking at, and what my options may be (outside of flatbedding to mechanic, which I may wind up having to do depending on how bad I screwed this up.).
Reference photo from Pelican parts. Connector I broke is directly to the right of the upper idler pulley, and connects tube coming over and down above oil filler tube.
Broken connector circled in red.
You broke the coolant fitting, very common thing to break when working around the belt/TB area. Go to Home Depot, get a brass connector to replace the plastic one you broke. Zip tie back together. Remove any residual plastic pieces stuck in the hoses.
For reference, the fitting you need to get at HD.
Thanks Kalish. I thought I remembered previously seeing there being a connector that was known to break and the fix was using a brass fitting. Not sure why I didn't connect the dots that this was that particular fitting.
I appreciate the quick reply. Glad to know it's a relatively easy fix. Looks like I'll be going to Home Depot tomorrow morning.
Thanks again.
I agree with "dporto" that the Rauch & Spiegle Improved Coolant Hose Connector is very nice and the $38.39 is not too bad.
https://www.ebsracing.com/product/co...127284-c722102
I converted mine utilizing a brass fitting with a home hack utilizing the Coilhose Pneumatics BS06-DL 3/8" Hose Repair Kit. Turned out good for less than $10, even bought the nice pinch-on clamps from Home Depot for that nice clean pro-look. Will add picture later.
Warehouse33 has it slightly cheaper with the Rennlist discount. They also have the OEM plastic part for $6. Admittedly, the aluminum one is far more robust, but for $6 it might be worth keeping an extra plastic one in the tool kit.
FWIW, I just ordered the beefed-up one.
http://www.warehouse33auto.com/parts...er/99610622652
That does raise a good point though. What was leaking out was definitely greenish/yellow, but what is in the coolant reservoir is definitely more pinkish. When I bought the car 2 years ago (almost to the day), I had the IMS, RMS, clutch, coolant reservoir, etc done all at once. I'm 91% sure they said they flushed relevant fluids, but is there a chance they didn't completely flush and some green was left in there? If so, wouldn't all of that ultimately have mixed with the pink stuff over time?
I honestly don't remember seeing what was in when I bought it. It's been pink since I had the coolant reservoir done.
I'm overdue for a water pump replacement as I have no record of it ever being done. Still undecided whether I want to take it on myself or not. Usually, if there's a Youtube video of someone doing it before me, or good instructions, I'll give it a try. If I do it, I'm assuming that's my opportunity to flush everything out and start from scratch.
That's basically what I wound up doing. Seems to work pretty well. May still go back and get the part mentioned earlier in the thread as a more permanent fix.
Just watch out those clamps cutting and digging into the hoses. If you really prefer this kind of worm clamps, I highly recommend Norma clamps, which are OE and have a smooth inside surface that won't damage the hoses.
Thanks Ahsai. Any specific place I can get the Norma clamps you mention? I agree, the worm clamps I'm using do look like they are digging in quite a bit.
I've collected a few over the years working on German cars. These should be good for your hoses
http://m.ebay.com/itm/SILICONE-HOSE-CLAMP-8-16MM-NORMA-TORRO-GEMI-TYPE-10PK-/151916069161?nav=SEARCH
Those are both motorcycle style hose clamps and are not easy to get locally unless you go to a bike shop but they usually charge a premium. Better to use fuel injection hose clamps, any automotive parts store will have them and they are cheap. Here is an example (this is what I used):
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...15v/89016085-P
I have a strong preference on the OE clamps (and OE look) because they are very low profile and have no chance to interfere with the drive belt. You can only get the upper one from the 997 parts diagrams.
Part #13 is the upper spring type clamp that lets you disconnect the hose if you need to remove the left intake manifold (so better not use the Oetiker ones here)
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=104-10
Part #19 here is the lower clamp, Oetiker type. Crimp it and forget it type. No need to touch this clamp even if you're doing an engine rebuild.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=104-10
I agree with Ahsai -reluctantly and belatedly.
What changed my mind was getting a Mayhew Hose Clamp plier set that operates the OEM spring clamps in almost any location/position. The frustrating thing about the OEM clamps is trying to use channel locks and slip-joint pliers.
Amazon
Amazon
I also bought a comprehensive kit of good quality spring hose clamps and used them to replace some incorrect items.
https://www.belmetric.com/constant-t...amps-c-15_559/
I still need to get the large diameter constant tension clamps for the wp area where the P.O. replaced with generic worm drive.53mm & 49mm.Like Mubea SC 47.5 52/12 & SC 53.5 58/12?They are hard to find .
This link may be helpful:
http://hoseclampman.com/product/german-hose-clamps/
