987.2 2.9L sluggish when pulling out of junctions. Is this normal?

Hello all! I'm new to this forum and to Porsche ownership. I've had my 2012 Gen 2 987 2.9L for about 4 months now and I absolutely love it. But there is one thing about it that has been constantly bugging me... When I'm at a standstill at a junction waiting to pull out into traffic, I'll find a gap and put my foot down to pull out into it, but it feels like the traction control is kicking in way too much and I can't pull out of the junction fast. I find myself almost shouting at the car to hurry up and accelerate, but it feels like I'm pulling out of the junction in a Honda Jazz. Once I straighten up, the traction control lets off and it accelerates fast again. With traction control turned off, I can definitely pull out of junctions quicker, but it just feels to me like something isn't quite right when the traction control is turned on. However, having never driven any other Porsche before, I don't know if this is a normal thing or not, so would love to hear others' opinions on how they find it. I know there a loads of things including tyres that can have a big effect on how the traction control works, but I don't want to go fault finding and swapping tyres only to find out that this is normal Cayman behaviour. The car does not have PASM . The tyres are the same ones that came on the car when I bought it - Michelin PS2's on the front and PS4's on the back. Thanks

Current mileage might help to drill down on it. If it has a lot of miles and frankly even if it doesn't, it's definitely due or overdue for coils and plugs and that replacement can transform a lack of acceleration. Or of course it can be totally unrelated and in the drivetrain as you speculate.

Current mileage is 84,000. It's had good service history but would have to look in the book when I'm home to see if its had coils and plugs any time recently. Forgot to mention transmission, its a manual.

What is the condition and type of tires on it? It sounds as if the rear tires are starting to break free on acceleration on a hard start corner - which could be as simple as having summer tires on the car in the winter (not a good idea.. they get hard as marbles in the winter). If that's the case the traction control is doing exactly what it's designed to do and preventing that wheel from sliding. Tread depth also can be an issue, as can tire age - over 5 years old - tires start to harden up. Plus tire pressure - excessive pressure can encourage that behavior.

If it's a pdk car it's adapted to the previous owners driving style. You simply do the reset procedure and then it will adapt to you. If manual the others comments are worth following.

He did mention it's a manual..

I’d be looking at tyres and alignment.

old high performance tires will get hard and do that to the TC, had that issue on mine. Also the 2.7 has a flat spot midway in the rpm range that you can notice in 1st gear the most.

Exact issue on my '08 RS60. This was 2014 approx 57k miles. Took to indy shop, NO CODES. They started chasing ghosts. Plugs and coils, no change. Suggested at that point to wait for a code. Struggled at intersections from a stop for the next two tanks of fuel. I always keep it full, except before DE and SOLO events. If no codes, run that fuel out and refill fresh 93. Costco has Top Tier 93, fyi. No more issues. I then purchased a Durametric cable, check regularly for codes. Hopefully yours is just a "bad fuel" issue like me. Please update. Eyes up, look ahead Enjoy

Check out the reset process here: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-987-today.57344/page-358#post-2138259 No programming tool needed for those instructions (thanks @deilenberger !)

I had this issue and I tracked it down to using a specific gas station. Either something contaminated the tanks, or maybe it would give 87 instead of the 91 I selected. ECU pulled timing.

could it be the clutch or clutch switch? my 2.9 has a really fat torque curve from down low but I do run RON97 or RON100 fuel. after 4 months would a reset make a difference?

Worth checking the clutch switch, for me replacing it didn’t help.

I’m just guessing, but I wouldn’t think the clutch switch would cause this effect. From some vids I’ve viewed, it operates like a light switch. It’s either open, or closed. You can’t crank the car over unless the clutch is depressed. Pushing the clutch pedal completes the circuit, allowing it to crank. If the switch is bad, no start. You can check this by pulling the connector off the switch and bypassing it by making up a jumper. Use a short piece of #14 or #16 wire, 3 to 4 inches in length, and crimp a male terminal each end. Insert each end into the connector you removed, completing the circuit. Keep in mind that now the starter will engage even though the cutch is not depresse, and if the vehicle is in gear it will lurch forward from the force of the starter on the flywheel. Note, this is not my invention or brainstorm, I got the from a YouTube video for troubleshooting a Boxster/Cayman that will not start, and this is suggested to check out before you throw in the towel and take it into the shop for a non-starting car, when it could be something as simple as this malfunctioning clutch switch. If anyone has a different understanding, please correct me if this is not the case.

WTFChuck, I believe you are correct about the clutch switch operation. Mine began to fail ON A RAILROAD CROSSING! RR crossings in rural south Louisiana are, as in my case, so bad my car will scrape if you don't go extremely slow. I mean feather the clutch to get on top of the first hump before the first rail. As the car starts to roll off the hump, quickly engage clutch and ride the brake on the way down to stop from bottoming out. Repeat across remaining humps! I was unable to push my car off the tracks by myself, even though I'm a big guy. I was able to eventually start the car, after several terrifying minutes, thinking help could never get there in time and I'd have to watch my car destroyed. I installed a "jumper" in the same failing unit the next day. That was over 10yrs ago. Only issue now, when I do need to have service (beyond my capabilities) I inform servicemanager. I also tape a note to steering wheel: NO CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH. Take a picture of note as it contains a timestamp. You could also, with permission, record the conversation with svc manager. All this, in case they run it off a lift or crash in the parking lot. I am now suffering the same sluggish get rolling issue again. I'm in the process of running the tank down almost completely empty(should have gone to COSTCO) Then refuel at a different place. As this is not the first time for me, hoping the same procedure will produce the same result. I will update. Eyes up, look ahead.

Good luck with your fuel issue. There is a good vid on YouTube concerning simple things to look for when your Boxster doesn’t start. It addresses quick and simple things to check for before giving up and having it towed to the dealer. I made up one of those short wire jumpers and keep it in my glove box in case of that exact situation.

Here is a link to one of the vids on the clutch switch problem.