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YOUR RESEARCH996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
Leading reported evidence
Check fuse in driver side, all are ok
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked all the fuse in driver side, all are ok.
996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
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Leading evidence: 'Check fuse in driver side, all are ok' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Thankyou everyone for the input, today when I checked all fuses, all were ok .
996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
Check k lines as well
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked the k lines as well, but I forget the voltage now, will update later here
996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
Disconnect from the battery
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Touch the + and - cable terminals together while disconnected from the battery.
996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
Disconnect terminals (both) together
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then using something like a long screwdriver, touch the disconnected terminals (both) together to drain all the voltage from the electrical components.
996 turbo, no start with " failure indicator " warning in cluster
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Outcome without a verified action link
Strange that it worked fine for a few days before doing this.
Hello guys,
I need urgent help of someone who knows 996 well, my 2001 996 battery was replaced few days ago & now when I try to start the car it does not cranks.
As soon as I turn ignition on there is warning in cluster " failure indicator"
The gear position in cluster shows "4th gear" & when I shift the gears, it is not indicated by light in clusterAdditionally the diagnosis "PIWIS " is not connecting to car, it can not read any control unit.
While ignition is on AC blower works fine.
can locks / unlocks fine,central locking is also good.
I checked all the fuse in driver side, all are ok.
Please help guys, as I am struck with this car
Thanks
So the battery was replaced, car worked fine for a couple days, and now it does not?
It might be worth checking to make sure the terminals on the battery are tight. I've had experiences where the accessories will work, but there's not enough of a connection for the car to start. The failure indicator in your case points at multiple modules, so you may need to do more digging on your end.
Just a guess - undo both negative and positive battery terminals. Then using something like a long screwdriver, touch the disconnected terminals (both) together to drain all the voltage from the electrical components. **WARNING - THIS MEANS
DISCONNECT BOTH
POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE LEADS FROM THE BATTERY AND TOUCH THEM TOGETHER** Also, check the negative lead from the battery to chassis. Clean up any corrosion. Be careful doing this, but it will drain all of the voltage from the various electrical components which often have capacitors for providing some residual voltage. Be patient and take your time.
It sounds like an ECM and the dash are not communicating...this could be caused by one or more electronic control modules not getting power, or a faulty/damaged ECM. It may or may not have anything to do with your recent battery replacement, best to start checking for power at your control modules and work your way backwards from there. I recall one member had a similar issue a few years back and in his case the shop found a faulty relay was causing the problem.
LED's usually fail in a grand spectacle, when connected backwards.
Now I would not put it past Porsche to have a polarity detection setup that kills the power from the main power center..
I saw a BMW connected backwards once and it detonated the battery disconnect in the trunk.
The other place to check is the connections on the motor end of the battery cables, loose connection there would not help anything..
The one under the "+" cover for jumpstart should be tight and clean.
I take it nothing else has been done to the car (i.e. tune, modifications, etc.)?
Did you take Joe's advice?
If you haven't, do these steps:
1. D
isconnect
both +/- cables from the battery terminals. Tape the battery terminals to protect against shorts that could damage the car. A simple mistake could be very costly!
2. Let the car sit unconnected for a few hours.
3. Touch the + and - cable terminals together while disconnected from the battery. This will drain any power built up within capacitors.
4. After several hours, reconnect the +/- cables back to the battery terminals.
5. Turn key into first position and let the car power up and conduct an oil level check. What happens? Any fail indicators? report back.
6. If no failure indicators, then attempt to crank the car. Report back.
Good luck!
It's my understanding that if you do a reboot with a hand off by disconnecting the battery and draining the capacitors you need to go through the throttle adaptation process before starting the car. Not that it would be the cause of your problems here but it is part of the recommended recovery adaptation.
Post rebuild, my car had set for months without the battery connected, the first thing the car
does when you turn the key is calibrate the throttle body... If you have the engine bay open you can hear the test happen..
Happens every time you turn on the key.
I know I'm way late to the party, but have you checked to see if the carpet is wet under the drivers seat? There is a control unit under there than can get wet if the front drains are stopped up and will cause the "no start" and can also shut down the whole CAN BUS system....
Also the clutch switch is a common no start culprit, you can jumper it with a blade fuse or even a paper clip...
I just remembered that I got this error when swapping in my new cluster. Turns out that one of the connectors in the back of the dash didn�t connect tightly.
probably not it but may be worth a shot (as in free)
also, jumper the clutch switch to see if that�s a secondary issue.
last thought is to disconnect the two main wiring connectors in the engine bay and inspect.
Thankyou everyone for the input, today when I checked all fuses, all were ok . Then went directly to DME & started checking power & ground, I find out that term 30 were ok.
Terminal 15 was not ok. As during the voltage measurement I find around 3 v there, than went back to ignition fuse it was same 3 v in fuse.
To check where the voltage drop is coming from I removed the fuse than check the voltage & find that from the ignition switch there is 12 volt ,
Reinstalled fuse( while ignition was on ) ..
Everything ok, no warning. I think DME went into sleep mode & reset( unplanned) worked somehow.
I checked the k lines as well, but I forget the voltage now, will update later here
The fault returned today... Now I don't know what is wrong.
when engine starts everything works, but than ac did not worked .( All button works except AC snowflake, blower does not work )
Next day the same problem returned( I had started the car like 15-16 time previous day without issue )
When fuse b8 removed with dme connector & start lock relay & than reinstalled, engine started AC again working.
I do not think it is ignition switch as problem is only no start/ AC blower not working, all other things ok ( wiper, light ) Mechanically removal/ insertion of key is also perfect.
Observation with fuse b8 ( while no crank problem is there )
This is coming from ignition switch ( b8)& it goes to DME, tiptronic & alarm cu. Now in DME wire I found that this ignition voltage from b8 fuse was around 3 V, but at the fuse it was 12 V , when I disconnect the fuse, there is 12 V in one side ...
Is this indication of DME is issue.
but if DME is issue why my cluster light is showing that I am in 4rth gear ... & Why I can not connect PIWIS 3...
Is there a relation in all these or transmission cu is also gone ?
Then why some time only happening. Today I tried so many time but starting well, but no AC blower.
Not to necro this thread, but I am having this same issue when trying to start my 996 turbo after being in the garage for the winter. I had the battery on a tender (old, maybe over charged or something?). Wondering if the passenger window having an issue going up and down (the quarter inch when opening / closing) before I put it away would have caused some issue with the alarm like you mentioned with b8 fuse?
hello, in my case it was done by a good electrician. apart from the warning in cluster sometime my windows won't work, sometime hazard won't work.
he found some wires were shorted under dashboard.
horted.once he solve it, the fault did not return. Because of the short some fuses were also blowing & headlight was also not working sometime.
I dont remember which wires were getting short exactly, but he informed me this much. If you can't find it easy get it checked by an electrician, he can solve it.
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