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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRebuilt 3.4L with cable throttle body
Leading reported evidence
Replace currently
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
My engine doesn't need replaced currently, but want to buy a spare before the price climbs higher than I can afford to pay.
Leading evidence: 'Replace currently' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'min of $20k if your crank is still usable' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace currently' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I know I will need the engine replaced sometime in the future, but that's already budgeted.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
None of the links showing on Google Search are for a cable throttle or show other than used engines with 100k+ miles.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You have no idea what kind of use or oil changes that used motor has had.
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My brother sent me a link to USAPartsOnline for a replacement engine. Roughly 13k with 5 year warranty. The actual link is in Messenger and I can't copy and paste it.
Problem with it though, is the e-gas throttle. Mine has a cable throttle and I want to keep it that way.
None of the links showing on Google Search are for a cable throttle or show other than used engines with 100k+ miles.
My engine doesn't need replaced currently, but want to buy a spare before the price climbs higher than I can afford to pay.
Would it be better to get a blown engine and have it rebuilt over the next couple years before the current engine needs replaced.
Thoughts?
Never had any complaints about the e-gas in 23 years. The great thing about it is with software, you can substantially speed up the revs. Never once wished I had a cable throttle.
Just transfer the throttle body from the old engine and put it on the rebuild. Your car doesn't have the ECU for e-gas, so no worries. Everything else is the same on the 3.4's.
Does this engine have an updated IMS bearing?
Rebuilt cores from a reputable supplier are in the $15-20k range. Rebuilding your own engine at a shop is probably a min of $20k if your crank is still usable. The engine would need to be re-sleeved and have the heads rebuilt as well. If you do any upgrades, price just goes up.
Your car isn't made for a cable. They are only in the 1999 model. I want the original setup to keep it like it was sold.
You should lookup the difference between cable and e-gas. A cable doesn't have the limitations an e-gas throttle does.
The engine on usaautoparts is only 13k, with a 5 year guarantee. Includes everything except hoses. It says used though. It may simply mean it's been rebuilt.
I'll have to message them to get more details.
The website clearly shows these engines are used. They say they were running, but there was no history. I would look at an actual rebuilt motor and pay the extra. You have no idea what kind of use or oil changes that used motor has had. If it was me, I would do it the right way.
e-gas is not standard on my model. I also want it to be stock. It has fancier options, but nothing I really need.
The cost for converting cable to e-gas runs between 8 an 15K. That's more than what I paid for the car. I was willing to spend 12k to have it repainted, the clear coat was peeling off. But converting to e-gas costs is prohibitively expensive. I know I will need the engine replaced sometime in the future, but that's already budgeted.
Not telling you to get e-gas.
What i am telling you to do is get a 3.4 factory short block if you are looking to save money amd store it for the day that you want to use it.
No clue on the rebuilder you are proposing. My initial reaction is dont waste your time nor money.
Your other option is to do the right things to keep your 996 running and save up some money for a professional rebuild by an expert.
No short cuts.
The problem with buying a Porsche short block is the core charge.
That would drive up the price.
It will also be susceptible to bore scoring, IMS bearing failure, slipped IMS sprocket, etc.
A rebuild from LN or Flat6Innovations (or a rebuilder that uses LN fixes) will resolve those and more common failures.
Typically used 3.4 engines don't cost $13k.
Should be closer to $9k.
I have decided to have FSI do the work. Tentative schedule for 2nd quarter of 27. I have to split down-payment and completed cost between this year and the next for tax reasons. Otherwise we get kicked into a higher tax bracket.
Since the first two options have issues with supply, the cost is close or equal to the stage 2 build. So Stage 2 is what I went with. I'll never utilize tracking it, but having extra omph on the highway coupled with a much more reliable motor. Street racing is long behind me, and almost electric vehicles can blow the doors off me. But enhancing the driving experience is worth it. It's already an awesome experience. I absolutely love it. I'll sell it to my son for $1.00 when I can't drive anymore. It will have plenty of life remaining, and he would have a blast with it.
The only potential roadblock is Jake's health. So I selfishly wish him the best so I can get the job done.
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