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YOUR RESEARCHTurbo Hunt
Leading reported evidence
Check electrical systems work, in particular have a good play
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Suggestion
Check all electrical systems work, in particular have a good play with PCM if fitted.
Leading evidence: 'Check electrical systems work, in particular have a good play' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check electrical systems work, in particular have a good play' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Also check for spurious boost pressure readings on dash guage
Check with piwis tester usually highlights any issues
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Suggestion
MAF sensor, a check with PIWIS tester usually highlights any issues
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Suggestion
Look on the bright side, the discs won't corrode and need replacing every two years or so.[
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Suggestion · Original poster
It is highly unlikely I will be using the car for tracking and therefore feel that any car with ceramic brakes will result in a very expensive wear and tear item that will not be used to its full potential.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It is highly unlikely I will be using the car for tracking and therefore feel that any car with ceramic brakes will result in a very expensive wear and tear item that will not be used to its full potential.
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Hi all,
I am looking to buy a 996 Turbo. I would really like as late a model as possible (2003 onwards) with under 40k miles. Most importantly, the beats must be manually controlled.
I am aware of the usual things to look for, that is:
- Tyre wear
- Brake and Disc wear
- Condition of the paintwork
Also, with a Turbo, I understand you als need to watch out for:
- Rads
- Over revving
What other things should I be looking for that are common issues with these cars ?
It is highly unlikely I will be using the car for tracking and therefore feel that any car with ceramic brakes will result in a very expensive wear and tear item that will not be used to its full potential. Is my thinking correct ?
Thanks.
When I searched for mine I bore in mind what somebody on here said - that is:
In addition to checks common to any car, ie, vin numbers, hpi, history/invoices, accident damage, panel gaps, discs/pads tyres, fluid leaks etc etc usual suspects include:-
corroded water rads
corroded/leaky air-con condensors
MAF sensor, a check with PIWIS tester usually highlights any issues
Sticking wastegates/actuator rods
Loose heat shields, exhaust and turbos
dodgy N75 boost control valve, again should show up when codes are read
Clutch operation/accumulator,
Also check for spurious boost pressure readings on dash guage
Check all electrical systems work, in particular have a good play with PCM if fitted.
Enjoy the search
That was my understanding too. i.e. ceramics will last 100K if _not_ used on track. i.e. they are good for day-to-day driving where you will benefit from the lower unsprung weight and they won't wear out.
Hmmm, might consider it. I wonder how difficult they would be to sell though as the miles pile on and may potentially need a very costly disc replacement
+1
Been very impressed with the ceramics on mine, a lot lighter coming from a C4S previously, very very faint squeel at low speeds i.e. queueing in traffic when cold but only with the window down. I wouldn't have noticed at all but selling OPC pointed it out to me[
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Also if worried about resale/depreciation you'd probably never buy any car, go on Spy take the plunge
Don't get too worked up about the brakes. A lot of people remove the ceramics and replace them with iron brakes anyway. I have Alcons on mine (also squeal occasionally at low speeds funnily enough) which the previous owner sorted out, not that it had ceramics in the first place.
Look on the bright side, the discs won't corrode and need replacing every two years or so.[
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when i say squeel its hardly noticable, indeed i didn't until pointed out, love the fact there's no brake dust too. no intentention of replacing them stopping power immense and as I don't do track days expecting them to last ample long enough.
hi guys
ceramics on mine are just a peach
you would have to bite my leg off to get rid of them
they also seem to get better once they warm up just immense stopping power but so controllable
certainly seemed that way on fast A and B roads in scotland
no comparison with the standard brakes on my c2 with which i was completely underwhelmed
i have done 35000 miles and the pads are barely 50% worn they occasional squeal so what
for a road car it is a no brainer if you can get gen2 or 3 and with appropriate checks on the discs etc for delamination
go for it
for the track however there are plenty of scare stories of brakes delaminating after 6 track days and it doesnt seem to matter what gen they are
the general consensus seems to be not letting the brakes cool down sufficently after use and at approx £2000 a corner expensive
but other companies are stepping in to the ring to produce discs System st and their agents Movit but development i believe not quite there yet but by the time i reckon i'll need new discs that will be sorted out and the price will be more reasonable[
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after my experience with them i certainly wouldnt let the presence of them put me off buying a turbo
it has already been mentioned before in copious threads but get a DME readout from the car you intend to buy in addition to all the usual mechanical and other checks
if you search you will find pearls of Richards wisdom on this and other subjects happy hunting
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