19 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDies at idle
Leading reported evidence
Clean throttle body and maf sensor
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The check engine light is on and it reads 3 codes (see attached pictures) I have replaced the throttle position sensor and the idle control valve and have cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor.
Leading evidence: 'Clean throttle body and maf sensor' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check hoses you can see' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced all the o2 sensors and the car idles great.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The main issue I am running into is it idles low and eventually dies.
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Suggestion
Before you go throwing money and parts at it, check all the hoses you can see.
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Suggestion
You'll notice they all have you check the wiring harness for damage/continuity issues/etc.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Before I replaced the idle control valve and cleaned the MAF sensor it would run for like 30 seconds to a minute and then die but after it dies almost immediately.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The check engine light is on and it reads 3 codes (see attached pictures) I have replaced the throttle position sensor and the idle control valve and have cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor.
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Before I replaced the idle control valve and cleaned the MAF sensor it would run for like 30 seconds to a minute and then die but after it dies almost immediately.
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19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T105141Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a 1999 Carrera convertible that I have recently purchased. The main issue I am running into is it idles low and eventually dies. At low rpm when given gas it is also jerky and often delayed to rev up. While driving it runs perfectly smooth. The check engine light is on and it reads 3 codes (see attached pictures) I have replaced the throttle position sensor and the idle control valve and have cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. Before I replaced the idle control valve and cleaned the MAF sensor it would run for like 30 seconds to a minute and then die but after it dies almost immediately. After replacing the ide control valve and cleaning the MAF sensor I wiped the codes but had no luck. Any ideas on how to fix this?
I would change the MAF, replace the o2 sensor at bank 2 pre cat. Read this for the idle control valve:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ispreloading=1
Here are the troubleshooting procedures for codes p0102, p0121 (there is no p0123 in the 7.2dme manual) and p0150
You'll notice they all have you check the wiring harness for damage/continuity issues/etc. first. It is possible these three codes are all independent problems but the common theme is wiring. I'd start there and go through the various tests before purchasing any more parts.
Be patient and systematic.
Before you go throwing money and parts at it, check all the hoses you can see. Verify the collar to the airbox is seated correctly. That would cause it to stall. Unmetered air is getting in.
I cleaned my MAF sensor several times. It didn't solve the problem. A new MAF sensor solved my problems. Be careful where you buy a replacement as there are a lot of quality control issues with off brand manufacturers. The MAF sensor is one of the most critical elements for the DME/ECU to control the engine running parameters.
I don't know how proficient you are at electrical/electronics but one common thing I have seen way to many times that screws with the "A" circuit on any three wire Sensor is shorting Vario-Cam Solenoids... They should be ~13 OHms each ......If the OHMs value is much less than the 13 ohm specs it will drag down the "A" circuit and have multiple Sensor codes...
The "A" circuit is probably what is causing the MAF and TP codes...
The 02 Sensor is probably just aged out if around 100k+ miles ..( good idea to just replace 02 sensors )
so I descovered that the plug to the throttle position sensor had a pin that was pushed in so it wasnt getting good connection. After taking apart the plug and fixing it I got it to idle. For the people who said I'm throwing money at problems, yes, I agree. But I bought the car in terrible condition so all of these parts will likely need to be replaced anyways so I like having the peace of mind knowing I have fresh new oem parts that will last a while. After getting it to idle I was feeling all proud of myself because electrical issues are not my strong suit. Then, it was running really rough and the engine light started flashing. It was reading o2 sensor bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 codes p0130 and p0150. And it was also reading misfires in cylinders 4,5, and 6 codes p0305, p0304, p0306, and p0300. Now i have no idea what to do. Anyone smarter than me have ant ideas?
1 Search for airleaks with a smoke tester.
2. Have you changed the spark plugs?
3. Have you changed the ignition coils? If not, move the 3 ignition coils from the left side to the right side and vice versa, and see if the errors move to bank 1-3? (Considering that you are testing on a dry day because we have seen misfires due to water getting into the coils on rainy days).
4. I would change the two o2 sensors as suggested above.
It each step of the above, replace the parts, clear the codes and try again.
If the car was in terrible condition as you say...The coil packs get old and crack, will trigger misfires and the unburnt fuel will trigger the O2 sensor. You are going to have to replace the coil packs anyway. I discovered mine were failing after I washed the car.
yes when I bought the car it diddnt run at all so it's miraculous that I've gotten this far. An plugs and coils is something I've been planning on doing for a but but havnt because I am a broke, busy, college student 😅
No worries. We are all broke. Stop eating for a couple of nights and change the spark plugs. Then test. If it still gives you the errors, swap the ignition coils to see if errors move to the other side.
I can't say this often enough. There are no Porsche 911s that work reliably well for under $50K (used to be $40K but the price of parts has really skyrocketed). What I mean by reliably well, is that you have the confidence to take a 1,000-mile roundtrip. If you buy one for less, plan on spending the difference in parts and labor to get it to that point.
Incredible progress has been made. I replaced all the o2 sensors and the car idles great. I let it idle for a while, drove it around for a bit, then let it idle for a while and 0 engine codes popped up. There is much more to do but this is a great step forward.
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