Enough already!!

Just gone to leave work for the evening and ''here we go again' it won't start! Same symptoms as before, cracks but won't fire up. I've had enough of this now.

You paid good money for them to fix it. take it back. Best of luck Liam.

Thrown any lights up?.

It will go back tomorrow. No lights or faults shown on diagnostic. Its driving me mad, was meant to be going to hampshire for weekend.

They are too busy to take it! Kept saying they work 2 weeks in advance etc etc. Anyone know a good car thief? [ ]

Right, garage who did the work originally can't see it for at least a week now! Another Indy will be next thurs and Porsche at Towcester 8th August! What do you think the car will be worth as it is? Very tempted to cut my losses and trade it in. 2002 996 C4 80k, any ideas?

Liam, Sorry to hear of your further woes..... I would've thought that they had a duty to look at car asap given what you'd been charged.... If all else fails & you're really stuck, you could speak to Dove House in Rushden as they now have their own service dept but doesnt mean they can fit you in..... & would they want to inherit someone elses problem! atb Paul

Hi Liam, Sorry to hear of your returning problems, I just looked on Pistonheads and there seems to be a lot of people with good experience of Fearnsport who are based at Silverstone. Hope you're happy again soon.

Take it to the garage you paid to do the work and leave it on there premises. Every customer that goes there will want to know all about it. There just trying to fob you off because they don't want it back. Did you have to wait 2 weeks when you first took it there?. And question your bill again "as to what did they fix?" All the best.

Can I ask which garage you had the work done at? Poor service from them!

Not sure what you have tried already but here's an idea: http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=612015&mpage=1&key=&#612015

P.S list of possible issues I can think of, you may have done some already: Check fuel delivery -Leave fuel and pressure to settle for several hours, turn the key, check the pump primes for two seconds or more -Remove spare wheel, trim and carpet under hood near fuel tank (under the battery tray) crank and see if you can here the pump whining -Check fuel relay, bridge top and bottom pins with a fused lead or fuse wire for several seconds to check pressure and delivery -Crack open bolt on end of fuel rail by 1 turn, have someone turn it over, check fuel is there (don't open too much or you will have a geiser!) -Check you have sufficient fuel (silly one but check this, do a search for fuel sender unit and my name and you will find a diagram indicating the issues on 996 with the float being obstructed by the fuel lines) -Check fuel lines if you have a delivery issue and the pump is ok, remove battery and tray, large collar and pull the lines off and unit out -Test fuel cap is venting, remove cap when problem is experienced -Have duty on injectors tested, and perhaps run cleaner through them if a fuel delivery issue -Change fuel filter Check Ignition -Check barrel is opperational (volt meter on a switch to the ignition feed) -Check ignition relay, some more info I posted up on here and 911uk http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=61940 -Check coils are opperational, either diagnostic or remove fuel relay and bridge coils to check for spark (harsh way but it works) -Remove and inspect plugs -Test Crank sensor (diagnostic readout of realtime RPM required on this one really when the vehicle is showing symptoms) -Have CPS's inspected / tested (although would likely start and cause rough running or loss of power) Other than that the next things would be more serious inspections within the actual block, but I seriously doubt it's anything serious, just a small problem that is difficult to identify. That's all I can think of for now - good luck. Cheers, Steve

Steve - all good info, but check this out: http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=627573&mpage=1&key=

Ouch! Sorry I couldn't remember that thread nor replying That is a strange one, and from reading the symptoms and the amount you have had replaced it sounds to me like you may have been 'unlucky' in that another fault was brewing and or adding to your existing issue (that would be my suggestion if the loom and ECU / lambda was replaced correctly). I'd suggest in that case taking it back as you paid a fair amount for it to be rectified in the first place and having it inspected (I would insist without cost for checking the original work), or getting an inspection on the original work by a third party. If this is ruled out then it could be something like the CPS or similar that was compounding the issue. It's extremely strange that the wire on the lambda touched the manifold an melted, that sounds to me like the lambda was replaced with either an aftermarket one or a generic four wire one with a longer loom allowing it to move around. Do you have any history of anything like that being replaced before? Was anything else changed at that time? It could help rule out other components if it was fairly recent. Cheers,

Just deciding what to do about the car repairs etc. Had another look at the car and as i have never taken any notice before i'm not sure what is right! When i turn the ignition the battery shows 12V but when i crank the engine (doesnt start) it goes to zero (10 or under), is this normal?

If the battery was the problem you would get a "slow" crank, you'd feel it straight away. Never looked at the volt reading when I start but it does pull a lot of power so it doesn't sound that strange. I think I would be patient and get it to an OPC, possibly on your indie's expence. If they don't have the knowledge locally they certainly have the network to sort it out. I hope... It seems that so many of the faults that have been tried and tested wouldn't stop the car from starting, just give a fault message in the ECU. But it certainly seems like a complicated issue. Good luck and hang in there, you're gonna love the car once you get it sorted. [ ]

it would be the Amps that would be of interest

A friend of mine has same car, says his voltage shows between 12 & 14 never under 12 and when cranks to fire it goes to just above 12, never below. Mine as i say goes to the bottom (10), just wondering now that all the time it sat there before (6 weeks) that the battery or alternator may have a problem.

I checked mine and it goes down to about 10,5 so I don't think that's an issue. Not that my car's perfect but it does at least start and I have the 88 Ah battery.[ ] Just wonder it you've got Mr.Streather's 996 book? There's quite a few possibillities under the fault finding section that's not mentioned in your other tread. I guess a lot of people have that book so I didn't bother to quote any of it but if you don't I can list some of it for you.

Thanks Alex, i don't have the book. Hmmmm ok well have to think of something else.

Ok, I'm just summarizing the suggestions that I don't think has been tried, and if they have just ignore them. [ ] - Starter motor failed - DME relay failed - a short in the ignition circiut, check C2 - a short in the fuel pump circuit, check C4 - flywheel speed reference sensor or sensor mount failed - idle speed control valve failed closed - throttle valve stuck close - resonance valve stuck open These are all listed under 'enginge won't start but cranking normal/or slow' fault finding section. There's also a mention that an ECU fault is highly unlikely.

Had a little mess about with the car yesterday evening, tried charging the battery, made no change! So (i'm not sure why as i have no idea about cars!) I thought to myself i wonder if it has anything to do with the fuel relay switch, i checked it and it seemed very hot! So i took it out and had a look at it (not entirely sure what i was looking for!) gave it a clean and put it back in, at the same time pushing the other relays in to make sure they were ok. It started, although stuggled a little!!!!!!! So when i got it home i changed the relay for a new one and again it started, once again with a struggle but at least it started, same again this morning.

Hi Liam, At least you made progress. In your first thread you said the fuel pump relay was removed but there was still power at the pump?. Is this still the case?. Regards Richard.

Have you tested or replaced the fuel pressure regulator? Can reek havoc if they fail, sometimes no fuel, sometimes too much fuel, often diaphram splits and it sucks fuel from the reg via the vaccuum lines back to the inlet mani, and causes huge richness, wets plugs, makes them go black, confuses lambdas, knackers cats etc. I'd think worth a simple check of pulling the fuel pressure reg vac pipe off and cranking it, if you get fuel spewing from the vac pipe take off, it is goosed. If not, it may still be shot, but you'll need a pressure guage to test outroight pressure and l;eak down. Also, MAF? Have you tried disconnecting the MAF and startign it? I think it should start on base DME settings, but not run too well. But could be MAF is shot. Sure you have replaced DME relay, but if not, worth doing perhaps? Ont he other thread, the story about the ecu / DME all sounds a bit odd. Rare for them to go. I'm surprised Reading had one in! Hope you sort it though.