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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTyre wear, RMS and clutch....
Leading reported evidence
Replace on my gt3 - 52,000 miles
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I'm just about to get the clutch changed on my GT3 - 52,000 miles on the original & it's still fine.
Leading evidence: 'Replace on my gt3 - 52,000 miles' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'alignment being set' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I run quite aggressive negative camber on the rear (-2.25 degrees ATM) and I get completely even tyre wear as long as I have 15 minutes of toe out on the rear.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I am aware that the outsides don't generally wear unless used really hard, tracked etc.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
I used to get very even wear on my C2, and believe that was due to the alignment being set to the factory recommendations.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Check clutch
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is it possible to visually check a clutch then when dismantled and assess it that way?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am rapidly appraoching that servicing time so a reasonable approach will be to share the cost comsumables such as oil which I'd be changing anyway with the servicing.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I run quite aggressive negative camber on the rear (-2.25 degrees ATM) and I get completely even tyre wear as long as I have 15 minutes of toe out on the rear.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
10 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Porsche Club GB: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T222516Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I posted a little while ago in the vain hope I had over filled my engine oil and a breather had let it out.......vain it was. I had a look under my car today and it is the RMS......again. It was done under warranty 7000 miles ago by a very willing indy dealer (911 Sport, Lincs) having bought the car from them, and they have indicated they will sort it for me again. Certainly a way to keep my custom.
I am rapidly appraoching that servicing time so a reasonable approach will be to share the cost comsumables such as oil which I'd be changing anyway with the servicing. I have really been impressed with the service they have given me to date. On a down side whilst I was looking under the car I saw the rear tyres which I thought had lots of life left in them...haven't. The centre of the tyre profile is nearing the wear indicators so a new set of rear boots to throw into the equation. I have been quoted £200 for each tyre fitted, can anyone do better than that? Seems a very good price to me.
If the centre of the tyres are wearing more than the outsides, it would indicate over-inflation. Might be worth checking your gauge.
£200 sounds cheap-ish for 295/30/18's - what make?
Depending on your mileage, it might be worth considering a new clutch, especially if the pedal is getting heavy (first sign of wear). However, you might just want to assess it when they take it off.
Over inflation was my first thought but then I have been on the button with 44 PSI so over inflation should'nt be an issue. I have no reason to suspect geometry and the guy at the tyre fitters reckons wider tyred car do wear in the middle. I am aware that the outsides don't generally wear unless used really hard, tracked etc.
The tyres are Continental Contact Sport N2, limited to anything else really.
What sort of mileage should a clutch achieve. I'm nearly at 28k. Feels fine to me, a little heavier than most other cars but it is engaging alot more power than other cars. I test drove a 997 C4S last week which was marginally lighter but it is not causing me problems. Is it possible to visually check a clutch then when dismantled and assess it that way? I was wondering whether it would make practical sense to do the RMS/clutch and service in one hit?
Given the degree of negative camber on the cars, with the wide wheels, if not driven hard, it is usually the inner edge that wears first. To be fair, on the Continental SportContact2s that I've used on the 17s, 18s and other cars, the middle seems to wear first and I think when new the middle grooves are slightly shallower that the outer ones.
There is no hard and fast rule about clutch life - it all depends on the user. Could be anywhere between 10,000 if you are an animal and 70,000 miles if you drive like Miss Daisy. You can assess the wear on the friction plate when it is out, and they have to strip the clutch to remove the flywheel to get to the RMS. I would see what happens when they do that.
I used to get very even wear on my C2, and believe that was due to the alignment being set to the factory recommendations. The Contis on my Turbo wore very evenly - albeit at a hugely excessive rate!
I'm just about to get the clutch changed on my GT3 - 52,000 miles on the original & it's still fine. I'm only getting it changed because I'm going to a single piece flywheel setup. I'm not an animal, but I have done around 30 trackdays, so I'm not pussying around either. Mechanical sympathy and correct heel & toe technique helps clutch life enormously [
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Geo is the main culprit if you get rear inner shoulder wear, IME. I run quite aggressive negative camber on the rear (-2.25 degrees ATM) and I get completely even tyre wear as long as I have 15 minutes of toe out on the rear. This is a critical setting, along with making sure they are identical side to side. There's a bolt on an eccentric which adjusts the camber on the rear & this can stretch after a number of adjustment cycles. Once it has stretched, it will torque up but not actually grip correctly so allowing the camber to change under load. Changing the camber also changes the toe...
It's definitely worth checking for this but be prepared, the bolts are nearly £30 each!
Bit off topic - but I am new here, and wondered.. How exactly do you spot RMS - where do I need to look? (I tried a search, and so much RMS stuff comes up, I couldn't find it)
No reason for me to suspect I have an issue - But paranoia has set in and it will be nice to know where to look and what to look for for the future.
Thanks in advance - sorry for the partial Hi-jack of the thread.
I had the clutch looked at (they had a feel of the weight of the pedal). Fella said it was a little worn ie getting a little heavier with a reckoning of 50% wear from new but nothing drastic. However fella said whilst the RMS is done it would be worth popping in a new clutch, the cost is in the labour and the work is done during RMS job twinned with a service I can see the logic.
I did the same on my C2 Robbo. RMS was done under warranty and I had the cluch done parts only at the same sort of mileage as yours.
Looks like a definate keeper after this work has been done[
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good luck
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