The New Official "Things you didnt know about your 996" thread

EDIT- I have edited a copy of this thread to remove some of the non tech posts and made it a sticky, Lets post only tech info on this thread. - Thanks to all who contributed! -- Marc Gelefsky What are some things that most people do not know about their 996? Interesting little bits of information, odd facts, interesting tricks....LIST EVERYTHING YOU KNOW THAT YOU THINK SOMEONE ELSE MIGHT NOT!!!! Ill start with a couple.. 996 engines are hand assembled 996 NB width = 69.5 inches, 993TT WB width = 70.7 inches There is a tool under the overhead lights to open/close the sunroof in case of failure. Phil's former C4S is still in a garage sitting...

The 996/997 series are subject to condensation on the outside of the winshield due to a rather stupid design flaw that as of yet Porsche will not admit.

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Do you mean like dew in the morning? That's not Porsche's fault.

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On "Auto" the AC vent aimed lower middle part of the windshield is on so it gets cold enough for condensation to form on the exterior of the glass. The net result is that you have to run your windshield wiper on a bright sunny day.

Even though you may turn off your AC(manually), when you restart your 996, the AC will return to the AC setting you had on prior to shutting it off. Just because you had the RMS seal replaced (again),doesen't seem to prevent the same problem from occuring over, and over again...

Here's a fun fact: If you get the condensation on the window with AC on, press the second button from the top on the right side of the climate control unit. It's the one with the oval icon that represents the center vent. It will stop the condensation and you won't have to use your wipers. Works for me anyway.

I didnt know (for a short while) that there is a manual spoiler lift button, and that its press once to raise and press and hold to lower... BTW, I LOVE that thing.... the spoiler automatically going up on the highway just does it for me...

- There is a light in my ashtray that comes on when I turn the headlights on and I can see this little light shining in there through the seam in the ash tray door when I have it closed. Interesting, my coins need a night light! - Rim's are not 17" or 18". They are metric and slightly larger then the 'stated' size in inches. For example. Most 15" rims are 15.2 inches. Found this out last night while being taught how to use a wheel balancer machine. When you place the measurment arms onto each side of the rim, the unit reads out the size, (plus all other dimensions). We tried it on a few different rims and they all read (in inches) slightly larger then the 'assumed' size. For whatever old school ease of speech purposes I guess, we have stuck to 'rounding out' the measure of rim sizes in North America.

I wont say this is 100% across the board, so may be just a quirk of my car - (1) If you fill the tank with the engine running the gas guage will not show full until you drive about 10 miles (or shut the car off, remove the key and turn it back on) (2) The spedometer is off so that it reads faster than you are driving - almost all 996's from what I hear cool idea for a thread Fred !

if you push and hold 2 (can't remember now which 2) buttons on your climate control you get a whole series of temperatures - outside, inside, engine, etc.

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what year car? (mkI, mkII?) - COOL!

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Only works on the Mk1 cars. I use this all the time to get a slightly more accurate reading of operating temps, but there's a long list of other things it tells you. Here's how to do it: Press and hold in the recirculate and the top (arrow up) buttons on the right side of the panel for a few seconds. The left screen will change. Using the + key below that screen, advance so the display reads 6c. Then press the center vent button once. The display will show you your coolant temp. To revert to the original HVAC settings, just press 'auto'. For the rest of that drive cycle, you can get the temp info again by pressing the recirc and arrow up buttons again, and the temp will appear immediately. You have to repeat the whole process for the next drive cycle.

Wheel installation guide pin in the tool set. Helps prevent hitting the calipers and just make it easier to put on the wheel. Ignition Switch on the left side, came from when drivers had to run to the car and start up the car. This allowed them to use 1 hand to for the ignition and the other to put the car in gear. Jump start the car from the rear compartment. Connectors are in the engine compartment. There are power connectors in drivers side fuse box. Connect power to this and then you can pop the trunk lid to get at the dead battery. If you have power seat with memory, you can set the passenger side mirror to tilt down when your put it in reverse by saving your seat memory while gear is in reverse. Disconnecting the battery clears any codes and forces engine to recalibrate air/gas mixture. Steering wheel lock. With ignition key in gently tug the wheel left or right to lock the steering wheel in position. To turn off AC completely, keep lowering the fan level until it turns off. To lock seat belt into position, move seat back all the way, then tighten up the seat belt, give it a quick snap once and it should lock. Move seat back into driving position. This keeps you nice and snug for driving and the track.

What are pumpkins? What are MKI, MKII and any other 996 designations?

- Park any Porsche the furthest spot away from any other car, say a good 1000ft away from any mall entrance: wait 1 hour and come out and see, (often the only other car in the lot) a car parked BESIDE you when there were 900 other empty parking spots they could have used. Fact.

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Pumkins are the orange side markers. 996 MK I - 1998-01 996 MK II - 2002 and up

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Is the major difference the 3.4 vs 3.6L engines?

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As well on the 99 C2 drive by wire changed to egas in 2000. The 3.6l has an integrated fuel filter that doesn't require service. 3.4l's have a separate fuel filter which needs to be changed according to the maintenance schedule.

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To name a few off the top of my head: 3.6 w/Variocam Plus New headlight, Front fenders, Bumpers 15% Better Flow to radiators Lift reduced 25% front and 40% rear Substantially stronger body structure Glove box! some interior changes, Trip computer standard, 3 spoke wheel standard... blah..blah..etc ..etc

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Only the 99 had a mechanical throttle (as well as the ones built prior... did you know there were even a handful of 996s that got 1997 VINs?). E-gas started with MY'00. IMO, the 996 actually changed a lot from the earliest Mk1s to the Mk2s at the end of the series. The earliest cars were simpler, while the later ones became more GT-like. More power, more weight, more refinement, more comforts and conveniences. I think of the newer cars as not just 'better' but as a different flavour.

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This is a wonderful book to own. http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-996-Es...5014240&sr=8-1

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Thats a great book and the author is longtime Rennlister.

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all C4's, 99 included are E-gas. C2 got it in 2000

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Works with rear seats as well.

You can adjust the intensity of the convenient lights that stay on at night inside the cabin. MkI '01 and beyond. BTW, if you have the silver painted center console, the little convenient light above (behind rear view mirror) will make it glow at night. Its pretty cool looking.

Put LED taillight and brake light bulbs in and your dash will flash ABS/PSM faults. Cool!

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There's also LED "convenience" amber lights at the very front/tip of each armrest/door "grab".

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And your cruise control will be inop. To solve this problem I installed a 50 watt halogen bulb in the stop light circuit using the NC contacts of a 12 volt relay. Without stop lights on the bulbs represents a LOW resistance load but with 12 volts applied to the stop light LEDS the relay picks up and removes the bulb from the circuit. CC uses stop light applied voltage as a signal to turn off automatically. With LEDs installed, no bulb resistive load, the stop light voltage will "float" up to as much as 2 volts which is enough to make the CC inop.

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That's one of the reasons why I had a toggle switch installed inside the center console glove box that I can use to open the A/C compressor clutch...off means OFF. I do not turn the switch on unless I need cooling or initial cabin cooldown. It remains OFF throughout the non-cooling need season.

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Ill have to try your method the next time the need arises.But mostly whenever I get into the car and I have the A/C enabled I depress the upper PB in the three group set that manually controls the airflow outlet direction to first open the defrost/defog/demist outlet and then depress it again to close it. That action apparently puts only that particular fucntion under manual control while all others remain under automatic control.

If you twist the clock adjustment **** (the one upper right of speedoneter) for 5 seconds the speedometer converts to Km.

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*** I reserve the use of the "highest" seat memory PB to increase, slightly increase, the downward angle of both outside mirrors at night. Makes up for not having the self-dimming driver side outside mirror. ...

Put your ignition key into the door lock, turn it and hold it, and the windows will open. If you turn it the other way, it will close the windows and sunroof.

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Oh, I see, at least I think so. Your proceedure would never allow the system to automatically switch to footwell and/or footwell and dash combined mode. That could get pretty discomforting if any level of cabin heating were required. If heating is the "target" then footwell ONLY would be the most desireable from a comfort standpoint. On the other hand if a serious level of cabin heating is required then footwell AND defrost/defog/demist airflow would be desireable. In COLD weather the windshield interior surface should ALWAYS be continuously warmed. Maybe I should revise my modification so that when the compressor is enabled the defrost/defog/demist airflow outlets are ALWAYS forced closed.

The early Litronics, HID headlights, were not truly bi-xenon in the modern sense. Up until at least '02 the 996's projector HID assembly would automatically tilt upward in high beam mode but the shading apperture within the projector assembly used to provide the sharp upper pattern beam cutoff remained in place. Newer bi-xenon HID projector low beam assemblies not only shift the beam pattern upwards in high beam mode but also use a small 12 volt solenoid to move/flip the shading apperture totally out of the HID beam path at the same time. Negating, possibly, the need for a halogen high beam "fill-in" bulb entirely.

- Leave the car sitting for more than 10 days ...be prepared for the battery to be dead. - If you zip tie the yellow button on the orange rectangular box above the clutch pedal on manual cars, it will improve the shifting.

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I have left my car sitting for 30 days or more, always fires right up.

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+1 Marc, but I don't try leaving it with the key in the ignition.

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Yeah, that I know!

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What's this all about? Improve the shifting how?

The throttle map is different depending on if the clutch is in or out. Zip-tying the switch makes the throttle map the same all the time. It seems like a lot of trouble to mess with when a little practice would do better...that being said I haven't tried it. But I don't plan to. Okay here's one...the lug bolts have a special collar so that as you tighten or loosen them, they do not rub against the wheels and mar them up. Also, the tip of the Porsche crest on the center cap is supposed to point towards the valve stem!

After falling in love with a Porsche, it is likely you will think all other cars look like crap - good info here - I have some new things to do on the car, tried the temp control unit thing and got in some wierd "mode" I will try again later... mine said "0" and something, then I mover the up and down arrows andit went to 1-2.... I stopped... what was that ? (pressed recirc and top ^ on right for 3 seconds)

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Ed, do you have this? Porsche AC Diagnostics (undocumented, unsupported feature) The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996.... To switch from F to C: Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB! Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - Temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp? This is the anti stall (when on a hill) switch... the map is slightly more aggressive so it is easier to drive forward when you are on a steep hill. It does give it a better throttle response... This is called a floating collar... it helps maximizing contact surface area of the lugs/wheel, centering the lugs. This is a concourse detail thing.... this is a must!

thats what it looks like.... WOW - thats a lot of info, I will try and play with it later...THANKS! I will report findings

That clutch switch is the clutch delay thinger, which actually cuts back on throttle response. I think Porsche wanted it in there so people wouldn't rip up their clutches so fast. A lot of companies do this, actually.

The little tab on the gas flap holds cord and cap away from fender. Cab top only leaks at the car wash Panties do not automatically come off passengers.

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I didn't mention battery posts in the front becuase I think everyone knows that the battery has posts. Some times you can get a check engine light and want to reset it to see if it comes back. Cats or air sensors could through a code. So yes it does save you a few bucks instead of getting a OBDII reader Meant unlock, though to lock you need ignition key out. Hitting the PB still will have the fan/heat going. If you want to completey turn off the unit do you need to hit the fan button until it says off. Also the AC/Fans stay off even after restarting the car.

Porsche AC Diagnostics (undocumented, unsupported feature) can the temps be converted, or do I have to do it... these are kind of useful if I can read oil temp and such 1c - Oil Temp? 6c - Coolant temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) - OH have to try this 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. - cool, but slow 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. This is cool, I will try the other sun sensors, its like a smile meter... the sun hits the window and the meter goes up - COOL!! 28c - Fan speed? - cooling fan maybe?? 31c - Timing counter - FAST !!! 32c - Displays test - useful ! 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 Mine says 3.5

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Oh dude, awesome use of the third button! I used the reverse/tilt feature of the pass mirror until I realized it didn't do much for me and was just wearing out my pass mirror motor! Lol! But that idea of using the memory button for nighttime mirror tilt is clever. Awesome list! I've been looking for one that had all the goodies on one place, and with some input from people (like 33c info) to compare to. I just know 6C by heart.

-If you have an aerokit car, the spoiler switch is there but of course inoperable. -If you have a Tip car, you will state that your car doesnt get hot and wonder why everyone elses does. Then you remember your 3rd radiator that only Tip cars have. -The trans is in front of the engine so dont have your drunk brother who has never worked on a Porsche go change the engine oil. He will drain the Tiptronic fluid which will cause about 5 hours of research for cross-referencing what firggin' fluid can be used. -No weight on the front tires being rear-engined makes any car on the road out stop your precious, high-priced German machine in low speed situations. -If you get the *** to spin out in your 996, you will understand how much Engineering went into correcting this condition because your *** will be broke from being planted in the seat right before full recovery. -The AOS is the biggest over-Engineered, under quality made component around. Most vehicles use a $4 PCV valve that takes 10 seconds to replace but the AOC causes you 10 hours of work because of the flat engine design. I've got more but have to get back to work.

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That's hilarious! This transaxle design is actually pretty cool. One of the benefits of it is that there is less parasitic loss to the drivetrain than with a conventional layout. 911s only lose something like 15% of their crank horsepower getting it to the wheels. It's one of the things that gives a 911 its 'feel'. Actually, I think the opposite is true. One of the charms of a 911 is that instead of weight transferring forward of the front axle when braking, it transfers from the rear towards the center of the car. I love the way it brakes at any speed. Indeed. The rear suspension of these cars has a passive steering feature meant to reduce trailing throttle oversteer. I think it's called the Weissach axle, and was pioneered on the 928. It's an amazing piece of engineering.

- The bracket under the steering column is for the owners manual - You can purchase a "red clip" (about $0.75) for your 996 Cab from Porsche that will allow you to activate the in car motion sensors if you park and lock the car with the top down (they are normally not active if the top is down). - The dealer can program the door locks to automatically lock at speed with the PST2 tool - If you don't change your yellow sidemarkers to clear sidemarkets Tim will make fun of you every time you post a picture.

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I always here this but I've never been able to fit it in there. Are you supposed to take it out of the leather (pleather?) case first?

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You have to take all the sales crap out... and have like 3 books or less in there, Porsche design it with weight savings in mind. FLJ_4823z.jpg

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I think so (I don't use the bracket in my cars).

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"...The bracket.." You mean the one I drilled out and tossed...? Hopefully NONE of need to have the owners manual that close at hand. "...normally not active..." That's strange, mine are active even with the sunroof fully open and both windows fully rolled down.

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OK, so where do I put the case for the owner's manual?

Oh, here's something I thought of...on the C4 cars with the "collapsed" spare tire, there's enough room under the trunk's false floor to squeeze a small set of jumper cables, among other things.

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on my computer desk so I can quickly reference it for RENNLIST QUESTIONS ! (along with the manual of course)

Just catchin up GREAT THREAD! Did you know?....1. That you can operate the rear windows in a cabriolet by pushing in on the center top lock and pushing the rear window buttons at the same time? 2. you can roll down the windows and open the convertible top by pressing on the key in the door key lock. You can prevent the the battery losing charge while is short storage ( up to 10 days) if you lock the doors. Sport mufflers (Fabspeed) and Sprint Boosters are the two best additions that you can do to increase the enjoyment of your Pcar. I have a C4S TIP and proud of it. After having 6 Pcars all manual, including several with clutch pulley systems (356, 914 and 911 Targa)I love my Tiptronic S with paddle shifters in So Cal Traffic! I just feel sorry for all those 911 manuals, clutch pulling every 3 yards for 20 miles on the freeway.

Here's one that hasn't come up yet. The oil filler pipe can be unclipped from the airbox. There's a bellows section in the pipe which then let's you tilt the pipe up a good 6 inches to make adding oil a no-mess breeze. Used this today when I did my oil change.

The little led that is in the middle of the dash right under the windshield lights up red in conjuction with the led on the key remote to let you know it is working. PCM 2 has a lot of out-there features such as a setting for calibrating the trip computer for each time you get new tires. It also can detect CD names / track names for most CDs, even if they are a mix cd made by the user. For CDs that don't have readable track data, you can enter the name of the cd in PCM 2 so that it will show up in the CD list for the CD changer.

there is a coin holder in the rear center compartment.... yeah, a coin holder.

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Funny, I JUST found this out when reading a parts diagram on the center console! Those little fins are coin holders!? Go figure!

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Why the hell would you fill the tank with the engine running?? Am I the only one who finds this odd?! Lol.

Is there anything that has to be reset after removing a dead battery from the car?

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need to input the radio/nav code... thats it. The ecu will adapt to your driving habits...

what I learned looking for tranny oil for my 2002 996 tip: The tip-S is is made by Mercedes Benz and is also used in many MB cars, as well as some Dodges and Chryslers. The transmission is called "722.6". It is considered "bullet proof" mechanically and mostly suffers from electronic issues rather then mechanical. Some 722.6's have a bolt on the torque converter to allow draining the oil - the 996 version doesnt not. This tranny installed in most MB models has a filler tube in the engine compartment but the dip stick needs to be purchased separately. The 996 version doesnt have a filler tube and gets filled via a fill bolt on the transmission. the correct fluid for this tranny is the fuchs 3353 labels "Titan" available from Pelican parts. The gasket and filter look identical to the MB spec ones but cost 3x and 7x more respectively for the Porsche.

Although not confirmed myself, I have read that the Tip cars have a direct pulley on the alternator while the manuals have a sprag type pulley. I remember my Tip alt pulley was solid. Can anyone confirm this?

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depends on the year of your car...MY 03+ radio code is stored in the DME.

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"..The ecu will adapt to your driving habits.." And here I thought Porsche owners were too bright to believe that CRAP..!! Maybe in the general case. Even if the ECU does "learn", adapt, to some aspects of your driving habits those will be, MUST, be erased upon each engine stop/start cycle.

Yes the 996 Tiptronic S transmission is a MBZ tranny. As for the AWD cars, C4, C4S, Turbo, only the 996 Turbo Tiptronic uses another MBZ tranny (F-1) with different OEM part number and they are not interchangeable due to bolt pattern. If you build an aspirated 996 with more horsepower (ie supercharger) you may risk damage to the Tiptronic Transmission, if you were thinking "the Tiptronic, if it can withstand the bHP from a turbo, then it is okay for a supercharger" idea. Not.

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huh? So, when you put an exhaust or a cai... the ecu wont know the diff between aftermarket or stock? The engine management on these cars are adaptive... just about any modern sports cars have this feature. When you unplug the battery, the mapping goes to default... as you drive... the car learns your driving habits. In other words... it re-maps itself based on trending patterns of the way you drive.

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Yep, Tippy, confirmed. Tip's pulleys are hard connected to the alt shaft, whereas the manuals have a free-wheeling clutch (sprag) type pulley, sort of like the rear cassette of a bicycle. Alt can then freewheel back down to engine speed rather than be sucked down with it. I'm guessing this is this to decrease drag on the motor, and help keep revs up when shifting???

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My statement applies to the systems "learning" "...your driving habits..." Modify the engine in some manner and the ECU will eventually learn new parameters if/as needed. Or you can disconnect the battery for a period and the ECU will adapt to the "new" parameters more quickly.

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Did you know that not all Tiptronics come with the 3rd radiator?

how can I tell if I have the 3rd rad?

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Walk to the front of your car. Bend down and look into the big opening in the middle. If the opening is actually open and you see a radiator grille in there, then you have the third radiator (the other two radiators can be seen with a flashlight by lookng onto far corners of the front openings). If you see black plastic, or nothing but the outside of the truck well, then you DO NOT have the third radiator. Most C2 manual shift cars DO NOT. All GT3, and Tiptronic C2/C4 (should) have them. C2S/C4S may have it, depending on year.

Another thing.... The driver's side rear fog light is operable but the passenger side rear fog light does not illuminate. It comes that way from the factory.

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Is this a rhetorical question?

no rad on mine

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True if the original engine. All M96/01, M96/02 and M96/04 replacement engines from Porsche have a Tip harness installed and the sprag type pulley. Therefore, the replacement engine can be used in either a Tip or a manual car. The freewheeling pulley was to fix a belt shredding problem IIRC.

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+1 and if you want to get a redneck to laugh at your car because it has "electrical problems" just drive in front of your brother with that on and he will be happy to do that for you...... Then explain that it is "normal" and you did that on purpose to see what he would say and it will confuse the sh^t out of him as he will again explain that something is wrong with your lights.....

I've been playing with that climatronic diagnostic. Super cool stuff. It's fun to watch the coolant temp (6c, I believe) get up to 87 degrees, then drop down a few as the thermostat opens, then climb up into the 90s. We'll have to figure out what some of the "unknown" codes are.

That a CEL on the 996 is usually FI/sensors related whereas other cars I've owned were always polution emissions related. This caused me not to diagnose for 55k miles thinking, "ah, its ok", when the whole time the MAF had croaked. Bosch electronics..........Germans cant make anything electrical worth a crap and plastic for that matter! Relax, I'm kraut.

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That's a gorgeous interior, is it yours? If so how about some more pics?

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Since Im the OP... hi-jacking shouldnt be a problem.... thanks for the compliment! renn18.jpg

Is the "911" door sign original? I never seen that before, will love mine to say that instead of "carrera". Is it aftermarket?

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Millennium Edition 911, Nice 911 badge on rear deck as well. all stock

All, since I made this a sticky lets post only tech info here, the original thread still exists as well. Thanks!

Compared to the year before the 996 was made: aerodynamics were improved so the drag co-efficient was lowered from 0.33 to 0.30. This was achieved by the sloping of the headlights and the windscreen plus making the door handle flush and body parts fit more closely together. The new engine is watercooled, the car is bigger in all directions and has more electrical toys then ever, BUT the car actually weighs 50 kg's less then the the previous model The engine volume was decreased 200 cc to 3387 cc, but the power is up 14 bhp. to 296 bhp

There are 2 hidden pull cables for the engine/trunk lids... for the "just in case" scenarios.

If you leave your car locked for 7 days or more the remote will not function and you have to use the key, this is to conserve battery power. 98-02 Stereo head units can be easily replaced and the stock amps and speakers can be used 03+ have the Most bus so this cant be done.

Next to the lifting arms for the wing are little holes for adding lubricant like triflow through a straw.

When cab owners put their hard tops on in the fall, it feels like you just got a new car. The car rides differently with the weight of the top. It's quieter. A lot more head room. I can actually hear the stereo in traffic. But it sure is nice to store the top for the nice seasons and get some open air time. It's two...two cars in one. (Oh, yeah.....and you can use the free car wash at the local Porsche dealership during crappy weather when you'd still like a clean car.) I really didn't expect the car to be so different depending on which top was in use.

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Where are they? I almost closed my front compartment after taking out the battery. I knew there must be manual cables somewhere.

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pm sent...

you mean any porsche dealerships will allow you to use their car wash? and only on bad weather days? REALLY? (Oh, yeah.....and you can use the free car wash at the local Porsche dealership during crappy weather when you'd still like a clean car.)

+1 free car washes for any model 996 at the dealer? Can anyone confirm.

mine also vacuums the cabin, too

Speakin' of "things you didn't know...." I've not yet found THE resouce/list of "things that you should expect will fail and when" for the 996 - has that been published ever? sort of the preventative maintenance guide, if you will... First post...sorry if missed something in the FAQ's... unkie

The 996 is really great to drive on those perfect sunny days - When the weather is crappy, heavy rains, poor driving conditions, snow, or whatever nature throws at it.... its AMAZING !! LINK LINK LINK the link has a nice facts page with background and details of the cars. It would be a good read for someone thinking of getting a 996

1. The rear suspension design of the 996 is virtually the same as the one on the 993. The 993's rear suspension was such a leap forward in design compared to the earlier (964-previous) that it was carried over to the 996 and 997 basically unchanged (and also to save money), just tuned to the new chassis/weight. 2. The reason why 4L is the maximum displacement that will be probably be achieved on the current flat six is because Porsche is and has been using the same machining/boring tool on the engine cases over the years. It can only make the same distance for the in-between piston spaces, thereby, making every displacement increases over the years, with thinner walls in-between. Read both of these in one the Porsche design books on the 996, when the 996 first came out.

WOW guys, this a hell off a thread...now that's what I call a lot of info! The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know. Thanks for all the tips! Sid.

2003 C4S gas tank design is such that if the gas in the tank falls and remains below a certain level, the gas gauge does not register gas added to tank. I have not figured exactly where that point is, but in my C4S, if my gas has fallen below that magic level, i have to add approximately 1/2 tank of gas for the gauge to begin registering correct levels again. This is an atrocious design flaw, and doesn't indicate a gas gauge fault.

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Hey rrspikemarty, I actually recently found out that this is because the gas tank in the 996 C4S is made out of 2 separate tanks connected by an "overflow" (much like in a plane), this was done for space and weight distribution reasons. If your car is half full when you start your drive it will give an accurate reading even if it drops below the "overflow" connector ( by computing based on the data from one fuel tank) , however if you then park your car with lower fuel levels (and you start it up again) it only reads the fuel in 1 of the 2 tanks. Thats why it's good idea never to let your fuel levels drop below 1/3 Hey I contributed something Cheers, Sid

yeah, that's what i'd heard. You'd think a car that has cup holders, would have a better gas gauge ;-) rrspikemarty out

About 2 weeks ago I bought the car and just yesterday I was reading the manual and found out sure enough if I hold the key in the door to unlock or lock the windows operate down or up. Never knew that one. Great trick for here in Hawaii with the heat the sun makes in the car.

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From my experience this is not unique to the 996 or Porsche. I believe they do this to make the foglight more noticeable.

(as I've been told) tiptronics have 2 gears in reverse?

Okay, I have been throwing a CEL light ever since I got my car. I bought a Code Reader (Harbor Frieght $56) and it pulled up Code 1126 & 1137 (I think) for bad pre cat O2 sensors. I removed them and cleaned them, no luck, replaced the left one with a used one......no luck. The CEL would come on just as the car would come up to temperature on the water temp.....60% of the time. Installed a new MAF BINGO - JACK'S A DONUT - THAT FIXED IT!!!

Three things that make me cringe I learned from my 1999 Dealer brochure that just came in. And I quote from page 15 "Each engine is tested rigorously---on the bench for up to half an hour, with a full minute nonstop at redline !!!!!!!!! Then a rolling road test. And ultimately , the final exam: 90 minutes on the Autobahn, where every 911 off the assembly line must satisfy perhaps the worlds most demanding , and some say most fortunate, driver- a Porsche test driver." "Each new 911 must slow from 90% of its top speed to 62mph 25 times. Consecutively. Without suffering significant brake fade." 1. So there are two schools of thought on breaking in a motor, apparently Porsche takes the rough road. 2. Some yahoo was given the keys to my car for 90 minutes at unlimited speeds when it had no miles and the crap was beaten out of it and the factory sanctions it. 3. Our cars are place under load to 156.6mph 25 times in a row when they are brand new and the brake pads are not broken in any way I have ever read about. There would be no reason to try and break in your new Porsche when you received, because the darn thing is beat all to heck anyway. This could explain a lot with these engines, would be a neat graph to see trans bearings and IMS failures vs test drivers name.

I guess this can go here..but do aftermarket wheels for a 996 WB also fit to a 997 WB?

In general this question would be better off on its own thread, this my not get much attention on this one.... I think the answer in the vauge sense is YES, but 997's also come with 19" wheels and for those I dont know the fitment. (you said aftermarket) The best thing to do is to post what the potential wheels you are looking to fit onto the 996 WB including width and offsets for front and rear - then you get get a specific answer. I am almost 100% certain the 996 WB will fit the 997 though maybe not the other way around in ALL cases

Really I didn't know that 9 lives.. which buttons do I push on the climate control?? I have an 2001 996 Emerald Green Mica.

I duel row IMS bearing with the internal clip CAN be removed while the engine is in the car.

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.... and all you need is an old tree stump to prop it up!

You will miss your car when it's gone..... and even if you replace it, there will never be one just like it. Live in the moment and be thankful for today

Your rear tires will last a LOT longer if you set the camber to neutral, which is the least they can be set at. "stabbing" the throttle on a tip will immediately shift the transmission to the lowest gear possible for the speed you are traveling. It will hold it there for approx 8 seconds unless other throttle input is applied. The PSM computer does some interesting things on its own volition. I have to refresh my memory on that though.

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BORING

thanks for the technical input.

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Ill try this, What does the book say to set them too? So when I go in and tell them to set it to 0 I can 1/2 act like I know what I am talking about

Kyle, you can set them yourself. PM me.

Chinese headers.......I paid $80. Shiney and looked good though I am far from an expert. Put them on for sound reasons, not performance and they did the trick. A nice gutteral idle and a bit of a "look at me" sound when my foot is in the throttle. What did I do to install? 1) ordered Porsche exhaust gaskets & bolts 2) squirted a half & half mixture of ATF & Acetone on the bolts a week before 3) did #2 again 3 days before 4) #2 again..biggest fear was to break a bolt...did the cat flange bolts, too 5) 13mm with a 3/8 ratchet and some extensions. Used a 1/4 inch w/U-jt connector on the back passenger side bolt 6) GENTLY, did I say GENTLY, loosened all bolts 7) then removed the bolts and the headers 8) replace w/new...used anti-sieze on new bolts 9) Torqued to 19# on manifold bolts, 21# on cat nuts Took me about 4 to 5 hours. I am NO mechanic GL

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...and if you have a convertible, it will lower the top as well. Keep the key twisted after the top is down and the windows come back up. The reverse is true, too. Twist the key to "lock" when the top is down and if you hold it (if the windows are up, they'll go down first), the top will close, and the windows will rise to lock and seal the car.

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And as a result, I have learned that the actual speed of the car is 4km/h SLOWER than what is displayed on the dash. Speedo: 100km/h = Actual: 96km/h I'll have to play with the rest some other time

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SO TRUE. And so annoying

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I never saw a public reply to this....but I found the rear one accidentally while changing a burnt tail light bulb. Its underneath the Left tail light assembly. You'd need to snake a thin wire with a hook between the lens and the body to grab the loop and pull it out. Then, just pull outward towards the left of the car to release the engine cover... Now...anyone find the front one yet? Is it under the headlight?

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It's behind the passenger side wheel well liner. You either take off the front right wheel or turn the wheel so that you can get a screwdriver to pry the plastic snap in screws off so you can create enough room to reach in and feel around for a wire with a loop on the end of it. It's behind the headlight area and is hard to pull to release the lock. Some have used the end of a coat hanger pushed through the loop to create more force. If you ask why didn't Porsche make it easier to locate or to pull it by making the wire longer or located in an easier spot to get at - you defeat the purpose of having security for your luggage area. The cable has been left in the design in case the solenoid goes bad, (Mk2 and up). 02 cars and up can be 'boosted' by a 12V supply attached to one of the points in the fuse box. That procedure is around here somewhere if you do a search. It's also shown on Renntech how to do it as well. Here's a diagram of the part your looking for marked with an arrow.

I suggested using chinese headers on my 911 to my mechanic and you would have thought I called his mother a *****. I swear he almost hung up on me.

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[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif

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A good idea if you ever have to get to the thing is when you're done with it don't put it back in the same place. Route it through the front bumper frame so that you can pull it out through the tow-hook hole. It's a life-saver when you need quick access and you've got a worn frunk latch. Edit: Fun fact, "frunk" is, or at least should be, the scientific name for the front trunk.

What is the lever for under the steering wheel? I have a 99 996 and dont have an owners manual and cant figure out what the lever is for. It looks like a lever you would use to tilt the wheel?

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telescopic steering....

Cool Thanks, mine must be stuck!

Pull down. Needs a little muscle at first because it is a tight snap.

Very interesting factoid I ran accoss check your engine case - see any blue paint? (about the shade of Ford Motor Blue) will be along the sides of the oil pan up towards the heads, faint like overspray, both sides here's what that means - the motor was rejected at the factory and returned "up" the assembly line for rework !!! (reason might be power output at the dyno - or other ?) so thats kind of interesting to me and makes me think that those motors get special attention from a master builder.... they might be better in the end??? take a look and see - I saw my first one Friday dont know what year they began this practice

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Exactly. I drive my C2 Cab on 91 fwy everyday to and from work. At that time I wish my car is tiptronic. But I love its 6 speed anyway.

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Is that true? This is exactly happenned to my 2000 C2 Cab. My friend told me that the passenger side fog light is off, I then checked it and found no bulb in the socket. Installed the bulb but it did not lightup, checked the voltage and zero volt. Swapped the whole lamp module from left to right and right to left; the passenger side fog light still off. I thought the electrical wire is broken somewhere and plan to add jumper wire from the driver side light to the passenger side. Should I do this and do you know why it came from the factory like this? Thanks. Nghia Ho

I traced the wiring and the RH rear fog light is wired up to the connection in the rear passenger footwell area. From that connector to the front light switch there is no wire, unless there is one inside the harness but not connected. At the connector pin 12 is there but the socket 12 is not installed. I ran a wire from the connector up to the ignition switch and now both back fog tail ligts work. Not sure why the Porsche is wired that way, my Volvo has rear fog lights and they both work with the fog lights on. I thought it must be a European regulation, however it may vary from one country to another country, Germany to Sweden?

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I noticed this the day I bought my first 996(99 model). I called the dealer and he told me thats how they are built. Some euro thing. -Manil

True that ^. It's a Euro thing.

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Why can't we see this on prospective spouses? Aren't there special glasses for seeing this?

no comment

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One can only wish...

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I checked the engine of my 2000 C2 and it has an orange or brown paint. Do you know what does this color stands for? My car has new OEM engine in late 2007. Thanks. Nghia Ho

Could swear I heard the engines are only refurbished one time. Maybe this is the paint to identify its a rebuilt engine. You say new engine in 2007 but is it a 2007 997 engine? If not I'd think its a refurbished 996 from an engine case of a previous engine failure. I'mnot even sure if it was 996 or 997 in 2007 and just poking in the dark.

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No, it is not 997 engine. It is 996 engine. I don't know it is new or remanufactured engine. The Porsche dealer receipt just listed the engine type and part number.

Drivers used to have to run to their cars at the start of the 24hr. Le Mans race. This starting method inspired Porsche to locate the ignition key switch to the left of the steering wheel. In a left-hand drive car, this allowed the driver to use his left hand to start the engine, and his right hand to put the transmission into gear, which in turn shaves off a few tenths of a second. How bout that

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True.

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The curator of the Porsche Museum was interviewed about that. He said it was done long before racing...thinking it was Porsche's way to shave a few inches of wiring. For all we know it was his way of just getting the keys out of the way so a long key set wouldn't interfere with shifting (since a number of cars of the period had the key in the middle of the dashboard).

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They only have the left side fog light because in Germany you are only allowed to pass on the left. Thus, the logic there is the marker on the left side helps to indicate where/how to pass. (Of course, passing on the right on the Autobahn or highways is not allowed.)

Since I was born and raised in Europe (Holland) I know a bit about this topic, originally the fog light was a separate unit mounted below the rear bumper on drivers side, later it was incorporated into the actual taillight housing. The reason for having only one is to distinguish the difference between a brake light and a fog light (European cars did not have 3rd brake lights). The reason it's on the drivers side is because this is the most visible locating, in England the fog light is on the right. Manufactures found it was more cost efficient to put the same amount of sockets in both taillight while using the same wiring harness this way they simply installed a dummy bulb on whichever side they do not want active.. On my P. I have blacked-out taillights, in order to compensate for the loss off brightness I replaced the dummy bulb with a real one and wired both fog lights in with the normal nighttime light-sockets, thereby doubling the light output (standard taillight is 2x 5W. the fog light is 21 W.). If your interested to see more on this check out https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-stuff-2.html Cheers, Sid.

In re. speedometer error, both my analog and digital readouts are optimistic by about 5% in the 50-80 mph range per my Garmin GPS. Oh, well. relinuca

In re. speedometer error, both my analog and digital readouts are optimistic by about 5% in the 50-80 mph range per my Garmin GPS. Oh, well. relinuca

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The dealer can correct this. This was a hot topic on P related forums 7-8 years ago. Dealer corrected speedo on wife's Boxster in '03 and as I recall it was near dead on at freeway speeds compared to GPS.

Interesting, Nick. What are the chances I can get my dealer to correct the speedo error on my 2001 986 S? Do you remember if they charged you? Mine seems to be off about 8%, regardless of speed.

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Could also be the overall diameter of your wheels+tires. If you've got either one of those different than stock it will change your speedo read out. Larger= lower reading smaller= higher reading OK, near dead is definitely not the wheel set up... Cheers, Sid.

Well, I called my dealer and they said there's nothing they can do. My wheel and tires are OEM 18s. I've had plenty of bad experiences at this dealer and wouldn't be surprised if I got bad info. Can others on here verify they had a dealer adjust their speedo readout?

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thx cargo, mine is doin that, & i can't remember which one i put it in though: how do i find out which one it is? & will they just go off after i put the correct one in, or do i have to re-set something.

With out having the car on or key in you can get your mileage rading by pressing the odometer button dial thingy.

Without having the key in the ignition, the stock CD-220 or CDR-220 radio will turn on if you press the "on" button on the radio face. It will stay on for 1 hour, then shut off automatically. Also, after removing the key, if you press the radio "on" button within 2 seconds, it will stay on.

I asked my dealer about the spedo when I was in for an alignment and was told that the spedo reads high by design and cannot be adjusted. I was mostly concerned b/c it seemed my odometer was reading slightly higher than the GPS as well, and while it does, it is only fractional (<1% different from GPS). From reading other forums it appears the laws in Germany mandate that a manufacturer must produce a speedometer that reads within 10% (I believe) of actual speed, but that it cannot under any circumstances record speed lower than actual. Porsche decided to err on the side of caution as tire wear etc., will change the speedometer reading fractionally.

It is unbelievable but true. I park in the middle of freaking nowhere and when I return... cars on both sides... and not nice ones either. Any speculation regarding the reason for this?

the cars come with the "a-hole magnet" option turned on, and you hafta have the dealer turn it off????????????????????

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Long before racing? Look back at the history. Porsche built the Type 64 race cars circa 1939 before the first 356 street car was even conceived. Before Porsche was involved in LeMans may be accurate, but back then many races were started in this manner.

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Also, you can flip your parking lights on to get the odometer reading and the time. No key needed.

When parking in tight spaces I put my door window down (a lot easier to get in and out of the car) and when out the car then hold my remote locking button down and the window goes up after a few seconds, same for going back in the car, hold the unlock button down and both door windows go down, then simply put them back up when in the car, or if it doesent work with your remote (possibly only works on european cars?) just use the key in the door method as described earlier. Probably not suitable for soft tops this as you dont want your roof going up and down just to get into/out of your car! lol

The shiny metal loop on your door jamb is actually a beer bottle opener (those Germans think of everything!). It also doubles as a door latch. Saw it over on the 997 Forum. Even has pictures to show how to operate it.

I knew there was a reason for it being so clean and shiny

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How did I NOT know about that one?!?! I'm going to try that out asap.

thats funny!

If your idling is rough, or your throttle body gets dirty, specially those that use Gas with Ethanol, you can turn the ignition switch ON, then OFF, then ON again and Waite for about 1 minute. You will then hear several clicks coming from the engine compartment; the ECU will make the throttle butterfly open and close several times, and possibly shake off some dirt.

^^^ thats awesome!

Wow Awesome!

You all probably already know this one, but here it goes: With the engine off, turn the head lights full on first, then turn key on the ignition on, and headlights will recalibrate by pointing down and then tiltIng back up. Useful when you change weight load in your pcar, like a full gas tank + passenger, or vice-versa (empty tank, and no load).

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Why would you Ever park in a tight space

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Only with Litronics.

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Unfortunatly in the UK we do not have a choice, our home garages and driveways are usually very tight and the same goes for the shopping center car parks and the town car parks, not a lot of room!

In the Netherlands and Germany the highway Police drives 911 Turbo's and there souped up! No kidding!

Didn't know that my 911 was going to be that much fun!

Just got my '01 Cab. When I was opening door at first, the window catches the cab top. After reading this post, I started thinking... When getting into the car, if you hold the door handle up for a 1/2 second, the window will drop and no longer catch the lip of the cab top. I was wondering what to do with the manual and saw the tip about the holder. The previous owner took it off. May have to see about finding one on line. Great post!!! Learning a lot here.

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That holder is rivited on.... You may have to do the same.

PSUBOY posted this on another thread within this forum but I wanted to make certain it was posted here, as well, for future access: I just found a great site that spits out all the options on my car. You just plug in your vin and it pulls the codes. Worked like a charm for me. I thought I would share. http://www.autoatlanta.com/life/vin/vin.php? __________________ psuboy

The center console glove box at least on the 1999 C2 I have is connected to the alarm system. Somebody once said it isn't but after leaving a drink in it while going into a store and setting the alarm I got the beep meanig foul play while arming the system. The box is wired in.

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You may also need to run the windows all the way up and all the way down to reset the one-touch up and down function.

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Run the window up and hold it in the close position for around 3-5 seconds then its set. The sunroof has to be reset also.

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Ah, I thought you had to do both directions (and I neglected to mention holding it the 3-5 seconds, oops). But I've never had to do anything with the sunroof when switching out batteries.

Are the 05 996 engines less likely to suffer RMS/IMS failures?

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Yes. 3.6L are supposed to be less susceptable to IMS failures.

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+1 Brilliant!

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WHAT!!! My P-car has cup holders? Where the hell are they?

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Year? Pictures!

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................. sorry! My P-car is a 2001 Cabriolet. It's a 996 with a factory hard top. Priscilla, my P-car, is Mediterranean Silver. Since I can not find a cup holder, I no longer stop at Starbucks on my way to work. The Starbucks folks are very concerned about my absence and considering a substantial discount to those not having cup holders; ........... they miss me a lot!! Yes, I know but ........................ I'd sure would like to find the "ghost cup holders". BTW, this is a wonderful thread and a wonderful forum. I've already saved thousands by paying close attention to your wonderful contributions. "J.C."

halcon77 I feel your pain! I have to have my Starbucks coffee but I was scared that the slide out holder on my '03 would lead to lots of dripping into my center console. I picked up the item below and it works perfectly. It does encroach on the passenger seat a bit but my size 6 bride (of 20 years!) doesn't complain as long as she can have her large sweet tea from Wendy's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cup-h...Q5fAccessories

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Only some pre-02 996's had cuphoders, they because standard on 02.. and they suck anyways, This thing is great. Coffee is IMPORTANT! http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/

Tiptronic models won't rev past 4K in park or neutral so you can't hear your new Fister exhaust mod, when you first intall it...

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But more susceptable to scored cylinders...

If your battery is dead and your bonnet release won't open (to get to the battery) duh...there is a small round clip on the front bumper, remove the clip and you can release your bonnet.

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Have you ever actually done this yourself? Or is this wisdom by proxy... It sound like you're confusing it with the tow-hook cover. Cause the way to get under the bonnet with (dead battery) is to use the pull-out peg at the fuse box and attach a battery pack lead to that... Ask me how I know

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Really? I'm going to have to try this out. UPDATE: BS detected. Tip owners - Rev it up as high as you desire to hear the sweet roar of the Fisker exhaust. Glad to disprove this URBAN MYTH!!!

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Wowwww hold on to your horses there cowboy Have you had an ecu flash over-ride done on your P.? "cause mine also won't go above 4K stationary revs... Been told it's to protect the engine (non dual-mass flywheel etc.) so good for the engine bad for the stationary sound Anyone else have a tip that can verify?

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What??? The bad news is I JUST bought a 12v 21 watt bulb for the right rear fog light (which is wired but missing a bulb) and the good news is that I don't need it AND don't have to track down a short? I wonder if the New Jersey car inspectors know this is a Porsche thing. Do the folks at Zuffenhausen lie awake at night whipping up ways to drive old Porsche folks (like me) nuts?

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NJ got rid of these inspections.... only mandate is the sniffer.

LOL @ that ^^^ for fun I drove my 996 in front for my brother (who I knew would "comment") with the rear foglight on.... when we stopped he jumped all over me - "There's something really wrong with your lights!" hahahaha - even after explaining it he just shook his head and said I didnt get it, there is something wrong, one side is really bright compaired to the other side

Like Malawi today?

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Like Malawi's new law?

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No, not a myth. Mine too cant rev over 4000rpm when stationary. 2002 C2 tiptronic

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I stand corrected. For some reason I can rev up as high as wanted. I'm 3rd owner and don't have good history as to what mods previous owners had done. I'm not sure about the ecu flash. For clarification, is this revving when the car is in park? That's how I tested mine.

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Yep, when car is in park.

Park or neutral makes no difference on mine, 4K is all you get.

Dude, My 1998/9 996 revs to 7K in N. Not sure about P, though...Is this a 'recent' limitation?

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I have a 2004 996TT cabriolet acquired a year ago. Here are two things I noticed recently; maybe others can confirm: 1. I stored the car over the winter with the battery out and on a tender for 4 months. When I reinstalled the battery, I expected to have to re-enter the radio code into the PCM. Not only did I *not* have to do that, it still had all of my radio stations memorized! But that's not all... Initially the clock was off - pretty sure it read 12:00am initially at first and I spent a couple of minutes with the "computer" trying to see if I could set the time. The next time I started the car the clock was right - was this just a happy coincidence or does this thing have some way to connect to a time-server?! 2. When I first got the car, I learned to creep in and out of driveways, etc. so the bottom of the front spoiler would not scrape. Back then I dutifully kept the front tires at 36psi. This year, after bringing the car out of storage, I left the fronts at 40psi - and not once have I scraped in places where I always used to have to go very slowly. I've noticed no handling degradation at all. Amazing what 4 lbs will do.

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Thanks. I did buy one of those "adaptable cup holders" I no longer have a wife. I had to buy "The Dutchess of Nordstroms" a new Lexus for allowing me to keep my P-cars. Yes divorce is expensive but sometimes worth every thousand dollar bill. My girlfriend, however complains about not being able to fit her Margarita glass in the new cup holder................. go figure.

The Duchess of Nordstroms. LOL! I'm okay with the factory cup holder. It holds a 12 oz coffee nicely and works better than the one that was in my 335. No margaritas in the P-car though. Too sticky if it spills. What I'm most impressed with is how easy these cars are to work on assuming you don't have to drop the engine or change the plugs.

If your airbag warning light comes on when you first buckle up to drive: A: Don't panic and/or call your favorite service provider to come tow your car in B: Your airbags WILL NOT deploy prematurely or unprovoked C: It is most likely the sensor in your or your passenger seat belt connector, costs about $300-500 to replace, but WILL NOT either PREVENT or CAUSE your airbags from operating perfectly normally despite the fault warning light D: May reset itself without any other repairs or fiddling after 40 restarts (I do not recommend sitting in the driveway doing 40 consecutive restarts). Even if your car is a daily driver, it could easily be more than a month of daily use before the 40 starts have been achieved (and hangar queens might take a year or more - so DRIVE your car more often). E: Can be reset easily with the usual computer diagnostic equipment F: Can be "ignored" with a small piece of plastic black electrical tape over the offending light I am a compulsive hypochondriac when it comes to my cars service. I "got over it" on the airbag light after having already replaced both seat belt connectors over the past 12 years and realizing there might be no more "fault" than the fault detection system. My most recent airbag fault did in fact reset itself after 40 starts, the light no longer comes on, and the diagnostic showed the fault occurred but did not detect any actual faults.

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G: Remove the airbag LED from the dash. :-)

Hadn't used the car in about a week. Tried to use key fob: nothing. Tried different fob: nothing. Had to remove my recently-installed beautifully-detailed bumperplug key slot plug. Placed key in and turned it (this was new to me); fob worked. Reviewed page 19, Controls, Instruments of manual and recalled the following fact: "If the vehicle is not started or unlocked...within 5 days, the remote...is switched off." Nice! Started up beautifully of course, and my radio "sound" pre-sets (bass, treble, etc) were all set at zero. Channels retained. Odd.

Greetings, I just purchased a 2002 C4S this week and reading this thread highlighted many things and areas I was not familiar with. Thanks again to all who have contributed to this Forum and made my learning curve less steep. I read the manual and some things were already mentioned there but this is a good read, especially for us newbies to 996 ownership. Sam

'Thundertub' - In my excitement to add my car to my signature I made the mistake . Thanks for the pointers and it was taken in good faith . I'm eager to get this C4S on the road and see what it has hidden underneath the rear end . Thanks for the welcome and I'm sure you'll see me around asking questions, or inquiring about comments made by the experts. Sam

Late to the party but the Rear Fog light thing... it's obvious it's only one side: Option: M465 Rear foglamp, left

My spoiler cover flew off as I accelerated on to the freeway on my '99 C2. I snapped it back on but it still seems loose. Does it need to be screwed on or is it designed to be taken on and off by hand?

Found something new while cleaning it today. If you hit the power button on the PSM, the radio turns on even if the key isn't in the ignition. Hit it again and it turns off. Start/stop the car and the radio still comes on and goes off like normal. Cool!

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LOL.. Love it. I see you have bikes. Same goes with my bikes. I spend 5,000 man hours, modifying it, rebuilding and modifying it with stuff from England , Japan... and who parks next to me way out away from the store... every fricken time... an old P.O.S. P/U Truck with a trailer load of scrap metal, pipes and bars sticking out waiting to knock my million Dollar one of a kind bike over... Just Perfect~ Absolutely Perfect!

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really? wtf.... gonna try this on the Mk1 tomorrow.

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works on the cdr220 too...

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Assuming the fault was corrected, has anyone actually tried the 40 restart trick and did the light go off?

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I tried it Jim and it works great. I didn't have to push in on the key. I simply held the key in either the open or locked position for the top and windows to open and close as I styood outside the car. Great great information. Thanks.

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I changed my oil and filter only last week using a funnel. Never thought to unclip the filler pipe and lift it during this process. Subsequently I got a slight oil spillage. If the funnel had been higher, the oil would have gone down it easier with no spillage. Great little tit bit of information. Thanks

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I drive a 1999 996 C2 and can not find a REAR center compartment in the car. I can find a center lockable compartment between the front seats but no slots used for coins inside the compartment. Am I blind or looking in the wrong place? .

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I too am confused as to why anyone would leave the engine running when refilling the car. Duh?

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As you replace the new battery, four stars come on the radio asking for the 4 numbered radio access code. If you dont know it and you pump in the wrong code 3 times, you have to leave the ingnition AND RADIO switched on for an hour and the radio stars come up again for another 3 tries. You can find your code via your radio serial number. via a site on the internet. I pumped in my serial number and the web site found mine withing seconds but unfortunatly I didnt keep the web site thinking that I would never need it again. I wrote my code inside the front cover of my Porsche owners manual.

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Two pull cables? I found the front trunk pull cable when I removed the front end of the car to clean my radiators and condensors last week. I also found a worn out Police radar scanner which I slung. I threaded the trunk pull cable through a home made slit on one of the air aintakes so now it hangs just out of site but easily reachable should I ever need to use it. When you say two cables, is there one for the engine compartment which I dont know about? If so where as I stand looking in the engine compartment is this second cable? Thanks.

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When I had the front of the car off cleaning my radiators of leaves and cigarette ends I found the loop end wire hanging down freely. I wondered what it was, pulled on it and saw the front latch move. After I figured it was a release cable for the hood I cut a hole in the air scoop and now mine hangs out of site but easily reachable from inside the left scoop (and it works fine). The cable was out of sight somewhere behind the front bumper which I had removed. I wonder if there is a way to have the engine release cable hanging outside in the wheel well without having to remove a rear lamp cover to gain access to it. ummmm food for thought there.

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In my humble opinion I think they park next to your car so they can get a closer look as they drool over the thoughts that one day they may become the proud owner of a 911 Porche.

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I can second that statement being born and lived in the UK for 47 years. Most parking spaces are as tight as a ducks a** and thats water tight.

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You will never have an IMS failure if you drive your car 2000 revs and above at all times. Drive a porsche engine as it was intended to be driven. I believe when molicoddling a porsche engine (low revs wrong gear) the IMS bearing does not get enough oil and eventually starts to wear out. By the way I also believe that only 5% of all 99 to 04 996 sold has this problem and just maybe the drivers of that 5% tried to drive them in a way to conserve gas. If you are getting 17 miles per gallon then you are probably in the right gear at the right time. Drive it as it was meant to be driven. Its a race car dammit.

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Mine doesn't either so I bought a simple plastic double cup holder and slotted it in the half inch gap between the passenger seat and the center console. It doubles as a coin, phone or anything holder and faces towards me. It cost about $10 from Autozone or somewhere. I forget now. When a passenger is in that seat, face it the other way or it slots behind the console facing towards the front of the car at my right elbow. Someone tried to move the seat when the cup holder was down between the passenger seat and the console and this action blew a fuse. I learned of the second postion because of this move. Starbucks here I come yipee

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Keep the IMS stuff out of this thread. Thanks!

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Soon after I got my 1999 C2 I caught the front apron as I drove up my mates driveway. I very quickly solved the problem. I leave the car on the street now. Rather that than drive around on over inflated front tires. 36 psi front and 44 rear with 18 inch wheels.

Lol...it happens to me 80% of the time!!!

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the key does the same to the convertible top as well if yours has one. Careful not to take too much out of the battery showing this feature off to admirers, as I did, and the top stopped when it was halfway up. Battery recharged (no more than 10amp input) and back to normal.

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I believe that if you lock the car it takes less out of the battery when unattended for long periods.

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I selected reverse, set both outside mirrors down to view the back wheels and any close vehicle behind then I held button 3 for a few seconds to set it. Now I use button 3 to reverse and then press button 1 before driving forward again.

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Great info as I got oil drips as I changed my oil 2000 miles back. I should have remembered that fact as i had to move that pipe as I changed my air filter around the same time DUH.. Thanks

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whoops.... SORRY.

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what is the PSM and where is it located?

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It's this annoying blinking red light. I know a road that is guaranteed to activate it if you don't mind a few stone chips.

PSM = Please save me You Tube

Forget about using one of the extra seat memory buttons to tilt your mirrors for backing up... if you have your car in reverse while programming the mirror positions, IT WILL AUTOMATICALLY TILT THE MIRRORS THE NEXT TIME YOU PUT IT IN REVERSE (or release the clutch a little bit if you have a manual)! *note, this has to be set for each key (up to four keys).

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This is suppose to be a map holder, that is why the complete owners manual does not fit.

its a shelf....it can hold thing that belong on a shelf...like books or coffee cups... don't diss the Ferd mobile!!

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I was not trying to diss anyone, if someone took offense, that was not my intention... just trying to put up some useful info. Also, what is the Ferd mobile?

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The Ferd mobile is the four horsemen of the Apocalypse, or some some fluffy bunny farting rainbows, depending on your perspective.

Ladies and Gentlemen, With all due respect for your Constitutional right to free speech, I respectfully request we get this thread back on topic and stay focused. When originally placed as an Admin Sticky, all the general discussion items were removed. The intent of this thread was to be specifically limited to statements about 996 operational trivia that most folks might not have discovered after reading their owners manual. It was not meant to be a discussion thread, nor a questions and answers thread. That is what all the OTHER threads are for on the 996 Forum. Sorry for the rant. I apoligize to those offended by it. But this is not the General Questions thread on which to pose questions and replies. Thank you for your understanding in this matter.

Another thing I accidently found out about the 996 cooling system. If the coolant level drops too much (what too much is I dont know as there was nothing in the header tank when I checked) a red flashing light appears at the 250F mark on the temp gauge. The temp gauge was showing at just over 80F when I noticed it. I was in the process of completly changing or flushing out the old coolant via a long drawn out method of dropping 2 gallons and topping with water until only clear water eventually came from the drain plug. Then I topped off with 3 Gallons of coolant. Job successfully achieved without loosening or collapsing any radiator hoses .

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Exactly. I found that out on a track day. Hammer through a few long corners and the red light starts flashing. Panic mode as I return to the pits. Check the overflow bottle. Yup, coolant IS low. Top up and no problem.

For any fellow Canadians out there that have bought US cars with speedometers in MPH, there is a way to get the digital display to change to KPH. Just turn the clock adjustment **** to the left, and hold for a few seconds and it will change your speed read out and well as the odometer readout to KMs.

1. There is a terminal in the engine bay to jump/charge your battery (see pic below). 2. "A weak battery may be recognized...when the light emitting diode in the key grip no longer flashes..."

True this is because in Europe they see the right illumination as a sign of a fog light. If both illuminated, it could be confused with brake lights.

in Europe the one red illuminated light is known a a fog ight, if both were brightly illuminated, it could be confused with brakes lights

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I agree, I will be cleaning this thread up when I have some time. Thanks! Marc

The 996/997 series are subject to condensation on the outside of the winshield due to a rather stupid design flaw that as of yet Porsche will not admit.

Terminals in the engine bay are handy, but you still have to get the lid open.

On both my 00 C2 and 03 TT the rear fog light is on the drivers side. It could be so Drivers behind you know where you are when YOU pull onto a shoulder due to Heavy fog or rain or snow, etc.

The rear fog is only on one side of the car so other drivers know it's your rear fog and not your brake lights.

Just reposting these so others will easily find them. Common acronyms used on this forum about your 996: AOS Air/Oil Separator CEL Check Engine Light ECM Electronic Control Module IMS Intermediate Shaft Bearing LSD Limited Slip Differential LWFW Light Weight Flywheel MAF Mass Air Flow sensor PPI Pre-Purchase Inspection PSE Porsche Sport Exhaust PSM Porsche Stability Management RMS Rear Main Seal SAI Secondary Air Injector PDK (See the 997 Forum) IIRC - If I recall correctly TIA - Thanks in advance WTB - Want to buy

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An easy job with the 99 models. They have a mechanical engine and hood release which can be seen as the drivers door is unlocked manually via the ignition key. Electrical releases are not always the 'way to go' when shopping for a car. And for the 99 996 owners. The IMS bearing is the more robust double race type and less prone to failure. Thats statement I read straight from Flat6 Innovations. I hate to mention the dreaded IMS problems but thats something I only just discovered about my 996.

OK something I accidentally found out with my 99 cabriolet alarm system. I had the roof down in the garage and the car was locked via the one click fob key. I needed to lean over into the back seats of the car to remove the small seat cushion. So incase I might set the alarm off, I clicked the key fob one time and heard the door unlock and saw the red alarm lights go off on the dash. As I was working on the seat, after just one minutes time I heard the door lock and the alarm re set itself. The car key was on a bench in the garage, not in my pocket so I did not catch the fob button accidentally locking the car again. I checked it again and the same thing happened. The next time I checked, I opened the drivers door and closed it. This action must have cancelled out the alarm and it did not re set itself or lock the doors. This time I had to re lock the car with one click on the fob key button. So if I have the roof down, unlock my car, then decide that I don't want to drive off in it, plus I do not open the drivers door, it will relock itself after exactly one minutes time. I dont know if this happens when I have the roof closed or with the hard top in place or what (if anything) the purpose of this posting is lol. Its just another thing that I didnt know about my 996.

Top up, top down, Coupe or Cabriolet. All '99's work exactly the same way. If you unlock you car but do not open either door within 45 seconds, the alarm system will re-arm and all of the doors will lock again. It also applies to the gas filler lid. If you get out of your car to fill the gas and choose to lock the car while you are filling, but have not opened a door since you reset the locking system, you will hear the click in about 45 seconds and see the locking pin move out as if to lock the gas cap lid. DO NOT try to close the gas cap lid when that pin is out or you could very easily snap it off. Check your owners manual as this is all explained therein.

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Ok Hurdi don't lol too hard - my P-tec h guy at Peoria Porsche told me that 3.4 have the double race from 00-01. Then I read somewhere that you can tell by engine e number - which said mine doesn't. But to add my capt obvious statement here - I realized that I can keep the spoiler deployed all the time buy using the toggle switch at the bottom left of the driver side.

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Yes you can, but why would you want to do that?

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Cause she looks good

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It's especially handy at the track to keep it deployed.

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Is there a way to fix this? Would love to not have to turn the a/c off every time I get in the car.

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I think that's a good time to keep it deployed.

After hearing all sorts of conflicting information regarding failure rates I carefully inspected the oil filter cartridge in my 2001 996 C2. I found 4-5 very small silver flakes of metal. My car ran great and had no unusual noises at 75K miles. I decided to change the bearing anyway. According to my Porsche Dealer, I was 2-3 trips to redline away from complete failure. There were no warning signs other than the flakes of metal. Incredibly, the car drives better with the LN Engineering bearing - I can only guess that the old bearing was causing a subtle vibration in the engine that is now gone. I now own a $ 20K paperweight that only cost me $ 3K. If you plan to keep your 996, this is a must do repair - or put aside $20K because you are going to need it. Im not happy about the $3K and i think Porsche failed badly in dealing with this design flaw but I love my 996 all over again. If you would like to see pics of a bearing about to fail let me know and I will send them.

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Guys stop messing with the light. In Europe cars are required to have a "single" rear fog light on the left side of the car only and only up so high. Two fog lights would not be recognized as such and would therefore defeat the purpose. Not to mention would not meet TUV standards or pass safety inspection. Sorry to chime in so late but I'm new to the forum.

[ If you would like to see pics of a bearing about to fail let me know and I will send them.[/QUOTE] i just pm'd you. thanks.

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same on the 99 convertibles. Nice on a red hot day to open the top before getting inside the car.

I call this "Growing a Wart." It happens no matter how far away you park. Also happens with my BMW 550i daily driver. Maybe the offending parties expect a halo effect.

Hopefully, I am in the right forum thread. I just bought a 2002 996 and have a question about the gas tank and gas gauge. The book says the gas tank volume is 16.9 gallons. If I drive until the miles to empty goes to ~10 miles left (implying a bit under 1/2 left in the tank) and completely refill the tank, I end up putting in ~14 gallons. Does this mean, 1) my gauge/display isn't working correctly (if not, what do I do about it?), 2) that EMPTY really means there is as much as 2.9 gallons still left in the tank, or 3) something else? I'm still getting used to the 996. My previous car was a 1980 911SC with a 21 gallon tank that I could go 400 miles before refueling (500 on long trips). The 996 seems to give me a 300 mile range (obeying the fuel gauge/display) for around town driving. No long trips yet, so I don't know what range I could get on a cross-country drive. I do plan to drive from San Diego to Ohio at some point, so this question isn't just academic. Any comments would be appreciated.

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I know this is an old thread, and I searched it on google with no luck 9it actually sent me to this thread) but is this true for all 2000 models? if so, what do I ask for when I call the dealer and is there a post somewhere to install it? nice tip! thank you, I'm new to this car for sure! tom

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is this true on a 2000 cabrio?

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Shoot! my apologies! I just did exactly that in this thread, and I do not see a ay to delete my two posts there sorry about that! tom

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You can open the drivers door using your key and pull the lever if you have a pre-2000 996. For later cars with electronic locks for the frunk and engine bay, there is a connector in the fusebox (drivers side footwell) where you can attach the positive terminal of a battery or startbooster. The negative terminal is most easily attached to the latch in the door frame. Power here allows you to unlock the engine bay and get access to the terminals. Note that a 996 should always be jumpstarted from the terminals in the back, never from the battery itself or the terminals in the fusebox.

Just noticed this the other day after almost a year of ownership: You can turn on the foglights without the headlights if you pull out the switch when it's in the parking light position. Every other car I've had with factory fogs only allowed the fogs to be turned on when the headlights were on.

Porsche was a bit undecided when making the car. Some dash-buttons require you to press the same place again to turn features off (TC for instance) while others require you to push the other side of the switch, where the indicator light is (rear window heater for instance). Weird.

If you pull off the side triangular carpet piece of the centre consul next to the drivers calf, hanging inside is a 4 prong plug which can be used for other added electrical devices. I hard wired my cobra radar into it which now comes on as the ignition is switched on so not forgetting to plug the radar in risking a speeding ticket. There is another useful part of this plug which is NOT activated via the ignition which could be used for music and the likes. This plug can be reached either from the side of the consul or from the front near the gear stick.

12" wide rims will rub on factory suspension parts and require you to buy expensive but cool adjustable parts. The mark 1 aero kit rear wing "flying taco" was made in France. Mark 1 aero kit front splitters are a hard plastic (abs) that chip and look like crap before breaking off. They can be replaced with a stupid expensive Porsche Motorports splitters that is bigger and more durable (ask me how I know). Leaving the oil fill cap off will get you black flagged at any DE. Our cars love leaded 110 octane race fuel. Muffler bypass pipes make them unbearably loud but super cool (and faster). You can relocate the window switches to the dash when you rip out your center console.

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Not on the widebody cars! Good idea! I hadn't thought of that as a use for the extra slots on there.

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Not having read all replies (so apologies if it has been replied to earlier), I think that all speedometers do in fact show around 8-10% less on purpose so the car manufacturers can be sued if you should get a speeding ticket. My 996 C4S had it's MOT done one week ago (MFK here in Switzerland) and the shown speed of 60km/h on the dash board was in-fact 55km/h in real life.

Hi, New member here (from Sweden). I have two "good to know": 1. The backseats are foldeble (at least on my C4S. The guy I bought my car from had no idea of this and looked quite surprised as I flipped them down). 2. To activate the headlamp washers, push the whindshild-flush-lever forward (I had no idear of this until not long ago). This is of course basic information, if you have read the instructionbook, but maybe it will be of some help to someone...

1) Foldable on my C2 as well. 2) Yeah, I thought they were operated simultaneously as the windshield washer when the lights were on, had to fiddle a bit before I got that.

That explains what the push action on the wiper arm is for: I was thinking it would be perfect for the rear wipe, rather than using a button on the dash...

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Interesting, since I cannot think of a single Porsche built since 1950 with rear seats that DID NOT have folding seat backs in the rear. Remember that one of Ferry Porsches initial design rules was that every road Porsche must have room for luggage and two sets of (traveling) golf bags. (And if some careless reader pipes up with 914 or 986 I remind you that they don't have back seats. Oh, and every race car built under FIA regulations had to have a passenger seat AND luggage space AND a spare tire. Yes, even the legendary 917 - look at the pictures.).

Plus you'll find mystery dings that seemingly magically appear..

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love it! LOL!

That small dot that appears either on the top or bottom left corner of your clock indicates am/pm

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Ah YES, but which is AM and which is PM

Top is AM bottom is PM. duhhhh LOL sorry couldnt help myself ^^^^^^

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Definitely.

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I just did it on my 2002 cab and it worked.

My A/C blows hot in auto. with outside temps in the 70s. Is there a vent function for fresh air? 2002 996 Cab

I just read every post in this (things you didn't know) Discussion . There has to be something new to add to the list and I will continue to check back I also hope that some cool cat Editorialize's this and turns it into a "996 Trivia" sticky

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I know it's irritating not knowing and I would have asked the same question (except we don't really use am/pm in Europe), BUT in all fairness does it matter? One would know if's a.m. or p.m. anyway right

What if you sleep in your car and it gets stolen while youre in it and gets locked in a shipping container in total darkness that feature will definetly come in handy.......

There is a manual release cable for the fuel tank cover between the passenger door jam and the fender above the top hinge...cought my eye this weekend while washing

This has been repeated many times and I knew it already, but for some reason it cost me $200 to learn yet again. Had not driven my car in a few days; would not turn over. Charged battery, tried to turn over, fail. Trickle charged....no start (no click, no nothing). Thought it was the clutch release sensor; was not. Called shop, had it towed. On arrival the shop inserted key, turned one way, turned the other way, turned one way, and finally turned the other way...and over-rode the electronic lock out that we all know kicks in when the car isn't used for a period of time. I had tried this, but not as many times as I was supposed to, and so I paid my tow fee to learn how to do it properly. The key (pun) is literally when the key fob doesn't light, the electronics have been decoupled (or something like that).

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Is that the actual sequence? Left, right, left, right?

Wht is difference between Mk1 and Mk2 cars?

Awesome forum! I just got my 2003 C4 Cabrio a couple weeks ago and have 2 "did you know?" items: 1. If you have a kid (we have a 6 year old), you can get a cool booster seat from Walmart for only $12 that fits perfectly in the back (almost like Porsche designed it!). And it comes in "Hot Rod Flame" colors, so it totally matches... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Harmony-Ju...t-Rod/16939672 2. It will only take one sunny day on the road till someone in a new Camaro will try to race you... Thanks for the great tips!

Car seat pics for those who've requested them...

Floor Mats: This seems silly, but I just learned today that the velcro plastic floor mat holders are screwed in. I thought they were just pushed into the holes and (obviously), kept popping out. I still can't figure out how to raise and lower the back windows or the spoiler by myself. I have a 2002 C2 Cab. -DrC

I have a 2002 C4 Cab. 1. With the top open, push and hold your finger into the hole where the top locks in and it will bypass the safty mechanism that is stopping you from using the rear windows. 2. There is a switch for this right below the fuse panel.

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Sweet! I found the spoiler switch. TYVM I'm still not sure what you mean by "the hole where the top locks in." -DrC

Good info

You might not think so but It does take less from the car battery if you lock your car (even in your garage) than it does to leave it unlocked.

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And if you leave the key in the ignition, even with it turned off, your battery will be dead flat in about a week.

Yeah, accessories only disconnects when the key is physically removed from the lock. But if you reinsert it, it won't enable accessories again before the ignition has been on.

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On my 99 it self locks after 5 days. I have to unlock manually via the drivers door because the button on the key does not work after 5 days. Then it's back to normal. No left right left right bull ****. But then again other years may be different.

The 996 was Porsche's first attempt at a bullet proof car, literally. (Reference my post elsewhere in the forum for link to the video)

I saw the following posted on another form; the 996 was featured in the last "Gone in 60 Seconds" movie. It was code named "Tina". But, it was actually a '78 re-bodied as a 996 with the intention of using it as a stunt car. It later sold for $35k. This might have been posted elsewhere but hasn't been posted here and I believe it qualifies as legit 996 "things you didn't know" material. https://www.facebook.com/video/video...50539249901832

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Toe Kills tires, not Camber. Don't have a 996 yet (in here learning) but my ex-track DD (220K) 95 M3 runs -2.6F / -1.5R and I get 40K plus with my tires. My Z06 runs -1.5F / -1.3R and same story, both run minimal (0) toe...

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You'll find that camber will wear out the inside tread faster than the outside tread. I've had a few tires wear down to the cords on the inside but look great on the outside. I don't think this is peculiar to the 996, but they will eat rear tires faster than your BMW.

Maybe they get a toe change through the suspension travel. (not unheard of) I have 220K on my M3, have owned is since 97K, have put 3 sets of tires on. I auto-x a little, have fun with it every day. Had a toe issue up front and it did kill tires, got it fixed and no more issues. Peeps always assume Camber does it, but its quite minimal, the tire flexes. Toe "scrubs" tires, thats what kills the inside. I would think with wide meats on the back of a 996, it wouldn't need much camber. Thats how my Z06 is, much less than the Bimmer. (BMW max 17/40/255, Z06 18/35/295)

read this some where, nice quote..."the 1999 996 and the boxster are pretty much identical from the front seats forward... but all that really matters is what is from the front seats backwards" .

If you were one of the few that ordered PSM1, the background color of the screens matches the interior color. In my case the screen is Savannah Beige on my 2000 C4 Cab.

Only on the Mk 1 (1998 to 2001) The rear spoiler is provided with a spoiler system. Every engine start up, the rear spoiler warning light will come on the dash. Directly under the speedo and rev counter. The system checks itself as the car moves up to 4mph and if the spoiler is going to work correctly (deploy at 75mpg and retract at 37mph), the light then goes out and STAYS out. That is our only indication that the spoiler is working correctly as we cannot see the spoiler when driving. If it is not going to work properly then the light will stay ON. If during a deployment at 75mph it does not complete the movement within 15 seconds, the spoiler motor will cut out to save damage, plus the warning light will come back on the dash to indicate a fault . The Mark 1 also has the manual racker switch function by the left leg. One push on the top of the rocker to deploy. Push and hold the lower part of the rocker to retract or part retract the spoiler

Just so ya know.

If you overlap the brake and the throttle while driving (both at the same time), the ECU cuts fuel (or closes the throttle, I can't tell) after 1 second.

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That's it!! Thanks for solving that mystery. My spoiler has been replaced with an aero kit by a previous owner, but the light still comes on and goes off. (I guess it's wired as if the spoiler works even though it isn't there any more.)

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Its the wiring harness, its different on the fixed wing.

Depends, my '02 Turbo has an Aero Kit, but no warning light in the dash.

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Isnt the 996 TT Aero Kit a fixed wing? Fixed wing has a wiring harness that bypasses the limit switch of the speed sense wing.

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Fixed wing. But on mine at least, the dash light does come on - not just for the usual dash light test when you turn the key, it stays on until you start moving. Just like Hurdigurdiman described for a working movable wing. So the wiring somehow fakes out the system check so that it thinks it works, rather than bypassing the check altogether which is what I would have expected. Anyway, up until today I thought there was something wrong, now I know it's working as designed.

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Yes, the Aerokit 996 GT3s and Turbos have a fixed rear wing. But as whiteryder explained, on his Aero Kit equipped car the light comes on and goes out when he pulls away. On mine the light never comes on. Guess there are differences between cars delivered from Porsche with aero kit and those converted. Come to think of it, my Aero Kit equipped Carrera didn't have the light either, and the kit was factory fitted on that one as well. Pics are always fun, pics in the snow a bit different, so here goes: Carrera: Turbo:

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This could be a very good explanation for an "event" on the track this summer. A couple of times during braking and back on the throttle, the car was "dead". One time, the car wouldn't run past idle and eventually quit. But, re-started fine. Scared-the-poop-out-of-me. Turns out that my feet are too fat for the combo of pedals (rennline pedals), and my foot overlaps the brake and throttle quite often. The other explanation for the event was an intermittent bad signal from the MAF that put the engine into a sort of limp-mode. Can't wait for the 2014 track season...

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Most tuners can get rid of this by turning on "brake boosting".

I have an 03 C2 Cab. Yesterday, I went to close the cupholder and it wouldn't fully retract into the slot. After a little bit of wrangling. I got it to pop back in. I pulled it out again and it was still catching, BUT, when I pulled on it I actually discovered there are 2 cupholders! Never knew that!

There's a small arrow on the recessed part on the tip of the cupholder to indicate that it's pullable

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My mind has been blown!

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Anyone have a good picture or clear explanation as to where exactly these lubrication holes are located? When raising mine manually while parked it groans quite a bit. Of course, underway you can't hear it.

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This light does double duty in addition to the spoiler up/down indication - it also acts as an engine cover not latched or closed properly. The light coming on for a few seconds is the system check. If the engine cover were not latched properly the light would come on and stay on after you begin to drive. I found this out after upgrading to a GT3 wing and buying the proper wiring harness so that I didn't have the spoiler light coming on and off every time my speed varied on the highway. Then I checked the cars manual...

My spoiler indication light never lights up, not even when the ignition is turned on. I have a seperate lamp that indicates that the frunk or engine cover is open.

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I have read that revving an engine with no load is a VERY bad thing to do because it is designed to work under load

http://p928.narod.ru/porsches.com/996.htm

http://achat-occasion.automobile.fr/...347199bf26b158

Fact: People in other cars, especially guys in minivans, will avert their eyes when you go by.

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Fact.... Guys in huge dodge trucks act like you banged their gf

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Or more correctly "like their girlfriend wants to bang you "

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Holy. Crap.

I found this posted by a guy named Notasix, on another Porsche forum site, He says: Could this be true? I might get my brains blown out just by starting the car? He also says: I find it odd that they do this work blindfolded. I wonder what they would charge if they took the blindfolds off? Well, that's my intro post here.

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This is the "Things you didnt know about your 996" thread

I just learned today, when I lock my car, it locks the gas cap cover.....

Trickle charger in cigarette lighter: I use a C-Tech in the cigarette lighter. There is a grove on the passenger side door and small gap in the rubber door seal for the thin wire to be closed in the door without crimping. This allows you to have the trickle device outside and attached to the extension cord while the interior of the car is closed tight. I'm looking for the technique for making sure the wire is aligned correctly while shutting the door. Is it just tape? Learned this from my buddy with a 997.

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The wing up/down light also does double duty in that it is also the engine lid 'open' warning light to indicate that it isn't latched properly. So if the light comes on and stays on even as you drive down the street - this is the warning the lid isn't latched. I found this out even after I changed the wiring harness for the proper one for a fixed wing when I changed from the OEM lid/wing to a fixed wing. The OEM harness disabled the upper third brake light (after I installed the fixed wing) and the wing up/down light would come on all the time as it received data from the speedo - sort of a ghost light. So I bought the GT2 harness for a fixed wing and it solved all of the issues except for I was puzzled by the light coming on at start up and not going off until I moved. From that point is was fine. So I asked a tech at a dealer if I had the wrong harness and he told me I had the right part - the design is that the light comes on as a 'system test' to indicate the lamp is OK and then *if* it stays on after a few seconds after the car begins to move - the lid isn't latched.

The fuel cooler in the engine bay uses the air conditioning system to keep the fuel temperature at an acceptable level on hot days.

Factory tire pressure info is on lid of gas tank and not door jamb.

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Hmm, not true on my car ('01 C4). Maybe this is a 996.2 feature?

Tire pressure was on the inside of the fuel filler lid on both my '98 ROW 996 Carrera and my '02 ROW 996 Turbo. Parhaps tire pressure on the door jamb is a US thing?

The alarm lets you know with the horn, if you have any of the doors not closed and even the glove compartment or the centre console compartment if they are not closed.

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I agree. One beep from the horn on locking the car says that something is still not fully closed. Don't forget the engine lid. 2 flashes from the front and rear markers PLUS 'silence' says the alarm is fully set.

I have a MY 2000. When I lock with the key fob, I get 2 flashes, then a beep. The light on the dash blinks after several seconds. Wondering if all is OK? I sat in car, turned it off and set the alarm. When I opened the door, the alarm went off. So it appears all is OK? Wondering if the beep was programmed separately, as it does not appear to indicate a problem with the alarm system. When the dealer did the 30K mile, they did not say anything about the alarm. I assume it is OK.

The beep means something's not closed..... Usually the center console lid.

If you unlock and open and close the trunk, the car re-locks itself completely soon after. This is why it is not a good idea to forget you put your keys down in there while hunting for your swimming trunks... Leaving the key in the ignition then getting out of the car and closing the drivers door will see the car autolock itself after a few minutes. This is why it is not a good idea to leave your 2 year old sitting in there on a hot day, with the key still in the ignition while you get out to talk to a friend ... (and 2 year olds have a hard time understanding your miming from outside that you want them to pull that door pull you had spent months reminding them never to touch!). It is usually only the second road rescue guy that can get you back in to your car once you've locked your keys inside. Save time by asking the rescue organization to send that second guy out first! The dealer I took it to after that above 'thinks' they may now have reprogrammed the car not to autolock. The default programming may vary by country.

This is an awesome thread. I learned so much. Thank you!

Does anyone know what this is? See attached pic. Soft rubber oval gasket that broke. I found this on my floorboard next to my gas pedal in my 2002 Carrera, manual trans. Not sure if it actually came from my car or stuck to my bottom of my shoe from a parking lot. I use the telescope steering wheel a lot and broke seal indicates it could of drop down somewhere from underneath dash. Pls. help. Thanks,

Armor All Cleaning Wipes (NOT glass wipes or protectant wipes) are the only thing I've found that will take oil/dirt stains off the yellow oil filler cap. Hit the cap with a couple of those Armor All wipes, and it looks like new.

Being a brand new owner of an 04 CS2 I am thoroughly enjoying this thread!

Having just watched my 1999 996 911 get backed off the truck from the dealer in Daytona Beach, I know more from this thread than I did scanning the manual. I owe you all a beer.

probably stating the obvious, but today I noticed the Porsche logo/sticker in the middle of the rear window not visible from the exterior, but a gentle reminder that you're right where you should be in life edit; visible from the exterior, but my 40th AE has tinted windows

I didn't see it here yet so I apologize if it's already been covered at some point. Unless you're European or have visited Europe, some may not know about the Euro parking light feature. Due to narrow and dark streets in a lot of areas in Europe, some cars over there allow you to either keep your left or right parking light on when parallel parked on the street so people can see you and avoid hitting you. Even our US cars have this feature which I discovered last year accidentally. You can just pull up on the headlight switch and turn it all the way left IIRC. You can turn it one click back to right to vary whether you want the left side on or right side on depending on which side of the street you parallel park on. This will stay on even with the keys out. Although this is mainly a Euro thing, I can definitely see it being helpful in some areas here too. Just be prepared for your hick friends or relatives to say your car is broken, just like when some people see European rear fogs on some cars. LOL. Edit: verified it's the headlight switch

It's the headlight switch at least in '03 cars, here's a screenshot from owner manual

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You mean something like this???? It just happened to me today!!!

I've had this happen with my 996 (40th anniversary) many times, but didn't take any pics. However, my Panny Turbo isn't immune, either. Recently was at Lowe's and absolutely NO ONE was anywhere near where I parked. Twenty minutes later, I find this. Really?

^^^^ be glad he leaft a good 2ft a space next to your car. When i cant find a spot thats empty on both sides i try to park next to more expensive or newer cars so atleast the owners are more careful not to damage their car before they put a ding on yours.

Hey what kind of seats are those? they are an awesome upgrade but still look like they belong! would love to know for my '04 targa

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LOL...thanks. By the way, it looks like your C4S does well in the snow. I live in Evergreen, CO at about 8,000'. What tire/wheel combination do you use in the winter? Thanks, James

Not sure why I never noticed this before, by the 99-01 has a higher positioning of the rear badge the 2002 + 996. 1999

2002...guess that's why it's faster..

Woops dp

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I had noticed this but didnt know it was mk1 v mk2...just thought it was people replacing the badge in a different location after ripping the top of the "C" of when washing it

Today while cleaning the engine lid fan I noticed that there is a light down there! Mine was burned out, so I grabbed an LED light from NAPA...and wow! Now every time I open the engine lid it is shining bright!

http://press.porsche.com/archive/pro...ra_Release.pdf

Probably been covered...but...after taking the airbag nanny warning off (on the mirror side,) I looked at the other side and see it's a 993 p/n...thought that was cool.... 993.701.422.02

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Yes it is.

Went for a ride today...still smiling!

Just noticed that the top of the seatbelts are adjustable. Push the button to lower / raise. They are on slider tracks.

I didn't know the rev limiter was set at 7,400 rpms, but it is !

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That's not a rev limiter, it's an aural shift indicator!

In my 04 Targa, I found out that if you apply pressure to the gas pedal the car goes really fast. Same thing happens in my 986 S, just not as fast Also if you push hard on the brake pedal the car stops really fast

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Rear transmission bump between seats doubles as a nice pillow for long drive with the little ones.

If you put the key in the drivers door, and turn to the lock position, and hold it there, it will close the windows and sunroof. That'sa nice !

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For giggles, try it the other way with the car locked and see what happens. On a targa it even opens/closes the targa roof.

I just read through close to 400 of the most amazing facts, and some banter , and realized I have one that hasn't been mentioned. Some 996's are prone to a "2nd-gear pop-out issue". This is a $200 fix and can be done with the engine still in the car. When shifting into the 2nd gear the shifter will sometimes feel like it seats into the gear but as soon as you release the clutch and give it some gas the shifter will pop-out. If you hold your hand on the shifter (like many of us do) this will cause a grinding sound. DO NOT force this into gear. Hopefully you haven't damaged the gear itself as this detent replacement will not correct an already problematic issue. This site gives insight and the part that is needed to buy on eBay and how to do it. My 99 996 has experienced this and I ordered the part for it yesterday. I'll be home from my deployment in a couple of weeks and I'll be switching this out and correcting my issue. http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-TRAN...-/151307607531 Big shout out to my local PCA members for showing me this!

For the others out there who turn their own wrenches- disconnecting a door air bag (even if you reconnect and have the key out the whole time) will trip the airbag warning light. I had mine reset by the dealer, not sure if other methods will work. Oil changes can be done without lifting the car as long as you have a shallow-ish drain container. For Cabriolet owners: there's a special red-handled, very long allen wrench tucked away for EMERGENCY top raising (via the assembly behind the rear seat wall cover)... this WILL throw off all the micro switch adjustment and require a lengthy dealer visit. Decent rear tires will probably be rated under 15,000 miles, and if you're driving it right, that's optimistic. This is an excellent thread, thank you to all contributors. Here's my 2000 C2 I bought last year. porsche front.jpg

With a Tiptronic in auto mode, if you blip the throttle, it will downshift to the lowest gear that is safe for your current speed

I've had my 996 for 9 months and never realized that you can pull on the cup holder and a spot for a second cup appears. I grinned a bit when I learned this yesterday.

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My 5 year old has discovered the middle pillow already, and thanks to @levdeb for the Harmony seat link. I've learned so much from this post, mostly to RTFM.

First, Toronto is right. My car is a car magnet in a parking lot. I park between empty spots all the time and come back only to find someone parking right next to me. Drives me nuts. Second, the air/oil separator on 996s is not made for the G forces created on the track by using track tires. Funny, I thought Porsche's were built for this kind of driving. That said, we replaced mine with a AOS meant for a GT3, much bigger and more expensive, but it works.

After refueling in a 996, the electronic oil level gauge comes on, but you can see the level anytime by inserting key in ignition, and turning it to the second setting where all the warning lights come to life, and wait till the count down timer reaches 0 on the right hand display where you usually see the oil level indicator ( anywhere from 5 seconds if car has been sitting, to an hour if you just came from a hot lap around the track). A second hint, In a locked 996 with an aero kit, and a dead battery, the dealer wanted me to tow car to him, since reaching the cable to unlock either front or back hoods, was next to impossible. I ended up using a $10 gizmo that charges battery through the cigarette lighter, and put enough charge to activate the central lock, and unlock the hood.

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don't people read the owners manual???

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You will be surprised & dismayed imho. Does anyone know the purpose of the oval cover in the dashboard to the left of the headlight switch ? ( I saw three or four wires clip to the inside, when I took apart the driver side vent in the process of doing diagnostics on the switch)

Just counting the normally aspirated 996s (and also not counting the GT2 or GT3s) there were roughly 144,069 996s made from 1999 through 2004. If one decides that the number of IMS failures reported on Rennlist (54) represent only one hundredth of the true number that would mean 5400 engines suffered IMS failure. Divided by the production of 144,069...that means there has been a 4% failure rate. At this time I have not heard of 5,400 failure being reported. Or even half that number...which would be a 2% failure rate. And if we multiplied the 54 failures reported here by just 20...or 1080 failures...the failure rate would 3/4 of 1% or 0.0075. Is there any statistical data that gives hard numbers of IMS failure beyond the 54 recorded failures here on this poll?

To me 10% is laughable (way too high) like you said there are 54 reported failures. That implies we only have 540 Rennlist 996 owners here (as a very first order approximation). Also, check your local PCA club members. Do you see one engine failure for every 10 996 owners?

You probably didn't know that when you do your first oil change on your 996 and cut the oil filter open that you will find small specs of non-ferrous material. You will freak out, buy a microscope to look at it closer, post it on this forum, and then determine that this is normal. STOP READING THE FORUM and enjoy the car!!! ;-)

In researching the iPhone aux cable, I found that you need to hold the TP key down for ~8 seconds and then select "AUX" to have it appear in the selection. I couldn't find any reference to the "AUX" procedure in the manual.I'm wondering what other secret settings this radio has. Anyone know of any more undocumented gems?

When driving your 996, if you have to visit somebody in the hospital, you can get away with parking out front where the spots are marked "Doctors Only", even if you're not really a doctor - works every time!

Ok I have read through this entire thread and have to admit there are some pretty neat things about the car. But with as many places that the Spoiler manual switch could be, my car DOES NOT have this switch anywhere. Not that is is a world crisis but dang it.. So my contribution is not all cars have a switch to manually raise the rear spoiler.

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There should be a switch by the fuse panel? It's not labelied

WOOT! Found the switch to raise and lower the spoiler. Pretty sure I would have gone through the life without knowing what that un-marked little rectangle thing on the fuse panel was for.

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all ya got to do is read it!

Well That would be great but somewhere in the cars life the DAPO lost the owners manual. I have made several attempts in the past 2 weeks to find one on line. These must be very year specific because the ones I found in PDF form have this switch all over the place.

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Should not matter much between model years for the basic stuff within a series, IE 996, 997, etc. What year is your car? PM me, I may be able to help you with a PDF

Just finished my first year of 996 ownership. Bought an '02 C2, stick, all stock, with 39k miles. Now, 14000 miles later, I would like to share some random thoughts . . Went through a set of rear tires, two oil changes and a battery. Thanks to this forum, I've gotten a print-out of the original option list (which does not match the frunk sticker nor the inside of the manual but does match the car itself), and also my radio code - both for FREE! How awesome is that? Not to mention all the other tips and suggestions that are helpful. Thanks!, everybody! Seems like if you get a good 996 they are really good, but if you get a bad one, they are really bad - and the odds are at least 90% in my favor that I got a good one. Does that sound about right? What about the 98 octane issue? I guess that's what the car calls for, but unless I buy racing fuel, I am maxed out at 93. Anybody got any thoughts?

Where does it call for 98?

I use and additive from BND that not only raises the octane but coats the upper cylinders with something that helps with cylinder wear. I use it in my V8 bikes and I know some FERRARI guys that use it also. It can't hurt to TRY to keep the cylinders from scoring or going oval.

Oh yes, it says 98 in the manual, 98 RON, not 98 octane. I guess that's not the same. Does anybody else put an additive in with the gas?

No additive here, I run the Chevron/Texaco Supreme 93 with Techron.

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Oh god, I hope this does not turn into a gas thread....

No gas threads, no oil threads, no IMS threads, no how much is it worth threads, you got to tread lightly over here.

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Actually it is so the two bright fog lights don't look like brake lights.

94 Octane AKI (US / Canada) = 98 RON. If you are 1-2 octane numbers below the gates of hell will open.

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Lmao, no kidding, last year (was 23) at the time, my mom was at UofM er in Ann arbor, I've never been and couldn't find a spot for the life of me...I go up to valet and the guy says Doctor! You on call, first time here? Go park over there, the Dr/essential employee garage. I laughed and said no I'm scared of needles and blood, just checking on my mom.

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Yeah, WHAT IF that very Dr. is there to Perform an Emergency Procedure on YOUR Child, NOT so Funny then is it! Hell, WHY Not just park in a Handicap Zone IDIOT! You HAVE to be a KID, IF you're NOT then that's just SAD!

After wondering if there was something wrong with my new key, (old key remote didn't work and had the dealer replace it.) I did some googling and found out that there is a 3 second delay for the trunk release. (I didn't find anything on here about it.)

On my 99 996 cab, the handbrake does NOT have to be on if you are operating the convertible top from the drivers door. It DOES have to be on if you are operating the convertible top from the dash. Porsche in their wisdom figured you were unlikely to be driving the car when standing next to the drivers door outside the car. The hand brake has to be engaged when operating the top from the dash as a safety feature. When the car is moving, the top cannot be operated as the hand brake is then disengaged.

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Yep, the natives can get very restless here if you behave like owning one of these cars is anything less than some kind of religious experience. Mine lost an engine in 2006 but I'm assured that "it's not as common as you think" and I'm encouraged not to talk about it, which isn't at all reassuring when you're the guy holding the checkbook.

I just purchased a 2003 and have a couple of questions about the controls. I have a switch that looks like an exhaust control. Is this what it is? How does it work? Also, I don't have a switch to raise/lower the spoiler. It works on the highway Am I missing something? Thanks!

You do in fact have a raise/lower spoiler switch. It's near your left ankle on the panel that covers the fuse box.

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Did you own a Prius before this?

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I guess that would have been a lil' harder to get away with parking in the Dr.'s parking spots wouldn't it?

Yesterday I learned on my 99 with a cable system for the front and rear hood releases, that if the engine cover is not latched, you can't move either of the releases, they are mechanically locked out. I determined this by locking the car and hearing the horn honk signifying that something is not latched. I could not figure out what it was, tried popping the frunk and the engine cover, both locked out. Went back and checked the engine cover, it appeared fully closed and I had driven it for about 4 miles, but it was not. Lifted it open and closed it, then the frunk and engine latch were mechanically unlocked at the driver's seat. Who would of thought that? How does this thing work?

E=JayG;11856759]don't people read the owners manual???[/QUOTE] LOL! I know, after looking at some of these threads it makes you scratch your head but i KNOW i was the Same Excited way when i first got mine!

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I'm still working my way through this whole thread (about halfway through), but quoting the above in case anyone missed it. This trick works, my car's idle was a bit rough, did the above trick, and it seems to be better. Thanks JDSStudios!

I have not seen this noted, though I have seen several comments about rear tires wearing out at 15,000 miles. This is because the factory set camber is quite aggressive. I suppose this makes for great response when turning aggressively under throttle...... I wouldn't know as I rarely have driven my 2000 C4 cab that way. I do know this. If you set the camber to neutral for the rear tires you will double your tire mileage. My C4 now has 135,000 miles on her and I have enjoyed every single mile. And she handles just fine for me....... flame suit on.

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/960x960/birdwire_0899348025e5b0f482e1bf646b858af4228e8c91.jpg

Can you put the top up on a 996 cabrio carerra 2 with the windstop installed (folded down position ) or do you need to remove the windstop completely? Has anyone ever had a convertible top cut/nicked by putting up the top with a folded wind stop in place. Please advise. Thanks A11

Up or down, the top clears the wnd deflector. No problems.

I discovered that the side markers don't flash when turn signals are on. I was trying to figure out how I screwed up the replacement with clear ones. No screwup. It just doesn't do what any of our other German cars (BMW & Audi) do.

Yeah, that happened to me just the other day. Made me look twice till I turned on the wipers to clean off the condensation. No it wasn't dew.

I didn't want too make another tread, I'm sorry if this is off topic but I couldn't find help on Google (a first) How do I remove the stock spoiler on my 03 Cab.. I ordered a different spoiler and he says that in order to install all you gotta do is remove the stock Pop up spoiler (not the whole deck lid) and replace it with the one I bought .. Can someone lead me too another forum maybe? A video? To remove the stock... Much appreciated!

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I follow this video and worked like a charm BBMD 996 GT2 Wing installation - YouTube

Thank you!!

I have not found documentation on this but Hard sprints Wide open throttle running to red line will make the A/C compressor switch off until I decide to drive normally again.

Yes, we know that the Cabrio top will not fold down if you don't have the parking brake set (exception is when using the key in door method). However, it will not fold down if the engine cover is unlatched either.

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My 2003 Cab doesnt seem to respond to the key in door method at all? Is this normal for this year?

I discovered today that the next time I ever remove the 7 liter reservoir, I will remove the caliper and rotor. What a puzzle box that is. The good news is the leak was mysteriously stopped by removing the pumps and re-seating them. That was a total beating of a chore. I also discovered that, in replacing my driver's side parking bulb, the real culprit was aged and separating wire insulation. I felt like a brain surgeon with all those wires. Has to be record number of wires in ANY headlight assembly, EVER. I'm very satisfied to have successfully conquered these two would-be simple tasks. I so love driving a 911. Mark

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To the top coming down, the windows, or both? First the windows will all come down (all 4 at once). Keeping the key turned in the door and the top should start to unlatch and fold down. Look at the dash while doing this to see if the 'top malfunction light' is blinking. [yes, a bit off topic].

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None of the above. Only thing that happens is the door unlocks. 😟

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I believe you have a door key window issue as the windows must report "all down" before the top will work. If the windows don't roll down the top sequence will not start. Therefore: Start a new thread (or tag onto an existing thread) with your window issue. And ask the Moderators to remove the sections above in order to keep this thread on topic.

Thanks Bossbill. See link .

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By default, the side markers do not flash. There is a DIY on Renntech.org that explains how to make them flash with your turn signals. I've done it and it's an easy DIY. You must be a paid member on that site to view the DIYs. Well worth it.

That women's undergarments come flying at your car...some with phone numbers. i heard the rumors, but never thought it was true..

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You'll need to make sure the lights show a 4-6ohm resitance across them , ( leds are 256k+ohms for most lights) a 6 ohm 50 watt resistor across the wires will make them work correctly, the resistors must be mounted to metal and in an area that they cannot touch anything as they get hot, this is especially true with the third brake light. Otherwise Abs psm lights and no cruise.

Not sure this applies, but I pulled off one of my center wheel caps and noticed what I thought was clear coat peeling off the cap. I began to peel back the clear coat and what I discovered was that there was simply a clear plastic film that was applied, I assume, at the factory for protection during shipping only. The plastic was similar to what one finds on electronic components that most people forget to remove until they realize that it was not meant to remain across the screen. I removed the plastic film from all four center caps an after 15 years they look brand new.

Not really official but....after 16 years and 136,000 miles the hood shocks gave out and would not hold the hood up anymore. Replaced with OE hood shocks. I did not know that the hood shocks actually "raise" the hood up. Just lift a little bit and let go...and up the hood goes! I always thought that they just held the hood up.

Never mind I don't have a TP key.

Not much to add here, but if you are unfortunate enough to still have a cassette tape holder, it does make a nice iPhone 6 holder by propping the phone on the two top "trays" and wedging in between the radio *****. Holds pretty well for GPS usage on all but the hardest of turns. Either way, I still plan on getting a double DIN with touchscreen soon.

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Well I'll be ordering some new hood shocks this evening.

It's a good idea to occasionally check the engine/trunk emergency releases: My frunk cable was disengaged at the latch.

Don't think it's been mentioned on this thread, but the 911(996) is great in the winter and snow with the right set of snow tires. Drove mine all winter with a set of Blizzaks and it handled like a dream on snow and ice.

This may be common sense to some, but I literally just figured out that you are supposed to place the windscreen on top of this little ****. Makes the windscreen much more rigid. bIdRzmg.jpg

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Wait, the little **** gets more rigid in the wind?

Well, I noticed this little guy inside my engine lid yesterday. I didn't know they put that on their after doing the retrofit.

Thanks for posting that. I got the sticker by never knew where I was supposed to stick it. Marc

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I saw it and thought, "Damn, I hope that wasn't on there before I paid the shop to 'replace' the old one..."

OFf

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This may have just ruined the 996 for me. Cannot un-see.

I think I discovered what the back seats were designed for.

dumb, but that 6th gear wasn't reverse-after taking a closer look at my ***-getting lots better MPG on the Highway now 25mpg 1st 6 speed I've ever driven

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This boggles my mind a bit. Had you never used reverse before, or were you putting it in 6th trying to reverse, and wondering why it always stalled? Or you thought there were two reverse gears?

justhad never driven a 6 speed before anad hadn't had much freeway time--5th took me more then fast enough to get a ticket--I've had to glance at the online manual for lots of things--sure is nice tacking low now with the cruise control on to keep me away from Tickets--have been pulled over twice sine I bought the car--when they couldn't read my temp registration in the back window--rhe dealer took a month to send the title to my bank and I'm still not in the system when I get pulled over

So, yesterday I learned if your sun shade slips while the car is locked, it can (and did) set off the alarm. Luckily I was at home and it wasn't 2 in the morning.

On both my cars, when filling up gas at California pumps, it clicks off due to back pressure before completely full. I had to hold the rubber neck back from the opening to let air escape between it and the filler neck. My vents have been cleaned and are unblocked. Everyone I know has this issue (996TT's, 997 GT3's, Boxster Spyders, etc.). If you insert the nozzle then rotate it 90 degrees so it's upside down, there will be a little gap at the top of the filler neck, and you can fill all the way up without it clicking off prematurely. You will have to stand there and make sure the nozzle doesn't fall over and out, but it won't click off and you won't get gas fumes on your hands.

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You need this: http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK9X7NOZZLE.html

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Well, dang. This might explain my 13 mpg calculation... EDIT: Nope, nevermind, doesn't apply to '99. Must be my heavy foot.

2004 was the only year that had one touch operation and would operate at speed. If you swap an older speedo with your 2004 996, the top only works when driving, not while stopped. The reason is that the newer speedos send a 0.5 MPH signal to the newer controllers. Without a motion signal to the new controller, the top will not operate. You can get a older top controller, or go to Mods4Cars for a solution. After a year on every Porsche forum I could think of, Mods4Cars told me what the problem was immediately and had a solution.

Was there a hackto make top work while in motion, besides SmartTop that is? My 2003 will operate with ebrake off, and while in motion (although admittedly sometimes fails to latch successfully going into a loop of front latch cycling). To the best of my knowledge mine does not have a SmartTop module?

When upgrading my Becker stereo, I noticed a blue/black wire attached to the A connector and on the schematics it was labeled "Reverse Gear". I tested the line and sure enough, when you put the car correctly into reverse, the car sends 12V power to the radio. It's my prediction that this may have something to do with the backup sensors, but since my car did not have that option, I decided to make good use of the wire and connect a yellow LED to the one dash blank on my center console. I usually don't have a problem finding the proper gears, but when a trusted person is driving my car, I find it helpful when they're fumbling around trying to get it in reverse properly. The light helps. Here is the thread if interested. It should only take about an hour of your time to install. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...y-project.html

The Reverse Gear source is also good for when you add an auto dimming mirror.

I don't know if the relay hack that works with Boxsters also works (or if there's a variant) for the 996. I assume so. There are two levels of hack - one just involves bending a relay pin flat (allows top to operate while car is moving, but E-brake still needs to be clicked up one notch); the other involves a single shunt to be installed which eliminates the e-brake requirement. Maybe someone who has DIY'd this on a 996 will speak up. It's about 15 minutes' work (and zero $ materials cost) to perform this on a 986 Boxster.

If you pay extra for expidited shipping to the transport company you will not get your new to you 2003 cab delivered on time. Instead you will have to wait an additional two weeks due to a business trip.

In 2002+ models, the second cup holder has a larger diameter than the first. For years I had to put a lid on my morning smoothie cup and ate/drank it at work. Now I can keep it in the second cup holder and sip it while sitting in traffic.

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+1 Anyone?

When the 996 is not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display "pauses" and displays the last reading from the outside temp. sensor (located forward of the radiator in the front bumper). This eliminates erroneous readings caused by heat from the radiator while the car is stationary. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=647763

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I think this is most certainly true, because my car seems to record more miles then I actually drive. I will have to do some tests with my other cars to prove this

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i believe the odometer and speedometer are totally separate mechanisms.

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It does register higher. Check it with a GPS unit to see how much.

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Mine registers exactly 3mph higher. Pretty sure my '10 GTI does the same thing. I thought it had something to do with liability.

[QUOTE=Vince124;13127884]Not much to add here, but if you are unfortunate enough to still have a cassette tape holder, it does make a nice iPhone 6 holder by propping the phone on the two top "trays" and wedging in between the radio *****. Holds pretty well for GPS usage on all but the hardest of turns. Either way, I still plan on getting a double DIN with touchscreen soon.[/QUOTiE] If you put the phone in the bottom holder you can put the top under the radio buttons. Works great. I have the ssk but not sure it that's why it fits

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I've read, here on RL somewhere, that Germany has some law that if the speedo reads UNDER they get fined so it's set over to avoid that possibility. And for the circular lulz here's a link to a post referencing this thread as a source: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post10602347

I didn't know my 996 was going to easier to work on than my Land Rover.

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D2?

Yes, D2. 130k miles and daily driver. Motor runs like a top but I am slowly working through the PO's neglected items. With the difference in the heights of the vehicles I thought the 911 was going to be harder to get under and have much smaller spaces to work in. Not completely true. It would take too much time and space to compare and contrast the vehicles since they are so different. But I do love transitioning between the Disco and the 996. The driving experiences are, naturally, polar opposites. For example, the Disco feels like you are sitting ON it while you are definitely sitting IN the 911.

So I'm almost ashamed to admit this, but I did notice other threads with people having a similar issue during my research, so hopefully this helps. I've had the car about 2 months and just yesterday realized how the auto up/down feature works on the windows and sunroof. On all of my other cars you'd either have to push the button down an extra click, or press and hold for a second to activate it. It never worked for me and I read about 'resetting' it by holding the button two seconds after the window is down, etc. However, on this car you just do a quick click and release. Same with the sunroof. They all work perfect, just need a quick click.

So I feel like a moron but I learned today if you leave something wet in your car and come back 12 hours later, whatever was wet will be dry but all the moisture will be on the inside of your windshield!

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If you quickly double click the lock when you "arm" the alarm, it inactivates the motion sensor inside the car so the movement of the sunshade will not set it off. At least on my 2003.

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Yep, technically speaking this works, but dang it is hard to get that double click timing down right!

Being my very first post... As soon as my Viper is sold, I want a 01 or 02 Turbo BADLY!!! Never knew much about them as wasn't ever a "Porsche guy." Yet, here I am and can't wait to buy one! This is a great thread for a "noob" in the Porsche world.

Can't believe I've had this car 4 years and only just found out that the windows and sunroof close automatically! Can't get the mirror to dip in reverse though.

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It's in the owner's manual: Preconditions – Vehicle must be equipped with seat memory. – Set the control switch A to “passenger’s side”. – Reverse gear must be engaged.

I could program the seat and mirror to dip, but I always had to manually return the mirror back ? PIA so reprogram to eliminate the mirror dipping.

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You don't have to reprogram to eliminate mirror dipping just place the adjusting switch in the center.

My mirror adjuster has only 2 positions, right and left mirror ?

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Sorry - was confusing with another car...so set the switch to the driver's side - switch to the passenger side controls mirror dipping. See my post about 3 up.

OK, no problem with programming all to work, the problem is once I am done backing up and going forward in gear the mirror does not return to normal position and I have to reset the mirror while driving.

I've got the same issue John. Durametric shows a potentiometer fault on that mirror on mine. I just haven't gotten around to chasing it, and generally struggle with electronic type issues.

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The "potentiometer" is actually the entire mirror motor assembly located behind the mirror. It is not a difficult job to replace it. See Part #11 here: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=809-10

Thanx for the info, I have the durametric pro and shows no faults. I am fine without the dipping of the mirror, everything else works.

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Thanks Joe. My mirror still moves fine, just points itself to the sky after returning from reverse, and every time I use the keyless entry unlock. Like John, I just have to readjust each time with the switch. So I know the motor is working, just seems to lose its sense of direction

When did this become a tech thread?

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Just tried this, didn't seem to work?

delete

I'm in CA so seat warmers aren't really a requirement for me (ironically, all of our cars have warmers) found out the other day that the seat warmers on the Porsche are dual stage. Press once, and you get the red light for high, and press again and the light turns yellow for medium heat.

+1 on pushing the lock button twice rapidly will beep the horn once and disable the interior motion sensor so you can leave the dog in the car (don't ask), twisting the key in the door lock twice also works. Dan

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On MK1 is supposed to be recirc and up vent together for 5 seconds Cheers!

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I bought mine and compared them to a friend's fabspeed headers. Aside being shinier and some of the weldings being beautiful on the fabspeed's the dimensions AFAIK are identical. I'v had them for over 3 years, no problem with them. Obviously, they're not shiny anymore but, who cares.

In every car I've owned, I always test the range of the car after it reaches the E mark on the gas gauge. Obviously, I carry a 2 gallon gas can when I do this. On my 03 C4S I've found that I can go 40 ish miles (going @ 60mph/24mpg) after my range on the trip computer states '--'. Also, did you know that on a 03 C4S you can fit up to 62 liters (16.37 gals) of gas even though the manual says 57 liters (15 gals) when is really empty? I estimated that, once your range states '--' you have about 2 gals left. that is the best reserve of all the cars I've owned. Welcome to try it some day. Make sure to carry a full gas can with you.

So a clarifying question. I have seen several folks post that all of our cars have seat warmers. I have a 2001 C4 Cab, and don't believe I have seat warmers. Where would the switch be?

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the switch would be on the center console immediately below the oddments tray. My first 99 C2 had them. My current 99 C2 does not

Thanks Joseph.... Mine doesn't have seat warmers.

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This goes against 2 warnings in the User Manual, so I'll take your word for it!

On a recent trip I pushed my 02 C2 26 miles past the '--'. I filled up with 15.2 gallons. I think I have a 16 gallon tank.

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I just discovered this horn honking thing today, when I left the little cubby in the center console open. Read the manual again on the alarm section and didn't see anything about why the horn would beep. When I experimented with setting the alarm with cubby open and cubby closed, sure enough. It honks to tell me I'm forgetting something.

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It's referenced in the manual early on - page 21 or thereabouts: A short signal from the alarm horn will draw your attention to the fact that the following components are not completely closed when you try to lock the vehicle: - Passenger's door - Luggage compartment lid - Engine compartment lid - Rear lid (Targa) - Storage tray - Glove compartment

The upper corner of the door windows magically collect finger prints. I kept wondering, why are those fingerprints there? Because the silly new owner required several days to discover that on the 996 coupe there is no door frame around the window like his last car had. And therefore opening / closing the door with a couple of fingers on that window corner is not a sanctioned technique.

I've learned that my 996 makes me a bit jealous of everyone else because they get to watch it drive down the road and I don't.

From recent test drives of various 996 models in the greater Boston area I've learned: 1. Non-Porsche dealers don't know what an IMS is or how to know if it's been fixed (the answer, I'll have my mechanic check that and get back to you is obviously wrong) 2. There is a major difference between Bose Premium Sound and regular speakers 3. For tall people, supple leather seats do make a difference (small but noticeable increase in headroom). 3b. If you are above 6'4", a convertible probably won't work for you (I'm 6'6" and I hit my head on the liner) 3c. Convertibles are quieter than I expected (based on ownership of non-Porsche rag-tops). 4. There is a noticeable difference in torque from the 3.6l engine in the MK2 versus the 3.4L in the MK1 5. Maybe its me but every version i drove that had seat warmers, the seat warming was severely underwhelming 6. I like a rear-wiper more than I anticipated I would (probably not necessary in warm climates but did wonders in a test when rain started) 7. Also for tall people, manual in a coupe with supple leather is a hell of a lot easier than in regular seats in a convertible. The center console didn't factor as much nor did the steering wheel. My lanky legs and large feet had plenty of room. More to come the more i test drive (and when I finally bite the bullet and snag one, i'll post pictures)

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my '05 (996) 4S doesn't have them

Heated seat is an option so not every car has them.

Per my prior post, seat warming is rather underwhelming, but limited experience. Anyone feel different. I live in the cold, so I want this function but may be overvalued?

The heated seats in my '04 Cab with leather get quite warm (hot).

Seat heater buttons located below the climate control on my 2001 Cab.

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Are the consoles carbon fiber with fake wood overlay, or is it the the other way around?

There are two settings ( yellow and red) for hte seat heating. The red one is pretty hot and the yellow not as much .

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I am the same height and just did the console delete and found it to be a big advantage with long legs.

Do you miss the console/bits that fit there?

No, not at all. I use the passenger seat or rear seats for any extra storage.

That there is a spot on the body just in front of the rear wheels (between the plastic wheel liner and the steel wheel well - right behind those little plastic corner thingies...) where dirt collects and builds up over the years (probably since new, and it's a '99) and hold moisture and rots the steel... I was able to easily poke my finger through on both sides. Fortunately, the rot is inside the wheel well and not to the outside/rocker panel. It should be a fairly easy fix/patch - just weld in a new piece of steel, do a little grinding, prime, undercoat and paint. It doesn't have to be pretty, as it will never be seen - I just don't want tit to rust again...

If you have converted from lug bolts to studs and lug nuts, be advised that some manufacturers consider their studs to be "wear items" that should be replaced or inspected every two years. Three out of the five studs holding my driver-side rear wheel failed in a 2-week period on my 996 less than two years after installation. There are many, many fans of stud conversion, but I'm no longer one of them. If that third stud had failed anywhere else, it could have been disastrous. I'll be running factory lug bolts from now on.

define failed

Snapped? Perhaps the wrong torque? Is the torque the same for studs and bolts? I know my 3 cars are all different. The 996 is 96 ft lbs. The Vette is 100 ft lbs. and the SS is 140 ft lbs!! So be careful to match the torque correctly.

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Read all about it - https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...one-wheel.html

That little space between the passenger door and seat is designed to store an umbrella. I had no idea.

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As with anything Porsche - expensive https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...2UMBRELLA.html

wow, thanks...

I learned yesterday that when I brake hard, my horn honks. I don't think it is supposed to do that though.

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Chelsea Manning wants an apology

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Mine too. fixed it last weekend. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...iy-w-pics.html

Ha! No, but I drove a 54 Chevy that did that years ago. Electric wire crossed somewhere!

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Thank you!

It doesn't matter how much it costs to maintain your Porsche. It only matters what your wife thinks it costs.

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I love this comment!!! Hahaha So true!

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Never were truer words spoken.

Yeah, every time I get a UPS delivery, its always how much did that cost, Im running out of bogus answers.

I noticed that if yu're not careful, you'll dent the power steering (I think) hoses when you jack the car up when using the right front jack pad.

I recently learned that if you press the window up/down switch quickly it will go all the way up/down automatically. Today I learned that if the engine is off, that functionality stops working. They still go up and down normally with the buttons, but the auto functionality is gone.

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The jack point has a notch in it so I use something like this and have never even come close to any plumbing. Not sure where you're putting your jack?

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What are "nannies?"

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1. ABS 2. PSM 3. Speed Governor 4. Rev matching 5. Fuel Cutoff 6. Lane Departure Warning 7. Backup sensors/cameras 8. Heated seats 9. Rear windshield wiper (hehe) 10. Fat British lady that takes care of your children while you make millions to support your habits

Apparently there is a pokey type piece of metal in the center of the seat about mid-spine level height. Was pushing on the leather for some unknown drunk reason fumbling with **** and thought that was kind of odd. You don't really have to push that hard against the leather to feel the steel piece either.

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The Porsche branded umbrella can be purchased at SunCoast Parts. /exthree

Dumb complaint: Does anyone think that you have to move the steering wheel more than other cars to cancel the blinker? I have noticed, especially getting onto on- or off-ramps that my signal is still blinking after I merge. So again, dumb complaint that you can't do a thing about, but I just want to confirm I'm not crazy.

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Sorry can't confirm your mental status - my 996 (and 997) turn signal canceling works just the same as my other non-Porsche cars.

I just read this ENTIRE thread. You see, I have a deposit on a 99 Aero so I need to learn EVERYTHING before picking it up next week! I learned that my 99 has features I like, ie, cable operated throttle, frunk and lid. Less electronics, less weight, and of course a double row IMS (which has now LN made). Oh, and a real dipstick! And I'm growing to love fried eggs. In fact, I'm going to eat that for breakfast every day until the car arrives! Subscribed. Thank you.

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I have thought about it, but I do not think I will ever get rid of my yolks on my old silver 99. Fried eggs for life!

Agreed. hey, I was looking at a `99 C2 that was also silver over black, super low options except for LSD, and had low miles. It's your twin! I "settled" on this slightly more optioned car (64 options including Aero!)

The more I drive my 996 the more compliments I get and the more I like the fried egg headlights

brought home my new-to-me `99 996. First thing that happened was a brand new Audi R8 came along side and gave me a big thumbs up! COOL! And his car is early 5x the cost of mine!

I learned my NAV is CD based and that the disc that came with the car is NOT from my area! Anyone have a NAV CD for this year unit for the NY area they aren't using?

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^^This^^ is classic!!! Probably not worth the trouble...just use your phone for Nav - it's much better anyway... If you MUST have nav in the car, get yourself a double din unit...

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Agree...even if OP finds the appropriate CD for his location, there's no assurance that a 10+ year old CD will even be current. By the time the CD churns through its data (again assuming your destination is in the data) OP could already be there. Don't waste any more time on this - move on to other, more important (and fruitful) mods. Congrats to OP on the new car.

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Thanks, but I want it to work. I will of course use Google Maps for real info, but I hate that every screen says "Nav deactivated." Maybe someone in the mid west has a car that came from NY and they want to swap CDs!

Many things that were written in this thread appear in this video. Another classic case of RTOM: You Tube

I love my fried eggs!

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Yes, I have the same problem. I think something is failing. Sometimes I hear a weird noise when I turn the wheel - like cheap metallic spring stretching...and then nothing, the blinker stays on.

Not sure if either of these have been covered but: - the light in the front of the drivers door handle shines on the ignition barrel! Never noticed until yesterday - a big blue Ikea bag fits perfectly in the frunk

Hi - I'm new here and this may have been answered in the past but some reply threads seemed to go on tangents and I got lost....ha ha. Anyway, I've got a 2003 C4S with the X51 option. I found the serial number on the engine (M96/03Sxxxxxxxx) but I can't find where the transmission number is. Does anyone out there know where is it located? Description or clear photo(s) would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Jim

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X51? Nice!

awesome thread (even considering the filler). picking up my car tmr and this has been very helpful and even at times entertaining w/the witty comments and remarks.

I was looking for a used 997 or 996 to buy. Even though I was inclined to go for the 997, once I saw the 996 C4S in person and what a great deal it was relative to the 997, I decided to buy it. I have always liked the C4S headlights and the wide body. Now that I have it I'm slowly working my way through various repairs and upgrades. No shortage of ways to spend money!

If you do this on a cab your windows open and your top will fold. Bob 2003 911 C2

Thought I would post this in here for future reference

So my 02 with factory replacement out of an 05 has 320?

Yes it appears so if it is an M96/03 2005 engine.

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I wanted a 4th dog but my wife said �get a Porsche�. Who am I to argue!

Apparently, the AC/fan display will show various temperatures (oil temp, engine temp, etc.) If you hold down the up button (for air to come out on dash) and the internal circulation button at the same time it'll shift the display to a series of codes and then a figure. What the codes mean is listed in photo

Just finished going thru this entire thread. A lot of info that I already knew and a lot that I didn't know about (or that doesn't apply to) the new (to me) 2000 C4 Cab that I just bought The things that jumped out at me are: 1 the coffee cup holder options; none in my car. 2) that there is a shelf under the steering wheel that'll fit my manual but I found that the manual fits better in the passenger door compartment and that the shelf is better for carrying mail that I p/u at the PO or maps (but who uses maps anymore?). 3) the fact that I can open/close the roof using the key in the door lock (which I'd never do anyway w/o the engine running due to fear of draining the battery). 4) the single rear (Euro-style) fog tail light. Haven't checked it out myself yet but I installed a Euro light switch in my 2008 BMW 335i E90 which lights up BOTH rear tail lights when the rear fog lamp switch is turn on. 5) the fact that late model p/u truck drivers take offense and tailgate you when you pull it out in front of them like you f*cked their woman, and 6) the fact that I already get more compliments and "looks" in the car than I do in my MR2 (they don't even know what it is) or my BMW 335i (which is faster and handles better than the 996 w/the mods it has) or my MB ML 350 that cost me more. Every knows what a 911 is and they want one!

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Not 100% sure, but I think this is only on a 996.1

Lol, I I have a rear wiper switch on the dash, but no rear wiper.

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I would file a lawsuit. No rear wiper? Huh...whoever heard of such a thing.

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I can't stand how the rear wiper looks and am glad I don't have to delete it myself. Just thought it was odd.

it's illegal here. fire risk

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There is another thought with regards to the RMS seal, I found that European Parts Solution offers another solution which adds an additional #8 bearing and housing to the end of the crankshaft providing additional support, reducing engine vibration which may be the cause of the failure rate of replacement seals. I am considering this when I replace my IMS with the LN solution.

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Let us know how that works out.

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After reading through this entire thread, I find this one takes the cake.

Don�t remember reading this in the manual and just stumbled on it last weekend...pull out the headlight switch and turn clockwise to access both headlights and the fog lamps. Not sure if I�m using the correct terms -too lazy to refer to manual at the moment. Whatever the terms it sure provides A LOT more illumination. Disclosure - I�ve got a 99.

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I had a 2002 Boxster that did the same thing!

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The 996 bible this book is.....

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Should be at $129.99 "used"! Bought the manual for my 335i (used) for just $20. But, of course, it's NOT a Porsche . . . And, of course, I just saved it on AMZN for purchase when I'm not so bothered by the asking price. LOL! PS: Nuts! Looks like I just missed out on a used Bentley manual (that retails for $145) for just $50 that I save to my buy list on AMZN too. Oh well . . . they're just on my "want" list. Don't "need them because I don't do any of my own work but would "like to have one of them for reference. Will just have to keep an eye out for one in the future.

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I have to do my own work to afford owning a Porsche. So, paying full retail for a brand new one was cheap to me...It's more than paid for its self in the first 6 months of ownership.

Did you know if you add lightness the car feels more like a gt3 😂

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I don't do any of my own work anymore (except really easy stuff where you don't get dirty) but I have no problem buying as a reference. Just not in a hurry to do so.

Something "new" I learned about my 996 is that when you turn off the fan in the car, the car will overheat. Don't know the why's/wherefore's but when I did this yesterday, the temp gauge hit red at 250 but when I drove today w/the fan ON, the temp gauge stayed at/below the next hash mark past 180 which I'm guessing is around 210. Who knew?

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Something is wrong with your cooling system. The radiator fans come on regardless of the HVAC system fan, except when you have the AC on then the fans come on initially at low speed. Are both of your radiator fans working? You can check them by turning on the AC, then both fans should come on at low speed. 250 is maxed out and something is wrong. Your average temp should be around the 0 in the 180 as shown on the temp gauge. Have you checked your coolant level?

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Coolant level is spot on. Radiator fans are working w/AC; don't normally use AC because I always drive w/the top down. All I know is that when I turned the HVAC fan off in the car, the car overheated. When I turned it back on, everything was fine. Water temp stayed between 180 and the next hash mark (210?) but didn't go all the way to 250 and RED when I left the fan off. So, unless it goes back into the RED w/the fan ON, I'm not going to worry about it (anymore).

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�Bird Box� maintenance. I love it.

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Not sure what that means but if it means anything like -- "If it aint' broke, don't fix it." -- then I'm all good w/it.

Quotes source post: 16873547

That's almost like my bore-scoring denial: "when I turn off the radio, I hear a ticking noise from the engine. When I turn it back on, everything is fine." - except the HVAC and the cooling system are related, and the car should NOT overheat whether the HVAC is on or not. Something is wrong with your cooling system, very likely the fans (which come on when you turn on the HVAC, coincidentally)

Here are some things I learned in the past couple of days. The 19" lobster claw wheels with tires weigh very little more than the oem 17" c4 straight spoke wheels with snow tires. 17" Dyno rims fit a c4 perfectly and weigh substantially less than the oem straight spoke rims,, with the same snow tires. 19x11 lobster claw wheels are common, and the 19x9.5 are more scarce. By the way, they fit just fine, no rubbing on a 99 c4 with some thin spacers. The ride with 19" vs 17" doesn't seem to be a lot different. While shopping for wheels, I learned that there are aftermarket versions of MANY oem Porsche rims. Got to be careful when shopping.

Quotes source post: 6995101

That is true..Pretty simple fix.

Quotes source post: 6995121

Holy crap! $229?

Does anyone know how to increase the brightness of the ambient lighting? I saw it mentioned in this thread a while back, but didn't see exactly how to do it. Thanks

Quotes source post: 17438490

Gently turn the clock adjustment ****. Right for brighter gauge lights, left for lower gauge lights. Only works for the instrument cluster and radio (if original). I think it also works for the HVAC panel lights.

Quotes source post: 6995110

won't u lose radio code. ?

Quotes source post: 17392014

Doesn't work if the foam on the flaps are gone!

Quotes source post: 14580493

that is gorgeous, I'd love to see the interior! (also long island is the best!)

Quotes source post: 16897421

Whatever sensor that turns the fans on when the water temp merits it, would be my guess. I�m new to these though so YMMV

On a 1998 build ('99 US) 996 the onboard computer can be turned on, i.e. display multiple functions like outside temp, etc.; even a three stalk lever column can be turned on as well.

Quotes source post: 17643064

Correct. OBC is there, just not activated. Once activated it will read the outside temperature as default, however there is a guy that makes a wiring kit that you attach to the cluster and can either install and wire to a stalk, or what I did was utilize the blank "unused" buttons next to the climate control instead. Pelican has toggle switches that work great, look OEM, and don't cost much.

Quotes source post: 17653586

I just picked up a �98 build 996 two weeks ago. The only thing I really miss about the �00 Cabriolet I just sold is the OBC, so I�m blown away by your comment. Please post details or links about activation and the Pelican toggle switch. Please! 🙏

Quotes source post: 17674032

Any shop can activate the OBC, but it will automatically show the outside temperature. Attached is a picture of the "schematic" I drew years back, with the wiring pre-made by an old user from here. Think it's for a 3-rd stalk addition, haven't tested the length to see if it reaches the center console near the HVAC for the blank buttons. Honestly just haven't cared to go further since it shows temp and none of the other information I care about once behind the wheel.

Quotes source post: 17678644

greatly appreciate your help! Would you like mind taking a closer picture of the wiring diagram? This one blurs if I try to zoom in on the text / diagram.

Quotes source post: 17678655

Sure thing. I try to reduce pictures since I always post from a PC, so if you're on mobile I have no idea how the pictures turn out.

I did this hack in my 2000 Boxster years ago using an extra rocker switch in a vacant position near the radio. Here is the link to Pelican where they show you how to do it. Fortunately my 2000 C2 Cab had this option done at the factory. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...stallation.htm

Are there unactivated circuits/switches in the 996 for DRL's? /X3

Hi there my car doesn�t have the manual but I remember reading somewhere that if you have the trickle charger connected there�s a recess on the door trim so you can pass the cable through without preventing the door from closing completely. true ?

Quotes source post: 17996182

Yup. If you run your hand down around the weather strip seal on the door, you will find a gap at the bottom of the passenger door.

Thanks @JTT

Quotes source post: 6995141

FYI- Mine is garaged for more than a month (broken foot.) Using a Battery tender (cigarette lighter input) that charges/refreshes the battery, same as the one that says PORSCHE, but cheaper without that $$$$ logo! Also, locking the doors helps prevent trickle loss of power over time. Are you talking about the safety switch that requires you to push in the clutch to start the car? Never knew that.

Here's one. Like the cable throttle, the 1999 996 had cable activated trunk/hood/front bonnet release, vs electrically activated unlocking in later models, which creates issues if your battery dies. This alone makes having a 99 worth it for me!

Quotes source post: 18048647

My MY 2000 996 also has a cable activated release for the frunk and engine compartment.

Quotes source post: 18048662

Ok ... so how do you know you have a cable activated release vs electric?

I don't know not being familiar with the electronic switch. With the cable, you can tell by the feel. I also think (without knowing for sure) that 2000 might be the last year for the cable.

Quotes source post: 18050666

It's impossible to miss once you know what to look for. The manual cable has two large silver paddles for front and rear openers, the electric had black switches in the same general location. In fact the ones with electric switches (at least my old 2001) still has the cutouts for the paddles, but there are switches there instead. I had to pull up a picture of my old 2001 to remember -- my 2000 has the mechanical paddles.

Quotes source post: 6995141

Very interesting - is there more info about how and why this works?

electic paddles Thanks Bring a Trailer.... I have paddles

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First Impressions opening the driver's door. Those paddles get really scuffed over the years from feet dragging over them, and for a relatively low amount of money I replaced them with fresh ones and it made quite a difference. Seen others paint them, but you lost the graphics, still, they are very obvious on first glance.

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9 design have some stickers that match and have the graphics for around $15... you apply them and you are good as new. picture from Fb... i have ordered but have been too lazy to apply

Quotes source posts: 18051050, 18051123

How difficult were they to replace? I'd be inclined to replace them, or maybe repaint if I could make them stronger than the original. If you have a inkjet printer, it's easy to print water transfer decals (they sell the paper on amazon), so you could print clear decals for the graphics, and make them disappear under clear coat. I did try these stickers a long time ago -- looked great initially, but didn't last very long. .

Quotes source post: 18051201

Nice!! I tried stickers first then opted to replace them. Lots of options. As I recall they were an easy change out. Suncoast Porsche has them new of you head that route.

If you want a Porsche targa with 2WD and a hinged back window, your only choice is a 996. The 993 had the sliding glass roof but no hinged window; the 997 targa had the hinged window but only came in AWD.

redridge - proving I'm a Noob, I ASSumed that a "Quick Reply" would attach itself to the original post. Found that wasn't the case. What radio is that? Was it difficult moving the climate controls down? (sorry if answered elsewhere, I'm a noobie)

This new 2022 video on the 996 design process is excellent. Pinky was involved in the evolution of the car and this is worth the watch for sure. Lots of headlight discussion! You Tube

Quotes source post: 14382531

And about 15 years ago, I bought this Porsche umbrella not knowing that today it fits into this compartment in my '03 Targa which I bought last month. Deja vu?

Yesterday I learned that the gas cap locks when the doors do. Makes sense now that I think about it. But in line at COSTCO for gas and not being able to figure it out? SMH.

The headlight units have a setting for "Original" or "Tourist" that can be changed when driving on the opposite side of the road from your home country. Tourist or "T" setting enables RHD cars to travel in countries where LHD is the norm without blinding oncoming traffic. Same for LHD cars driving in countries where RHD is the norm.

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Really? What year? Halogen or Litronic? How/where is the setting?

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Not sure if there are any exclusions by style, year, etc. but the details are on how to do it are here:

Which book is that from?

Quotes source post: 18562366

Porsche 996 The Essential Companion: Supreme Porsche by Adrian Streather

Quotes source post: 18562990

Thanks - I have the book - had not seen that in it.

Thanks gbarron, that's very interesting. I do remember seeing that O/T when I was repairing my headlights.

I love these little 'Easter Eggs' throughout my 996. Walked through the 'c' codes last night, good to know it there. But, has anyone found how to get these 'c' values to show in F?

Quotes source post: 18636582

Are you talking about the HVAC data hack?? If so, that would be a negative good buddy....

Exactly. I finally got Kilo to Pounds conversions but the C to F is still tough for me down here. Happy Mardi Gras!

Quotes source post: 18050996

Whew, that's a relief. I had been googling release cable relocation and dreading it, lol.

An easy way to get into the ballpark (definitely won't be exact) is to take the C temp, double it and add 25. Example, 37c, doubled =74 + 25=99.

If I go out of my driveway with my camper I need to wait for someone to let me on the road. When I'm driving out with my C4 no problem at all, soon as I start driving out a car stops and I get out straight away.

Quotes source post: 18644678

And if you must have a more accurate conversion, which maybe important over a broader range of temperatures, then try this: - multiply by 2, then reduce by 10% and add 32 e.g., 37 C gives 74 - 7.4 + 32 = 98.6F

Quotes source post: 6995102

I�d love to lower it at speed, above 75, for increased MPG, but at least in my car, I�m unable to lower it using the button.

Quotes source post: 6995099

My Grand Cherokee does that in "defrost". It is caused by the air conditioner coming on (to dry the air), but it cools the glass just above the vent enough for condensation to form, on the outside.

Quotes source post: 7448090

Yes, under the right headlight. But the front hood has to be opened to remove the headlights. And the cable isn't long enough to reach anywhere else ( So I added a bit and brought it to my right sidemarker...) The rear one WILL reach to the rear fender liner: take off the left rear wheel, take off the fender liner, and you are in (it is 100% mechanical, in case the electric solenoid fails?) Paul

Quotes source post: 6995102

Has anyone come up with a hack to lower the spoiler at speed? I�m not talking about 25 mph, but 80 mph.

Quotes source post: 19584607

Just pull the relays for spoiler up and spoiler down

@DBJoe996 hmmm. I assume that by removing the spoiler up or spoiler down relay you will simply disable that function for the spoiler altogether. right? I haven't tried it on my 2005 turbo S yet, but @6x6cg are you saying that that the instrument panel switch for the spoiler will not lower your spoiler if traveling >80mph? but your panel switch will raise and lower if traveling <75mph?

While testing for parasitic current- IF you open the driver door, the six interior lights plus the yellow instrument digits illuminate. IF you open the passenger door, the six interior lights come on, but not the instrument yellow digits.

The targa sunshade button is one-touch! Tap it and the shade fully retracts — or closes.

Quotes source post: 6995182

I spy a Millenium Edition

21 years with my C4S and just discovered the mirrors fold..... love this crack cocaine on 4 wheels vehicle...as for my critical thinking...not so much

My 1999 Cab, has PCM monitor which displays ac, radio/CD and cassette, uses a CD nav. Not seen another, but heard of one from concours judge at 2024 Birmingham Parade. map. Unusual if not something known.

Had the PCM 1 navi in both my 996 Carrera and 996 Turbo so not sure how rare it is. Had the telephone too in the Carrera 😂

...that the body of the Litronic headlight unit isn't even made of ABS, it's made of yet another 'perishable' - PET. The mounting boss for the ballast box on mine, which holds the only screw to do the job, is cracked and when I took it off it literally 'crumbled'. I'm not spending 1k on a new light, so research on fixing it has commenced........

Quotes source post: 20189609

Hot Glue! I know it sounds crazy, but that stuff has fixed sooooooo many problems over the years. Make sure you get good, quick set glue sticks. Gorilla glue are the ones I use. If that doesn't work, JB Weld.

Quotes source post: 6995102

spoiler For me I hit the button before I get in,t he spoiler comes up and stays up.I like it.had a whale tail on my 78 carrera.

Quotes source post: 6995099

You can close the vent in the center easily enough. Looking at the A\C control in the center console, disable the center air vent by pressing the button under the 'Lock car', with an oval and cross bars, above the recirculating air button. I use it sparingly since it's centered on the windshield. I flip it off if condensation fogs in the interior. Again, it's the middle button on right side of the controls.

Quotes source posts: 6995221, 7267031

New MAF? Mine is doing the same thing despite both O2 sensors being replaced. Now they tell me it's catalytic converter, and just ignore the light. Like thats a satisfactory solution. The CEL should never be left lit up like that. How would I know if another problem exists? So I want to try this to see if this will do the trick. Time for me to look for another shop. I also found out my local auto shop can change the oil, mount tires, alignments and a number of other maintenance items.

Quotes source post: 20098311

Really? How?

You can fold the mirrors manually by hand. when i tried to do the 04 car, I found the passenger mirror would not fold in, found a used one and replace it, now both fold in. the old one had been broken and fix rigid so it wouldn't fold.

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Guess I'm not the car guy I thought I was....... I've been carrying this shame for so long now its affected my quality of life..

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Its ok, the Porsche gods will forgive you... if buy your car something nice

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This I already knew, I thought there was a way of them folding in and out automatically upon locking and unlocking. I guess I got excited for no reason : )

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These mirrors are pretty stout and takes a bit of OOMPH to work them...sadly at 77 I've had to add an extra arm day at the gym.

Quotes source post: 6995105

By 5 mph according to Waze once you exceed 10 mph I think. Most definitely at 25. I'm refreshing my math skills. But yeah, it's a surprise to a new owner.

>>2) The spedometer is off so that it reads faster than you are driving - almost all 996's from what I hear<< Here is a discussion about the different accuracy rules for speedometers. https://www.thrillist.com/cars/your-...-japanese-cars

Quotes source post: 20624741

On OE wheels and tires my C2 is off about 5kmh at 150kmh. Not bad. On my TT you can code an adaptation to line up the speed with GPS, that must be possible on these� at the very least, re-code the options for a different OE wheel package with less error. I did a time/speed/distamce rally in a Chevy Astro many years ago and after 80km the odometer was out less than 150m, so 0.2% accuracy. Very impressive, but I�m not sure that was ever intended!

My 996 is 3 MPH over actual speed (as indicated in my phone's GPS) at all speeds. For what it is worth, all my American cars match the GPS exactly when they have the correct size tires.

I learned that pushing the windshield washer stalk forward activates the headlight washer cover ejectors. lol Always assumed that if the headlights are on they were getting sprayed when the windshield is washed, like my wife's BMW and our Range Rover does. When I accidentally bumped the stalk they lifted up and flew off into the night. If you haven't inspected yours in a while it might not be a bad idea to glue them down to the nozzle or replace them if they're cracking and brittle, because they're not cheap.

Quotes source post: 20629937

Did you have them off to polish the headlights?

I never knew the interior frunk light serves a dual purpose of lighting the frunk interior and also allowing you to check your brake fluid reservoir's level in the dark.