Emergency hood release

Having read numerous threads and posts about the dreaded dead battery and the inability to pop the frunk using the fuse box jump, I am exploring the possibility of running a battery cable paralleled to the positive terminal and positioning it somewhere in the front fascia possibly under the bumper or passenger wheel well. I would of course protect it with wire loom, a protective cap and conceal it from view and the elements. Should the battery die, I would only need to attach jumper cables to the remote post and frame and start the car. I’ve already sourced the parts and was looking for feedback/opinions/thoughts on the feasibility of this workaround. Any input would be welcome.

Chuck - take lots of pictures and notes. I see a good DIY article coming up.. grand idea IMHO!

What I did. https://www.planet-9.com/threads/dead-battery.246040/?post_id=2157400#post-2157400

Definitely a great idea, I like it. Maybe I’m overthinking this, but we all know Porsche ’s design leaves a lot to be desired and I’m calling up worst case scenarios, but ‘what if’, (one of my oft-used terms, due to my occupation) one has a dead battery, and there is a failure of the electric hood release mechanism. (Blown fuse) Even tapping into the electrical system to feed the latch won’t allow one to access the battery for a jump. I’m looking into a remote battery connection capable of jump starting the car in that extreme event. I’ve been sourcing the parts and with some #2 or #4 AWG cable, an in-line fuse capable of carrying the amperage draw of the starter, and remote battery terminals, one could actually jump start the car even if the frunk is not able to be opened. I’ve found an opening from the battery compartment to the wheel well, now just trying to decide on the best location to mount the remote terminal. The ones I’ve found come with protective covers and insulating mounts, so shorting shouldn’t be an issue, but in that event the fuse would prevent any consequential damage. This is a work in progress, (in my head) and I’m exploring all avenues.

[quote "From Google Search"] How many amps does it take to start a 6-cylinder engine? Minimum amps needed to start petrol cars They vary based on the number of cylinders. For example, a 4-cylinder car draws 200 amps, a 6-cylinder around 250 , and an 8-cylinder will draw about 300 amperes. [/quote] That is a very big fuse. But - Amazon to the rescue - a 300A resettable circuit breaker - just the thing.. https://a.co/d/fJZ8cWH <--Amazon Link OK - connectors at the battery: 300A rated Prime Day Deal: https://a.co/d/i6ruRoC - $30/pair Then the last and most difficult component is where the battery jumpers are hooked up to - to get power to the rest of these parts. Any ideas? And where to mount it so it's protected yet accessible? I think we're looking at something like this https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb350-350amp - I'm sure it's on Amazon, but a quick search didn't turn it up - so from the source... Then just a bit of 0 size wire and we got something going here..

We are thinking along the same lines. I saw the circuit breaker, put that in my cart, also. Just skeptical about some of these Amazon suppliers from the other side of the world, and their standards and longevity. I‘m thinking an old style fuse leaves less chance of an unwanted ‘trip’ of a breaker, although a breaker can be more easily reset. Read some old posts where someone indicated that the starter draw on a 987 is approximately 1.8kw, which comes out to about 150 amps, so 200 amps should do it, but 300 amp would leave a bigger cushion. Found this graphic online which makes me think the short wire run, under 4 ft, would allow #4 AWG, but with everything electrical, upsizing can’t hurt, so I’m thinking #2 AWG should be more than enough. As far as mounting, I’m still exploring that, but a cursory look under the passenger side wheel well seems to afford a few niches that could accommodate a remote terminal. Next step is to actually get it up on my Quick-Jacks, remove the wheel and get deeper into it. There are several styles of battery terminals to choose from, these are in my cart presently but I’m still not set on anything at this stage. I’m going to do some impedance tests to see if I can eliminate the grounding terminal, but a quick check with a cheap multimeter shows ground from the coil spring, brake dust shield, or possibly any part of the frame. Need to get some true numbers before going forward, but the research is ongoing and actually engaging my brain with old school math and physics. I appreciate your input and feedback, and definitely have an open mind to any and all suggestions. We may be onto something here which has been plaquing Porsche owners since day one. From what I’ve read, the last thing I want to do on the side of the road is jack up the car, remove the wheel liner and attempt to grasp the tiny two inch piece of emergency hood release cable, which is nearly impossible without a pair of Vise grips. And hope it‘s not dark, rainy or muddy. Keep your thoughts coming.

Prevention better than a cure? Wifi Car Battery Monitor

Those tenders and monitors are great, but I’m addressing the weakness in design where if you are on the side of the road and call AAA, and as we’ve seen before where people try using the fuse box connection to open the frunk to no avail, are unable to access the battery, or even worse, as all components may fail and being that the mechanism to open the frunk is a solenoid(?) type of actuator and IT fails, you are suck out of luck. Except for the extremely difficult to access emergency cable. Nearly all other vehicles have a manual handle release, Porsche didnt design our vehicles that way, making it a weak link in accessing the battery when most needed. On the side of a highway, miles from nowhere, bad weather, etc. I’m looking for a fail-safe solution that will eliminate that ***** in the armor. All the battery tenders and monitors will not help on the side of the highway with a dead battery and a failed frunk release. I hope to make my situation bulletproof.

I thank you, Drabbs, for your suggestion and info but this is exactly the reason I’m looking into this. This This actually appeared right below my post and in reading this poster’s frustrations, I’m seeking to avoid his headache.

Image didn’t load first time, here it is.

Image still not loading. Emergency Frunk Problem -- Battery to footwell fuse panel not working Search this topic and you’ll see many people reporting this same problem.