New 996 Owner With a Valet Key Question

About a month ago I purchased my first Porsche, a 1999 996 C2 (Ocean Blue Metallic on Savanna Beige). So far I love the car, but I have a question about getting keys made. Currently the only key I have for the vehicle is what I believe to be a valet key (small plastic end without any keyless entry electronics) Is there any functional difference (in terms of locking and unlocking) between a valet key and the standard key aside from keyless entry? Are there any issues with having new keys cut from this type of key? Any suggested alternatives to going to a dealer in the Boston, MA area for getting a second set of keys (I realize that a dealer is most likely needed to program keyless components even if they are sourced from a 3rd party). I appreciate any help and suggestions. Much of the 996 buying advice offered by the members of this forum was tremendously helpful during my search. Thanks!

I'm ABOUT to go thru this, but have not yet, so your mileage may vary. I, too, purchased a car with only a valet key, or at least that's what I call it cuz it doesn't have the remote part. The way I understand it, the metal shaft of the key is the same regardless of the type of key. This info from the dealer. The local dealer doesn't cut keys. They take your VIN and send that off to PCNA and have them supply a key. About $150 just for the metal part. Then, you either get a plain key head like you and I have, or a remote. The remote portion is about $150 as well. THEN the dealer takes about 1/2 hr labor (our shop is $150/hr) to connect the car to PIWIS which contacts PCNA, and pairs the new remote head with the car. So $350 or more. I asked my local indie shop if they could do it. He tap-danced a bit and said they *could* do it, but much easier on everyone involved if I just did it at the dealer. And the dealer would not do anything without either a registration or title certificate. Insurance card won't do.

The remote offers some interesting functions, like not locking if the console lid is open, or if a window or sunroof is open. I believe (since I don't have one), that if you press lock, it will roll-up the windows so that it *can* lock. But I'm saying more than I know.

Go to keysinthepost.com and purchase the blade, cut per you uploaded photo. Purchase a new key head from discount dealer, such as Sunset Porsche (must have a number tag - do not buy a used one = useless). Take both, along with you car and any other working key(s) to a dealer for programming your car to the keys. This is the least expensive way; but, if your purely interested in convenience, some dealers can do it all for a much higher price. GL

I just had to replace a broken key head and the best price for a key head with remote is Genuineporscheparts.com ~$127 + shipping They are an online sales dept for Porsche of San Diego and have the best prices I have found for factory parts You have to go to a dealer for programming and they need all the keys you have. Only a dealer can program the key as they need special security codes. I paid $79 for the programming. The other San Diego dealer wanted $160 keysinthepost.com is probubly the lowest cost way to get the actual key if you buy a key head online, make sure it has the barcode tag o it can not be programmed

Carl, Mark and Jay, Thank you for the information and advice. I'll contact keysinthepost.com and genuineporscheparts.com and order what I need to make a few new keys. Then I'll price several Boston area Porsche dealers for programming costs. I'll let you know how it goes Carl, if you have not yet made any decisions. The three of you saved me some money and provided peace of mind, I greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!

So, if I just want a spare key without the remote, I can get a blade at keysinthepost and it will work? If so, I can fabricate a workable head with a blob of epoxy or similar.

Cuda, The way I understand it is that 996 keys contain up to 3 components. 1) The metal post that fits into the ignition lock (the part that can be cut and ordered from keysinthepost.com) 2) A small "pill" seated in the key head that transmits an electronic handshake required for the car to start. (This needs to be programmed to the car by a dealer) 3) The remote transmitter for keyless entry (This too needs to be programmed to the car by a dealer) The metal post can unlock and lock the doors without any electronics, however if you want the key to start the car you will need at the very least a "pill" component in the key head programmed to your vehicle. I noticed that keysinthepost.com sells a cut key that includes a "pill" but you will still need dealer programming for it to operate as a fully functioning key. The transmitter for keyless entry is essentially a luxury item. Very nice to have, but not necessary. Just ordering a cut post will only allow you to unlock and lock the car. I hope this is accurate and helpful.

Ah, OK, thanks. Yeah, I thought there was some electronic component to the keys. Trying to figure out the cheapest was to get a spare for my old Boxster.

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As Phins said, you need to have the "pill" to actually start the car What some have done is remove the pill from a working key and tape it behind the ignition switch bezel. That way any properly cut key will start the car You do give up some anti theft security. YMMV You can get replacement key head pretty cheap on ebay without any electronics in it I think keysinthepost may have them as well

Cuda, The cheapest rout to a spare ignition key that I have found (with forum user help) thus far is: Order the cut metal key stock from keysinthepost.com (~17 British Pounds [~$26+ shipping) Order a Porsche key head (Part no. 99663704101 with crest and light and "pill") from genuineporscheparts.com for ~$35 + shipping Then pay a dealer to program it for you. From what I have read here on Rennlist dealers will charge anywhere from 15 mins to an hour for labor (if they will touch 3rd part sourced parts at all, apparently some will not.) Best!

The "pill" is an RFID (radio frequency identification) device, it is not powered until it gets close enough to the ignition switch, which has the ability to read the code programmed into the "pill", only if this code matches with the code already programmed into the anti-theft electronics in the car will the car be able to start.

Interesting Idea, Jay, taping the pill to the ignition. That way, any cut key will work. It's for an old Boxster, so security isn't a big deal. Any idea the distance that the pill can be from the ignition switch?

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Car audio shops have used this trick to install remote-starters.

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If you want to shop around, Fifth Gear in Lewisville has the ability to program keys. They did mine.

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I saw a thread on it either here/986 or 986forum.com I suppose you could play around with different locations and see My guess is it needs to be within a foot or so, maybe just has to be inside the car I would imagine that you could get a key cut anywhere that does laser VW or Audi keys as the blade is the same. If you attached the pill to the car, you could probably even get one of the folding keys as long as you did not care about any remote functions

Just sent a message to keysinthepost. Why is no one in the US doing this?

Just did some searching and the valet key is a slightly different blank. Main keys are HAA, the valet key is NAA, that is the difference. The NAA blade has a wide edge preventing it from entering the other locks.

Jay, Thanks, the difference between the key stock (HAA vs NAA) is great to know. The dealer I spoke to seemed ignorant on the topic. I hope that I don't have an issue having a standard key made from the only key I have left. I sent a message to keysinthepost a few days ago, and got a message back stating they were out of the office for employee training. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it won't matter.

Just as info all three of my keys to my 2001 996 are HAA keys, 2 with remotes and one grey valet key.

Reviving an old string: I have 1 working key, And 1 that will start the car, but not operate the remote functions even though the led works properly: rapid blink for door/alarm transmission, alternating blink for frunk. It did operate properly, ONCE, just after I relaced the battery. Then wouldn't do it again. Go figure. I bought some HAA key blanks and an "emergency key" (no rfid pill) cut to match, and would like a "real Valet Key" (I don't know why...) I am now learning I should have bought a NAA key blank for a true "valet key" (but can't find one...) I went to the local (only) Dealership in Hawaii (Honolulu) and am trying to get a Valet Head: "Key Cap - Porsche (996-538-423-01)" ordered and programmed to my 2003 C4S, but they haven't responded "if" they can do it (they can. will they?) or "how much"?? The service writer mentioned an hour of service time is $275 (is that THE MOST in the USA?), and told me to go talk to the Porsche parts department (at the Volvo dealership a few blocks away) to see if they can even get the "Key Cap"... But if you are interested in these HAA/NAA (sidewinder) keys I found this on a VW site (link embedded) and found it interesting. Random question: How is the VAGtacho software different than the PIWIS ? "Replacement Keys Replacing a transponder key can be costly. Coding a replacement key for your vehicle requires the vagTACHO software. This equipment can also be used to disable a key which is lost or stolen by reactivating the remaining keys to the vehicle. Since the absent key is not present, it will not be included in the group of keys that are authorized to start the car. Key = something that starts the car, Remote = something that opens the doors. One has nothing to do with the other. They are separate systems, the parts just clip together. A "fob" is that decorative thing that hangs on your key ring, not a key, not a remote. A laser had nothing to do with making your key, it did not cut it, nobody has a laser to cut keys. The groove is milled on a machine, it just cuts a groove that is not straight = the term sidewinder . " Paul

Still working on the Valet key (have given up, for now, on the non-connecting remote ) It seems the NAA key blanks are NLA. (if ANY of you know where to source one, LMK! ) I am talking to an online Porsche parts dealer and just wrote him this (please correct me if I was wrong. I am "learning as I go") He was conflating the RFID programming with the remote programming: This is my understanding of the three security systems in a 996 The metal part of the key. It physically will unlock/lock the key tumblers in the door, ignition switch, glove box, and center console. The key head has a small RFID pill (a glass capsule) in it, a passive device that sends a code when the ignition lock energizes it (kinda like your "tap and go" credit card at the grocery store), if it matches, the starter will crank and engine will start. If not, no crank. The remote in the key head (the battery powered device in the key) that unlocks/locks the doors, arms/disarms the alarm and may open the hood or rear hatch. They are independent systems (they have nothing to do with each other) Paul Follow up question to the Rennlist crew: Does the lack of a matching RFID pill prevent the ignition system from operating (I hope so) ie: without the RFID pill, can the car be "push started"?? Next time I take the car out, I will find out, as I have a "surfer key"... (had them for years, on all my cars. Hey I live in Hawaii... an old fashioned metal only key that I tie to my swim trunks, that ONLY opens the door, when I want to go in the water. Maybe that is poor opsec... but you won't find my Porsches at Electric Beach or Kailua or Ekuhai while I am snorkeling/windsurfing/swimming. That is what the old pickup is for. Anywhere on the westside, don't even lock it. They will break your window, just to get the change in your ashtray!)

You are correct on all assumptions on how the separate systems work above..... As to the follow up question about the "push start" I don't know but have wondered this myself, but my gut tells me that without the FRID verification the DME will NOT send signals to the coil,injectors, sensors ect untill the FRID is "verified"....Once "verified" it may continue to run even if the RFID is not longer present or has failed.......then once turned off will require "re-verification " .........But if you want to confirm this I also would like confirmation...

Hey Skip, I tried it today, nope the ignition needs the RFID to start the car (even without the starter), It wouldn't bump start with the surfer key. All the dash warnings came on, but it would not fire up. If it had, I was going to PM you (to keep it our secret) But everyone can know, nope, putting a screwdriver in the key slot, turning it, and then push starting the car, won't work. Paul It will continue to run, but it will not start.

Has anyone successfully had a new remote programmer by any chance indie locksmith vs the dealer? I have two keys. One stopped remote function when I changed the battery. I ordered a new remote from Suncoast and have swapped the internals. Just need programming. local locksmith says he has never done one but his programmer tells him he can do it. He charges $99. Two of the dealers in the area want $198.00. I am just curious if it�s even worth trying to save the money or if it really is just the same for cheaper. the inside guy says he won�t charge me if he can�t program it so I guess it�s worth a shot. The $100 difference isn�t going to break me (I already swallowed the cost of the new key head which was $325. Ugh. I just don�t to find out later the key was programmed in a way that causes trouble down the road and then I have to go to the dealer anyway.

Have you tried the (two or three) original remote "reset procedures" to get your non-linked remote working? And you didn't mention, do all keys start the car? When I bought my 03 C4S, neither remote worked (but both keys would start the car, so I knew "they used to") I changed both batteries, then followed EVERYTHING I could find to "re-link" them. One started working (I think after the "start the car, push the button" method) the other unlocked the front hood once (can't remember if it ever unlocked the doors), and has never worked again (even with brand new batteries and a bright blinking LED) Go figure. My next step is PIWIS (when I get the bootleg version working), but I don't have IPAS or "learning codes", so may be SOL... Good luck. Paul

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This is only partly true while the remote code is mostly there in plain text they aren't exactly as they are on the swing tag because of encoding. That's why the remotes can't be reused unless you have the original swing tag. I'd also say not to post information like this in an open forum as it's security related so I'd say I'd recommend to revise your post.