987.1 2.7L power improvements and costs

I have been perusing all the old threads here on increasing power with a variety of mods. I just wanted to crowdsource a thread to consolidate the potential HP/torque gains of different mods and their costs. My hunch is that many of these will work out to be more cost-effective than buying a faster car, but let's see what the data says. This is a work-in-progress and I will update this table as I collect/correct information. Modification ​ HP gain Torque gain Price (new) $/HP gain Notes TPC Turbo Kit 100+ 50+ $11,000-12,457 +35 labor hours ~$200+ (incl. est. labor, not incl. supporting mods) May require supporting mods 987 dyno reports 981 dyno reports Flat 6 Innovations Engine Upgrades Includes all supporting mods Stage 1 ​ 50+ ? $20,000+ ~$400 Based on this thread Stage 2 ​ 100+ ? ? ? Based on this thread Stage 3 ​ ? ? ? ? Softronic ECU Tune ​ 15 13 $895 ~$60 Vendor reported gains SRP Kit ​ 30 10 $2,495 ~$85 SRP dyno reports Exhausts Capristo Exhaust/Headers/Cat (987.1)​ 23 11 $8,900 ~$390 Vendor reported gains Capristo Exhaust/Headers/Cat (987.2)​ 32 27 $8,900 ~$280 Vendor reported gains Capristo Exhaust/Headers/Cat (987.2)​ 15 18 $6,200 ~$413 Vendor reported gains Fabspeed Supercup (987.1)​ 12 10 $2,417 ~$201 Vendor reported gains (crank) Fabspeed Maxflo (987.1)​ 6 5 $2,857 ~$477 Vendor reported gains (crank) Fabspeed Supercup (987.2)​ 20 15 $2,417 ~$120 Vendor reported gains (crank) Fabspeed Maxflo (987.2)​ 14 13 $2,857 ~$205 Vendor reported gains (crank) FVD Race Exhaust w/ Cat Bypass (987.2)​ 20 19 $4,620 ~$231 Vendor reported gains; more expensive variants with the same HP/TQ gains excluded FVD Race Exhaust w/ Cat Bypass (987.1)​ 20 19 $4,710 ~$235 Vendor reported gains; more expensive variants with the same HP/TQ gains excluded FVD Street Exhaust w/ 200 Cell Cats (987.2)​ 25 26 $6,667 ~$267 Vendor reported gains; more expensive variants with the same HP/TQ gains excluded FVD Sport Exhaust w/ 200 Cell Cats (987.2)​ 28 25 $6,746 ~$241 Vendor reported gains; more expensive variants with the same HP/TQ gains excluded Trade in 987.1 2.7L for $17,500 For a 987.1 3.4L ($25K)​ 50 50 $7,500 ~$150 Wikipedia Cayman HP/TQ For a 987.2 2.9L ($27.5K)​ 16 20 $10,000 ~$625 Wikipedia Cayman HP/TQ For a 987.2 3.4L ($32.5K)​ 70 70 $15,000 ~$215 Wikipedia Cayman HP/TQ For a 981 2.7L ($32.5K)​ 16 6 $15,000 ~$940 Wikipedia Cayman HP/TQ For a 981 3.4L ($40K)​ 65 65 $22,500 ~$350 Wikipedia Cayman HP/TQ

I'd wave off on the Turbo, you can't just slap that on without stressing the rest of the engine to the point of premature failure. There's no free lunch there, the lower half would need robust improvements. In fact, the truth is buying the HP from Porsche makes the most sense, that's my opinion anyhow.

Yeah I have seen some threads on TPC turbo installs, and folks do opt for bunch of improvements related to cooling/oiling. I don't see how that disqualifies turbos though, it just gets included into the cost (similar to the upgrade packages by Flat 6 Innovations). I do eventually want to compare with paying Porsche for HP, still working on it. Considering just the base NA Caymans , the HP gains are not much between generations: 987.1 2.7L: 245 HP / 201 lb-ft / $20,000 987.2 2.9L: 261HP / 221 lb-ft / $27,500+ 981 2.7L: 275HP / 207 lb-ft / $32,500+ Assuming your 987.1 2.7L sells for $17,500, you're looking at $15,000+ for +26HP with a 981 2.7L. Considering the Cayman S (which seem to have a greater bore scoring risk, that puts me off): 987.1 3.4L: 291 HP / 251 lb-ft / $25,000+ 987.2 3.4L: 315HP / 273 lb-ft / $32,500+ 981 3.4L: 311HP / 266 lb-ft / $40,000+ Assuming your 987.1 2.7L sells for $17,500, you're looking at $15,000+ for +70HP with a 987.2 3.4L. If you want to keep the bore scoring risk low by sticking with a 2.7/2.9L, it seems like paying Porsche for HP is not very compelling.

When considering costs, one should also consider resale value. Getting the HP via turbo is likely to lead to lower resale value (of the combined car/turbo) than getting a faster Porsche . I’m curious about the percentage of 3.4 liters which have bore scoring? Is it high enough to stay away from them?

OP, The 981 2.7L Cayman came from factory as 275HP and not 261 as you have posted (#3)

Or a 3.2 swap from a an 06 Boxster S ...

In terms of HP numbers I’m pretty sure the 987.2 in 3.4 liters came with 320 while the 981 had 330. These are for the Cayman . Perhaps the Boxster had a tad less?

Yes the 3.2L in the 05 and 06 987.1 Boxster S had less power (285hp) BUT, its also (according to Jake Raby) one of the most reliable M96 /97 engines as far as IMS and Bore Score goes. Even better, I have one for sale Julian

Corrected; thank you! Edit: I got the 261HP number from Wikipedia , someone needs to fix that.

This is a good point. To add some data to this, I pulled all the turbo- Cayman listings I could find on BringATrailer (the comments are also useful to gauge buyers' sentiments on the turbo): Make/Model Mileage Auction End Date Selling Price 2008 Cayman S 6-speed 31,000 November 2023 ( link ) $35,500 2007 Cayman S 6-speed 51,000 June 2023 ( link ) $34,000 2007 Cayman S 5-speed (auto) 18,000 April 2022 ( link ) $31,250 (RNM) 2008 Cayman S 6-speed 65,000 May 2020 ( link ) $27,000 2006 Cayman S 6-speed 58,000 October 2018 ( link ) $25,250

I pulled the numbers from Wikipedia !

This was not on my radar at all, thanks for pointing out another option! I asked F6L about upgrading my 2.7L engine just a few weeks ago (to one of their Stage 1 or Stage 2 builds), they are not doing 2.7L ones right now unfortunately.

IMO, I'd just run a good tune and get a free flowing exhaust . Then perhaps look at pulling weight out of the car rather than trying to get more out of that engine.

Yeah I'm trying to back this prevailing wisdom up with some data. Based on what I have so far, a tune costs the least dollar per HP. I'll look for how effective exhausts are.

I think the solution (for me) might indeed be reducing weight, thanks @uniquenamehere for the suggestion. I love the HP/TQ in the 2.7L 987.1 Cayman when it's just me and my luggage in it, but I find it slow when I have a passenger and/or pet and their luggage in it. I didn't think ~150 lbs more in the car would make a perceptible difference! This is what made me look for performance mods. Sketching out the idea of reducing weight: The way I like, it, the car has a power-to-weight ratio of (245HP)/(3000lb) = 0.082 (ignoring my weight). With 150lb more in the car, I find it slow; the power-to-weight ratio then is (245HP)/(3150lb) = 0.078. Adding a Softronic tune, the (ideal) power-to-weight ratio becomes (245+15HP)/(3150lb) = 0.083 As a reference, my Audi S3 has a power-to-weight ratio of 0.084, and I find it too fast! Weight reduction while maintaining liveability seems doable too (nice thread on this), I could maybe reduce 40lb without being too hardcore (remove toolkit and put in a $1000 antigravity battery will do it).

I could probably stand to lose 40 lb of body weight ... that would get me down to my high school weight. Maybe better Porsche performance will be my incentive.

Just a couple of thoughts- Any real power increase you obtain after spending much money and time will become the "new normal" for you after just a few months. Then you're back to plotting and scheming and spending again. It's a vicious cycle. The perception in your butt dyno of increased power due to weight savings is just as real but probably marginally cheaper. The stock seats are boat anchors. Shell seats. The full carpet set probably comes in at significant weight. Lightweight or no carpet. Tires and wheels can be optomized. Oh, wow, I just spent $15k! I like your very last option. A newer version of the Cayman with factory power increases. Good resale when even that becomes the new normal. Even better, enjoy what you've got!

With forced induction on so many car brands/models nowadays, it's hard to beat them $ per $ power-wise, I would put my money on how to make it look good, feel good and sound good but of course to each his own.

Thanks everyone for these inputs. I had the chance to drive a 2017 718 Cayman base for about 6 hours today, up and down the Angeles Crest Scenic byway. The 718 is a lot more powerful than my 987, but I was largely unable to use this power. I only had fun in short bursts of WOT. So I guess I now realize 300HP+ is too much for me.

Love this approach and I now fully agree.

To the many of us that live in parts of the world with few corners and curves, you drive a stake of jealosy into my heart talking about driving the ACS. So many cool twisty roads in your area. Those are precisely where the base Cayman can shine over higher powered cars. As Crosby/Stills/Nash wrote "Love the one you're with!"

Haha I was visiting LA for work, had some time off and rented the 718 on Turo! I live in upstate NY where we do have twisties but you have to wait for the weather to cooperate. I totally understand your plight! I just drove the hour back home from the airport in my 987 2.7L with a newfound appreciation for hearing the engine rev, taking highway exits at speed to feel the Gs (and not exceeding 50mph), and feeling the road through the steering.

this is engine stuff I've done for my 987.1 S 3.2: 4” Underdrive crankshaft pulley from Pedro’s Garage (5-7 hp), IPD Plenum and Bosch 74.5mm throttle body (+14-15 HP and TQ), Pure Performance Catback Valved Exhaust $1700, from London, England 94.5db open (aka: Soul Perf. USA) (8-10hp) Your results may vary ha. I do feel like the numbers equated to the same relative feel. the under drive pulley would be the best bang for the buck at $200 and the exhaust was the most fun and turned the car into a real sports car sounding vehicle and improved my heal toe because I could hear it so much better. Interstate INTMT-MX-5 “ Miata Battery ” 19.6 lbs.+Bracket 0.86 lbs / 20.46 lbs total Stock Battery - Odyssey AGM 94R-850 54.4 lbs. (Saves 33.94 lbs.) the exhaust saved 10 lbs and the pulley saved nothing but if you take out the "tool panel" you lose 26 lbs

Harvey F- Harvey, your comments remind me the times many decades ago, I got hooked into sailboat racing in the SF Bay, off shore, and in the Calif. Delta. My wife had her own race boat! Spent lots of money on new go fasts, i.e. Mylar and Kevlar sails, new, hand-sanded smooth bottom coatings, etc. One bad tack (a turn for you land lubbers) and it was all a waste . LOL. Drive it like you stole it. Art formally, "last one"

I didn't know about this “ Miata Battery ”! Super cool.

Wait a minute here, I race Autocross where weight is important, but being able to crank over your car on hot days after 3 runs and it wont start is too much. So, I've gone back to a regular battery that will start the car. Ford Mustang with a super light battery also failed, we just pushed him off the course. Too bad. He sat there a couple of hours until runs were over and jumper cables were available.

I'm with you back in the day, Victoria BC to Maui 86, middle of the Pacific with an aluminum 47 ft IOR race boat, fleet of 35, a cloud burst downdraft snuck up behind us gusting to 50. I was driving, spinnaker, blooper, main and locked boom all in the water. Mast stayed on the boat thank god, but it was sure a test for the equipment. I had a few sail patches to sew on that afternoon. Finished 4 over all, so not bad with a 10 man crew of dingy "star" racers. I never raced blue water again as the risk/reward was not there for me.

I have had better luck with the Miata battery than that I did all day at Laguna Seca I had no problems I did have my big battery in the paddock because I wasn’t sure whether it would work but I did. maybe the longer runs doing eight laps in a session let the battery charge up I haven’t done auto cross but I imagine you’re doing pretty short runs waiting starting the car up again another short run that’s pretty taxing on the battery

(A bit late to this discussion) Who remembers those fast 90's 911 Carreras with a whopping 247HP? Honestly, a lead foot like me will end up in jail if I wrung out a 300HP car like I drive my 2.7. I get it up to 85-90MPH just on a freeway entrance ramp, then try to keep it below 80 to fly below the radar. Challengers and Mustangs and newer 911s sometimes fly past me, but I'd rather keep my license intact. BTW, a newer Camry has 300+HP; have you considered one of those (just kidding)? ETA: I just realized this is my first post after lurking for so long. Sorry for coming in with so much snark as an introduction!

I learned a long time ago it's way more fun to really push a slow car then limp around a really fast car. Now if you have a GT car I would like to borrow it for a few hours.

I learned this only recently, after buying a 2.7L 987 to complement my 300HP Audi S3. Now I'm looking at Elises and Miatas.

Now there is a comparison Elises and Miatas.