Anyone know how to rewire power outlet in the passenger footwell area to shut off when the ignition is shut off? 2007
987.1
....thanks
There is a really good thread somewhere on here describing the details (hint: it is in the 987 Electronics sub-category). I need to leave for work in a minute but will try to find it for you later tonight. The modification is completely reversible and only requires making a couple of quick changes in your fuse panel. I did this on my 2009 and it works great. You need the following parts:
ABN Fuse Tap Fuse Holder & Fuse 5-Pack - 12V Add a Circuit Kit - Standard ATO Fuse (NOT Mini) Blade & 15A AMP Adapter or similar - you only need 1
WirthCo 30001
Battery
Doctor Fuse Tap Kit for ATO Fuses or similar
1 spare fuse - blown (you will see why later)
The fuses locations you need are A8 and C6 (at least on my 2009).
I'll send a pointer or type up the rest later.
Here is the thread I mentioned above:
https://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman...ster-electronics/106153-bluetooth-phone-auto-connect-key-insertion-finally.html
Yell if you have questions.
Thanks for sharing that! I'll have to do this soon...
Thank you. I will try to digest the information...sure I will have???
Ricarr had some questions and I typed up a more detailed description for him. I figured I would share it here because if Ricarr had questions, others will too. Just to be clear, this isn't my idea, I'm just adding some color commentary. Credit goes to the posters in the original thread listed above. I do use this solution in my own car.
The last post in the original thread uses an "on with ignition" fuse location. Basically you have to turn the key to turn on your power outlet. The original poster used a different fuse location that was "on when the key went into the ignition", the difference being whether the key has to be turned on or not. By the end of the original thread, people were using the "on with key turned" fuse location (C6) which I also used.
The idea is that you need to find a circuit that turns on with the key and that doesn't power "a lot of stuff" so that you can use that circuit to power the power outlet in the foot well. The circuit I used is fuse C6. You will use this circuit to power the power outlet circuit which you need to "break" so it isn't always on (circuit A8). C6 is listed as "Rear Wiper, Non-Dazzle Interior Mirror, Park Assist Control Unit and Cornering Light Control Unit". It comes with a 15 Amp fuse so I'm guessing the relay that powers that circuit can supply at least 15 Amps. I don't have a rear wiper (
Boxster
) so I figured that is a safe circuit to use. The passenger foot well power outlet was originally powered through a 7.5 Amp fuse. The solution below will keep both of those circuits protected with fuses of the same value as came from the factory. To be sure your fuse box is the same as mine, you can test these locations before you start.
Plug
something into the foot well outlet (like a phone charger and your phone). It should be on. Pull out fuse A8. Whatever you plugged in should now be off. To test C6, build the "blown fuse + Wirth connector" contraption and put it in with the Wirth connector on the "bottom" (closest to the car floor). Test the circuit without the key in the car using a simple multi-meter. It should be at ground. Now insert and turn the key. Test this circuit again and it should read 12V.
Normally, A8 is "always on" so you need to break that "always on" circuit. We are going to replace the power to this circuit with a connection that is powered only when the key is turned. The technique described makes use of a blown fuse*. The use of the blown fuse does 2 things:
1. It breaks the always on circuit
2. It gives us an easy way to use a Wirth connector which will connect to a new circuit
Step 0: Pull your fuse box cover off (driver side foot well up against the side of the car). On the inside of the cover is a fuse "map" that tells you which fuses are which. Test the fuse locations as described above.
Step 1: you pull out the A8 fuse (7.5 amps in my car) and replace that fuse with a blown fuse wrapped with a Wirth connector. The Wirth connector is really just a little piece of copper that is form fit to go around the body of the fuse and give you an easy way to attach a pigtail into the fuse panel. One end of the connector wraps around one of the electrical connectors on the (blown) fuse, and the second end "sticks up" beyond the fuse so you can attach a pigtail (from an add a circuit) to it. It is basically an expensive wire whose only value is that it is form fit to the shape of a fuse and fits snugly into the fuse box. You can use any amperage for the blown fuse because once it is blown the protection number on the fuse is meaningless. We will protect the power outlet circuit with the "add a circuit" that you will put in slot C6. When you replace the A8 fuse (with the blown one) you put the Wirth connector on the TOP side of the fuse (furthest from the floor of the car). This is the side that is not powered by the buss bar in the fuse box (you will instead power it from C6).
Step 2: pull the fuse out of C6 and put an "add a circuit" in there instead. The jumper wire/pigtail needs to come off the TOP side (the fuses in the add a circuit will face to the right). You put the 7.5 Amp fuse from A8 into the add a circuit so that you have the same fuse protection on your power outlet as you started with. Put the 15A fuse from C6 in the other side of the add a circuit (which keeps C6 powered/protected to the same level as originally done in case your car is actually using that for something).
Step 3: simply run the pigtail wire from the "add a circuit" to the Wirth connector on the top of the A8 circuit. All of this mess will fit inside the fuse cover if you bend the pigtail connector over.
Done. Go drink beer.
Here is a picture of the finished product.
To reverse it, all you do is pull the add a circuit from C6, pull the blown fuse from A8 and put the two fuses that are now in the add a circuit back into A8 and C6 respectively. Totally reversible without leaving any evidence.
I gave you the name of the parts that I ordered from Amazon Prime. I'm sure other manufacturers will also work. Note that we have full size fuses and not mini fuses in our cars.
*blown fuse - You need to blow a fuse. Be careful. If you do this wrong, molten metal and flying plastic can actually injure you. The safest way is probably to just dremel/drill out the fuse element on a fuse. The more fun way is to blow it electrically. Make sure you use something to limit the current or else you will be unleashing 500 cold cranking amps and that is (very) dangerous. One hypothetical way of blowing a fuse is to replace a larger value fuse with a smaller value one then engaging the circuit. Again, hypothetically speaking, you could replace one of the 30 amp fuses used to power the window motors with a 5 or 10 Amp fuse then use the window motor. You might want to do this on a car that won't throw error codes that you can't reset. Needless to say, do this at your own risk.
If anybody needs help, send me a PM or post here.
