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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSpark plugs and coil packs
Leading reported evidence
Replace coils n plugs at 36k mi
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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1
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Leading evidence: 'Replace coils n plugs at 36k mi' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check back' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ran a number of errands on the way home and each time the CEL came on so I stopped by O'Reillys.
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I have an 08 987 CS with 80k kms, I'm just wondering if I should replace my
spark plugs
and coil packs or maybe just
spark plugs
. My questions is how do you know if either or both need to be changed? What are the symptoms for bad plugs or coils? I have never replaced them before on this car so the ones in there are the original ones.
I would do both while you are in there. I’d be worried the plugs may be seized if they have never been done. Did my ‘14
981
at 38k for that reason.
Shawn in VA (USA)
I just did this job on my Ford. There were no symptoms whatsoever, 75K miles. Upon completing the job I realized the truck had lost all its lower end torque over time very subtly. It literally feels like the motor was bored out, it's that dramatic. I learned a lesson because Ford said it wasn't due for another 20K and the plugs were well worn. I did the plugs on the
Spyder
at about 13K to get them out of the heads. They were quite new but I will do the
Porsche
at 50K with coils, it's a bit of work to do so might as well do both I didn't because the mileage was so low.
I did this job on my 987 when I first got it (at 50k miles) and I'd say just do both while you're in there. The rear plugs can be a bit of a pain to get to, so once you have the old coils out you'll just be saving yourself future frustration by replacing them now.
Change coils and plugs. You have original coils and the coil housings crack due to heat over time which leads to moisture absorbtion which can and will over time cause misfires and CEL. Improved coils have a more robust housing and require longer mount bolts. Also Double ensure you have a secure coil
plug
connection on install!
07CS 6MT,; built 10/06. 45k mi. Changed coils n plugs at 36k mi. ALL 6 COILS HAD MULTIPLE CRACKS!! Engine ran fine...it was a time thing vs miles on the car...but CEL/misfires was imamate!!
I am the proud owner of a 08' 987
Cayman S
with 70,000 miles.
Received a check engine light yesterday on cylinders 1, 2, 4 and 6. Appears to be ignition coils and spark plus.
What are the recommended replacement parts for these two parts?
Can I continue to drive the car a week or two until I have time to do the replacements?
Congrats on finding this post on plugs and coils - and on joining Planet-9.
Quick answers:
Vendor for parts
- FCPEuro if you're in the US. Lifetime warranty on parts, they don't sell junk (OE or OEM exact replacements), they ship quickly, and usually get the orders correct. fcpeuro.com Have your VIN# handy.
Driving it
- if you have another car - use the other car. How did you determine the issue was on cylinders 1, 2, 4 and 6? That's sort of an odd combination since they are on opposite sides of the engine (flat 6, 1-2-3 on one side 4-5-6 on the other). Reading with a standard OBD-II code reader typically provides somewhat limited information - such as how many misfires have been seen on each cylinder. It is not uncommon though for one cylinder misfiring to trigger other cylinders. I have no idea why - but that's been my experience. Anyway - usually the ECU will turn off cylinders with misfires to keep them from being flooded with unburned fuel and the engine will run quite roughly (if at all). Not good to use it that way.
Meanwhile - welcome to
Planet-9, the Friendly Porsche Forum
that's home to a bunch of smart people!
When you have a chance - please visit
https://www.planet-9.com/forums/new_members/
and introduce yourself and your Cayman. Pics are always welcomed!
Funny about the timing of these responses. I had been planning to do both plugs and coil packs in the very near future as my ‘08
Boxster
has recently turned 50k miles. Just came back from some errands and experienced several ‘hot start’ issues. The car starts promptly when cold, but as of late has not started as quickly when hot. It takes a second or two longer while cranking, and occasionally sputters and does not start, requiring another attempt. Could this be an indication of a need for new plugs and coil packs? Any connection or relation between these recent issues?
Hello Don,
Thank you for the information.
I received a printout from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts listing the codes, and suggesting I examine coils and plugs. Still, the car runs and idles smooth, either at a light or exceeding 100 😎 (love this car) no issues. Without the CEL I would not have known of a misfire.
FCP
provided a parts quote of $281. Cool with that. I would be more inclined to give it a whirl if I had a lift. Thinking without, not sure it’s something I can handle. So I reached out to a
Porsche
dealership and received a quote of $1,630. WHAT!? I’m back to thinking I give it a whirl after all unless someone knows of less expensive options in the D/FW area.
Hello Chuck,
Are you receiving any CEL notices? This just became an issue yesterday morning, from a cold start. No codes previously. I ran a number of errands on the way home and each time the CEL came on so I stopped by O'Reillys. Seeing codes for multiple cylinders all at once was a curiosity.
At a quote of $1630, you could buy a hydraulic jack and a set of jackstands and pocket the hefty difference. Just make sure to buy a low profile jack, most standard ones won’t fit under the Cayman/Boxster. I think got this at Harbor Freight.
And others suggest a swivel spark plug socket for ease.
Found my purchase history from
Amazon
for the swivel
spark plug
socket. Just double check the size from
FCP Euro
when/if you order from them. This was the size I bought based on this forum’s suggestions. And there are some good vids on YouTube on doing the plugs and coils, doesn’t seem like a terribly difficult job.
The O'Reilly readout is a basic OBD-II code readout. Not specific to Porsche. I'm sure with a code reader (see you're considering a Foxwell.. good move) lots more information can be revealed.
That's a typical dealer markup. Someone has to pay the mortgage on the fancy building, and all the lifts in the shop, and the lovely lady who greets you when you enter, and the comfortable waiting room with the coffee-bar and lunch food (most of which is tossed out every day - or maybe the mechanics can take it home...) and sending the mechanics to school every year - paying their expenses and salary.
That someone is you. My local dealership has a BIG shop - easily 20 lifts. They're planning on doubling the size of the shop sometime soon - - the shop provides that much profit. For some people, "Oh, less than $2,000, VISA OK?". When you deal with cars that can sell for more than $500,000 - it skews the service costs.
It's the reason being a member of a local PCA chapter is valuable - the members of the club will have people who value the dollar and don't feel it gains them anything to overpay for service. They'll know who the good local independents are - and wherever you find a Porsche dealer - within 30 miles there are probably several independents who work on Porsches.
Ahhh, wisdom. Yes, I have attended a few
Porsche
meets over the years. You are right, I should join. I'll check back into that now that I'm retired.
Thanks to you and WTFChuck for being instrumental in me ordering a
Foxwell NT530
, should arrive Thursday. I will report back with its readout.
I bought a
2011 987.2
and did the plugs and coils myself since there was no record of them being done. Lessons learned from my experience: Wobbly set of extensions are your friend. getting the right combination of sizes in the right order to get into the tight spaces is a bit of trial and error, but not hard. My plugs were difficult to remove. Used a penetrating oil and took my time tweaking them a little at a time until they broke free. removal of the heat shield can be a little tricky and requires an e-torx socket (
harbor freight
again is your friend here). I ended up taking the screw out that holds it in place and just worked it up and out of the way instead of trying to figure out how to remove it (getting it in and out is a bit of a puzzle and just pushing it up out of the way worked fine and prevents a lot of frustration). Lots of videos on how to do this. Recommendation is check the videos and take your time. Overall not a hard job once you work around the tight angles you have to take to get to the plugs and figure out how to get the heat shields off.
Thanks for the heads up. I have a pretty good array of extensions and swivels, as some of the videos I’ve watched make it all seem like one needs to be a contortionist to get this done. I’ll probably need a day of rest and my trusty ice pack after doing this. But I invested in
QuickJacks
for just these reasons. Considering what
Porsche
or even an Indy charges, they will pay for themselves in no time once I do plugs, coils, gearbox fluid change, oil changes,
exhaust
work, etc. After watching a video put out by
fcp Euro
, I ordered a set of e-Torx sockets and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench for the bolts holding the coil packs to the engine block. Now just waiting for a break in the weather, it’s too hot in southern Florida right now to tackle this. They’ll find my shriveled desiccated body lying under the car otherwise.
Done!
I located an informative 4-part step-by-step video calling out tools required for each phase.
Purchased
1. Foxwell NT530
2. FCP Euro Ignition Coil Kit - Bremi 996IGNCLKT
As mentioned by others replacement is a fairly simple process -> with a bit of patients.
If you want a laugh…. my learned Pro Tip: Push the coil pack electrical connection BOOT up prior to disconnecting the clip.
Using a small flathead screwdriver I pushed boots up then gently lifted the clip disconnecting the connector. On about the fifth coil I decided to save time by sliding the screwdriver under the boot to release the clip then slide the connector and boot off in one move. Wrong! When I tried to reconnect the clip the boot bottomed out on coil pack before the clip would connect. I spent 10 minutes trying to pull the electrical connector down out of the boot.
Project complete! Thanks to all contributors.
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