Lighter socket on top console

For now I am opting for the iTrip FM Modulator for my Ipod until I change my head unit of have a better alternative than the dension like a simple auxiliary input. The Itrip is designed to sit on top of the socket nicely but my delemma is the socket still works even if my car is no longer running. Maybe designed so it still works as a cigarette lighter, but by using it with my Ipod and Itrip it stays on and I am afraid it will drain the battery if one day I forget to turn it off when I get out of the car. Any work around this issue?

I have the same issue. Is there an easy way to rewire the lighter socket so in the center console so that it goes off when the ignition is turned off?

iPod Remote I went with the same solution plus I added the iJet iJet I originally bought it at newegg.com, but they don't seem to have it anymore. It works pretty well. I mounted the remote via a velcro strap to the hand brake.

The cigarette lighter is designed to stay on all the time because it is the only outlet that can accommodate the tire compressor. Since in a roadside emergency it is dangerous to keep your car on, the cigarette lighter is an "always on" outlet. Also, per the manual you should not keep anything plugged into the cigarette lighter longer than 5 minutes otherwise you risk draining the battery. Best practice would be to just make it a habit to unplug the adapter as much of a pain as it might be. You could disable the cigarette lighter by pulling the fuse but that would defeat the whole purpose here.

Right, but there is a plug on the passenger side as well as the ash tray and center console. I would just like the center console one to go off when the ignition is off.

Just a reminder. Don't use the other plugs for the air compressor. It will blow the fuse. Maybe you should hard wire your device to an fuse that is on only when the ignition is on. That is how we do the radar detectors.

That would work. Can you tell me what fuse to tape into?

Take a look at the radar installation articles here in the articles section. I used the rear wiper fuse since I don't have that option. There is a schematic of your fuses in the fuse box cover to help you figure out what you have.

I just found out... it seem like all the plugs are always on!

izzy, izzy we try so hard: http://www.planet-9.com/faq.php?faq=miscellan#faq_idios see sockets.

Thanks for the tips on the rear wiper fuse. I will use that one as well, since I do not have a rear wiper as well.

Please explain this to me. How does this solve the issue?

If you tap to the rear wiper fuse, power wouldn't drain your battery down, since it will disconnect the power when ignition is off.

It doesn't "solve" it as much as provide a work around. Hard wiring the device to a fuse that is not hot when the car is off will mean in your case a little more owner experimentation to provide another socket somewhere I suspect but I'm not familar with the iTrip.

The itrip like any other FM modulator has a male lighter socket. So do I just need to get a loose female lighter socket and tap it to the wiper fuse? BTW, why is there an extra socket by the footwell wher ethe bose sub is located?

A new socket would work. The footwell socket is also hot all the time.

Just cut the normal car adapter off of the power cable and hard wire the remaining line into the fuse box. There is a whole bank of switched fuse connections there all in the same row. I can look up the numbers but all you have to do is check them with the car off, it only takes a second. Of course if you go that far just connect a wired ipod adapter like the iPlug.

Not quite true. There are only about 3 or 4 fuses that are switched and tappable in the entire box. I know, because I tapped and tested almost every single fuse when I was hardwiring an Escort 8500 radar detector, Garmin Nuvi 350, and XAct satellite radio tuner. Also, keep in mind that if you pull and replace certain fuses, you will get PSM errors and the like showing up in your display. Nothing to worry about, just drive the car around the block and the errors should reset themselves. If/when I have the time I'll take a photograph of my fuse box setup and post it.

So I see 2 possible solutions: 1. Rewire the center console lighter socket and connect it to a fuse that goes off when the ignition is off. or 2. Hardwire the iTrip to a fuse that goes off when the ignition is off. Does anyone have a preference or suggestion as to which solution is better? I assume it might be better not to alter the center console socket for warranty purposes?

Definitely #2. I wouldn't even bother trying #1 - the wiring back there is extremely complex, and re-routing the socket to a different fuse may void your warranty, or worse, completely mess up your wiring harness. The easiest way to do this would be to buy a 12V female socket with bare wires at the end and hardwire it to one of the switched fuses. You can then route this accessory socket to a location of your choosing and plug the iTrip into that.

Thanks for the info. Are there any instructions in removing the center console or Can I just tuck the wires underneath? I suppoe if I am hardwiring it, I could just put it in the glove box.

I did machine shop activities when I was in H.S. so I am a brain fart when it comes to electronics. Has anyone actually done this? I know it seem simple but if anyone can show us where exactly to tap that would be great.

Look at any of the radar detector articles in our articles sections for pictures of fuse box wiring and how to tips.

Thank you, will check!

Hello izzykman, I used the circuit C6 (third row down, sixth fuse over) and a device purchased at AutoZone called an Add-a-circuit. Add-a-circuit allows you to safely piggy-back a new circuit directly on top of an existing fuse while allowing the original circuit to carry its intended load and OEM amp rated fuse. Your new circuit can then be fused appropriately to meet its requirements. Regards, Joe

Just a follow up on what I end up doing. For everyone that helped... thanks! As we all know, all our outlets to power accessories are always "ON" so if we want to plug-in an accessory such as a navigator or a radar detector we end up manually turning it off or risk draining your battery. There are several hardwiring how-to's in the article section and this one also follow the same pattern by going through the fuse box. One thing I did to make it easier and only a little splicing and cutting is by purchasing this item from Radio Shack. 12VDC Car Power Accessory Outlet Model: 270-1556 | Catalog #: 270-1556 - Add another DC outlet to your car, boat or RV with this 12-volt power adapter outlet. (image below). It comes with a fuse already and you just connect the positive by using a fuse tap also at radio shack to a fuse that turns off when you shut-off the car like for the rear wiper and connect the negative to the hex bolt by the fuse box and you can easily tuck in all of the wiring or make a hole somewhere that make sense for you to use. Radio Shack also sells one so you can plug several devices.

So did you mount the outlet next to the fuse box, or mount it elsewhere? Take a few pics of your install. Definitely a new approach, thanks for sharing. icsplz:

I was going to make a hole and there are several locations you can do it, like on top of the fuse box. My concern was I might mess up the hole and I did not want to do that on a 60k car plus the wires might be in the way when I move my legs around. But I am sure a more gutsy installer can find a better mounting position for it if they want to go that route. What I found is that the whole thing fits inside the fuse box including another dual adapter (shown below) that bends in a 90º angle so I can use my Garmin Navi and the GPro2 Timer and it looks clean and out of the way because everything is covered with the carpet around the fuse box. Of course the disadvantage is it is not easy access to the adapter but I figured. If I ever want it out all I have to do is loosen 3 screws. I will post pictures later when I get home.