Need Advice - 987.1 Track Car/Seasonal Use

Hello ……. New member here. I’ve been eyeing 987.1 /2s for awhile. I’m interested setting up an occasional track car and seasonal occasional daily driver. I am aware of the 987.1 's IMS potential issues and prepared to have the bearing replaced if I go that route if not accomplished already. Also, while some look for bone stock cars for future value, I am not. If a car is set up for my needs, thats less money I need to spend on a stock chassis. I’ve located a 2006 Cayman S . 100K miles. It has IDP Plenum, GT3 TB, Desnorkled Intake, Softonic Tune, Catless Headers, Fabspeed Supercup Exhaust, Numeric Shifter , etc. The car is out west. The owner says it hasn’t been tracked, Street raced or Autocrossed - just liked tinkering with things.🤔🤔🤔. It has no accident history. Ive read that the mods listed above can produce Error Codes etc especially in colder temps. Looking at the year, miles, and mods, could you please lend me advice on what could be potential problem areas, things to look out for, and things I should ask. Also, for what I am looking for to do with the car, while the engine is pulled for an IMS bearing replacement, what other items should I consider to piggyback while the engine is pulled - clutch recommendation, etc. Really appreciate your help.

Well, for starters, the IMS bearing on the 2006 987.1 has a very low failure rate. You cannot cost effectively "replace" the bearing, which can only be purchased integral to the IM shaft. You can remove the bearing "seal" and get some splash lubrication on it. I don't want to get a reputation as Debbie Downer but based on my personal survey of one (my 2007 Cayman S with 100K miles) it is a little bit of a crap shoot to suddenly put this car into track use, even occasional, without going through the engine. And introducing some track durability upgrades. More details here- (article 1 of 4) 2007 Cayman S 987.1 – Full Engine Rebuild – Why? My friend Greg said “Only a crazy person would rebuild a Porsche engine that is running fine.” Greg, I agree! As per my thread on this car, I bought it 2 years ago. I think I just beat … newhillgarage.com

No worries on Debbie Downer - honesty is what I’m seeking. If I deicide to put an offer in, it will be contingent on a full chassis and engine inspection including compression checks, scoring checks and engine oil analysis. Appreciate your honesty - thanks!

Perhaps an 05 or 06 Boxster S is an option that should be considered? The 3.2 M96.25 engine is the most reliable (.1 gen S engine of the 987s) as far as IMS and bore scoring (cast pistons). Has a factory roll bar Roof up or down (but especially down) sounds GREAT Cheaper than a Cayman

987.1 M97 motors: these motors require a lot of attention if you want to track it. First off, I’m not sure tracking or sticking that kind of cash into a motor that old will fare well (long term). IMS bearing cannot be swapped out on the M97 motors, it s a full motor tear down 20-30k). Bore scoring is another big Deborah-downer.. this is probably more common than the IMS especially on these older high mileage years and age doesn’t always have everything to do with it.. now as the person above stated you can run an oil line to the IMS , that helps. A dry sump is another good mod along with center radiator…these are forsure things to consider… frequent oil changes and no long warm ups is the other.. there is just no telling how this was cared for the past 15 plus years and it’s really tricky IF your on a budget… rebuilds are really 25-30k. If it were me, I’d look at the 986 boxsters. I’m starting to see them well below 15k again…

Great info - really appreciate everyone’s input.

Does the M96.25 motor used in the 2006 Boxster S have captive, unserviceable IMS bearings or can the IMS bearings be replaced?

it’s all based on build date which you can find on the LN site or it’s just guessing. heres another way to tell

Go watch the PCA Tech Tatic videos on IMS bearings and bore scoring. The 987.2 solves the IMS problem but the bore scoring still seems to be an issue with those too. After you finish scaring, uh educating yourself, I'd say the sweet spot price wise is a Non S Cayman 987.1 with a PPI video inspection to determine that bore scoring has not already started. If you get past that hurdle, then you can do some of the preventive things for your occasional track days and not worry about it. Proably the best thing is to drop in some of the track oriented oils like LN recommends and maybe a center radiator. There are a lot of Caymans at track events. The massive failures are the exception, not the rule. Avoid GT3 wanna be cars like the one you originally posted about. Just stick with a good stock car on street tires , not R-comps or slicks. You'll have plenty of fun. BTW, before you jump into a Boxster , or any convertible, check what the rules are at the track you are most likely to run at. Some tracks insurance regulations penalize convertables. I won't go into specifics because it seems to be track specific (versus promoter specific).

So let me ask. if your were looking to track a car 4 times a year and use as a part-time daily driver seasonally (garaged in the winter) what model Cayman and Boxster would you recommend up to 2012? What would be the preferred transmission for your pick? Thanks!

You need to specify a price limit. The easy answer is 2012 Cayman R

Any Boxster or Cayman is going to be as much a blast on track as it is on road. I've had so many great drives and miles in my 06 Boxster S manual that I would have no hesitation recommending it. Having said that, its been written off now and so I am looking to replace it with a 987.2 Boxster (S preffered but base in the right spec would be fine also), just for a new experience.

My answer Cayman R is a little bit flippant. I see on BAT they are selling from $50K to $100K. For that money, buy the early Cayman , and mentally tag the money you saved for a rebuild.

Your Right - $35K May to $40K including a few mods. What Mods do you recommend for track use?

The R is a bit out of the budget right now. I hear used car prices are coming down so a few more months might work to my advantage.

If you are new to the track, I don't recommend any performance mods, because you are going to realize at some point that the car, stock, is much better than the driver. And if you only go 4 times a year or so, that situation won't change too quickly. Of course, tires and brakes in good stock condition are a must and a good inspection by a qualified shop to identify anything that needs being brought up to snuff. In good stock condition, the 987 is a very capable car.

Beautiful!! Great advice - thanks. Do you prefer the Boxster or Cayman ? Wife I know would enjoy a convertible. Also, I’ve read the PDK has had problems with hard use. What transmission do you recommend for what I intend?

Since I have been driving manual transmission cars all my life I am biased in that direction. You are correct that the PDK is another level of complexity that might bite you from a maintenance standpoint. That said, Porsche makes a very solid product or they wouldn't be in the position where they are today. Just speaking for myself, the only way I would consider a PDK is if my left leg was shot or I had a stop and go commute or if someone was going to drive the car that couldn't drive a manual. The manual is certainly more engaging. FYI the clutch/flywheel in the manual cars seems to have a lifetime of 60K to 80K miles. Just something to consider as you look for a car. Funny, my wife hates convertibles!

I’m leaning toward a Cayman , she’d prefer the convertible automatic - happy wife happy life😂! I’m open to either - what ever pops up👍. Do you guys have any experience with the Boxster factory hardtop or the Cayman style hardtop? Are they pretty secure, leak proof, etc? Thanks!

If you get either car, I would gravitate towards the .2 models (09-12). I can’t speak for all the .2 non-S models but S’s do not have an IMS bearing and bore scoring is real rare… so spend a little more to save a lot more. These are the 9A1 motors

I have no experience with the Boxster , including the tops. I do see them with the fixed hardtop. I believe there is a factory version and an aftermarket version but don't quote me on that. Bearing in mind my comment about the requirements of your local track, I think the hardtop pretty much satisfies most track's requirements for rollover protection during a track event. It also will extend your driving season to some extent.

Great info guys - really appreciate it👍👍

I think you'll find the factory roll-over bar behind the seats satifies this requirement.

Cayman - Did you actually see the 06 Cayman or was it on the web? If you actually saw the car, you will have some feelings about how it presented itself to you. Was the paint and polish correct, was the interior perfect. How was the current tires ? Did you take the car for a drive? How is the clutch, transmission, brakes, springs and shocks. Just saying there are a number of Porsche owners who modify their cars, but never totally use them. Now down to business of your M97 engine . Get a bore scope done, if that's clean then, ask about engine oiling modifications. Hopefully the owner has put in LN deep sump system. If so, have your PPI check engine over revs. You can tell if the car has had track time with the over rev report. At the selling point, all the modifications the owner made was on him. In most cases, they detract from the selling point. I've got a lot of modifications done to my car over the years, but now just enjoy its utility as a sports car and a road bike hauler. However, for you, the 4 track days a year will certainly make an impression on both you and your wife. Check out Hartech new engine sump that puts the M97 engine into another level of enjoyment for the Cayman . No longer oil starvation from high G loading corners with sticky tires . Look it up on ******** 996 engine oil pressure instability. This was noticed on Brandon's 987. The M97 is mid engine on 987 while its rear engine on 996.

Talked to a few tuners and as some of you have alluded to, they prefer the 987.1 because there is much more latitude to tune than the next gens. They said too that the .2 motors and above have softer cylinder sleeves and piston rings and more emissions standards that make tuning and engine longevity more of a challenge than the .1 motors. They also said that IMS bearing failures are really rare. what’s your take on this?

All great info. Right now I am in the research phase and gathering as much i do and advice as I can before I’m ready to pull the trigger. The one car I referenced is on FB Market Place. I have not seen it, just messaged the owner a few times. There is a lot to learn and consider before going forward. You all have been a tremendous help.

They’re wrong about .2’s having softer sleeve materials if that’s what they meant.. bore scoring is the biggest issue with the .1 motors, were .2 motors don’t have bore scoring issues…. Well it’s real rare but not unheard of As for tuning any of these flat 6 n/a, you won’t get much in any of them.. maybe 10-15hp IF you have the headers, exhaust .. the ipd plenum and filter imo was a big waste of money.. Porsche does t leave much on the table for improvement

Late to this thread, but as a former 987.1 owner that did a lot of track days with it I thought I'd add a few comments. We bought our 987.1 Boxster new --getting out of a '99' 986 ---with the purpose of doing a lot of track days with it. 18" rims, PASM , manual, sport chrono and Sport + seats were the high point of the options. We put --on average--6-8 track days a year on it with 2 drivers, on tracks like Mid-OH, VIR, Nelsons and WGI with no issues. We had 42K miles on it when we traded it on a 981 and it still ran like a clock. No big cam variance numbers when we checked the function on the ECM. Very few over revs in the rang 2&3 zone and no oil usage. I always used LiqiMoly 5-40 in it, used exterme performance street tires rather than R comps, used pagid yellows with Motul 600 fluid in the braking system. No issues with brakes on any tracks with that combo. The only real mod was a rear brace which I think helped a bit in tight turns. No tunes, engine mods or anything else At 240HP it was down on power relative to some other cars, but I could hang with most in the twisties. It was great fun and I'd recommend this type of car to anyone as a dual purpose car for street and track, as long as you can deal with the occasional knuckle heads that don't allow you to pass when you catch them in a turn. Best of luck with your search.

Depending on your race budget, you to could be playing Randy in this movie. All it takes is a great roller and a Slakker Racing Engine. I really like this movie as it shows exactly what the bones of the 987.1 Cayman are capable of. You are going to blow off even GT4's using all 6 speeds and great brakes. 400 true hp here. Then the car to put that hp into action. Tarett Cup LCA's, Ohlin R&T coilovers, Guard LSD, big 6 piston brake kit to start with. Monster light weight 18" wheels 9 in f and 10.5 in r and slicks of some sort or RE71RS if you are driving on the street. Call Slakker Racing and ask for Brandon. Tell him you want to be like Randy at VIR in a 4.1 Slakker car. He can help you out.

Thanks for posting that Apex. That’s an amazing result with that car. And he did that with a passenger. I imagine he would get another 5 mph driving alone.