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YOUR RESEARCHEngine coolant level *usefull info*
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distance
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Leading evidence: 'distance' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'distance' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check after a good 10+ mile' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Reported cause · Original poster
This is due to the vacuum created on the coolant system when the engine is running.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
(The X51 has three rads and I had two of them replaced)
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When Cambridge OPC changed my rads in December they said they had run the system, but not had enough time to test drive it and guarantee the air bubbles had been removed.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The level should be checked after a good 10+ mile run with the engine still running.
Check coolant by making sure level is between marks
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Suggestion
Owner's manual says check coolant by making sure level is between marks on tank when car is cold & level, to top up unscrew top & fill with a/freeze to full mark...
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Suggestion
Owner's manual says check coolant by making sure level is between marks on tank when car is cold & level, to top up unscrew top & fill with a/freeze to full mark...
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Thought this info may come in very useful to some except Dan.
Low coolant on a 996, 993 & 997 is serious. The level should be checked after a good 10+ mile run with the engine still running.
Do you know the correct way to bring your coolant to the required level?
Most would think remove cap and fill until the water is in-between min & max on the reservoir.... WRONG!.
It takes two people; the car needs to be held at a steady 4000RPM while you fill the reservoir to the max line. Still holding at 4000RPM screw the cap back on as firm as possible. Job done.
Lloyd,
I hope you know how many Porsche owners are going to be reving their cars to 4k on Sunday because of this post.
You forgot to post:
"
Fully warm the engine before hand to safe gaurd from engine wear"
and when you post it then your going to have to explain why this is.
Then they will want to know the finite detail.
This may well become the longest post in the world ever due to all the Newbies ( including all the 1st Porsche TT owners may I add) not that i'm totally greeeeen with envy or anything.
Yep mines full! :thumb: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
And can you imagine letting the wife try to rev the car to just 4k!
How acurate is that going to be?
Good point, warm engine a must but gloves... nah, with the cap off the water sucks downward because of the rads being at the front, so it is pretty safe.
Confused!! Owner's manual says check coolant by making sure level is between marks on tank when car is cold & level, to top up unscrew top & fill with a/freeze to full mark... no mention of the protocol described above????? Where has that info' come from? :?:
This is information from OPC techy with 20+ year Porsche experience. Owners manual is pants.
Checking when cold on a level is a guide only.
Many a time you get Porsche owners complain that the water-level light is flashing but when they check the level as per the manual it seems fine. This is due to the vacuum created on the coolant system when the engine is running. The water level can drop by several inches at 2000RPM+ leaving the sensor in the dry hence the warning light.
Checking Coolant Level
Very timely post guys! .... so if my 996 is on the min line when the engine is cold (which I spotted on Saturday). Do I need to SERIOUSLY think of topping up now?
I have no warning lights and no signs of over heating but it's a week end car and does not do much mileage.
And what am I putting in it?
I probably now need to explain that I'm a lady owner...and I usually run it to the garage for such things!
I've heard that you can run the 993 without coolant perfectly safely.
And I'm damned if I would want to remove the coolant cap when the engine is stinking hot..........
Revving the nuts off the car was part of the bleeding process described in the original workshop manual. They ditched that method and now recommend a vaccum purging device.
Re: Checking Coolant Level
Well I know a lady that happens to be one of the best techies I have ever met!
Anyway... depends on what colour the liquid is. Long life is Pinkish Red, normal Ethyline Glycol (SP?) is Green or Blue. Just be sure to top up with same colour and you will be fine.
Anytime you need help drop a PM, I will do my best... that goes for anyone.
Also, as it is the weekend another useful tip is to keep the front rads clear of leaves etc... DO NOT use your hands, you never know what gets in there, dead mice, syringes etc... use a vacuum cleaner, through the front vents down into the air dams. (This is part of an OPC service)
Another why, sorry.
Why is it "serious"?
I can understand if coolant is very low or leaked out then that's serious...but surely gauges will show when coolant is not, erm, cooling properly?
When the engine is warmed through my gauges are rock steady at the same temp every time.
Low coolant means not cooling the engine means gauges are showing higher temp than usual, no? Leading you to think there's a cooling system problem that warrants attention.
993
oops!!!! Teach me to write these things at work while doing other things at the same time!
Reminds me of when I was on a YTS 20 years ago... I was asked to price up a radiator for a 1972 Beetle!
I tend to think the "point" is being lost here. The reason for topping up the coolant like this tends to be needed only when the system is being refilled after either a substantial leak or coolant replacement. It's used to get the coolant flowing at a rate of knots through the system to assist purging the air pockets that are inevitably caught in a system such as the 996 etc due to the long coolant pipe runs, multiple rads etc. If the system was purged properly from the start, topping up should only require adding water as per the manual. In fact, one should ask where their coolant has gone anyhow as the system shouldn't be losing any fluid.
Funny how when my coolant was low after JZ replaced my rads - the trip home must have moved some air pockets through the system - Steve told me to just top up with some fluid as per the manual. I did, and all has been well since.
Also, unless you want a good scalding, this idea or driving 10 miles then refilling is a recipe for disaster for the unwary. Can anyone say scald!
My 2cents..... slag it off as you will....
Two points:
Firstly, the 4k rpm thing is to purge system of air locks after a coolant change.
It is not a monthly check. It is due to distance to rads etc. When Cambridge OPC changed my rads in December they said they had run the system, but not had enough time to test drive it and guarantee the air bubbles had been removed. This is particularly important when new dry rads have been fitted as the interior may take time to completely "wet"
Any way, they simply advised me to drive normally for 25 mins and check and refill the header tank. By the time I reached home (18 miles) I had to top up about 100/150 ml. (The X51 has three rads and I had two of them replaced)
Secondly:
Not true. Driving without coolant in a 993 is VERY dangerous. In fact it is almost always fatal within minutes (unless breathing apparatus or other precautions are taken)
