14 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhat''s actually creaking? Control arms
Reported or suspected cause
retaining bolt may not ahve been fully torqued
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
I suspect the retaining bolt may not ahve been fully torqued so allowed the bolt to play in the hole.
Leading evidence: 'retaining bolt may not ahve been fully torqued' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'retaining bolt may not ahve been fully torqued' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace rear arms at some point' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've definitely pinpointed creak, I'll change the rear arms at some point.
Set (100nm) as these also work by clamping the bush
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Suggestion
If you do get the tracking done make sure on the rear that the eccentric bolts get torqued up correctly after it is set (100Nm) as these also work by clamping the bush.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
The mount in the sub-frame should clamp to the outer faces of the bush and be torqued up (120Nm) with the suspension on zero deflection as if sitting on the ground, I use my trolley jack under the hub until weight just comes off the axle stand to achieve this.
Set (100nm) as these also work by clamping the bush
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If you do get the tracking done make sure on the rear that the eccentric bolts get torqued up correctly after it is set (100Nm) as these also work by clamping the bush.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
The mount in the sub-frame should clamp to the outer faces of the bush and be torqued up (120Nm) with the suspension on zero deflection as if sitting on the ground, I use my trolley jack under the hub until weight just comes off the axle stand to achieve this.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I put my trolley Jack under the hub and torqued the retaining bolt though so I'm happy it's all good now.
My NSR control arm is creaking and I'm pretty sure I've pinpointed the creak with a stethoscope but I'm curious to what's actually happening and why it makes such a loud noise. I'm pretty sure it's not the ball joint but the bush where the concentric bolt is.
Is the rubber bush rotating inside its housing?
I'll have a proper look when I take the control arm off in a couple of weeks.
On my previous 996.1 the rubbers had dried out, I used some silicone lub spray in joints 👠they where find there after.
Worth a try if they look in good condition 👌
I'll try that thanks mate. I have can in the van. ðŸ˜
I've looked at other threads about this, I reckon the bolt is going to be rusted in that bush too and will need cutting out.
The rubber joints start to creak when the rubber becomes delaminated from either the inside or outside metal bush surrounding it. Lube is a temporary fix, but also good for pinpointing the source. Spray one joint, rock the car and repeat if the creak is still there to pinpoint the source.
Thanks mate. I've definitely pinpointed creak, I'll change the rear arms at some point. Just surprised how a bit of old rubber can make such a racket through the whole vehicle, sounds like a creaky old bed. 😆
Replaced all my control arms, top mounts, front tuning forks and rear toe links (basically everything with rubber in it). totally silent ride now. No substitute for fresh rubber bushes and they are tighter than old well used and time deteriorated rubber bushes so give a handling reward too.
Check out Spyder Performance on eBay (no personal links to them other than as a customer) for good but sensibly priced after market options.
What's the casting quality like compared with original. Im about to do the same thing and deciding between Meyle or Spyder. Which top mounts did you get?
I stuck Meyle control arms on the fronts and they're really nice, I was looking at Spyder a few days ago for the rear's as they're cheaper and look fine but think I'll go for Meyle again. I don't know what was put on mine but the control arms looked newish and shiny but unbranded and cheap and haven't lasted well, it certainly put me off buying cheap ebay ones.
What's the casting quality like compared with original. Im about to do the same thing and deciding between Meyle or Spyder. Which top mounts did you get?[/quote]
I stuck Meyle control arms on the fronts and they're really nice, I was looking at Spyder a few days ago for the rear's as they're cheaper and look fine but think I'll go for Meyle again. I don't know what was put on mine but the control arms looked newish and shiny but unbranded and cheap and haven't lasted well, it certainly put me off buying cheap ebay ones.[/quote]
Is it the rubber bushing that has failed or deteriorated quickly on the cheap ones or a different problem?
Remember cheap, unless you know the quality, is UFO = You fit often
I stuck Meyle control arms on the fronts and they're really nice, I was looking at Spyder a few days ago for the rear's as they're cheaper and look fine but think I'll go for Meyle again. I don't know what was put on mine but the control arms looked newish and shiny but unbranded and cheap and haven't lasted well, it certainly put me off buying cheap ebay ones.[/quote]
Is it the rubber bushing that has failed or deteriorated quickly on the cheap ones or a different problem?
Remember cheap, unless you know the quality, is UFO = You fit often[/quote]
Yeah I agree, I won't buy cheap. I haven't taken the rear control arms off yet to see what's happened. The rubber bushings on the fronts appeared to look ok, although I didn't inspect thoroughly, what had happened was the hole inside the bush had opened up which was rattling around on the subframe mounting bolts. Both sides too. But I've just found out my car has been tracked previously so I guess this led to faster failure of a cheap component.
I suspect the retaining bolt may not ahve been fully torqued so allowed the bolt to play in the hole. The mount in the sub-frame should clamp to the outer faces of the bush and be torqued up (120Nm) with the suspension on zero deflection as if sitting on the ground, I use my trolley jack under the hub until weight just comes off the axle stand to achieve this. If you do get the tracking done make sure on the rear that the eccentric bolts get torqued up correctly after it is set (100Nm) as these also work by clamping the bush. This wasn't done once on mine and I was getting a knock/creak/twang (not the 'snooker ball' knock of a tuning fork) as the bush moved in the mounting. It is difficult to get access to torque them with the wheels on.
Good info, yes you may be right about whether the bolt was torqued correctly especially as it's not doable without the right tools. I put my trolley Jack under the hub and torqued the retaining bolt though so I'm happy it's all good now. ðŸ‘
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