advice please

It won't be the MAF. If it just died suddenly, and you can't crank it, it almost sounds like the immobiliser has cut in. The carpet under the passenger seat didn't get wet did it? You are correct that you will need a Porsche tester to diagnose it though.

Well after all my hard work getting the porsche shining....took it for a drive this morning and to my horror i've lost all power. Only got a mile and a half from home. Have abandoned it in a local pub car park. Urgent advice required!!!! I have recently replaced my alternator and battery. Car with ignition key in reads slightly above 12volts, indicators and blower working as per normal. There is absolutely no sound at all when turning the ignition key. All dashboard lights come on when ignition key is inserted. Any thoughts please....could the MAF be a strong possibility? Does anyone live near Cannock who has a tester or have one that i can purchase. Would really like to get my car home soon. May be a good reason to purchase some breakdown cover in future but as i had a reliable 944 didn't think i would need it!! Thanks..

Richard, whilst the carpet was wet it did not reach beyond the lip under the passenger seat and therefore i assumed it was caught before reaching the said unit, however it may well be that i am wrong. The immobiliser does sound about right as everything else works. Does this have to be reset or dealt with at a dealer or can i possibly dry out with a hairdryer. Clutching at straws here, but if there is any chance of getting it going for a mile and a half to home at least it would be great!!!

As another thought Richard....is it possible to bypass the immobiliser with any actions from the key or by possibly disconnecting the battery terminals for a few seconds. Thanks If its a stupid question i apologise in advance

No, you can't bypass the immobiliser - that's it's purpose!! I have a horrible feeling that the alarm control module has got wet from the earlier episode of the leak, and if it has then it is likely to be toast. Sometimes they can be salvaged by removing the lid and drying it out, but 9 times out of 10 its a goner.

Many thanks Richard for your quick response. If i tow it home and remove the passenger seat, (i assume this will be easy) is it easy to recognise the said unit to have a go at drying out, ie is it stand alone. If not, any ideas on cost issues!!! Many thanks again. ps Towing will have to be late tonight so as not to be seen!!!

I had a similar problem in the south of France a couple of years ago, power cut out whilst driving along. was stuck in the middle of know where, lucky was only 45 min from my folks place and the old man towed me to safety, to the amusement of many french folk. Anyway turned out to be the Fuel pump, which even surprised the guy in the most unpleasent looking back street garage who fixed it, and was a top man. Would be intrested to hear how you get on. Phil

Did you get absolutely nothing from the ignition....ie no noise at all when you turn the key??

Good point engine would turn over just no go. Good luck

Richard if you are still online wonder if im on the right tracks.... Been on the porsche parts catalogue and although mine is 98' the catalogue for 05' car shows part number 996 618 260 06 as the control unit for immobiliser, central locking system and alarm system....there is also a part number of 999 607 064 00 which mentions a 15a fuse. As ive got no car at the moment to drive i would like to ask; 1. Does this mean that if the control unit houses the immobiliser, central locking and alarm and the latter two work...would this eliminate the immobiliser possibly being the problem, or 2. Could it be that there is a fuse in this unit Anyone throw any light on this as i can't really do anything manual tonight so thought i'd delve into some technical questions albeit probably miles off the point. thanks

Fuse B8 is for the alarm and engine ECU. If you pull it, it usually sets off the alarm siren. If you car locks and unlocks via remote, then I don;t think it is the fuse. The immobiliser circuit is built in to the alarm module, and if it has got wet part of the module might work, but not all. You'll be able to see the module by sliding the seat all the way forward. If you need to remove the seat, you'll need an E12 Torx Star Socket. 4 screws and it comes out easily - it's the plug underneath which is tricky to disconnect. You have to slide the housing sideways for it to come apart. I think you are correct that there is a fuse in/on the module itself. If everything is dry under there, it would be worth checking. I guess it might also be one of the relays behind the rear seats (another area that got wet). The DME relay, which is in position 1 on the relay carrier (top left). Switch it for relay 2, to see if it will crank. (It might not run though). Alarm control unit: 996.618.260.06 - £226.59+VAT (plus it will need programming). DME Relay: 141.951.253.B - £10.21+VAT

Thanks Richard....will have a closer look tomorrow. Have just been out and towed it home. Have had a good look and feel under the passengers seat and it looks bone dry. However, there are some stains on the metal cover plate behind the rear passengers seat on the sort of parcel shelf. I will take this cover off and have a good look as the stains indicate that this may well be the area that got wet. Many thanks for your support again, lets hope tomorrow brings out the cheaper option. David

Todays lack of success. 1. Took out rear carpet shelf...swapped over relays 1 and 2...no luck even though my fingers were crossed. 2. Removed passenger seat...removed control unit....removed and checked 15 amp fuse connected to back of unit....opened unit up...dry and clean inside. Placed everything back....no luck. Don't think i have any more options but to have the car towed somewhere and fixed. Mind you i'm learning a lot about the car through these posts. Unless anyone has any other thoughts!!! Many thanks again though Richard....is there anything that we could have missed??? Gone to have a sulk in the bath now.

Do you have another key you could try? They have an immobiliser pill in them, and although I've never heard of one going bad it is always possible. Other than that, I think you'll need to get a diagnostic check done which (hopefully) will reveal what's going on.

No....unfortunately when i bought the car 4 years ago i was only given 1 key with electronics in and 1 key blank. The electronics went wrong in the original key about a year ago and had to order another which then had to be programmed, this was a fault with the key electronics not talking to the alarm system. The immobiliser pin inside does tend to go a funny colour, sort of green coating on the inside of the glass. I assume this is normal!!! As an afterthought would removing fuse C1 or C2 be worth trying to see if they are broke or would this cause more problems? I will try to phone porsche tomorrow and ask if there is a way of testing the immobiliser pin without the car present. Thanks again ps Thinking about it all....even if the units arent wet, how long does the control unit in these cars tend to last. Mine has done 91k. Just a thought

It is certainly worth checking C1 and C2, and wouldn't cause any other problems. Is there not a decent indy in your area?

I've had something nagging at the back of my mind for a couple of days, and it has finally cone round the loop. There was a chap on another forum who had a similar problem in that it was blowing fuse C1 and the engine would die. In his case, he tracked it down to chafed wiring to the variocam solenoid, which was sporadically shorting and blowing the fuse. So another reason to check C1 (and C2).

Richard....are we getting somewhere. Been working all weekend so still havent had a chance to ring porsche and will look round to see if a good indie exists. However....after all that work FUSE C1 WAS BLOWN. I have replaced the fuse with another one, tried to start the car but nothing. However, upon checking the new fuse, this had also blown so maybe we have the answer, something is shorting it out maybe!!!! The only jobs i have done on the car is; 1. alternator change plus battery 2. track rod ends Is there something near these that could have been knocked etc. I dont know where the variocam solenoid is?? Are we getting closer do you think? Any ideas on what to do next, David

If it keeps blowing C1 then that's definitely your problem. When you changed the alternator you would have removed the airbox and MAF sensor, and the vacuum changeover valve. It would be worth checking those two plugs. The variocam solenoids are on the cylinder heads, so you shouldn't have disturbed them, but a short is occurring somewhere, which is causing the fuse to blow. It is all pretty tight in there, so it's difficult to see much from the top (and not much better from underneath). All you can do is look for something obvious, and then maybe pass it to the professionals. Unfortunately I don't know any specialists in the Cannock area - maybe someone else can chime in here.

Will strip down again to see if any wires seem a little worn. However, everything has been ok since i fitted the alternator, trouble seems to have come just after it went in for an MOT. Probably just a coincidence as i don't think they would be having the boot lid up. Hopefully once i have removed the airbox and electrical fittings who knows i may come across a wire with worn insulation. I will let you know how i get on. David. ps You are right about a close indie, dont think there is one. Was also with PCGB when in Surrey as i enjoyed the monthly meetings and trips organised by them and only lived 5 miles from their meeting place. However, nearest PCGB to Cannock is over 45 miles away so didnt renew membership. I miss the events but find travelling this distance every month after work would be really difficult.

Porscheshop in Halesowen is probably the nearest specialist so not exactly local. Never used them myself (I had a BMW when I lived on the Chase) but they seem to be mentioned reasonably regularly.

Thanks John....at the moment i'm not finding a lot of time as i'm back busy at work but will look them up this weekend to assess the distance etc.

Hi Richard....removed the air box again last night and played around with all the electrical connectors i could find in the rear engine space, ie just disconnected and then reconnected them. Followed each electrical line as far as i could and did not discover any loose wires or worn insulation anywhere. Anyway, once i had refitted everything i decided to jack the rear of the car up (passengers side). I've now discovered where my vario-cam is. The unit seems to have a braided wire running to a fitting which seems to be held on with 2 bolts. The outside coating seemed a little brittle and slightly crumbled away leaving what i think is about half the braiding at the connecting point. I followed this wire which then seems to go into another fitting on the engine,(maybe the variocam solenoid, or is the photo itself the variocam solenoid??). Not sure how this connects or disconnects etc but seems very solid. A long shot i know but do you think that this slightly corroded wire could have caused the problem and if so do you know how the other end etc can be disconnected and replaced. About a week or so before the problem there was on the very odd occasion, moments when the revs would vary when idling, but this was not very often. Many thanks, David

Hello there The most local Indi to you could be, CMS in Telford, there good,and keep loads of spares too.01952 608911, give them a bell. cheers Andy

That doesn't look like the Variocam solenoid, but it does look suspect, whatever it is. The v/c solenoid has a coil which is screwed to the cam cover, and has a plug as shown in the attachment. Edit: After reading your post again, the lumpy idle sounds very much like a variocam solenoid. If the wires are intact, perhaps the coil has shorted out inside.

Hi Richard, still not got round to looking into this as busy last weekend and a damn cold this weekend. Anyway, placed another fuse into C1, turned ignition to on but not fully, just to see if fuse would blow. Everything was ok. Turned fully to start car and it did, but only ran for about 20 seconds, quite lumpy, then heard fuse blow. Does the fact that it started now eliminate the immobiliser and computer under the passenger seat, albeit only for 20 secs ? Funny that it started for just a short while!!! I am going to re look at the wire i photographed hopefully again mid week. David E

Sorry, once again as i typed my last message thought what the hell and got under the car again. Took another photo Richard. The fiitting photographed earlier may have been too close for you to see. I have taken a shot further out. Here you can see this fitting fastened to the side of the variocam unit. This is why i thought it maybe the variocam solenoid. Looks a little like your picture, if you look closely you can see the words variocam. Do you think i am ok removing the bolts and replacing as the wire is not that brilliant. Could this be the issue?? The photo was taken lying under the car just behind the wheel facing inwards and up. Cheers

Edited: I think that is the Variocam solenoid. Something is shorting out, which is blowing the fuse, but I can't say it is the solenoid for sure - it is just that someone else had it happen. If you trace the wire back, you should find a connector a few inches back. Try disconnecting it to see if it stops blowing a fuse. Remember there is one on the other bank too! If it started briefly, then you can rule out the immobiliser.

richard....disconnected the plug as stated and car started and continued to run. So it looks like this is the problem after all. however, once i had removed the 2 bolts the unit didnt want to come out. is it just stuck or do i have to unscrew the unit itself? can the unit also be tested off the car? only just found out from another post that your quoting £115 for the unit!!! thanks, David

I think you'll find it is just stuck. I would be very careful, and to be honest now that you have tracked down the problem I would be tempted to take it to an indy if I were you. The workshop manual says that you can only do it with the coil vertical (ie engine out of the car) so although I know it can be done with the engine in place, there might be a trick to it.