roof won't close - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Hi there! I got home today and trying to close the top but it won't. -No clicking noise -Emergency Brake is on I press on the switch but nothing is happening It's a 99 Boxster

question is the e-brake light ON

As Kabel said, first verify that the e-brake idiot light on the dashboard lights up when you pull up on the e-brake. If that light is on and you still get nothing, check these two fuses: B6 (convertible top double relay) D6 (convertible top motor) If all of that checks out, you will have to take a look at the parallel strip microswitch inside the latch assembly, as it notoriously develops hairline cracks which then render it unreliable and intermittent. Finally, you can check whether your electric motor has a problem by using a multimeter to make sure that you have power to the electric motor. Sometimes the electric motor that drives the cables gets dead spots and you end up with the exact symptom that you are describing. A multimeter to check whether you have twelve volts there when you press and hold the button (again assuming your e-brake idiot light is on) will help you isolate the problem. Regards, Maurice.

yup, make sure the light is on first i had a problem on mine, was loose microswitch, just needed a tap and it would work hahaha (kinda like old school Nintendo, only YOUR puff of breath the right way and direction works to get it going again). nut yeah, unscrew it and see if you can visually see a problem

Thank you very much, guys! The e-brake light is lit on the dashboard, both fuse are still good, I will check the rest of what Maurice suggested tomorrow at work coz' after I tap the switch (djomlas-nintendo style..hahahaha) it work :dance: Again, thanks guys...you guys are awesome

Unkle: If it works when you tap the switch (I'm assuming you are referring to the microswitch inside the latch assembly), then it's definitely that switch as it has been known to malfunction because of excessive heat in the cabin. When you have a hairline crack, the parts expand and the connection on the parallel strips is broken. Flowing a little solder on there usually fixes it. Let us know if you are referring to the dashboard switch, as that would be a first! Regards, Maurice.

I still say we need to make a section of the forum specifically for top issues. My guess is the most frequent two issues that drive people to the forum are the top not functioning and the smoke out the exhaust.

@ Maurice - it's the switch by the dashboard. When you said "microswitch inside the latch assembly", is that on the top of the windshield that's holding the tops when it's close or where you put the red clip? -Gerry @Kabel- I agree

Gerrry: It's one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly receptacle at the center of the top horizontal part of the windshield frame. I have a little writeup on those two switches in my other computer. I'll post it a little later when I get to that computer. If it's the switch on the dashboard, you may just have a loose connection behind that switch. You can pry out the small plastic panel on which the two switches (lock and convertible top) and the lighter receptacle sit and take a look behind it. Regards, Maurice.

I had this issue this morning. Checked fuses. Almost put in an order for a new top relay and decided to check the forums first. So I went out and sure enough the parking brake light was not coming on so I just smacked the parking brake and the light came on, top came up. So is this a micro switch for the parking brake? Anyone have the part number for that? Any idea on install difficulty? Thanks, Tim :troll:

Tim, that's almost the same thing that happen to me but since the warranty covers my top relay switch and the microswitch (hairline crack) on top of the windshield, I just have them replace it. I'll pick up the car tomorrow. If you still have warranty in your car, go see if they cover it. On mine, I didnt know that it's covered beside the other stuff that needs to be done with it.

Tim: On a 986, the part number for the parking brake switch is 996.613.112.01 (lists for about $5.00). DIY install difficulty varies: you either have to remove the center console, which then makes the removal and replacement of the switch very easy, or you can try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in the direction of the switch from the little access panel on the driver's side of the console, at the rear. Regards, Maurice.

i had two top issues this past month. The latch microswitch... Which i re-soldered for a temp fix, then replaced... Then I didn't get any power to the top motor...fuses were okay, so i took out the relay shot some aerosol duster on the relay and receptacle, and now it is working great.

I believe my problem is with the latch microswitch at the top center of the windshield. I conclude this because the problem is intermitent and the windows fail to lower whenever the top fails to move. So now I want to reflow the solder on the microswitch. My problem is I can't get the microswitch wire connector to disengage from the recepticle! So I've got the latch assembly dangling from the windshield. This makes it difficult to solder. What's the secret to removing the microswitch wire harness? Looks like there's a tiny hole with a tab in it. I've tried pressing a small metal piece in to depress the tab, but no luck getting the harness out. Any ideas? Thanks much.

fanderso...if you have an extended warranty, check it out. mine is 99 and thank goodness i bought one coz' most of the problems I had was fixed and paid by it, like the RMS/IMS, horn relay pad, top relay switch and the latch microswitch and it only cost me $50 deductible i paid $3,500 for the extended after market warranty 3 years ago :dance:

fanderso- The 2 electrical connections will come loose if you wiggle them a bit...Don't be shy..I couldn't get them at first. To remove those small circle metal clips, use a mini screwdriver or tweezers to bend the four triangle shaped "teeth" so they can slide up and off... i soldered mine, as a temporary fix, then ordered a new micro switch so it didn't leave me out in the rain somewhere with my top down,,, If you chose to replace the microswitch, they are $35 at Pelican Parts online.

thanks, unklekraker. I don't have an extended warranty but that is something I now wish I had. I bought my 2000S new, and after the warranty ran out I've been doing much of the repair work myself. Did you get your extended warranty from Porsche?

I see 3 wire harnesses connecting to the latch assembly. Two of them I was able to disconnect easily enough. But this 3rd harness which goes to the two metal strips can be slid within the socket a tiny amount, but it won't come out completely from the socket. I just don't get it. However, now that I've got the assembly loose, the motor for the top is working again. So my top problem definitely has something to do with this assembly. By the way, this problem occurred when I was lowering the top before heading home from the grocery store. It stuck halfway and I drove home with it halfway down. Luckily I wasn't too far from home. The next day I closed the top manually by following the "emergency operation" in the owners manual. That allowed me to drive it to/from work the rest of the week. And now I expect to fix the microswitch but wonder how I'm going to get these rods reconnected without damage. Any thoughts on that? Thanks much for all help.

@ fanderso3, I didn't buy it from Porsche. I got them when I bought my car at a third party dealer w/c at first..i was hesitant but after all the repair that was done..I would get another extended warranty on my next car :-) good luck and hopefully it get fix soon. by the way, I was in CO. last month @ Mark Dablings Blvd. and spend my afternoon @ Garden Of Gods. It was awesome!

Glad you like Garden of the Gods. Next time you need to visit Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park, if you haven't already done so! I'm still struggling with this connector. I've uploaded a photo of the stubborn connector and what tab I'm suspecting is the problem and trying to press while pulling on the connector. Am I doing this right? The connector isn't tight...I can wiggle it in the socket...but it won't come out. I've also highlited where I need to resolder. Does this look right? And I discovered another issue after removing the assembly. The next photo shows where a couple of wires were being pinched by the assembly. Any idea what they go to? My guess is the lights for the passenger vanity mirror. Thanks for all help.