Performance transmission mounts

Hey, i have Function-First yellow engine mount insert and like what it did for the connection between the driver and the car. Very small additional vibration but better feel of connection. Now i'm thinking to add transmission mounts - please recommend from you experience. The car is 2010 Boxster S with PDK and used only for spirited/mountains driving and sometimes auto-x. No track and no daily. :thanks:

I just installed the wevo transmission mounts a month ago. Still have the stock engine mount (but have FF black inserts sitting on my workbench waiting to be installed). Car is daily driven with occasional Auto-X. No tracking yet. I only notice a small increase in vibration at idle... the rest of the RPM range seems normal. As for noise, I am getting a little buzz from the roof liner at ~3200RPM... no other new cabin noises. I've tried adding some little rubber shims to quiet it down, but haven't been able to pinpoint the exact spot yet. Shifting has gotten a little snappier, and the car seems more consistent when "diving" into turns. So far, I'm kicking myself for waiting so long to buy these. BUT, from reading the forums, it sounds like having upgraded engine AND transmission mounts is where the REAL noise and vibration kick in. Just one by itself is not bad, but the combination has been too annoying for several people. I've also heard it can give false signals to the knock sensor (which adjusts timing and ends up robbing HP). I have not seen a proven example of this actually occurring. Once I get the FF inserts installed, I'll be able to provide more info about the combination. I don't have any diagnostic tools for knock sensor data, so I won't be able to help with that argument.

I just installed these 3 weeks ago. Rennline Tunable Semi-Solid Engine Mount (Pair)-Rennline, Inc. I used the 2nd stiffest combination of parts and I get zero vibration at idle and no more NVH than normal while driving. I also installed the front engine mount at the same time HD Engine and Transmission Mount-Rennline, Inc.

Tarret and Rennline are selling good stuff IMO. The tunability of Rennline looks like a good bonus. With those "middle" inserts did you feel enough change in power unit movements?

I had the FF yellow engine mounts, and the RSS trans mounts - loved it. Much better feel. The noise/vibration in the cabin did suffer... but meh... it was worth it.

They provide 3 sets of inserts for each mount. You can mix and match, which gives you 9 options of various stiffness. I chose to use one of the stiffest coupled with one of the second stiffest. There was a huge improvement in how solid the car and suspension felt. It was noticeable immediately, I was surprised at how much it transformed the car.

And additional NVH is minimal? That sounds good! Can you tell exactly what part what color (or stiffness) you've used? Earlier today i have ordered the Rennline mounts. Also ordered their rear subframe tie bar. Will post on results.

Red is stiffest, blue is medium. I used red for the upper and blue for the lower.

Thanks !!! :dance:

Wow, I wish I would have seen the Rennline mounts earlier! They are priced about the same as Wevo and appear to be built exactly the same as wevo... but have user adjust-ability. Go for it!

thy're here :dance: Anything special to do during the installation? Or it's straightforward swap?

Even though the directions didn't require it, I used blue thread locker when preassembling on the bench. Take note of the orientation of the dog ears compared to the mount bracket. You don't want to be misaligned and then try to rotate them when they are torqued to spec while you try to bolt everything together. Assemble loosely on the bench, take it to the car do a trial fit, then go back to the bench and torque to specs. On the bench, I inserted the long bolts into the dog ears, then used a pry bar between the bolts to rotate, align, and ultimately tighten the assembly. Sounds like a lot, but actually only took 10 minutes per side once the old mount was removed. This is one of the easiest performance modifications that you can do.

thanks for the info ! should the mount be removed together with the black bracket?

Yes. Just 3 bolts. Easy job.

Any follow up on this yet? I'm about to pull the trigger on this setup myself.

That Rennline kit looks fantastic! Can't wait to hear what you think of it installed! I did finally get my FF black engine mount insert installed to "compliment" the Wevo transmission mounts I've got. With JUST the Wevo mounts installed, vibration increased a slight amount... enough to notice, but certainly nothing to complain about. Most noticeable vibrations are felt at idle or JUST above idle. Rear section of my headliner had a buzz noise at 3100RPM, but was fixed with a thin slip of cardboard stuffed between the plastic and metal (used a 2"x12" cut from coca-cola box). Describing the performance improvements is tough, but in general, there is less of a "slushie" feeling while turning. After installing the FF insert... the vibrations are MUCH more noticeable. I've only had the inserts in since Tuesday, so I don't have too much seat time yet. Vibration is most noticeable in the 2000-2500 and 3700-4200 rpm ranges. Luckily, cruising highway RPM for me is usually 2800-3300, so long trips shouldn't have any annoying vibrations. Again shifting feels even more crisp, and there is even less slush feel in turns. I'd say the transmission mounts contributed 75% of the improved performance while the engine inserts contributed the remaining 25%. BUT, I have not tried running the FF insert with stock transmission mounts. Therefore the engine mount insert could have a stronger effect if installed alone. I do want to note that my OEM engine mount was quite worn out. After removing it, I noticed some splits in the rubber. Since I was adding the FF insert, I didn't bother replacing the OEM mount. As I mentioned earlier, I'm worried about the knock sensor picking up false signals now. What's the best way to diagnose if it is getting extra readings? Durametric? I don't FEEL like I've lost any power, but my butt-dyno calibration fluctuates. Overall, I'm happy with both engine insert and transmission mount upgrades. NVH does not ever bother me unless it's something wrong with the car (wheel balance, broken trim clip, worn bushings, etc) Unless things start getting worse, or I find out my timing is being retarded by the knock sensor... the parts will remain installed.

Look at my posts #3 and #6

Got Rennline mounts installed few days ago. Went with Brian's recommendation. This combo felt by hand waaaay stiffer than stock mount (which are quite soft) - so i was concerned that it will be too much. But it was not. Even initial impressions from the NVH standpoint where quite good - a little more. On the very slight throttle at idle (think slow crawling over speed bump) it was nasty resonance - but those moments are quite rare. After that i had a long mountains trip - so mounts might got a bit softer because i don't recall having those resonance moments again. Anyway - the car feels like a go cart, really really fun. Everything is more immediate. Throttle application or release are felt through the back/but. I like it a lot. The ride is noticeably stiffer and bumpier now. I probably will set my sway bars one notch softer. p.s. i already had FF yellow insert installed.

planning on DIY'ing this. is a deep socket E24 required or will a regular sized E24 socket suffice?

my mechanic did - so i can't tell. i don't recall him using deep sockets. but i might be wrong... anyway - after driving some more i've decided that ride is too bumpy for me. i had a car jump with 4 wheels at 100 mph - something that it was near close to this before. i'm going to try softest inserts.

No deep socket needed. Are you on the OEM suspension? I converted to PSS9 coilovers, they are much more compliant than stock and they have much better damping characteristics and control.

i'm with stock PASM + Tarret sways + TPC's DCS computer ( PASM ecu ).

All: I tried Wevo Semi-Solid engine mounts on my '06 S last year. They were awful. Took them out after less than a week. I recently did a nice upgrade....Bought an Arctic silver console from Bumper Plugs, took my B&M shifter kit that's been sitting on the shelf in the box for an eon, bought an OEM Porsche upgraded shifter cable assembly, and took a set of black FF engine mounts that I'd purchased after the Wevos were removed, Took the whole shooting match to my tech on Wednesday and got the car back yesterday. LOVE the B&M shifter and love that the new cables feel nice a solid and that I won't have to worry that the old one will leave me stranded somewhere. I've read posts about that happening. I don't like the black FF engine mounts. Yes, everything is more direct, but there are some gritty vibes and noises getting in that I definitely do not like. Thinking of switching to yellow and getting a set of FF trans mounts....or just buying the trans mounts and using stock engine mounts. I use the car for street and plan to put a lot more miles on it. 2 easy DEs per year with non R tires . It's right "in the pocket" where it's still a comfy cruise with no suspension noises or non-stock feeling vibes but has very nice responses, no dash lights, passes emissions tests, doesn't bother the neighbors but sounds sporty. These mounts push it over into the "modded" car feel that I've tried very hard to avoid. I'd rather have sloppy old mounts than have it feel like a vibey race car. Been there. Done that. Gen 1s with near stock engines aren't cut out for track days anyway. Maybe when I blow the motor I'll call Vision, but I really enjoy just driving it around. Want to keep that stock cruising quality. Anyone got acquired wisdom on this? My main goal is to make it easier to start out from a full stop. It seems easy to over-rev or stall. I've had it 10 years and still stall it about once every month or two. How far must I go to help end that? Thanks for your help! :cheers:

Brian, I have had wheel hop on autocross starts, so I ordered a Function First motor mount (Orange) to help keep the engine from moving around a lot. I am keeping the transmission OEM for the time being, thinking of only changing one at a time to see how the NVH changes. You seem to have done both without an issue? My installer is balking to some extent saying I would not like the results, but I think using the Function First inserts is not like changing to a semi solid motor mount-my thought. On install, the OEM motor mount was totally shot, thats at 40K on the clock. Cantrell Motorsports asked if I really beat the crap out of my engine as these usually last to 80K. Anyway got a new OEM motor mount and the Function First Orange insert installed. I did notice a little more NVH at startup, but after that not so much. Engine is much more solid now, not moving around. The motor mount and insert will be useful for slalom runs in autocross as well as turnin and mid corner throttle modulation. Not sure about controlled power slide 10-12 degrees on exit. I will be ordering the FF transission pack for install later. Not sure I am going to change my suspenion just because I installed a stiffer motor mount. Maybe these is a connection, but I need more seat time to determine if the shocks need a little less compression/rebound or the swaybars set back one hole softer. In the mean time, I'm going to play with my new found Go Kart.

Ordered Rennline Tunable Transmission Mounts and Powerflex Yellow Engine Mount inserts. Did my servicing at 80k miles, changed out the plugs, walnut blasted the engine and swapped in the Rennline Tunable Transmission Mounts first. Since it came in Yellow 75A, Blue 85A and Red 95A, with Yellow being the softest and Red the hardest, I decided to have the bottom piece in Yellow and the top in Blue. I've read as many reviews on eh forums, and thinking it might be sportier, it would be something I could live with, even with the mild NVH that many were said to be experiencing with the Blues only, or even the Reds only. Picked up the car today and how wrong I was. NVH was obvious at idle, and I thought its bearable if this was just a mild vibration. The steering wheel picked up the vibration even before I moved off. Starting off, the car vibrates like a race car on a light weight flywheel racing clutch from 800-1500rpm. I've driven race cars that were a lot less noisy. I didn't expect the change to be so great. The juddering of the PDK during the clutching in, was amplified throughout the chassis, and any other expectations of a tight ride was set aside, and my senses were overwhelmed by looking out for the vibrations that were coming through with each gear change. I'm seriously wondering if the install was done properly, for it to vibrate so much, and that's without the Yellow Powerflex Inserts yet. On the move, the gearshifts are snappier, gearbox whine louder, and I could even hear pistons activated as the gears were being swapped and engaged. Going to drive like this for a week and if it doesn't get better, I'll swap it for full yellows. I'm still wondering if its a PDK slow clutch engagement issue, or something was wrong with installation.

Ya... I played around with "semi-solid" mounts for my ' 06 Cayman S . Absolutely the worst performance to comfort ratio I've ever tried...and I've tried a lot. For daily or even weekend enjoyment, try something else. I think these things may actually tear up the car a bit due to the extra shocks on the drive train. My new car has the electric mounts that change...whatever the name is. Supposedly, on Sport+, they're on the stiff setting. I can't notice a difference. I have individual set to Sport+ with the quiet exhaust setting. I don't like the popping in Sport and I don't really like the sound of the "Sport" exhaust ...and it doesn't seem to improve performance. So...if Sport+ in quiet mode has the stiff motor mount setting (manual sez yes) then these things don't seem to do much. I can't detect much difference at all starting off or in transitions or turns. I think this and throttle blip should have independent control. On my 2018, they're grouped with sport and sport+ settings. If you don't want auto-blip, for instance, it's normal mode only. ...not that there's anything wrong with that. I think the newest cars ( 992 etc) have auto-blip on a button...but still not the motor mounts. Can anyone confirm or deny? ?

I answered your question on ********, but I have history here, so I did have those FF Orange mounts installed last month along with a Wavetrac ATB LSD and a 996 oil/water heat exchanger. The FF Orange transmission mounts tightened up the engine and removed a clunk I heard coming from the rear passenger suspension. I am totally happy with all three additions.

Yeah, so I'm only wondering if I did something wrong during the install. Having a PDK , it did have the 0-4mph mild clutch judder, which is now amplified by the transmission mounts. if its a quick take off, no issues, but in normal city traffic is where I think its going to quite something to live with if it doesn't improve over the coming week

Update, I’ve swapped out the top blue piece 85A to the Yellow 75A hardness, and at the same time, put in the power flex engine mount inserts. The vibration is much less than and getting better by the day. Will give it a week before I check back in.

Ok so an update, I swapped in the adjustable mounts and inserts from fairly new transmission mounts and engine mounts, so the impact of rigidity performance is not as great VS worn mounts. But what the stiffer adjustable mounts did give, it took away some level of comfort. After it settled down for a week, I felt that I had lost a tad bit of horsepower. I had NVH judder from idle to 1800rpm as if the gear was too high and engine felt bogged down. To overcome this, I had to put it in sports mode or throttle a bit more at the initial pick up to reduce this NVH. Then just these 2 days, the NVH judder was only from idle to 1200 rpm. After which only the increased sound was the gearbox whine and shifting of gears. The handling was much better as the rear felt more solid. At the same time, I too now feel that the nose of the car feels a tad light. Where before I was a little conservative when I’m attacking corners and turns, now I move a little quicker and it reveals the inherent light nose character of the car. For those doing this, give it some time for it to settle down. Say 2-3 weeks,!including daily hard pulls to settle down the new mounts.

Hello All, I've been looking for feedback on semi-sold transmission mounts and I thought this info was excellent. I have been running the Rennline adjustable with the blue 85A durometer inserts, along with the Poweflex front engine mount polyurethane bushing and aluminum insert. The NVH is intolerable, possibly losing HP. I feel it at startup and while hard shifting. Definitely can't live with this setup. Most of the vibration is coming from the front mount. I will be reinstalling the stock 987 front engine mount and see how that feels, possibly changing to the yellow 75A durometer inserts if need be. I think if you are going to change anything at all, I would go for the transmission mounts as they are further away from the knock sensors.