Transmission Emergency Run error _ 2012 Cayman R w/PDK

So, did a 2K mile road trip last week in my 2012 Cayman R with ~56K miles, and halfway through the trip the transmission went into neutral and I got this error message: Note: That picture was from the second or third time it happened, and the transmission was stuck in 5th gear. I managed to pull over to the side of the road, and make some calls/do some research. I shut the car off, and the error cleared upon restart. Of course, this happened when I was as far away from home as possible. And of more concern, it happened two or three more times on the trip. Every time this occurred, it took longer for the error to clear, and it seemed to happen only when rapidly decelerating from highway speeds when the transmission would normally rapidly shift down through the gears. Also, there's a solid amber check engine light on now (not flashing) with the "get the car to the workshop" message in the dash display readout. I did some research, and it may be electrical. I finally got around to replacing the stock CDR30 head unit just before this trip so I may have screwed up a connection or the battery may be going out (though it tests fine); not sure if that's the issue though since it's definitely coming out of gear, or getting stuck in a gear (4th or 5th) when it happens. I also replaced the air filter just before this trip, so will pull that tonight or manana to confirm it's correctly seated and not triggering a weird MAF reading. No history of any issues whatsoever with this car since new (I'm the original owner), and while most of the miles are at the track, this car is maintained religiously by either me or the local Porsche dealer. It is odd that it just now happened, after I did some electrical before this road trip. And regardless of the outcome, I'll likely add a PDK transmission cooler and flush both the trans as well as the clutch(es) before I go much further. --- Here are the codes I just pulled with my Durometric reader: Siemens Digital Motor Electronics SDI3 P0007 Implausible signal Transmission – PDK C146: U0146 - CAN timeout Gateway C418: U0418 - CAN fault, brake 0703: Brake light switch Information implausible 17D2: Gear selection hydraulics fault: Odd target gear during overlap 17D1: Gear selection hydraulics fault. No or wrong shift rod moved. 1990: Positive engine torque intervention not possible 1769: 6th gear cannot be engaged or gear skip 176F: 5th gear cannot be engaged or gear skip 1731: Shift rod 1 displacement sensors 17D3: Gear selection hydraulics fault: Even target gear during overlap Porsche Stability Management - PSM 5400: Fault sport mode Airbag - POSIP C141: Communication PCM (display) C152: Communication PSM control unit (drive) Gateway C144: Communication CDR (display) Front Body Module 8024: Parking light (marker light) front left 8025: Parking light (marker light) front right --- Any ideas or advice greatly appreciated

this article might have some useful info if the transmission is the problem Porsche PDK Transmission - Now REPAIRABLE - brrperformance.com Porsche PDK Transmission – Now REPAIRABLE This post / blog article talks about the ability to repair a Porsche PDK transmission for certain models / generations. We have had many [...] www.brrperformance.com

May not be relevant, but how old is your 12V battery ? I see a bunch of other weird errors here, so I Wonder if that's part of the problem... if it's old (I generally say about 5 years), it needs to be replaced. That can cause weird errors to disappear. You said the car is well maintained, but I had to ask... as this is often missed.

I see the outside temperature is 93F - and I'm sure Porsche added the heat-exchanger for a reason (they don't do that sort of thing just because...) The other times this happened what were the temperatures (I understand Texas is trying to out-temp the east coast - but at least yours is a dry heat - like an oven..)? You mentioned each time it happened (I assume the same trip) it took longer for it to clear when you pulled off the road. That would be consistent with heating of the system, and the heat going higher each time. When this happened and you pulled off the road - did your engine compartment fan turn on? That's another indication things are getting too darn hot. Today in NJ - it was also 93F (a nice humid 93F) and I was doing a garage-sale trip with lots of low speed driving (I live in an area considered to be a resort area by people in NYC - and weekends in the summer the entire city comes here and drives around aimlessly all weekend..) Anyway - this was the first time I could recall the engine compartment cooling fan coming on if I stopped at a light and idled. The radiator fans were going great guns - expected - but that engine compartment fan is really sort of a surprise. That fan will run with the key out of the ignition (usually the only time I heard it was after I parked the car in my garage on a hot day..) I'm just guessing the issue is temperature related and might just go away if it cools off a bit.

I’ll check the actual build date in the morning, but it’s a lightweight AGM that I put in about 3-4 years ago. And yes, concur; that was my first guess. I tested it twice over the past couple days when travelling and was getting a consistent 12.7 volts. Didn’t check amps or do a load test. May just swap that out as a matter of course to remove one variable. Edit: Just went out and checked; August 2020 build date if I’m reading this correctly. Should still be gtg at the 4-year point, but will grab another mañana anyway.

don’t recall the fans coming on, but I’m due a coolant flush anyway. Basically gonna take this opportunity to complete all 60K PM maintenance, plus anything else I can think of…or find.

91Eunos, dont panic....first step - try cleaning the MAF.

Given the symptoms and the P1731 code you're likely dealing with a bad PDK position sensor. As always,some additional troubleshooting using a PIWIS is recommended before throwing parts at it.

If it was my car I'd perform a PDK fluid replacement and then run the transmission cals. Best of luck

I was thinking the same...the infamous position sensor....a friend in Korea was looking for a cheap, used one. Found an "improved one" (via LN Engineering , similar to the IMSB) but they don't sell overseas or to individuals. Still over $2300...ouch.

My fan starts with the car during this weather especially if I was running the AC within the previous hour or so. When I park in the garage in the summer I use a 20" fan to exhaust the garage. These cars generate HEAT!

So, yeah… back to PDK info. Posting the links here for reference. Found a couple places that sell the sensor, if that’s the issue, but will need to find a shop to R&R it. LN Engineering sells one: New Replacement 7DT45 Shift Fork Position Sensor Unit for Porsche PDK Gearbox …but suspect they get it from one of these places: Porsche PDK Shift Fork Position Sensor New | XeMODeX Inc. This is a brand new PDK Shift Fork Position Sensor for Porsche. XeMODeX brand new replacement fixes commons issues related to Gearbox Fault, Transmission is in Limp Home mode, fault code 1731, fault code 1732, fault code 1733, fault code 1734 xemodex.com And: PDK Distance Sensor for Porsche 7DT45 7DT70 transmission PDK distance sensor. Dispacement gear position sensor for Porsche 7DT45 7DT70 transmission for 997 991 987 981 982 718 car models. Fix your PDK instead of buying new t-design9.com …and will almost certainly go ahead and replace the speed sensor if I go into the transmission: PDK Speed Sensor for Porsche 7DT45 7DT70 transmission PDK speed sensor for Porsche 7DT45 7DT70 transmission for 997 991 987 981 982 718 car models. Fix your PDK speed sensor instead of buying transmission t-design9.com ——- Will also add a deeper PDK sump and/or a larger PDK cooler from LPN Bilt Racing Service BRS 987.2/981 PDK Cooler Side Mount Since 2002, LN has delivered precision performance parts and services for Porsche engines including Nickies cylinder and piston sets and ims bearing kits. lnengineering.com and Bilt Racing Service BRS Billet PDK Transmission Pan 987.2 997.2 981 991 718 Bilt Racing Service BRS Billet PDK Transmission Pan for 987.2 997.2 981 991 718 models. lnengineering.com

T-design seems to be the most commonly used replacement. Adding a cooler for the differential side of the transmission would be a good idea. As stated earlier, before you spend all this time and money I suggest getting a PIWIS hooked up. I would look at the output from the distance sensors while letting the transmission warm up. Most likely you're going to start seeing anomalies as the transmission starts getting up to temperature. At that point you can be pretty certain of the diagnosis. If nothing else, I'd carefully inspect the wiring/connectors from the transmission to the TCU to rule that out.

What’s the hive-mind thoughts on larger/more coolers vs the deeper sump?

Deeper sump might extend the time for the oil to reach a certain temperature, a cooler will control the oil temperature. Big difference in operation.

OK, got both sides of the MAF sensor housing disconnected, and after a lot of finagling got the harness connector unhooked too. But I’m still not able to get the housing out though, unless I remove the plenum or maybe the air box. Sitting sideways in this pic: Regardless, was able to spin it around to spray it down from both sides with MAF cleaner, but now I’m having a hell of a time getting the damn housing back into the air box side. I even lubed up the o-ring with some grease I have that’s specifically for buna o-rings, but I just can’t get enough leverage to pop the clips over the locking tabs on the MAF housing. That damn metal tab that holds the engine cover is right where my wrist needs to be to reach in far enough to pull that clip over the tab. I even tried holding the tab(s) up and rotating the MAF sensor housing under them into place, but simply don’t have enough strength/leverage to compress that o-ring enough to get the sensor housing in deep enough to clear the locking clips. Anyone have any ideas? How tough is it to pull the air filter housing out?

OK, figured it out…. That big *** O-ring rides in a groove behind 4 little tabs inside the air box side of the housing where the MAF sensor housing slides in: Once I pulled my head out of my *** and stopped trying to compress the O-ring between the two housings, it was super easy. Everything else was pretty straightforward for reassembly.

Gonna get cleaned up and hopefully the new battery will be here tomorrow so I can get it charged and installed. Once I have that done, I’ll pull the codes again, and clear them, then take the car for a long drive …or until I get a fault again. I also have several liters of official Porsche Pentosin PDK fluid, and Porsche gear oil OTW, plus magnetic drain plugs, so I can do a quick drain and fill (the easy one that doesn’t require PIWIS fill mode), and then take it in to my local dealer for a PDK re-calibration; can’t find any independent shops around here with a PIWIS .

Hoping it's simple for ya, good luck.

Me too! LoL

Hope I don’t need it, but want to start compiling a list of shops that will service/repair PDK transmissions in NA. Some listed in various threads here, and other Porsche forums, but can’t find a comprehensive list. Would appreciate update/info from members here, and will update this post as I get more info. Here’s who I’ve found so far: Auto Repair Shop in Bellevue, WA | Auto Mechanics You Can Trust And Count On A&M Auto Repair Bellevue is King County's preferred auto repair shop located in Bellevue, WA, servicing all makes and models. Call for an appointment! amautofactoria.com https://www.atlspeedwerks.com/ Porsche, BMW, Audi Service Scottsdale AZ | Beck's European Beck's European will Service Your Porsche, BMW, Audi with Uncompromising Detail. Lower Costs than Dealerships. Serving Scottsdale since 1973. Family Owned! beckseuropean.com BGB Motorsports WE OPERATE AS A RETAIL PORSCHE PARTS AND SERVICE BUSINESS THAT PRIDES OURSELVES IN BEING ABLE TO OFFER A WIDE ARRAY OF RESOURCES IN THE FORM OF PORSCHE MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE, PORSCHE ENGINE BUILDING, CUSTOM OFF-ROAD PORSCHE VEHICLE BUILDING, PRIVATE CHASSIS DYNO TUNING AND PROFESSIONAL... teambgb.com Porsche Service Los Gatos, Porsche Repair Mechanic Los Gatos Porsche mechanic service and repair, Porsche factory service, maintenance, tires and alignment near Los Gatos and Campbell, CA. www.brrperformance.com Home Carlsbad | Oceanside's Premier Porsche Service and Performance Workshop www.joeleggs.com Canada: ZOROTECH zorotech.ca These guys say they service PDKs, and do “transmission repairs” but not sure they’ll repair a PDK: PDK Transmission Services : Tempe, AZ - Macllvain Motors "The transmission system in your car is the most important system after the engine & needs to be maintained. Here are the details about transmission servicing." www.mcilvainmotors.com This also looks promising; focused on drag racing, but here’s a list of Dodson PDK parts dealers: Our Worldwide Dual Clutch Transmission Specialist Pro Dealers & Dealers

Sorry to say it but you're likely just wasting time and money by messing with MAF, battery, calibrations etc. It is VERY likely the distance sensor code will come back, those things don't cause/fix those that issue. Find somebody with a PIWIS and look at real time data to determine the fault before shotgunning. Where are you located?

@91Eunos Battery can cause a whole witch's brew of problems on the 987.2. Agree that should be your first avenue of repair. 12.7v is not a great number, on the low side of spec, so you are likely heading off a problem in the long term by replacing it. If you track the car a lot and the fluid hasn't been changed, it can certainly cause issues, so that might be the next best option. The one thing I am cautious about is calibrating the clutches. If the trans shifts and runs normally when not experiencing the Trans Emergency warning, I recommend against doing the calibration. If the shift rod sensor is going out, it will brick the transmission (ask me how I know), and you will be stuck towing wherever until it's repaired. That said if you know someone with a Cobb Porsche tuner that has the PDK module. You can use the Cobb tuner to do the calibration. My 987.2 PDK died (shift rod sensor) at 70K with a few dozen track weekends on it. I was lucky enough to find a used trans with 11K miles. In 2019 dollars that cost about $10K installed IIRC. Sump vs cooler, go cooler. But it needs to be a gearbox side oil cooler that's where the shift rod sensor lives. If not the battery, then I'll agree with @ stjoh and others, you likely have a shift rod failure. Best of luck. K

91Eunos, glad you're taking it step by step... hope the effort pays off! be patient.... if you rush you break stuff... all the best!

Near(ish) to San Antonio….up in the beginning of Texas Hill Country. San Antonio Porsche is closer than Austin, but not by much; both are more than an hour away. Already reached out to the two PCA members I know who have indy shops; neither has a PIWIS . Gonna call around some more today to see what I have in the way of options. And yes, agree 100% that none of these “fixes“ will do anything if it is a bad sensor, but want to eliminate the easy stuff first. And I actually enjoy doing it as it helps me learn more about the current condition of my car as I inspect stuff while I work my way into and out of the part I’m replacing, and it simply gives me peace of mind knowing that particular part or sub-system is gtg After I’m finished.

Thank you!! Yeah, fingers crossed that this is a simple electrical blip caused by a dying battery, but trying to tee up the next steps just in case. And this car is almost 100% a track toy…has spent almost all of its life on a track or driving to/from a track. And had no idea the Cobb tuner could do that! Good data point for options…

Thanks! Yeah, I hope so too…worst case, I get some stuff sorted before a major expense, but have a car that’s better prepared for the track than it was before. My only concern is the cascading series of crap I can see happening “since I’m in there” once I pull the motor and/or trans…even though I think the sensors can be changed with the PDK still in the car on a 987.2 New exhaust, new suspension bits…Hell maybe even a new motor! I’ve been eyeballing that Deman 4.5L wondering if it’ll fit in a 987! LoL

while we should remain hopeful, its a good idea to get prepared for the worst case. this way you can make a rational decision on the next steps. dont got overboard too...if you pull the trans now it will make transporting the transmission difficult to a specialist repair shop if its the worst case scenario. A 987.2 PDK is still repairable. I have been thru both and the important thing is that you are clear on how much you are budgeting to put into the car. again best of luck

The distance sensor is easy to replace with the transmission still in the car for a Cayman / Boxster . A bit harder but very doable for the 997/991. I hope you find somebody local with a PIWIS so you can confirm the failure. You'd also need it for the calibration after repair.

Got the new battery in, and all codes cleared with my Durometric tool. Did a short drive around the neighborhood (long enough to get the oil warmed up enough to check the level though), and no issues so far. Shifts fine in normal, sport and sport+, and shifts up/down manually just fine too. Fingers crossed! Fluids to drain/fill the transmission won’t be here until next week, so just gonna clean it up from the road trip and keep the new battery happy on a battery tender for now.

Sorry for the delayed response… Car’s been parked except for occasional short trips since the errors popped. I want to change the trans fluids before pushing it again, but just haven’t had the time. 2-post lift should be installed in my garage by the end of the week, and the first task will be to change the fluids in both sides of the PDK (gear oil and atf), as well as upgrading the cooler and pan. I’ll also prep the transmission for external coolers and thermostat-controlled fans that I plan to mount in the back, under the rear bumper cover where the bumper overriders currently sit; something like this (taken from another member here): Once that’s done, I’ll start pushing the car again at the track, and see what happens.