7 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHOil Leak
Leading reported evidence
Repair on my previous 996
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Richard's and my indy did that repair on my previous 996.
Leading evidence: 'Repair on my previous 996' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair on my previous 996' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You can then remove the tensioner and replace the gasket without issue....
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Suggestion
What I would have liked to find is a nice clear DIY for changing the seal as a job in itself.
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Suggestion · Original poster
When the car is running there is now steady drip from this nut; up until now the engine has been dry...
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Porsche Club GB: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T060112Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi,
Moved the car out of the garage today and noticed an oil leak!? I have had a good look with the car jacked up and its not the RMS (good news) but it is coming from a large nut just forward and up from the oil filter. I believe this is a chain tensioner (approx 30mm nut). When the car is running there is now steady drip from this nut; up until now the engine has been dry...
I have done some searching and it appears that others have had a similar leak and it appears a simple fix (crush washer under the head of the nut). The parts catologue illustration 103-11 item 35 I think, shows a o ring and a sealing ring?
A few questions for those that have done this job.
Can you safely loosen the bolt without affecting the timing?
Will I drop all the oil by undoing this?
Which seals do I need, just the sealing ring or the o-ring too?
Any help appreciated
Many thanks
Jetbox
I think you need to be very careful. I believe you have to get the cams in a certain position to take the load off the chain, or you risk jumping a tooth. I would have a word with an indy if I were you. It may cost a few quid more, but would avoid an expensive mistake.
hi i had a similar problem and tried a tempory fix which has a sucsess for about five months now i backed the tensioner off 2 or 3 turns cleaned the oil away and applied some ptfe tape around the threads and tightened it back up it may be worth a try
Hi, Thanks for the replys. Richard, I am not aware of any independants around Aberdeen, only the OPC. I am happy to DIY if I know the correct procedure etc. Is there a clear description of this in the workshop manual? Slick0007, This sounds like a possible solution thats worth a try. thanks
Richard's and my indy did that repair on my previous 996. There is a PH thread on it relatively recently somewhere. The fix involved taking out a spark plug (can't remember which one) and blowing the engine to TDC with compressed air. You can then remove the tensioner and replace the gasket without issue.... or something like that. For Pete's sake don't take my word for it though!!!
Well I've spent the last 40 minutes looking at the workshop manual, and it isn't crystal clear to me. What I would have liked to find is a nice clear DIY for changing the seal as a job in itself. No such luck. It is described in the section showing how to set up the camshaft timing
for cylinders 4-6
. This is my interpretation of the procedure:
Turn crankshaft clockwise until it reaches the No 1 cylinder top dead centre mark on the crankshaft pulley, and the groove in the end of the camshaft points towards the crankcase. (However, I can't work out if this is TDC on the firing stroke or exhaust stroke.) Unscrew the auxiliary chain tensioner, fit new sealing ring and torque to 80Nm.
The book time for the job is 36 minutes. Up to you if you want to give it a go yourself.
thanks. It sounds simple.... I will have a think about the best way forward. I will let you know thanks for taking the time to look in the manual Jetbox
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