30 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2006 Boxster will not start
Reported or suspected cause
intermittent now it won't do anything
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause
The problem was intermittent now it won't do anything.
Leading evidence: 'intermittent now it won't do anything' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'intermittent now it won't do anything' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 12+ volts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I would take a step back double check for 12+ volts on all the fuses.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
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My 2006
Boxster
will not start.* When I put the key in the ignition it recognizes the key and*the instrument cluster says key 1.* The instrument cluster does nothing and the
obd
does not function.* The car does not try to crank.* The
battery
is good.* The key remote locks and unlocks the doors.* If I put key 2 in it recognizes it and says key 2.* I put in another ignition switch and there is no change. I also get the message steering locked but it is not.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
You say the steering isn't locked. Does that mean you can freely turn the wheel (with resistance due to no power steering assist)? If not, try turning the wheel slightly L and R after inserting the key. Sometimes, if there is tension on the lock, it doesn't release. If it doesn't release, you'll get the behavior you describe. It gets me from time-to-time.
Manual or
PDK
? if manual, check if you're pressing the clutch (obvious) but more importantly, see if there's some kind of "clutch switch" involved that might keep the car from starting. I had a different car that would not start intermittently because the clutch switch would intermittently work. I was able to work around it by "pumping" the clutch to get the switch to engage. But I don't know if these cars have a "clutch switch" but it's worth a try.
How do you know the battery is good, did you charge it, have you load tested it? Did you check for any blown fuses?
On my 981 if the battery was low it would recognize some things, even light part of the dash but would not crank...
I have tried a new
battery
and it made no difference. I have checked fuses but will check again. I appreciate all responses as I need to find the problem.
The diagram might have helped, but if this is the one used to open the frunk in the event of a dead
battery
then yes I would think 12v should be present with a good
battery
installed. I of course have a
981
, not sure if this part of the wiring is the same.
I think the "steering locked" message is a clue. The Gen2 manual says with this message you should get the fault remedied at the dealer. Maybe there is a code thrown?
There is a steering angle sensor which must be calibrated and may need adjustment.
Was there any significant/unusual event that happened just before this problem started? I see you are a new member, how long have you had this car?
I have had the car about 1 year. The problem was intermittent now it won't do anything. You can't use a code reader because the
OBD
does not work, no unusual events that I know of.
The 12 volt connector in the fuse box is the one that is used to open the hood in case of
battery
failure. It shows 0 volts. If anyone can verify this is correct of should have 12 volts I would appreciate it. You would think it would but it could just operate the switch I guess.
I just read where the 12 volt connector in the fuse box has a relay behind the box and just supplies voltage to the release switches???
In the wiring diagram there is a box that is labeled Current Distributor. It has several high amp value fuses. I think it is on the positive
battery
terminal but not sure. Those several fuses send power to several banks of fuses in the fuse panel inside the car and also relays throughout the car. I think this is the same thing that some car manufacturers call fusible links.
The fact that the emergency power
plug
in the fuse panel is dead it sounds like the problem could be one of the fuses in the Current Distributor or possibly a vital relay. I have got to go somewhere right now but will look at the wiring diagram more thoroughly when I get back later.
Or it could be that the emergency +12 powers the relay, as a way to isolate the remainder of the system. So +0V would be normal. It may even have a diode to keep it from draining the
battery
if someone connects it wrong.
Update: I get no volts on mine either.
Can you clarify what you mean by the
OBD
doesn't work? That suggests some serious electrical changes or issues. It may help others with troubleshooting suggestions.
Sent from my
iPhone
using Tapatalk
After looking at the 2007 wiring diagram I can see now why the emergency power pin doesn't have power on it. Referring to sheet 3 of the power distribution diagram:
The emergency power pin supplies power to the normally open contacts and both the coils in emergency relays 1 and 2. So if the
battery
was dead for instance applying 12V to the emergency power pin would pull in the two emergency relays 1 and 2 and apply temporary power to several control units notably: Gateway Control Unit, PAS Control Unit, FrontEnd Control Unit, Onboard Computer Network Control Unit and the Electronic Ignition Lock. All those for Emergency Relay 1. Relay 2 would supply power to the Rear Control Unit.
Power to all those Control Units normally comes via The normally closed contacts on each relay. And the power to those normally close contacts come from the Current Distributor Fuse 6 (80amp) for Relay1 and F7A(15A) for Relay2.
If it was me I would apply 12 volts to the emergency power pin and see if you hear relays clicking and something starts to work that didn't before like the OBD2. Something else you might try is swap the emergency power relays if you can find them. That is assuming they are the same. They appear to be the same looking at the wiring diagram. If the normally closed contacts of relay 1 went bad it powers a lot of control units.
Anyway I hope this helps.
Be sure to checkout the
Cayman Wiring Harnesses and Routing PDF
. Along with the schematic, you should be able to find everything.
While looking at the some of the harness diagrams, it occurred to me you may have a grounding problem with the relays. There are a few central grounding points. A loose nut would be all it takes for intermittent problems.
The Obd2 doesn't work because when you turn the switch to the starting position nothing happens. The obd2 does not connect or link. I applied power to the emergency power pin in the fuse box and no change, did not hear any relays. Where is the Current Distributor located, I will check it
next
if I can get to it???? Thanks for all the responses.
I also wonder if because it says steering locked (which it isn't) if this would prevent the ignition from working.
It took me a while to write this post but I see you found the Current Distributor. I will still post this anyway for reference.
I just read on another forum that the chances of a fuse in the Current Distributor being bad is slim. It was stated that the only time is usually when the
battery
is connected backwards. Also it is hard to access. I think the location is on the passenger side under the dash. The wiring harness diagram explains how to replace it.
You don't have to access it in order to check the fuses in it though. If you want to eliminate the possibility of a bad fuse in the Current Distributor you can measure the voltage on a fuse in the regular fuse panel that a fuse in the Current Distributor supplies power to. For example on sheet 1 of the power distribution diagram F1(80amp) in the Current Distributor supplies power to F1, F2, F3, F4 and F5 in fuse holder A which I assume is row A. If any of those five fuses has power it means that the F1(80amp) in the Current Distributor is good.
According to the wiring diagram there are nine fuses in the Current Distributor. They can all be checked by the above technique. You don't even have to remove the fuses in the fuse panel you can use the 'pin hole' test point on the face of the fuse if your test probe has a small enough tip to fit the hole.
On my
981
I can hear a relay pull in when I apply 12 volts to the Emergency Power Pin. It wasn't very loud though and that may not apply to your car.
I think we should back up to basics. Check all the big wires first. Start at the
battery
, loosen them, then tighten them. Take the engine cover off and check the connecting post for the engine main power cable. Check the engine ground wire on the passenger side at the front of the block. The steering angle is not the reason it won't start. That is just a displayed fault relative to the PSM. I'd certainly check the main wire to the starter while your are checking the coupling post at the front of the engine.. If the nut wasn't tightened, they can run a long time before that wire actually shakes totally free of it's post and falls down, where it shorts out the solenoid to the starter, rrrrrrr. Replacement necessary. Let us know how it go!?
I will check the wire tomorrow, thanks.
After all the checking I feel the problem has to do with the steering lock solenoid. If the computer thinks the steering is locked, even though it is not, would it prevent the car from starting? Remember when I put the key in I get the steering locked message. Does anyone have test procedures for the steering lock solenoid??? It would be nice to test it, I looked at the steering column and I can't see the solenoid.
I couldn't find any mention of a Steering Lock Solenoid in the wiring diagram. There is a block that says Steering Wheel Lock. It has three wires going to it and appears to communicate with the PAS Control Unit. The only other thing I could find relative to the steering column is something called the Combined Steering Wheel Module and it appears to be associated with the horn. Considering its name it may do more than just the horn. Item 6 in this parts drawing is labeled Steering Wheel Positions Sensor
[h=2]
[/h]
Item 10 in this parts diagram is labeled Steering Column Control Module. Unfortunately item descriptions in the wiring diagram and the parts diagram don't jive. I would be very careful about tearing into the steering column. You don't want to accidentally deploy the air bag. Try to find a procedure to follow before doing it. Everything I have ever read is at a minimum you need to disconnect the battery for a given period to make sure there are no electric charges remaining like capacitors that are not completely discharged.
Thanks so much for the input. I wonder is 10 is the solenoid? It would be nice if
Porsche
had a test procedure. Do it have where the PAS control unit is located?
According to the wiring diagram it is behind the left side of the dash. I imagine in a difficult location to access. I would be careful when messing with the Control Units. My manual says to disconnect the
battery
and use a
PIWIS
to store info from them and I don't have any experience with that.
When you checked the fuses how did you do it? Did you remove each fuse and measure it with an ohm meter or did you measure the full 12 volts --or ideally a little more than 12 volts-- on both sides of each fuse while it was plugged in. I am going back to this because of what another person mentioned on this thread about a low
battery
causing some things to work and some not. You could have a fully charged
battery
and have a bad connection elsewhere causing a low voltage at a critical point like a Control Unit. I would take a step back double check for 12+ volts on all the fuses.
That is a good point. What I was trying to get at was to see if there was less than 12 volts on one of the fuses which would indicate a possible bad connection somewhere. Low voltage on one of the control units could make it function incorrectly and give goofy symptoms. It is had to tell from the wiring diagram which fuses are switched because some of them are controlled by control units and it is not clear at what stage they kick in. Sorry