XPEL Clear Bra Removal

I wanted to start a new thread on this issue since I brought it up under a different thread called "Repaired hood emblem" and thought many of you may not see it. I am looking to remove my XPEL clear bra that is 10+ years old. So as to not go through all the details, you can read more on Posts #8 on in the following thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...od-emblem.html Attached area few pics of the condition of my clear bra and any and all comments are greatly appreciated.

I had my clearbra redone earlier this year. It took the guys at the shop a full week to get it off (Bumper, hood, fenders, rockers, behind the rear wheels, A-pillars, and front of roof). They did it with a heat gun and fingernails, one bit a a time. Newer clearmask should just lift up and peel off, but not this old sunbaked stuff. Fortunately I do quite a bit of business with them so they did not charge me for all the labor to get it off. So glad I did not tackle that job by myself.

Makes me wonder if I should do this myself? Anyone know of a reputable company in the Sacramento, CA area? Otherwise its just pick one from the yellow pages and live with the outcome, not my choice.

Do it yourself. I did mine with my wife's hairdryer. Just warm it up carefully and peel slowly, peeling the clear coating back on itself not 90 degrees to the painted surface. You'll then have to clean any glue residue, which is easy

Quotes source post: 14607073

Thanks for the response. How long had yours been on the car and was it XPEL? Did you use a particular adhesive remover?

I bet yours will come off a lot easier than mine by the looks of it. Mine was cracked so it came off in tiny pieces. A heatgun worked but steam did work better. My neighbor loaned me his wife's clothes steamer but unfortunately I wasn't able to borrow it long enough to get all that far with the steamer. Goof off worked removing the adhesive but 3m adhesive remover worked better along with microfiber towels. Just don't plan on trying to wash and reuse the towels-throw them out.

Quotes source post: 14607178

The picture you posted is the very reason I have thought about for removing mine. My clear bra material looks to be in good shape, just that its now 10 years old. I do have a tile and grout steamer, just worried about overheating the front plastic bumper.

I put on one of those rubber coated knit gloves and kept it close to the heat source. When the heat started to make my hand uncomfortable I backed off. Figured if it isn't burning my hand it isn't damaging the car.

Oh yeah I forgot the shop that did mine used a steamer, not a heat gun.

Quotes source post: 14607557

I'll second the steam method. I removed 20 year old stone guards from my 993 - very similar to the typical clear bra. This can be a major job. My experience is that this material and adhesive can be very, very stubborn once it gets to be a decade or two old. Even with heat and steam, the material will come off in very small pieces...also the adhesive can remain behind. Be mentally prepared for a long, labor intensive process either by you or your shop. If you are slow and take your time, be smart and careful, you can remove this stuff safely - but you'll have to be prepared for long tedious work. I would also be prepared for some minor paint correction once you get this stuff removed - removing adhesive from clear coat can be brutal.

Quotes source post: 14607922

I'll second that. I managed to get mine off without paint issues but the frunk alone took probably 3 hours and my hands hurt afterwords. The car looks good afterwords however and it was worth the effort.

Quotes source post: 14607557

A steamer is always the way to go. That's not to say that a heat gun wouldn't work, but we have seen heat guns get the film hot enough to make it even harder to remove. It's almost as if it bakes the adhesive into the paint. The worst thing that can happen from steaming the film is pruny fingers. Basic urethane films will typically crack like the pictures that koobs996 posted because they have no hard clear coat to protect the underlying film from UV. Are you planning on getting new PPF put on afterwards?

Quotes source post: 14606855

Professional removal of the film is recommended. However, when professional removal is not possible, the film may be removed as follows: Warm the film with a heat gun or hair dryer to loosen the adhesive. 170� is the recommended temperature for this process. Keep the heat source moving to avoid melting the film or damaging the paint. Peel one corner of the film up with your fingernail. Pull the film towards you at a shallow angle less than 45 degrees (see figure attached). This angle is important to ensure sure that the adhesive comes off with the film rather than staying on the paint. The film should �stretch� off the car. XPEL_Instructional.Car_.Graphic_Gray.jpg If any adhesive is left on the car, use a general adhesive remover to help loosen it. See our Paint Protection Film Frequently Asked Questions page for more info. Click here. We also hope that once the film is removed you will consider having brand new XPEL Paint Protection Film installed. Please let us know if we can answer any questions or help you locate an installer nearest you.

Quotes source post: 14608909

Who would you recommend in the Sacramento, CA area for removal? Depending on cost, I may need to wait for new install but if paint finish is still in great condition I do plan on new. Thanks

Be prepared for worst case too...paint may come off along with the film.

Quotes source post: 14608944

We actually have quite a few in your area. Click this link to see the Installer Locator for the Sacramento Area. Appearance Solutions just helped us out at an event in Monterey with the Porsche club and they do excellent work. - XPEL Installers near Sacramento, CA - We have seen countless installs and removals here at XPEL and judging by the photos you posted, it looks like you're in good shape and that the film may come off easily. At least easier than what it could be. As another forum member posted in the thread, old clear bra can look cracked and worn. Once it gets to that point is when it becomes extremely difficult to remove. Your film still looks intact and pretty smooth so it may come off easier. You could always try to remove the partial fender piece on your own using a steamer and if it comes off easy then you know could probably tackle the other body panels yourself. If it doesn't, then that's when you'll have your answer on if you should take it to a professional. When considering coverage for the next install, we typically don't do partial front end kits for sports cars anymore. Now that film is so readily available in 60" sheets, body panels can be done in one big piece. Our XPEL Pre-Cut kits will fit your Porsche perfectly as Porsche is our #1 most popular brand we protect worldwide. After protecting the full front end: full hood, full front fenders, front bumper, and side mirrors, a lot of owners will replace the factory film in front of the rear wheel (also known as the shark fin). The XPEL Pre-Cut Kit will cover more of that body panel to provide even better protection. Hope this helps, let us know if we can answer any other questions.

Quotes source post: 14608944

If you are interested in the 3M Pro Series, we have many certified installers in California. You can click the dealer locator below to find one easily. All 3M Certified Installers will be able to offer you not only the 10 year warranty but also the 5 year service agreement. 3M is the only company offering a service agreement that covers the paint underneath the film. If a rock actually manages to get through the film, 3M will pay up to $3,500 per incident to remove the damaged film, repair the damaged area and install new film, and it covers used cars as well as new. Check out the dealer locator to find an installer. http://www.3m.com/ppf-findadealer

Quotes source post: 14608996

Paint will only come off if either the paint isn't adhering to the primer underneath or the paint is damaged from a rock getting through the film, which weakens the paint's overall integrity. We have seen cases where the clearcoat separates from the basecoat, but these instances are rare and are usually caused by one of the previously mentioned reasons. The most common issues we see are body shop repairs and repaints that weren't prepped properly. Just use a steamer and go slow.

XPEL, Thanks for the information

QATD, Thanks for the information

My pleasure! We are excited to be here and to be part of the discussion. There are a ton of buzzwords out there and a TON of misinformation. To be honest, most of the public has never heard of paint protection film or the word clear bra. We are not here to give you any "corporate" rhetoric. First and foremost we are car guys. We're all installers. So we can give you our advice and info as the "guy on the street", so to speak. We just happen to carry some awesome products too. If you have any questions whatsoever, please let us know.

Quotes source posts: 14609230, 14609264

Happy to help. Welcome to Rennlist, we're happy to have more people that can help spread accurate information about paint protection.

I spent some more time removing film today. The vertical parts of the car that haven't received much sun were not cracked and came off pretty easily and in fairly large pieces. Gentle use of the heat gun made pretty easy work of it and the paint is undamaged. I suspect removing yours will not be too bad.

Quotes source post: 14607113

It was the old 3M film and had been on my car for 6 yrs. A little bit of Goo Gone removed any excess glue residue. Its probably better to remove it in a warm location.

Thanks for all the responses and although I have not made my final decision on if I will attempt to remove it or have someone with experience do it, I welcome comments from others who have removed their clear bra themselves. I have reached out to a company (that was on XPEL's approved applicators list) in my area and got a cost of between $1600 - $1800 to remove all of existing materials. do a paint correction and install XPEL's new product over entire front of car, side mirrors and behind rear wheels on fenders. This price does not seem to be to bad. Anyone else recently have this perform? If so, would like to know if price seems good. Thanks